Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Yes Robert that was 7.3 kts max close hauled SOG on the gps almost
unbelievable for a C&C 32. A real nice ride

On Friday, February 12, 2016, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Doug:
>
> Their is no one or simple answer on when to reef a C&C 33 MKII
> .depends on several factors.are you racing the boat or just
> cruising.  Do you do head sail changes or just keep one on the roller
> furler?  If one on the roller furler, what size is it..150%, 135%,
> 100%?  Are you an experienced sailor or have you recently entered the
> sport?
>
> Some years back, we raced a C&C 33 MKII extensively.most of the races
> were in wind conditions under 25 knts true.therefore, many days,
> depending on the conditions, we would reduce the size of the headsail
> before we reefed the main sail.
>
> Nevertheless, from memory, the crew would start the discussio about
> reefing the main when the true wind reached 18 to 20 knts.   If the true
> wind held between 18 to 20 knts, we might sail with the #2..if the wind
> was above 20 knts true, we would reef and hoist the #3.
>
> My last sail in the Fall of 2015 with Dwight on my 32, we were in about 16
> knts true and had a full main and 100% and our speed on the GPS was 7.1 to
> 7.3 knts to weather..the boat was standing up quite nicely and it was a
> comfortable ride.  The C&C 33 MK II will sail every bit as good or better.
>
> Trusting this helps.  Most important thing is to have fun.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 -84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> On 2016-02-10 9:42 PM, Doug Welch via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Can't wait for spring to get out on our (new to us) 33-2. Looking for
> input on when folks start to reef.
>
>
> Cheers,
> Doug
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>

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Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I say,  if you're wondering if you should reef, you should reef before you head 
out.   It's a whole lot easier to shake a reef out if you don't need it than it 
is to put one in if you decide you need one while under way. 
You can really never reef to early (if your not racing) but,  you can wait to 
long to reef and cause yourself undue stress. 
Of course,  I don't race so I'm not under any pressure to win anything. 
Danny
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: 
robert via CnC-List  Date: 2/12/2016  3:37 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert  
Subject: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2 

Doug:



Their is no one or simple answer on when to reef a C&C 33 MKII
.depends on several factors.are you racing the boat or just
cruising.  Do you do head sail changes or just keep one on the
roller furler?  If one on the roller furler, what size is
it..150%, 135%, 100%?  Are you an experienced sailor or have you
recently entered the sport?   



Some years back, we raced a C&C 33 MKII extensively.most of
the races were in wind conditions under 25 knts true.therefore,
many days, depending on the conditions, we would reduce the size of
the headsail before we reefed the main sail.



Nevertheless, from memory, the crew would start the discussio about
reefing the main when the true wind reached 18 to 20 knts.   If the
true wind held between 18 to 20 knts, we might sail with the
#2..if the wind was above 20 knts true, we would reef and hoist
the #3.



My last sail in the Fall of 2015 with Dwight on my 32, we were in
about 16 knts true and had a full main and 100% and our speed on the
GPS was 7.1 to 7.3 knts to weather..the boat was standing up
quite nicely and it was a comfortable ride.  The C&C 33 MK II
will sail every bit as good or better.



Trusting this helps.  Most important thing is to have fun.



Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 -84

Halifax, N.S.









On 2016-02-10 9:42 PM, Doug Welch via
  CnC-List wrote:



  
Can't wait for spring
  to get out on our (new to us) 33-2. Looking for input on when
  folks start to reef.






Cheers,
Doug
  
  

  
  

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Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

As my old dad always used to say, "The time to reef is when you first think 
about it." The reasoning being that it's easier to shake the reef if the air 
lightens than it is to tuck one in if it gets breezier.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Feb 13, 2016, at 06:23, dwight veinot via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Yes Robert that was 7.3 kts max close hauled SOG on the gps almost 
> unbelievable for a C&C 32. A real nice ride
> 
>> On Friday, February 12, 2016, robert via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Doug:
>> 
>> Their is no one or simple answer on when to reef a C&C 33 MKII .depends 
>> on several factors.are you racing the boat or just cruising.  Do you do 
>> head sail changes or just keep one on the roller furler?  If one on the 
>> roller furler, what size is it..150%, 135%, 100%?  Are you an 
>> experienced sailor or have you recently entered the sport?   
>> 
>> Some years back, we raced a C&C 33 MKII extensively.most of the races 
>> were in wind conditions under 25 knts true.therefore, many days, 
>> depending on the conditions, we would reduce the size of the headsail before 
>> we reefed the main sail.
>> 
>> Nevertheless, from memory, the crew would start the discussio about reefing 
>> the main when the true wind reached 18 to 20 knts.   If the true wind held 
>> between 18 to 20 knts, we might sail with the #2..if the wind was above 
>> 20 knts true, we would reef and hoist the #3.
>> 
>> My last sail in the Fall of 2015 with Dwight on my 32, we were in about 16 
>> knts true and had a full main and 100% and our speed on the GPS was 7.1 to 
>> 7.3 knts to weather..the boat was standing up quite nicely and it was a 
>> comfortable ride.  The C&C 33 MK II will sail every bit as good or better.
>> 
>> Trusting this helps.  Most important thing is to have fun.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 -84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 2016-02-10 9:42 PM, Doug Welch via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Can't wait for spring to get out on our (new to us) 33-2. Looking for input 
>>> on when folks start to reef.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> Doug
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

One season I started early and just left the main reefed even when I packed
up at the end of a sail. We get stiff wind here in early May. Anyway with
Alianna I now prefer full main and furled genoa 135 to 120 then to110 and
mine works ok furled to 100% with no change of lead points. If that's still
too much for comfort the genoa gets rolled up all the way and just full
main alone. Racing is different as the amount of sail you can carry is a
function of weight on the windward rail; crew weight. Never really had
enough on Alianna but I would love to try her with 6 or 8 agile 200
pounders up there; then I am using a 150 up front and ready to do sail
changes.

On Saturday, February 13, 2016, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I say,  if you're wondering if you should reef, you should reef before you
> head out.   It's a whole lot easier to shake a reef out if you don't need
> it than it is to put one in if you decide you need one while under way.
>
> You can really never reef to early (if your not racing) but,  you can wait
> to long to reef and cause yourself undue stress.
>
> Of course,  I don't race so I'm not under any pressure to win anything.
>
> Danny
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>  Original message 
> From: robert via CnC-List  >
> Date: 2/12/2016 3:37 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Cc: robert  >
> Subject: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2
>
> Doug:
>
> Their is no one or simple answer on when to reef a C&C 33 MKII
> .depends on several factors.are you racing the boat or just
> cruising.  Do you do head sail changes or just keep one on the roller
> furler?  If one on the roller furler, what size is it..150%, 135%,
> 100%?  Are you an experienced sailor or have you recently entered the
> sport?
>
> Some years back, we raced a C&C 33 MKII extensively.most of the races
> were in wind conditions under 25 knts true.therefore, many days,
> depending on the conditions, we would reduce the size of the headsail
> before we reefed the main sail.
>
> Nevertheless, from memory, the crew would start the discussio about
> reefing the main when the true wind reached 18 to 20 knts.   If the true
> wind held between 18 to 20 knts, we might sail with the #2..if the wind
> was above 20 knts true, we would reef and hoist the #3.
>
> My last sail in the Fall of 2015 with Dwight on my 32, we were in about 16
> knts true and had a full main and 100% and our speed on the GPS was 7.1 to
> 7.3 knts to weather..the boat was standing up quite nicely and it was a
> comfortable ride.  The C&C 33 MK II will sail every bit as good or better.
>
> Trusting this helps.  Most important thing is to have fun.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 -84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> On 2016-02-10 9:42 PM, Doug Welch via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Can't wait for spring to get out on our (new to us) 33-2. Looking for
> input on when folks start to reef.
>
>
> Cheers,
> Doug
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>

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Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[Mike Amirault via CnC-List]

Dwight, you’re dreamin’. You are never gonna find 7 or 8 agile 200 pounders 
willing to sit on your rail. neither will I.
For that reason, I have decided to not race Lovely Cruise any longer.___

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Re: Stus-List Butyl

[Prime Interest via CnC-List]

On 2/10/2016 12:27 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


He will ship to Canada, but it makes little sense (IIRC the shipping 
cost was higher than the butyl tape itself). Try his email, but your 
results will vary.


I shipped it to a friend in the US and then got it across the border.

If you have no other option, probably the best is to ship it to a e.g. 
UPS store next to the border and get it personally. Or order large 
quantities and spread the cost.


Marek

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Sam Wheeler via CnC-List

*Sent:* Tuesday, February 09, 2016 21:35
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Sam Wheeler 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Butyl

I can't speak for international shipping, but I placed on order 
yesterday for some butyl from Compass Marine (aka Maine Sail) to San 
Francisco and got a shipping confirmation email today.  Should be here 
on Thursday.


Sam

C&C 35 mk III

On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 4:30 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


As a heads-up (only if you are _not_ in USA, I hope)  ...
unfortunately several attempts to contact Compass for a shipping
quote on Bed-it went unanswered. YMMV of course.



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I just placed an order for Bed-it being delivered to a US drop-off and 
was filled within the day. As I only have use for one of the two rolls 
if anyone would like to buy the extra send me a note. To keep your cost 
down arranging pickup in downtown Toronto is probably easiest. With a 
bit of luck it might be brought back here next week but otherwise it 
will be mid-March.


Ed

Prime Interest

1982 LF38

Toronto, Ontario

primeinter...@gmail.com 

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I'm late to the party here, but our Espar (installed when the boat was new)
draws 20A for a minute or so on startup. After I replaced all the wiring
from the batteries to the heater, it used to start with the motor off, but
a couple of years ago it started not firing up without the motor or
shorepower. I took it apart and cleaned it and went with Espar's advice to
run it for an hour on high using kerosene, and for a season it worked just
fine starting off the house batteries.
Now it's getting balky again so I may have to redo the kerosene trick and
maybe pull the glow plug for cleaning. An hour of run time hardly touched
the level of kerosene in a gallon jug. I'd love to replace it with a new
one, but they are really pricey now so I'll keep going with the 30+ year
old unit until it finally won't run.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 12 February 2016 at 16:37, David Blair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jeff I am here in Victoria and thinking about whether a Wallas would be my
> best choice. I have talked to the guys at Trotac a couple of times. I’d be
> interested in hearing about your installation experience details. Could we
> chat off line?  I have a 34+ and getting a duct to the V berth would be
> problematic. Thanks
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jeff
> Allston via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 07, 2016 12:03 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeff Allston
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
>
>
>
> Josh,
>
>
>
> That's one of their models. Mine is the furnace only, no stove/oven.
>
>
>
> See http://www.wallas.fi/index.php?id=45 for details.
>
>
>
> Jeff
>
> s/v Full Deck
>
> Victoria, BC
> --
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2016 18:19:05 -0500
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: muckl...@gmail.com
>
> Jeff,
>
> Is Wallas the diesel stove/oven that starts a blower when you close the
> lid?  Cool idea for getting propane off the boat.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Feb 6, 2016 1:19 PM, "Jeff Allston via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> Hi Steve,
>
>
>
> I had a Wallas 30 Dt installed on my 32 two autumns ago. I live on the
> boat in Victoria over the winter so it gets a fair amount of use.
>
>
>
> I went with a professional installer and it took him two days to get it
> all done. It would have taken me significantly longer. The heater is
> installed in the port lazarette tucked up under the coaming. It's a bit of
> a pain to remove for servicing, but it's out of the way the rest of the
> year.
>
>
>
> This model heater has two hot air ducts and two cold air returns. One cold
> air return is under the cockpit seat on the port side and the other is in
> the cabin on the bulkhead behind the fridge. Both hot air runs enter under
> the sink and I have one outlet vent there. I ran the other duct under the
> stove, behind the water tank, through the hanging locker and, finally, out
> the bottom of the storage in the v berth. I wrapped the heating ducts with
> insulation. Don't skip this step.
>
>
>
> It works great. I went with Wallas because the national distributor is in
> town and I figured they would have all the parts and expertise I would ever
> need.
>
>
>
> If you want more details, and there are many, let me know.
>
>
>
> Jeff
>
> s/v Full Deck
>
> Victoria
> --
>
> Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2016 14:41:17 -0500
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> I'm starting to look at the Espar and Webasto units. Is anyone running one
> on a 32? There's a good price jump from the Espar D2 to the D4. The
> literature indicates the D2 is good to 26 feet of boat, so it sounds like I
> need the D4 :(
>
>
>
> My use is Georgian Bay, just want to extend the season, not living aboard
> in the winter. The boat is two hours away so there will be "maintenance"
> trips in the spring and fall which means sleeping aboard, it can get quite
> cold up there.
>
>
>
> I have to keep the temps warm for the boat parrot who'll be living aboard
> with us while we cruise. We're planning three weeks in August this year so
> it shouldn't be too much of an issue but it gets cold up there at night,
> even in August. I imagine a D2 would be fine for cold summer nights but I
> have ideas about maybe cruising the North Channel when the fall colours are
> out. I don't want to limit myself. At the same time, I don't want to spend
> money that could go elsewhere.
>
>
>
> The Newport Dickinson Diesel bulkhead heaters are pretty but I hear they
> don't make quite enough heat. I'm leaning this way for the cost, but don't
> want to be disappointed. Everyone says the Espar and Webastos are best.
>
>
>
> I'de be doing the installation myself in any case so am ea

Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Dwight's content should not be missed.
Crew weight is as important as apparent wind 
speed & angle and maybe even include time to 
destination or course change for deciding "when to reef".


For me, a simple observation "is the toe-rail 
getting buried" is the tell-tale. If she can't be 
put back on 'er feet by dropping the traveller, 
flattening the main or easing the vang & sheet to 
twist off the head, changing course a bit, 
getting some "wellies to weather" then it's time to reef.


Let the toe-rail be your guide. This goes for any 
size of our boats, they are not initially tender 
so it is not fast or comfortable to sail "on yur ear".


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 06:26 AM 13/02/2016, you wrote:
One season I started early and just left the 
main reefed even when I packed up at the end of 
a sail. We get stiff wind here in early May. 
Anyway with Alianna I now prefer full main and 
furled genoa 135 to 120 then to110 and mine 
works ok furled to 100% with no change of lead 
points. If that's still too much for comfort the 
genoa gets rolled up all the way and just full 
main alone. Racing is different as the amount of 
sail you can carry is a function of weight on 
the windward rail; crew weight. Never really had 
enough on Alianna but I would love to try her 
with 6 or 8 agile 200 pounders up there; then I 
am using a 150 up front and ready to do sail changes.Â




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Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[allen via CnC-List]

Jim,

Which model did you select?

Allen Miles
C&C 30-2 Septima
ampton, VA


From: allen 
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 10:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jim Reinardy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3


I went through this same process last year.  I was very interested in the 
MaxProp until I talked to a friend of mine who raved about his Gori 3-blade.  I 
looked into it and wound up buying a Gori 3-blade for our 30-2 as well.  It’s a 
unique design where the blades reverse, providing full performance in reverse 
as well as a 2nd more aggressive pitch for cruising.  It eliminated our prop 
walk and has performed very well for us.  Lower drag when folded compared to 
the MaxProp.  No connection to any of the companies, but thought I would add 
another name to the search list.

 

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI

 

I have a Max-Prop and have enjoyed the consistent operation and quality of 
engineering which went into it.  If I were in the market for a prop I would 
seriously consider a flex-fold.  As I understand it there is no pitch to set 
and IIRC many of the components are plastic.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
Yanmar 3HM35F - Max-Prop

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Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> ...with 6 or 8 agile 200 pounders up there...



Calypso displaces +-24,000lbs with almost 10,000 of that in the keel.



Back in 2008 on the up wind leg of a particularly windy (25 to 35 TWS) 
Foulweather Bluff race we had Calypso set up with 1 reef in the main and a #3 
headsail.  We passed most of the lighter boats that were relying on crew weight 
ballast.  I told the older less agile crew that they could sit wherever they 
wanted, even below if they got cold.



In the higher end of the wind range we would pop in the 2nd reef but the sea 
state made it attractive to keep the power up, heel over a bit and bash some 
waves.  We would  smile and wave to the overpowered boats sliding off to 
leeward eventually having to tack to avoid being embayed in Useless Bay.  
Calypso finally got her conditions, big wind, big waves, adverse current.  We 
finished 3rd in class.



Shortly after crossing the finish line off Edmonds WA we headed back south (up 
wind) to our home port, Shilshole Bay Marina.  Before we made more than a mile 
of progress we got hit with a 48 knot gust (had 2 reefs in the main, #3 
headsail).  The gust knocked us down deep enough to have green water over the 
cockpit winches.  I heard some nasty cracking sounds which turned out to be an 
early indicator of the balsa rot issues in Calypso's deck.  We also broke part 
of the roller furler torque tube.



>From that high wind race I got a great T-shirt, sea story, and confirmation of 
>the 43's heavy weather performance.  I also dug the #4 headsail out of storage 
>to have on board for the next race/delivery with a high wind forecast.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle




From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 6:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

One season I started early and just left the main reefed even when I packed up 
at the end of a sail. We get stiff wind here in early May. Anyway with Alianna 
I now prefer full main and furled genoa 135 to 120 then to110 and mine works ok 
furled to 100% with no change of lead points. If that's still too much for 
comfort the genoa gets rolled up all the way and just full main alone. Racing 
is different as the amount of sail you can carry is a function of weight on the 
windward rail; crew weight. Never really had enough on Alianna but I would love 
to try her with 6 or 8 agile 200 pounders up there; then I am using a 150 up 
front and ready to do sail changes.
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Re: Stus-List Post to list

[allen via CnC-List]

David,

When I first raced Septima I was getting 7 seconds over the deep keel 
versions.  I looked at the PHRFs a couple of years ago and found that I am 
now giving 3 seconds.


A clean bottom makes all the difference.  With a Martec folding prop Septima 
will fly up to windward so covering a shorter course doesn't hurt either.


Allen Miles
C&C 30-2 Septima
Hampton, VA
--
From: "David Miles via CnC-List" 
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2016 11:52 AM
To: 
Cc: "David Miles" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Post to list


Hi All,

Does anyone know how much slower the wing keel will make a 1988 C&C 30-2
than a standard keel?

Best regards,

David Miles

1-604-575-1491
mi...@intergate.ca

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Liles via CnC-List
Sent: February-10-16 10:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Re: Stus-List Post to list

No, I'm bringing it to Vancouver when I can.

Cheers, Al



On Feb 10, 2016, at 9:37 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List

 wrote:


Congrats! Beautiful boat.

Going to keep it in Sidney?

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

-Original Message- From: Alan Liles via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 8:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Re: Stus-List Post to list

Thanks for the warm welcome.

Cheers, Al



On Feb 10, 2016, at 7:50 PM, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List

 wrote:


Congratulations!
Its a beautiful boat and you can look forward to lots of fast races and

comfortable cruising alike!


Tracy Hirsh
Ogopogo
1989 C&C 37+ CB
Fairhope AL

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Re: Stus-List Post to list

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Al,

As I mentioned above, our HIN has C090 = March of 1990, 1990 Model Year.

The order for our boat, Hull 67, was placed in late December of 1989, order
confirmed with deposit in January 1990, hoping for completion in April,
1990.  It actually went out the factory door on May 15, 1990 with Andrews
Trucking.

So, I'd guess your E3 = May of '93 as you suggested but your boat may not
have been completed and shipped until June or July, and as you noted, as a
1994 model.

Your boat's nearest older sister is Hull 87, with a D393 in her HIN so the
last '93 model.  This boat is now called Xocomil (formerly "Joy") and is
listed wiht a home port of TACOMA WA.

Elendil's next younger sister is Serenity (formerly Dagny, Funhouse II),
Hull 89 with a G394, so July of 93 build, but a 1994 model like yours.

The last 37+ I have been able to find a HIN for is Hull 90, now known
as Carrera (formerly Z-Breeze, Somewhere), which has a K394 in the HIN so
was under construction in November of 1993, as a 1994 model.


Ken H.

On 11 February 2016 at 13:34, Alan Liles via CnC-List  wrote:

> ZCC40088E394, so built May 93 but a 94 model? Oddly like the auto industry
> in the leeway between build dates and model years.
>
> Cheers, Al
>
>
> On Feb 11, 2016, at 8:58 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Very likely finished before the fire.  Your full hull number and can tell
> you what month your build started.  The number on the transom that starts
> ZCC40 something...
>
> Ours is ZCC37067C090 which translates as:
>
> ZCC = the three letter code for C&C Yachts. The first three characters are
> a MIC (Manufacturer Identification Code) assigned by the Coast Guard to the
> manufacturer.
>
> Characters four through eight are a serial number assigned by the
> manufacturer.  C&C used the first two of these to indicate the model (i.e.
> boat length in feet) and the last three as serial number.
>
> 37 = 37' long (yours will have a 40 here as they stopped pretending it was
> a 37" boat after 1993)
>
> 067 = Hull Number 67 of the series.
>
> C0 = March of 1990
>
> 90 = 1990 Model Year
>
> http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On 11 February 2016 at 00:07, Alan Liles via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Yes, 1994. I know that the factory burned that year and I wonder if it
>> was built before that or finished somewhere else.
>>
>> Al Liles
>> SV Elendil
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>>
>> On Feb 10, 2016, at 5:43 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I also agree, great boat.  Elindil is a 1994 I think?  One of the newest
>> Canadian C&C's out there.
>>
>> Congratulations.
>>
>> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
>> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
>> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
>> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>>
>> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

“toe rail getting buried” might not be the best indicator. 

 

To bury the toe rail on my 38 takes over 33 degrees of heel. And the boat is
at its best with 18 to 20. 25 degrees of heel still leaves the toe rail
about a foot out of the water.

 

Now my 25 is different. There is less free board so 25 degrees of heal puts
the toe rail just about in the water. But the boat is still faster and more
comfortable with only about 20 degrees on her.

 

If I am in a hurry, when I get to about 15 degrees of heel, and presuming
there are no white faces and white knuckles among the guests, I will start
doing the other things you suggest: dropping the traveler, flattening the
main or easing the vang & sheet to twist off the head, changing course a
bit, etc. If that doesn’t cut it, it is time to reef. And white faces and
white knuckles mean reefing even earlier.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ &
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 1:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

 


Dwight's content should not be missed. 
Crew weight is as important as apparent wind speed & angle and maybe even
include time to destination or course change for deciding "when to reef".

For me, a simple observation "is the toe-rail getting buried" is the
tell-tale. If she can't be put back on 'er feet by dropping the traveller,
flattening the main or easing the vang & sheet to twist off the head,
changing course a bit, getting some "wellies to weather" then it's time to
reef.

Let the toe-rail be your guide. This goes for any size of our boats, they
are not initially tender so it is not fast or comfortable to sail "on yur
ear".

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 06:26 AM 13/02/2016, you wrote:



One season I started early and just left the main reefed even when I packed
up at the end of a sail. We get stiff wind here in early May. Anyway with
Alianna I now prefer full main and furled genoa 135 to 120 then to110 and
mine works ok furled to 100% with no change of lead points. If that's still
too much for comfort the genoa gets rolled up all the way and just full
main alone. Racing is different as the amount of sail you can carry is a
function of weight on the windward rail; crew weight. Never really had
enough on Alianna but I would love to try her with 6 or 8 agile 200 pounders
up there; then I am using a 150 up front and ready to do sail changes. 





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Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Rick,

Thanks for backing me up on this.

It's a good thread and we got enough information 
to conclude there is no simple "time to reef" and 
there is a pile of good tricks to forestall tucking in a reef.


Sometimes, the best time to reef is as you 
express with using angle of heel as the indicator 
to gain the best speed and comfort. However, 
there are times on the race course, with the 45', 
where I will not call for a reef if the windward 
mark can be seen. It is often quicker to carry 
on, with a crew of  6 - 9 and recalling the statement,
"The chance for mistakes is about equal to the 
number of crew squared."  -  Ted Turner


And I hope my point was not interpreted by anyone 
as: "reef when the toe-rail in in the water".
That is not the same as: "if your toe-rail is in 
then water, it's time to reef."


"Any fool can carry on, but a wise man knows how 
to shorten sail in time." -  Joseph Conrad


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island




At 01:39 PM 13/02/2016, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0006_01D1667D.14003C80"
Content-Language: en-us

“toe rail getting buried” might not be the best indicator.

To bury the toe rail on my 38 takes over 33 
degrees of heel. And the boat is at its best 
with 18 to 20. 25 degrees of heel still leaves 
the toe rail about a foot out of the water.


Now my 25 is different. There is less free board 
so 25 degrees of heal puts the toe rail just 
about in the water. But the boat is still faster 
and more comfortable with only about 20 degrees on her.


If I am in a hurry, when I get to about 15 
degrees of heel, and presuming there are no 
white faces and white knuckles among the guests, 
I will start doing the other things you suggest: 
dropping the traveler, flattening the main or 
easing the vang & sheet to twist off the head, 
changing course a bit, etc. If that doesn’t cut 
it, it is time to reef. And white faces and 
white knuckles mean reefing even earlier.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 1:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C&C 33-2


Dwight's content should not be missed.
Crew weight is as important as apparent wind 
speed & angle and maybe even include time to 
destination or course change for deciding "when to reef".


For me, a simple observation "is the toe-rail 
getting buried" is the tell-tale. If she can't 
be put back on 'er feet by dropping the 
traveller, flattening the main or easing the 
vang & sheet to twist off the head, changing 
course a bit, getting some "wellies to weather" then it's time to reef.


Let the toe-rail be your guide. This goes for 
any size of our boats, they are not initially 
tender so it is not fast or comfortable to sail "on yur ear".


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 06:26 AM 13/02/2016, you wrote:

One season I started early and just left the 
main reefed even when I packed up at the end of 
a sail. We get stiff wind here in early May. 
Anyway with Alianna I now prefer full main and 
furled genoa 135 to 120 then to110 and mine 
works ok furled to 100% with no change of lead 
points. If that's still too much for comfort the 
genoa gets rolled up all the way and just full 
main alone. Racing is different as the amount of 
sail you can carry is a function of weight on 
the windward rail; crew weight. Never really had 
enough on Alianna but I would love to try her 
with 6 or 8 agile 200 pounders up there; then I 
am using a 150 up front and ready to do sail changes.Â




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Stus-List Number Plate

[Tom Alessi via CnC-List]

Hi,
I'm pretty new to the group and have seen the explanations concerning HIN 
numbers. What's the explanation of the number plaque located in the V-berth by 
the holding tank? Mine reads : No. 618630 Net 9
Thanks,
Tom

S/V ANDIAMO
1980 C&C 36
Rockaway Beach, NY

tagraph...@optonline.net
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Re: Stus-List Number Plate

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Kinda looks like the CG registration number.  Do you have your CG cert handy to 
check?RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL


  From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Alessi 
 Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 6:09 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Number Plate
   
 Hi,I'm pretty new to the group and have seen the explanations concerning HIN 
numbers. What's the explanation of the number plaque located in the V-berth by 
the holding tank? Mine reads : No. 618630 Net 9Thanks,Tom S/V ANDIAMO1980 C&C 
36Rockaway Beach, NY tagraph...@optonline.net

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Re: Stus-List Number Plate

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

That's a US Coast Guard documentation number not a hull identification
number.

Your HIN should be molded into the gelcoat on the starboard quarter of the
boat.

Dennis C.

On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 6:09 PM, Tom Alessi via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
> I'm pretty new to the group and have seen the explanations concerning HIN
> numbers. What's the explanation of the number plaque located in the V-berth
> by the holding tank? Mine reads : No. 618630 Net 9
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
> S/V ANDIAMO
> 1980 C&C 36
> Rockaway Beach, NY
>
> tagraph...@optonline.net
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Yes, my results did vary, as emails went unanswered.

Otherwise, the site is a great resource.

From: Prime Interest via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 9:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Prime Interest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl

On 2/10/2016 12:27 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

  He will ship to Canada, but it makes little sense (IIRC the shipping cost was 
higher than the butyl tape itself). Try his email, but your results will vary.

   

  I shipped it to a friend in the US and then got it across the border.  

   

  If you have no other option, probably the best is to ship it to a e.g. UPS 
store next to the border and get it personally. Or order large quantities and 
spread the cost.

   

  Marek

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam 
Wheeler via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2016 21:35
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Sam Wheeler mailto:samwheeler.s...@gmail.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl

   

  I can't speak for international shipping, but I placed on order yesterday for 
some butyl from Compass Marine (aka Maine Sail) to San Francisco and got a 
shipping confirmation email today.  Should be here on Thursday.

   

  Sam

  C&C 35 mk III

   

  On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 4:30 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
 wrote:

As a heads-up (only if you are not in USA, I hope)  ... unfortunately 
several attempts to contact Compass for a shipping quote on Bed-it went 
unanswered. YMMV of course.

 


   

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I just placed an order for Bed-it being delivered to a US drop-off and was 
filled within the day. As I only have use for one of the two rolls if anyone 
would like to buy the extra send me a note. To keep your cost down arranging 
pickup in downtown Toronto is probably easiest. With a bit of luck it might be 
brought back here next week but otherwise it will be mid-March.

 

 

Ed

 

Prime Interest

1982 LF38

Toronto, Ontario

 

primeinter...@gmail.com

 




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Re: Stus-List Number Plate

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

https://cgmix.uscg.mil/psix/psixsearch.aspx

http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/pls/webpls/cgv_pkg.vessel_id_list

Looks like the boat was previously documented, probably by one of the
previous owners.  If you decide to document it you should re-use the
number, it will require proof of ownership.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Feb 13, 2016 7:11 PM, "Tom Alessi via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi,
> I'm pretty new to the group and have seen the explanations concerning HIN
> numbers. What's the explanation of the number plaque located in the V-berth
> by the holding tank? Mine reads : No. 618630 Net 9
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
> S/V ANDIAMO
> 1980 C&C 36
> Rockaway Beach, NY
>
> tagraph...@optonline.net
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Number Plate

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

As others have said, that is the USCG documentation number. That is a pretty
old number (the number stays with the vessel over its life - if you were to
renew the documentation you would keep the same number. New numbers are up
around 150) so it may well have gotten documented when it was first
purchased.

 

When last documented (it expired in March 1993) it was named Stardust, and
owned by Teresa J Barbero. The hail port was New York City. And the previous
owner was Joseph A Besso. 9 tonnes is the net capacity (it is a function of
volume, not weight). 11 is the gross tonnage.

 

There was a thorough discussion about documentation on the list about a
month ago, as I recall, so you may want to look at the archives. The high
points are that you are supposed to have your vessel documented (which is
like a US title) if you sail to another country, many lenders want the boat
documented as a security against fraud, it is supposed to be harder to
dispose of a stolen vessel if it is documented, and in many states you do
not need to get state registration or put the ugly numbers and/or stickers
on your bow. But the last varies depending on the laws of the state you live
in. 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

USCG 664669

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Under 5 tonnes net so can't be documented

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Alessi via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 7:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Alessi 
Subject: Stus-List Number Plate

 

Hi,

I'm pretty new to the group and have seen the explanations concerning HIN
numbers. What's the explanation of the number plaque located in the V-berth
by the holding tank? Mine reads : No. 618630 Net 9

Thanks,

Tom

 

S/V ANDIAMO

1980 C&C 36

Rockaway Beach, NY

 

tagraph...@optonline.net  

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Re: Stus-List Number Plate

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

So right on the tonnage.

Net tonnage is the cargo carrying capacity of wine casks in the old 
days. The good old days, a couple o' hundred years ago. :)
So, it means you can go cruising with 1800 gallons of wine and not 
much else. Nothing wrong with that eh.


Gross tonnage includes machinery, crew and galley spaces.

cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 06:18 PM 13/02/2016, you wrote:

When last documented (it expired in March 1993) it was named 
Stardust, and owned by Teresa J Barbero. The hail port was New York 
City. And the previous owner was Joseph A Besso. 9 tonnes is the net 
capacity (it is a function of volume, not weight). 11 is the gross tonnage.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
USCG 664669
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
Under 5 tonnes net so can't be documented
Washington, NC


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