Re: Stus-List Replacing forward hatch on 29-1

[svpegasus38]

I replaced the fwd hatch on Pegasus with a Lewmar Ocean series flat bottom 
no flange. I did have to fill the old screw holes. But the finished product was 
worth the effort. My head is now dry when it rains at night. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 #4just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Ian Matthew via CnC-List Date: Mon, Jun 27, 
2016 18:08To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Ian Matthew;Subject:Stus-List Replacing 
forward hatch on 29-1
Has anyone replaced the forward hatch, in particular on a C&C 29?
I have replaced the lens on mine and it is cracked again because the frame is 
not true. I am thinking of replacing it with either a Lewmar Ocean series 60 
(flat base) or a medium profile 60. The latter has a flange base which will 
require me to open up the opening a little. 
I would love input from anyone who has experience doing this. I think the 
medium profile would look better and still be strong enough to support my 
bowman but the ocean series will be an easier job. 
Thanks
Ian MatthewC&C 39-1. "Siento el Viento"San Francisco Bay

-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"  C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco BaySent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile


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Re: Stus-List Replacing forward hatch on 29-1

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Ian,

I haven’t mounted it yet because the decks have to be painted first but I’m 
replacing my forward Atkins & Hoyle hatch with an Ocean 60. I’ve done a quick 
dry fit it and it will be an easy job. I’m partial to the Ocean series both 
from a “looks” point of view and overall ruggedness.

FWIW, I bought my hatch from a fellow lister, Fred Street.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Jun 27, 2016, at 9:07 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Has anyone replaced the forward hatch, in particular on a C&C 29?
> 
> I have replaced the lens on mine and it is cracked again because the frame is 
> not true. I am thinking of replacing it with either a Lewmar Ocean series 60 
> (flat base) or a medium profile 60. The latter has a flange base which will 
> require me to open up the opening a little. 
> 
> I would love input from anyone who has experience doing this. I think the 
> medium profile would look better and still be strong enough to support my 
> bowman but the ocean series will be an easier job. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ian Matthew
> C&C 39-1. "Siento el Viento"
> San Francisco Bay
> 
> 
> -- 
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
> San Francisco Bay
> Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Replacing forward hatch on 29-1

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Ian,

We have replaced all 3 opening hatches on Perception with Lewmars with no 
flange. The Lewmars actually match the radius of the corners in the openings 
better than the Bomars we removed. If memory serves the forward hatch was a 60. 
We used the Ocean Series as I liked the taller profile especially on the 
forward hatch on the 33-2 which has the forward edge at deck level.

Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ian Matthew 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 9:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ian Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Replacing forward hatch on 29-1

Has anyone replaced the forward hatch, in particular on a C&C 29?

I have replaced the lens on mine and it is cracked again because the frame is 
not true. I am thinking of replacing it with either a Lewmar Ocean series 60 
(flat base) or a medium profile 60. The latter has a flange base which will 
require me to open up the opening a little.

I would love input from anyone who has experience doing this. I think the 
medium profile would look better and still be strong enough to support my 
bowman but the ocean series will be an easier job.

Thanks

Ian Matthew
C&C 39-1. "Siento el Viento"
San Francisco Bay


--
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List]

Hello Paul,
I had cut the extension cable for my RAM3 remote mic and re-spliced it without 
any issue. I did not used butt crimp, but soldered and shrink wrap each 
individual wire. I tried to keep enough shield braid to cover the splicing 
section. Of course, I cut the VHF end of the cable so splice would be in a more 
environmental control space.
Pierre TremblayAvalanche #54988C&C38-3 WK, hull #76 

Le mardi 28 juin 2016 1h03, paul.hood via CnC-List  
a écrit :
 

 Im trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter and 
alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory and told by Standard 
Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal Guard rail 
is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for recommendations. Do I1) make huge elongated 
holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring through guard into cockpit floor 
(7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. of guard)2) come up through pedestal instead 
and drill a hole in the backside of pedestal.  3) cut wire ends off and 
reconnect after bring them through a smaller hole on either the guard or 
pedestal


Paul Hood81 C&C34

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Re: Stus-List Rudder shaft collar for 35-3

[Corky Scott via CnC-List]

Hello, I m Corky Scott, have a 68. 39'7" c&c with a locked up rudder bearing 
made of bronze. Having to cut the bearing away to remove rudder so I can 
replace it. Would love to see how you are installing your rudder works and what 
type of bearing  you are using. Please send pics if you can. Thanks CS

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 26, 2016, at 7:17 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Both are rated for salt water use, and are reasonably hard.
> The aluminum bronze (954) should wear better, but you won't wear it out 
> whichever of those alloys you choose.  
> I would go with the one that is easiest to obtain.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> - Original Message -
> From: tom via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: tom
> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2016 13:44
> Subject: Stus-List Rudder shaft collar for 35-3
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Having not found a replacement, we are fabricating a new rudder shaft collar 
> at a local machine shop for our C&C 35-3.
> What bronze alloy material to use comes to question  It has been narrowed to 
> 2 different alloys, either #954 or #655.
> Does anyone know what the original material was, or can comment on these 
> bronze alloys for use as a rudder shaft collar?
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom Oryniak
> New Jersey
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Paul — what transducer are you running, and for which chart plotter?  
Generally, depth transducers should NOT be cut, as it can affect their 
performance depending on the skill of the person doing the reattaching.  But 
impedance is critical to the frequencies being used, so a cut-and-splice can be 
dicey.

Speedos are fine to cut and splice; and as Pierre mentioned, the RAM mic lead 
can also be carefully cut and spliced.

Is it a possibility for you to change out your pedestal guard for a 1-1/4” 
guard?  You’ll need to replace the guard feet and the topple on your pedestal; 
but in the end, it may be a much better option.

By the way, if you pull the RAM cable the other way (from pedestal to the 
radio, instead of vice versa), the connector at the radio end is much smaller 
than the connector at the mic end…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 28, 2016, at 12:02 AM, paul.hood via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> m trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter and 
> alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory and told by 
> Standard Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal 
> Guard rail is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for recommendations. Do I
> 1) make huge elongated holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring through 
> guard into cockpit floor (7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. of guard)
> 2) come up through pedestal instead and drill a hole in the backside of 
> pedestal.  
> 3) cut wire ends off and reconnect after bring them through a smaller hole on 
> either the guard or pedestal
> 
> 
> 
> Paul Hood
> 81 C&C34

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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

That should have been, “top plate."

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 28, 2016, at 7:33 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> the topple on your pedestal

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Re: Stus-List Touche' Gulfport Pensacola Race recap

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Dennis — congrats!  Now I owe you a Hurricane back…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 26, 2016, at 7:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> In short, it was slow and hot.  I also had crew cancellations.  We raced with 
> the Admiral and 2 others.  In retrospect, sailing with 4 was advantageous due 
> to the light winds.
> 
> We were 1st in non-spinnaker, about 1 hour 9 minutes corrected over second 
> place.
> 
> We had really good upwind performance rounding the Gulfport sea buoy 17th.  
> Not bad since 13 of the boats started 10 minutes before us and 2 that started 
> with us rated faster.  One boat rated 3 seconds faster rounded about 3 
> seconds ahead of us.  We had a very close crossing with that boat earlier 
> well down the course but north of Ship Island.  I think we just didn't sail 
> the current around the island as well as they did.
> 
> For any who tracked us during the race and watched a lot of boats sail past 
> us after the sea buoy, we were sailing non-spinnaker.  The spin boats all 
> popped chutes at the buoy and took off.  We hung with a lot of them well down 
> the course.
> 
> After the buoy, it was a nice reach for 40 miles to the Mobile sea buoy.  The 
> evening was warm but beautiful with a 2/3 moon rising a bit after 11pm.  It 
> was hard to remember we were racing and not just out for a pleasant night 
> sail.  After the Mobile sea buoy, we had to sail wing on wing for 40+ miles 
> to the finish.  I hadn't brought the whisker pole so we poled out the genoa 
> with the spin pole.  Since the spin pole is quite a bit shorter than the spin 
> pole and the winds were so light, the genoa wouldn't hold any decent shape.  
> We furled the genoa a bit to improve the shape.  Unusual technique but it 
> helped.  The winds continued to lighten for the rest of the race.  We saw 
> speed through water as low as 1.5 knots for much of the last 40 miles.  
> Fortunately there was a favorable current.  Reviewing the tracking data, the 
> lowest was 1.97 with several observations under 2.1 knots for the last 20 
> miles.  It was really HOT!
> 
> We pretty much had our class tucked away prior after the 17 mile upwind 
> portion but strange things can happen during the night.  We could easily see 
> the closest non-pin boat to us because they had really bright running lights. 
>  It also helped that they had AIS and left it on.  We were able to see if 
> they gained any speed so we'd know they either had gotten fresh breeze or had 
> decided to drop out and motor.  :)
> 
> One last observation.  Once we passed the Mobile sea buoy 60 miles down 
> course with 40 to go, we used a cell phone hot spot and a tablet to check the 
> race fleet.  That was cool.  We could see the fleet and that we were well 
> ahead in our class.  I like technology.
> 
> Now back to cruising.  Next weekend, Fourth of July fireworks at Pensacola 
> Beach!!
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I just went through a similar dilemma...

After many hours of consideration, and encouragement from Fred street, 
the final solution was to replace the guard, feet and top plate.  It 
wasn't cheap but it is a permanent, professional looking solution and 
leaves no holes in the guard and absolutely no exposed wired in the 
cockpit.  I'm glad I did it in the end. as for the work involved, it was 
strait forward deck fitting work.  gouge out existing holes and fill 
with epoxy, over-drill new holes, and gouge out and fill, and re-drill.  
I fit and cut the holes in the guard and pod at home with a dremel, also 
Fred's guidance on technique.  With the 1-1/4 inch guard you have plenty 
of room for the holes to accommodate the wire.


Danny


On 6/28/2016 8:33 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Paul — what transducer are you running, and for which chart plotter? 
 Generally, depth transducers should NOT be cut, as it can affect 
their performance depending on the skill of the person doing the 
reattaching.  But impedance is critical to the frequencies being used, 
so a cut-and-splice can be dicey.


Speedos are fine to cut and splice; and as Pierre mentioned, the RAM 
mic lead can also be carefully cut and spliced.


Is it a possibility for you to change out your pedestal guard for a 
1-1/4” guard?  You’ll need to replace the guard feet and the topple on 
your pedestal; but in the end, it may be a much better option.


By the way, if you pull the RAM cable the other way (from pedestal to 
the radio, instead of vice versa), the connector at the radio end is 
much smaller than the connector at the mic end…


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jun 28, 2016, at 12:02 AM, paul.hood via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


m trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart 
plotter and alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory 
and told by Standard Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" 
diameter each Pedestal Guard rail is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for 
recommendations. Do I
1) make huge elongated holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring 
through guard into cockpit floor (7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. 
of guard)
2) come up through pedestal instead and drill a hole in the backside 
of pedestal.
3) cut wire ends off and reconnect after bring them through a smaller 
hole on either the guard or pedestal




Paul Hood
81 C&C34




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Re: Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C&C 34)

[Chris Duer via CnC-List]

My 1978 C&C 34 (#117) is the same.  The bulkheads are tabbed to the hull.  The 
headliner is glued to the deck before landing the deck to the hull.  There was 
some (loosely) adhesive applied at the top of the bulkheads, but it is really 
meant to "float" against the deck.  Most of the time the squeaking you hear is 
the bulkhead rubbing against the headliner.  If yours is like mine, the 
clearance between the bulkheads and the headliner is pretty tight.
To keep the deck from flexing too much, there are several mechanical 
attachments, as others have noted.
1. The mast tangs connecting the mast to the partners2. A T-fitting bolted 
through the deck and to the starboard main bulkhead3. Wire shroud at the 
forward end of the head bulkhead on centerline.  This is attached to the 
forward end of the keel grid and then through the deck and babystay track.  It 
should have a turnbuckle at the bottom to tension.
I actually don't have as much movement as your pictures show, but I do have a 
little.
Have fun sailing!
Chris DuerMorning ViewC&C 34 #117
https://www.facebook.com/MorningViewSailing/





 

On Monday, June 27, 2016 9:02 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 #yiv9108662662 body{font-family:Helvetica, Arial;font-size:13px;}This is good 
to hear! One other spot we noticed was where the top of the engine compartment 
meets the bottom of the cockpit. Creaking happened there when we were headed 
upwind as well. Is this another area with “natural” flex for others?  
 -- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk ISeattle, WA 
On June 27, 2016 at 5:54:22 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
(cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote: 
Hi Andrew As near as we can tell, the upper bulkhead is not bonded to the deck 
– and for a reason.  C&C’s do flex a bit as they sail – especially as they bash 
to windward.  The lack of this bond allows this flex to happen – all well and 
good as the stresses are dispersed throughout the entire hull.  That said, the 
flex is moderated / controlled by a stainless “T” tang that is attached by 
bolts through the deck and also through the bulkhead.  Ours was leaking a bit 
which we fixed by rebedding in butyl.  Your photos seem to show a glue used to 
affix the head liner (not the deck) to the bulkhead has failed but do not think 
it is of great concern as was not structural in the first place.  Overall, a 
noteworthy observation of minimal consequence so go sailing and have some fun  
John and MaryannLegacy III1982 C&C 34Noank, CT From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Means via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 5:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means
Subject: Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C&C 34) Hey all -  Last 
week while S.V. Safari was bashing upwind offshore en route to Tofino BC I 
noticed that the forward bulkheads were creaking. Upon closer inspection I 
realized that they had separated entirely from the cabin top by moving inboard 
about 1.5cm. Here’s the port bulkhead: http://imgur.com/Meqa58IAnd here’s the 
starboard: http://imgur.com/MIZHoiG The ends of both bulkheads are prevented 
from moving farther inward by the termination of the slots in the fiberglass 
ceiling that they’re nested in. You can see in the photos that they were at one 
point glued in.  The bottoms of the bulkheads seem to be very well fiberglassed 
in to the hull, and there’s no sign of breakage along the lower parts. The 
bulkheads that form the forward walls of the hanging locker and bathroom are 
also separated too, by what looks like the same amount. Looking at previous 
photos it looks like they’ve been like this since before we bought the boat. 
They’re not loose at all, they seem very well set in place. Questions:1. Is 
this a common problem?2. How in the world would we fix this?3. How critical is 
it to fix this immediately? Were we courting disaster to push the boat hard 
offshore?  -- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk ISeattle, WA

|  | Virus-free. www.avast.com  |

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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Paul,

If your goal is to put the Ram mike close by at the helm, I’d advocate for a 
cockpit bulkhead mount rather than a helm mount.  The reason being is that 
inside every microphone/speaker happens to be an active magnet and the movement 
of that magnet tends to play havoc with compass headings.Now you may be 
like the myriad of boaters that barely glance at the compass and rely on the 
GPS at the helm, but if you are a compass user, I would set up a deviation 
table for the boat once the Ram mike is in place. Be aware that it will change 
when the speaker or the microphone is active and if you happen to move the mike 
around when sailing.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of paul.hood 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 1:03 AM
To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.hood 
Subject: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

 

Im trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter and 
alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory and told by Standard 
Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal Guard rail 
is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for recommendations. Do I

1) make huge elongated holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring through guard 
into cockpit floor (7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. of guard)

2) come up through pedestal instead and drill a hole in the backside of 
pedestal.  

3) cut wire ends off and reconnect after bring them through a smaller hole on 
either the guard or pedestal

 

 

 

Paul Hood

81 C&C34

 

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Re: Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C&C 34)

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Are the photos while underway or at the dock? If at rest you might want to
check the shroud and stay tension as you might be deforming the hull and
lifting the deck even before bashing to windward. That being said even our
38 Landfall will flex but only noticeable at the forward bulkhead where
neither top nor bottom are tabbed near the doorway.

Ed
Prime Interest
Toronto
On Jun 27, 2016 9:02 PM, "Andrew Means via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> This is good to hear! One other spot we noticed was where the top of the
> engine compartment meets the bottom of the cockpit. Creaking happened there
> when we were headed upwind as well. Is this another area with “natural”
> flex for others?
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> On June 27, 2016 at 5:54:22 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List (
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:
>
> Hi Andrew
>
>
>
> As near as we can tell, the upper bulkhead is not bonded to the deck – and
> for a reason.  C&C’s do flex a bit as they sail – especially as they bash
> to windward.  The lack of this bond allows this flex to happen – all well
> and good as the stresses are dispersed throughout the entire hull.  That
> said, the flex is moderated / controlled by a stainless “T” tang that is
> attached by bolts through the deck and also through the bulkhead.  Ours was
> leaking a bit which we fixed by rebedding in butyl.  Your photos seem to
> show a glue used to affix the head liner (not the deck) to the bulkhead has
> failed but do not think it is of great concern as was not structural in the
> first place.  Overall, a noteworthy observation of minimal consequence so
> go sailing and have some fun
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Andrew
> Means via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, June 27, 2016 5:15 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Means
> *Subject:* Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C&C 34)
>
>
>
> Hey all -
>
>
>
> Last week while S.V. Safari was bashing upwind offshore en route to Tofino
> BC I noticed that the forward bulkheads were creaking. Upon closer
> inspection I realized that they had separated entirely from the cabin top
> by moving inboard about 1.5cm.
>
>
>
> Here’s the port bulkhead: http://imgur.com/Meqa58I
>
> And here’s the starboard: http://imgur.com/MIZHoiG
>
>
>
> The ends of both bulkheads are prevented from moving farther inward by the
> termination of the slots in the fiberglass ceiling that they’re nested in.
> You can see in the photos that they were at one point glued in.
>
>
>
> The bottoms of the bulkheads seem to be very well fiberglassed in to the
> hull, and there’s no sign of breakage along the lower parts. The bulkheads
> that form the forward walls of the hanging locker and bathroom are also
> separated too, by what looks like the same amount.
>
>
>
> Looking at previous photos it looks like they’ve been like this since
> before we bought the boat. They’re not loose at all, they seem very well
> set in place.
>
>
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. Is this a common problem?
>
> 2. How in the world would we fix this?
>
> 3. How critical is it to fix this immediately? Were we courting disaster
> to push the boat hard offshore?
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
>
> Seattle, WA
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Paul,

As Fred said, you can try running the wires the other way. I did that for a 
different chartplotter (Garmin), so the connectors were smaller (about 1/2” if 
I recall), but I found it easier to run the cable from the pedestal end into 
the inside of the boat (rather than the other way around).

With a large connector, you will have to cut an elongated hole, even in a 
larger diameter guard, because the connector would not bend. 

Drilling through the SS pedestal guard is a pain. You better have good tools 
and know how to do that (in one word – slow). A good hole saw (e.g. Milwaukee 
bi-metal (https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/accessories/drilling/49-56-9662)) and a 
tungsten cutter (e.g. 
https://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9901) 
would be your friends (and a good investment).

And if you have some wires running through the guard already, be prepared that 
the holes were drilled without being properly filled with epoxy.

I would not cut the wires for the depth transducer.

good luck

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: paul.hood via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 01:03
To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: paul.hood 
Subject: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

Im trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter and 
alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory and told by Standard 
Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal Guard rail 
is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for recommendations. Do I
1) make huge elongated holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring through guard 
into cockpit floor (7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. of guard)
2) come up through pedestal instead and drill a hole in the backside of 
pedestal.  
3) cut wire ends off and reconnect after bring them through a smaller hole on 
either the guard or pedestal



Paul Hood
81 C&C34
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Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

About cutting and splicing transducer wiring: It depends.

Conventional transducers required specific lengths of cable for impedance.  
Newer nmea 2000 compliant transducers typically don't.  

When I rewired the instruments with a "whole boat" nmea 2000 backbone I 
researched it pretty extensively as multiple splices were required for a fully 
concealed install.  The bottom line was that the nmea 2000 setup is very 
tolerant of splices as long as they are done right with proper moisture proof 
crimped connectors. 


Best bet is to download / double check the manufacturer recommendation on your 
equipment. 

Good luck

-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA 

Sent from IBM Verse
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Dave via CnC-List]

Just did this for N2k cables in std small guard.   I drilled with regular has 
bits but centre punched and piloted first (1/8") - slow speed did not work 
well.  Then drilled final hole size (two adjacent for oval) and cleaned up with 
a conical stone on a dremel.

Dave 
Windstar 1985 33-2
> 
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Pedestal wiring (Marek Dziedzic)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2016 11:58:00 -0400
> From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Paul,
> 
> As Fred said, you can try running the wires the other way. I did that for a 
> different chartplotter (Garmin), so the connectors were smaller (about 1/2? 
> if I recall), but I found it easier to run the cable from the pedestal end 
> into the inside of the boat (rather than the other way around).
> 
> With a large connector, you will have to cut an elongated hole, even in a 
> larger diameter guard, because the connector would not bend. 
> 
> Drilling through the SS pedestal guard is a pain. You better have good tools 
> and know how to do that (in one word ? slow). A good hole saw (e.g. Milwaukee 
> bi-metal (https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/accessories/drilling/49-56-9662)) and 
> a tungsten cutter (e.g. 
> https://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9901) 
> would be your friends (and a good investment).
> 
> And if you have some wires running through the guard already, be prepared 
> that the holes were drilled without being properly filled with epoxy.
> 
> I would not cut the wires for the depth transducer.
> 
> good luck
> 
> Marek
> 1994 C270 ?Legato?
> Ottawa, ON
> 
> **

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 161

[paul.hood via CnC-List]

I find it interesting that nobody mentioned going through the pedestal.   To be 
honest I was very hesitant about going that direction for various reasons. I 
was using the small end for feeding on all given cables. Depending on which 
cable, they are still 3/4 and 7/8 at the smallest ends. Trandducer being the 
7/8.   I guess I'll need to upside the guard and wire through the guard.  
Thanks,Paul Hood416.799.5549 c
From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Paul,

As Fred said, you can try running the wires the other way. I did that for a 
different chartplotter (Garmin), so the connectors were smaller (about 1/2? if 
I recall), but I found it easier to run the cable from the pedestal end into 
the inside of the boat (rather than the other way around).

With a large connector, you will have to cut an elongated hole, even in a 
larger diameter guard, because the connector would not bend. 

Drilling through the SS pedestal guard is a pain. You better have good tools 
and know how to do that (in one word ? slow). A good hole saw (e.g. Milwaukee 
bi-metal (https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/accessories/drilling/49-56-9662)) and a 
tungsten cutter (e.g. 
https://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9901) 
would be your friends (and a good investment).

And if you have some wires running through the guard already, be prepared that 
the holes were drilled without being properly filled with epoxy.

I would not cut the wires for the depth transducer.

good luck

Marek
1994 C270 ?Legato?
Ottawa, ON

From: paul.hood via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 01:03
To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: paul.hood 
Subject: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

Im trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter and 
alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory and told by Standard 
Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal Guard rail 
is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for recommendations. Do I
1) make huge elongated holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring through guard 
into cockpit floor (7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. of guard)
2) come up through pedestal instead and drill a hole in the backside of 
pedestal.  
3) cut wire ends off and reconnect after bring them through a smaller hole on 
either the guard or pedestal



Paul Hood
81 C&C34
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I don’t use hole saws and the like; I’ve found a much better and faster way to 
do this.  Most pods like the Navpod series have basically a round hole for wire 
entry; but the pod itself covers a much larger area of the tubing.  As some of 
the connectors don’t turn a 90° angle when exiting the tubing, I’ve found it 
much easier to cut an elongated hole in the tubing without the pod mounted, 
pass all the wiring through that hole, THEN pass the wires into the pod and 
mount it.

The way I cut the hole is to use the cheap grinding wheels on my Handy Dremel 
Tool (to use Wal’s moniker…).  I make two angled cuts for the top and bottom of 
the hole, then cut straight sides, like in this drawing:

http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/Navpodcutout.pdf 


This makes it much easier to get all those connectors and wiring through the 
guard into a pod.  Also, make sure to pull the cables with the largest 
connectors first, so you don’t fill the guard tubing with lots of wires, then 
have to try to stuff a large connector through, too.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 28, 2016, at 10:58 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> With a large connector, you will have to cut an elongated hole, even in a 
> larger diameter guard, because the connector would not bend. 
>  
> Drilling through the SS pedestal guard is a pain. You better have good tools 
> and know how to do that (in one word – slow). A good hole saw (e.g. Milwaukee 
> bi-metal (https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/accessories/drilling/49-56-9662 
> )) and a 
> tungsten cutter (e.g. 
> https://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9901 
> ) 
> would be your friends (and a good investment).

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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Fred,

This is a very clever idea. One learns something new every day. I can go home 
now. Too bad that I read this this late in the day... 

Marek

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 14:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

I don’t use hole saws and the like; I’ve found a much better and faster way to 
do this.  Most pods like the Navpod series have basically a round hole for wire 
entry; but the pod itself covers a much larger area of the tubing.  As some of 
the connectors don’t turn a 90° angle when exiting the tubing, I’ve found it 
much easier to cut an elongated hole in the tubing without the pod mounted, 
pass all the wiring through that hole, THEN pass the wires into the pod and 
mount it. 

The way I cut the hole is to use the cheap grinding wheels on my Handy Dremel 
Tool (to use Wal’s moniker…).  I make two angled cuts for the top and bottom of 
the hole, then cut straight sides, like in this drawing:

http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/Navpodcutout.pdf

This makes it much easier to get all those connectors and wiring through the 
guard into a pod.  Also, make sure to pull the cables with the largest 
connectors first, so you don’t fill the guard tubing with lots of wires, then 
have to try to stuff a large connector through, too.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

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Stus-List Better race trackers?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

After watching a few regattas using race trackers, I was wondering which
trackers the list thinks work well.  My area seems to like Kattack.  The
issue I have with Kattack is it doesn't seem to allow you to look at
individual classes.  Several folks  asked me why Touche' looked so "bad"
after the sea buoy.  If watchers could have just looked at the
non-spinnaker fleet they would have seen we were well in front.

Watching Joel's Bermuda race was better because you can filter out the
classes you don't want to watch.  Makes it more relevant.

What trackers are good?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Allen Miles via CnC-List]

I mounted my Ram mike on the stern push pit rail mid way between the ladder opening and the turn on the starboard side. It's easy to fish one wire from the stern locker through the tubing. It's attached to a small box structure that accepts its clip.  It's easy to access, listen to calls, and, being hand held, it's far enough from the helm to not impact the compass.Allen MilesS/V Septima  C&C 30-2Hampton, VA-Original Message-
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Sent: Jun 28, 2016 9:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring






Paul,If your goal is to put the Ram mike close by at the helm, I’d advocate for a cockpit bulkhead mount rather than a helm mount.  The reason being is that inside every microphone/speaker happens to be an active magnet and the movement of that magnet tends to play havoc with compass headings.    Now you may be like the myriad of boaters that barely glance at the compass and rely on the GPS at the helm, but if you are a compass user, I would set up a deviation table for the boat once the Ram mike is in place. Be aware that it will change when the speaker or the microphone is active and if you happen to move the mike around when sailing.Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 LF 35Padanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of paul.hood via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 1:03 AMTo: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: paul.hood Subject: Stus-List Pedestal wiring Im trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter and alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory and told by Standard Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal Guard rail is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for recommendations. Do I1) make huge elongated holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring through guard into cockpit floor (7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. of guard)2) come up through pedestal instead and drill a hole in the backside of pedestal.  3) cut wire ends off and reconnect after bring them through a smaller hole on either the guard or pedestal   Paul Hood81 C&C34 

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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Installing a RAM mic on a 35-1 was easy.  Since the pedestal sits on top of
a bulkhead I put the RAM mic plug in the aft side of the bulkhead about
14-18 inches above the cockpit sole.  I installed a mic clip next to it.  I
installed another mic clip on the instrument pod above the compass.  There
is enough coiled cable to reach the pod.  It passes close by the shift
lever.

When I'm docking, etc. I move the RAM mic down to the lower clip out of the
way of the shift level.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 2:39 PM, Allen Miles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I mounted my Ram mike on the stern push pit rail mid way between the
> ladder opening and the turn on the starboard side. It's easy to fish one
> wire from the stern locker through the tubing. It's attached to a small box
> structure that accepts its clip.  It's easy to access, listen to calls,
> and, being hand held, it's far enough from the helm to not impact the
> compass.
>
> Allen Miles
> S/V Septima  C&C 30-2
> Hampton, VA
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
> Sent: Jun 28, 2016 9:35 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring
>
> Paul,
>
> If your goal is to put the Ram mike close by at the helm, I’d advocate for
> a cockpit bulkhead mount rather than a helm mount.  The reason being is
> that inside every microphone/speaker happens to be an active magnet and the
> movement of that magnet tends to play havoc with compass headings.Now
> you may be like the myriad of boaters that barely glance at the compass and
> rely on the GPS at the helm, but if you are a compass user, I would set up
> a deviation table for the boat once the Ram mike is in place. Be aware that
> it will change when the speaker or the microphone is active and if you
> happen to move the mike around when sailing.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 LF 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *paul.hood
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 28, 2016 1:03 AM
> *To:* cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* paul.hood 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Pedestal wiring
>
>
>
> Im trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter
> and alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory and told by
> Standard Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal
> Guard rail is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for recommendations. Do I
>
> 1) make huge elongated holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring through
> guard into cockpit floor (7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. of guard)
>
> 2) come up through pedestal instead and drill a hole in the backside of
> pedestal.
>
> 3) cut wire ends off and reconnect after bring them through a smaller hole
> on either the guard or pedestal
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Paul Hood
>
> 81 C&C34
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Better race trackers?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Two years ago we used the Spot as a cheaper alternative to YellowBrick.  I
think it also allowed filtering, but the Spots did not update when they
were supposed to on a number of boats, including mine.  YB was much more
reliable.  Also used YB for Annapolis Newport, and Newport Bermuda used it
too.  I don't know the pricing, but I've been told it is "expensive".

For Newport Bermuda, position reports were delayed 4 hours so competitors
had to make their own ​strategic decisions instead of following "that" boat.

Joel

On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 3:36 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> After watching a few regattas using race trackers, I was wondering which
> trackers the list thinks work well.  My area seems to like Kattack.  The
> issue I have with Kattack is it doesn't seem to allow you to look at
> individual classes.  Several folks  asked me why Touche' looked so "bad"
> after the sea buoy.  If watchers could have just looked at the
> non-spinnaker fleet they would have seen we were well in front.
>
> Watching Joel's Bermuda race was better because you can filter out the
> classes you don't want to watch.  Makes it more relevant.
>
> What trackers are good?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I’ll try to get to “idea” emails earlier in the day from now on…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 28, 2016, at 2:30 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred,
>  
> This is a very clever idea. One learns something new every day. I can go home 
> now. Too bad that I read this this late in the day... 
>  
> Marek

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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Okay, another interesting idea…

I sold a GX-2200 VHF and RAM3 mic to a friend for his Dufour 35.  He had built 
his own coaming box out of fiberglass and glassed it into the coaming as part 
of a cockpit repair/repaint project.  He mounted the connector for the RAM mic 
into the coaming box; and he got a small “exciter” like this: 
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DAEX25-Sound-Exciters/dp/B001EYEM8C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1467145231&sr=8-5&keywords=exciter
 
,
 glued it to the back of the coaming box and connected it to the aux speaker 
out connection on the RAM mic connector.  Now he gets VHF audio seemingly 
coming out of nowhere in the cockpit, and he has the RAM mic close at hand on 
the coaming.

Clever idea.  Not mine.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 28, 2016, at 2:39 PM, Allen Miles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I mounted my Ram mike on the stern push pit rail mid way between the ladder 
> opening and the turn on the starboard side. It's easy to fish one wire from 
> the stern locker through the tubing. It's attached to a small box structure 
> that accepts its clip.  It's easy to access, listen to calls, and, being hand 
> held, it's far enough from the helm to not impact the compass.
> 
> Allen Miles
> S/V Septima  C&C 30-2
> Hampton, VA

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Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

Brilliant thoughtful Fred!

Don

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Re: Stus-List Better race trackers?

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Pacific Cup uses YB. Vic-Maui too. You can replay past races and sort per
division and/or favorite boats. I am studying them to come up with a
winning routing strategy for this years race.

http://yb.tl/paccup14?ignoreUA=true

KD

On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 1:02 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Two years ago we used the Spot as a cheaper alternative to YellowBrick.  I
> think it also allowed filtering, but the Spots did not update when they
> were supposed to on a number of boats, including mine.  YB was much more
> reliable.  Also used YB for Annapolis Newport, and Newport Bermuda used it
> too.  I don't know the pricing, but I've been told it is "expensive".
>
> For Newport Bermuda, position reports were delayed 4 hours so competitors
> had to make their own ​strategic decisions instead of following "that" boat.
>
> Joel
>
> On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 3:36 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> After watching a few regattas using race trackers, I was wondering which
>> trackers the list thinks work well.  My area seems to like Kattack.  The
>> issue I have with Kattack is it doesn't seem to allow you to look at
>> individual classes.  Several folks  asked me why Touche' looked so "bad"
>> after the sea buoy.  If watchers could have just looked at the
>> non-spinnaker fleet they would have seen we were well in front.
>>
>> Watching Joel's Bermuda race was better because you can filter out the
>> classes you don't want to watch.  Makes it more relevant.
>>
>> What trackers are good?
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Better race trackers?

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Have a look at http://tracker.r2ak.com/. I'm not sure what software they
are using but I think it's using Spot tracks. It's the same tracking
software that the Royal Victoria Yacht Club uses for the Van Isle 360.
This is also a fabulous race if you don't know about it already.
http://r2ak.com/ 750 miles through mostly wilderness, cold tidal water with
huge currents, totally on your own. The only rule is you can't have a motor
- at all. At least one boat removed their motor to enter the race. Only two
checkpoints, to make sure you go up the inside of the island. First prize
is $10,000, second prize is a set of steak knives. That's it. Boats range
from a SUP (withdrew due to knee problems but was beating 2/3 of the fleet)
to an ORMA 60 tri (couldn't make the start because it fell apart off the
California coast).

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 28 June 2016 at 14:26, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  wrote:

> Pacific Cup uses YB. Vic-Maui too. You can replay past races and sort per
> division and/or favorite boats. I am studying them to come up with a
> winning routing strategy for this years race.
>
> http://yb.tl/paccup14?ignoreUA=true
>
> KD
>
> On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 1:02 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Two years ago we used the Spot as a cheaper alternative to YellowBrick.
>> I think it also allowed filtering, but the Spots did not update when they
>> were supposed to on a number of boats, including mine.  YB was much more
>> reliable.  Also used YB for Annapolis Newport, and Newport Bermuda used it
>> too.  I don't know the pricing, but I've been told it is "expensive".
>>
>> For Newport Bermuda, position reports were delayed 4 hours so competitors
>> had to make their own ​strategic decisions instead of following "that" boat.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 3:36 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> After watching a few regattas using race trackers, I was wondering which
>>> trackers the list thinks work well.  My area seems to like Kattack.  The
>>> issue I have with Kattack is it doesn't seem to allow you to look at
>>> individual classes.  Several folks  asked me why Touche' looked so "bad"
>>> after the sea buoy.  If watchers could have just looked at the
>>> non-spinnaker fleet they would have seen we were well in front.
>>>
>>> Watching Joel's Bermuda race was better because you can filter out the
>>> classes you don't want to watch.  Makes it more relevant.
>>>
>>> What trackers are good?
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Stu's 30 for selling again?

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

Sailboat, 1973 C&C 30

Very nicely tricked out 30 if this was his!


Don

Don Harben
Viking 34
Life
www.ncyc.ca

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Re: Stus-List Stu's 30 for selling again?

[Stu via CnC-List]

Yes – that was our dream boat for almost 15 years.

Stu

From: Don Harben via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 7:20 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Don Harben 
Subject: Stus-List Stu's 30 for selling again?

Sailboat, 1973 C&C 30


Very nicely tricked out 30 if this was his!


Don 


Don Harben
Viking 34
Life
http://mailtrack.me/tracking/raWzMz50paMkCGZjAGVjAwZ4ZGZzMKWjqzA2pzSaqaR9ZwH2ZGDjBGp1Way2LKu2pG05AmtkZwD0ZwVmZt




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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - 
http://mailtrack.me/tracking/raWzMz50paMkCGZjAGVjAwZ4ZGZzMKWjqzA2pzSaqaR9ZwH2ZGDjBGp1Way2LKu2pG05AmtkZwD0ZwV0AD
Version: 2016.0.7640 / Virus Database: 4613/12512 - Release Date: 06/28/16
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Re: Stus-List Better race trackers?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I like this one too.

Click on the "Swiftsure Race Tracker" lower left corner for developer info.

Mad Dog is running away with this one. Mail Order 
Bride is a group of friends. It looks like you 
need a multi-hull boat this year.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 03:00 PM 28/06/2016, you wrote:
Have a look at 
http://tracker.r2ak.com/. 
I'm not sure what software they are using but I 
think it's using Spot tracks. It's the same 
tracking software that the Royal Victoria Yacht 
Club uses for the Van Isle 360.
This is also a fabulous race if you don't know 
about it already. 
http://r2ak.com/ 750 miles 
through mostly wilderness, cold tidal water with 
huge currents, totally on your own. The only 
rule is you can't have a motor - at all. At 
least one boat removed their motor to enter the 
race. Only two checkpoints, to make sure you go 
up the inside of the island. First prize is 
$10,000, second prize is a set of steak knives. 
That's it. Boats range from a SUP (withdrew due 
to knee problems but was beating 2/3 of the 
fleet) to an ORMA 60 tri (couldn't make the 
start because it fell apart off the California coast).


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 28 June 2016 at 14:26, Kevin Driscoll via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Pacific Cup uses YB. Vic-Maui too. You can 
replay past races and sort per division and/or 
favorite boats. I am studying them to come up 
with a winning routing strategy for this years race.Â


http://yb.tl/paccup14?ignoreUA=true

KD

On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 1:02 PM Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Two years ago we used the Spot as a cheaper 
alternative to YellowBrick.  I think it also 
allowed filtering, but the Spots did not update 
when they were supposed to on a number of boats, 
including mine.  YB was much more 
reliable.  Also used YB for Annapolis Newport, 
and Newport Bermuda used it too.  I don't know 
the pricing, but I've been told it is "expensive".


For Newport Bermuda, position reports were 
delayed 4 hours so competitors had to make their 
own ​strategic decisions instead of following "that" boat.


Joel

On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 3:36 PM, Dennis C. via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
After watching a few regattas using race 
trackers, I was wondering which trackers the 
list thinks work well.  My area seems to like 
Kattack.  The issue I have with Kattack is it 
doesn't seem to allow you to look at individual 
classes.  Several folks  asked me why Touche' 
looked so "bad" after the sea buoy.  If 
watchers could have just looked at the 
non-spinnaker fleet they would have seen we were well in front.


Watching Joel's Bermuda race was better because 
you can filter out the classes you don't want to 
watch.  Makes it more relevant.


What trackers are good?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!





--
Joel
301 541 8551
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This list is supported by the generous donations 
of our members. If you like what we do, please 
help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations 
of our members. If you like what we do, please 
help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations 
of our members. If you like what we do, please 
help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stu's 30 for selling again?

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Is that a reaching strut chocked to the starboard side deck in image #6? That's 
what a Rob Ball deck hardware blueprint I have shows, but my 1972 30-1 (hull 
#7) doesn't have chocks on the deck for the reaching strut. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Stu via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Stu"  
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 6:01:51 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stu's 30 for selling again? 

Yes – that was our dream boat for almost 15 years. 
Stu 
From: Don Harben via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 7:20 PM 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Don Harben 
Subject: Stus-List Stu's 30 for selling again? 
Sailboat, 1973 C&C 30 

Very nicely tricked out 30 if this was his! 


Don 

Don Harben 
Viking 34 
Life 
www.ncyc.ca 



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No virus found in this message. 
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 2016.0.7640 / Virus Database: 4613/12512 - Release Date: 06/28/16 

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!