Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List]

‎Thanks guys.
2 lines for safety also means 2 guys on the winches to make life easier going 
up...



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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Marek

Did you change boats? thought you had a C&C 24...is that a Catalina 27 you
have now

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 10:19 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Funny, but it works the other way around. PYI collar is $25 (their
> website) and similar collar from McMaster-Carr is $32 (both for 1" shaft).
> I am not surprised that they cost as much as this is a solid piece of 316
> SS.
>
>
>
> Btw. I don't have any interest in the company (other than I have the shaft
> seal and the collar installed).
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> 1994 C270 Legato
>
> Ottawa
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Peter
> Fell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June-06-15 12:43
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Peter Fell
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> Well looks like PSS finally listened to Compass Marine:
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal
>
>
>
> The point being I expect the shaft collar he uses is orders of magnitude
> cheaper than the one PSS supplies.
>
>
>
> I would consider relying on zincs and retention rings  and just the
> worn key ... to secure the shaft together to be a temporary measure only.
> You know it’s going to shear at the worst possible moment!
>
>
>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
>
>
>
> *From:* Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent:* Friday, June 05, 2015 7:46 PM
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic 
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> You can always put a retention ring (
> http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=src ) on the inside (between the
> coupling and the packing gland). Much better than the zinc.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Brad Crawford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June-05-15 14:48
> *To:* 'Brent Driedger'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brad Crawford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> Yes I have the same feelings.  I also have zincs on the shaft in front of
> the strut, I guess it eases the feeling of losing the shaft, provided the
> zinc stays put?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Brad
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Brent Driedger [mailto:bren...@highspeedcrow.ca
> ]
> *Sent:* Friday, June 5, 2015 11:35 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brad Crawford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> I have been dealing with exactly that issue since I bought my boat 7 years
> ago. It hasn't been an issue and as a backup I have a zinc anode on the
> shaft about 3/8" from the packing nut just in case it lets loose. I'm sure
> the keyway is wearing out as a result but I haven't noticed any increase in
> play. It's just on my mind as one of those " not quite right" things
>
>
>
> Brent
>
> 27-5
>
> Lake Winnipeg
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:16 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back
> in and the boat back together discovered that the propeller shaft coupling
> is a little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8” of rotational movement on the
> shaft, like possibly the keyway is worn?.  Have tried tightening the set
> screws, which secures the coupling but eventually they work loose and again
> there is movement of the coupling on the shaft.  It’s been recommended that
> I have the boat hauled,  the coupling removed,  the shaft pulled out and
> provided the shaft is ok, a new coupling fitted and faced to the shaft, and
> then reinstalled for a final alignment.
>
>
>
> My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with a
> loose coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned
> about?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Brad Crawford
>
> CnC 36
>
> Seattle
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

No problem for the rig but a little hard on the guys taking you up there...
use a second halyard for safety, don't trust snap shackles, tie your
harness on with a bowline and take along a spare line that you can lower to
get things you might forget...hoist those thinks up in a basket or a
bucket...make sure people below stand clear of falling objects like screw
drivers for example

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 9:57 PM, Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  ‎I'd like to replace my windex with a new one, but don't want to drop
> the mast to do it.
> On larger boats we send someone up the mast to retrieve halyards etc, but
> has anyone done this on a 30-1?
> I wonder if 200lbs at the top to install a new windex is too much of a
> risk of damage or injury. Has anyone lived to tell the story?
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Dutchman Mainsail Flaking system

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Our boat came with a Dutchman flaking system that the FO said never worked.
I've rigged it and added a mast gate to keep the luff slides in the luff
track.  So far, this looks promising.  

 

The main issue that I'm having is reefing the main.  It does not seem that
the system will work with the reef hooks.  The sail flakes over the hooks
and the luff slides twist.  The Dutchman literature recommends using forward
reef lines.  They suggest installing pad eyes and cleats in the mast for the
lines.

 

First, any feedback from those of you who have Dutchman's?  If so, how do
you handle reefing?

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

I have what is called the mast mate, it's a ladder made of webbing that you 
pull up the mast track , I climb my mast twice a year to install and remove 
wind instruments before stepping and dropping the stick . You can usually find 
an ad for the mast mate I'm the back of most sailing magazines , 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Jun 6, 2015, at 8:57 PM, Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> ‎I'd like to replace my windex with a new one, but don't want to drop the 
> mast to do it.
> On larger boats we send someone up the mast to retrieve halyards etc, but has 
> anyone done this on a 30-1?
> I wonder if 200lbs at the top to install a new windex is too much of a risk 
> of damage or injury. Has anyone lived to tell the story?
> Cheers,
> Jay
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
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> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

On the wire halyard you clip into the eye, rather than to the shackle. The idea 
is to eliminate as many single failure points as possible. Another point is 
that you don't want to hang on a device that can be easily opened (especially 
by mistake) - e.g. snap shackle.

 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of S Thomas via 
CnC-List
Sent: June-06-15 22:52
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

 

Bowlines don't work so good with wire, but I have followed the same procedure 
otherwise. 

Bought an ascender based "Mast Climber" at a boat show last year, but have not 
tried it out yet. 

 

Steve Thomas

C&C27 MKIII

Port Stanley, ON 

- Original Message - 

From: Mike Casey via CnC-List   

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Mike Casey   

Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2015 21:39

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

 

You use two halyards; you go up on the main; the jib is used as a spare. Don't 
use the clips; tie bowlines.

 

On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 10:16 PM, Chuck Borge via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Jay, 

I'm around 225 and just did it on my C&C34. And years ago was the go-to guy on 
a J30.  Scary that on that crew, I was both youngest and lightest... Yikes. 

Not a bad ride, just have a good chair, and good guys in the winch. 

Good luck, 

Chuck B

C&C34 Elusive

Somerset, MA



Sent from my iPad


On Jun 6, 2015, at 8:57 PM, Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

‎I'd like to replace my windex with a new one, but don't want to drop the mast 
to do it.

On larger boats we send someone up the mast to retrieve halyards etc, but has 
anyone done this on a 30-1?

I wonder if 200lbs at the top to install a new windex is too much of a risk of 
damage or injury. Has anyone lived to tell the story?

Cheers,

Jay

 

 

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  _  

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Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

 I agree absolutely where snap shackles are concerned, but wire main halyards 
are seldom equipped with such devices. 

Steve
  - Original Message - 
  From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
  Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2015 08:48
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?


  On the wire halyard you clip into the eye, rather than to the shackle. The 
idea is to eliminate as many single failure points as possible. Another point 
is that you don't want to hang on a device that can be easily opened 
(especially by mistake) - e.g. snap shackle.

   

  Marek

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of S Thomas 
via CnC-List
  Sent: June-06-15 22:52
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: S Thomas
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

   

  Bowlines don't work so good with wire, but I have followed the same procedure 
otherwise. 

  Bought an ascender based "Mast Climber" at a boat show last year, but have 
not tried it out yet. (ATN)

   

  Steve Thomas

  C&C27 MKIII

  Port Stanley, ON 

- Original Message - 

From: Mike Casey via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Mike Casey 

Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2015 21:39

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

 

You use two halyards; you go up on the main; the jib is used as a spare. 
Don't use the clips; tie bowlines.

 

On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 10:16 PM, Chuck Borge via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Jay, 

I'm around 225 and just did it on my C&C34. And years ago was the go-to guy 
on a J30.  Scary that on that crew, I was both youngest and lightest... Yikes. 

Not a bad ride, just have a good chair, and good guys in the winch. 

Good luck, 

Chuck B

C&C34 Elusive

Somerset, MA



Sent from my iPad


On Jun 6, 2015, at 8:57 PM, Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  ‎I'd like to replace my windex with a new one, but don't want to drop the 
mast to do it.

  On larger boats we send someone up the mast to retrieve halyards etc, but 
has anyone done this on a 30-1?

  I wonder if 200lbs at the top to install a new windex is too much of a 
risk of damage or injury. Has anyone lived to tell the story?

  Cheers,

  Jay

   

   

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Dwight,

 

A full confession

 

I had a C&C 24, but three years ago we switched and bought the Catalina 270 
(this is a newer version of the 27). My C&C was 1975, this boat is 20 years 
younger; it is almost new (at 20-years of age). It has many things that 
especially my wife is happy about (open transom, twice as much room at the 
cockpit, real head (with door), stove, running water, inboard motor, wheel 
steering (no more hitting everyone's knees at the tack), no wood to varnish, 
not to mention that this is not a boat to put the rail in the water on the 
regular basis).

 

We miss our C&C 24 on occasion. It was (is) such nice little boat - a human 
size one. I miss its simplicity (there was hardly anything to maintain) and 
sturdiness (you can't kill it even with an axe). We had it for 7 years. 

 

The good thing is that the problems (challenges) are more or less the same, 
regardless of the boat one has. The inboard motor is diesel (Perkins, but 90% 
of the issues are the same between Perkins, Universal or Yanmar); the pedestal 
is Edson, the electrical system is more or less the same, the running water - 
the same, the head is Jabsco. The specifics are different, but all these boats 
are different, even if they are the same model.

 

I hope after this confession I won't be banned from this list

 

Marek

 

1994 Catalina C270, "Legato"

Ottawa

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: June-07-15 07:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

Marek

Did you change boats? thought you had a C&C 24...is that a Catalina 27 you have 
now




Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net

 

 

On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 10:19 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Funny, but it works the other way around. PYI collar is $25 (their website) and 
similar collar from McMaster-Carr is $32 (both for 1" shaft). I am not 
surprised that they cost as much as this is a solid piece of 316 SS.

 

Btw. I don't have any interest in the company (other than I have the shaft seal 
and the collar installed).

 

Marek

 

1994 C270 Legato 

Ottawa

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-06-15 12:43
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell


Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

Well looks like PSS finally listened to Compass Marine: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal

 

The point being I expect the shaft collar he uses is orders of magnitude 
cheaper than the one PSS supplies.

 

I would consider relying on zincs and retention rings  and just the worn 
key ... to secure the shaft together to be a temporary measure only. You know 
it’s going to shear at the worst possible moment!

 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

 

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List   

Sent: Friday, June 05, 2015 7:46 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Marek Dziedzic   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

You can always put a retention ring 
(http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=src ) on the inside (between the 
coupling and the packing gland). Much better than the zinc.

 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brad 
Crawford via CnC-List
Sent: June-05-15 14:48
To: 'Brent Driedger'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

Yes I have the same feelings.  I also have zincs on the shaft in front of the 
strut, I guess it eases the feeling of losing the shaft, provided the zinc 
stays put?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad 

 

 

 

From: Brent Driedger [mailto:bren...@highspeedcrow.ca] 
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2015 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

I have been dealing with exactly that issue since I bought my boat 7 years ago. 
It hasn't been an issue and as a backup I have a zinc anode on the shaft about 
3/8" from the packing nut just in case it lets loose. I'm sure the keyway is 
wearing out as a result but I haven't noticed any increase in play. It's just 
on my mind as one of those " not quite right" things

 

Brent

27-5

Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:16 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List  
wrote:

I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back in 
and the boat back together discovered that the propeller shaft coupling is a 
little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8” of rotational movement on the shaft, like 
possibly the keyway is worn?.  Have tried tightening the set screws, which 
secures the coupling but eventually they work loose and again there is movement 
of the coupling on the shaft.  It’s been recommended that I have the boat 
hauled,  the cou

Re: Stus-List Dutchman Mainsail Flaking system

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I don't have the Dutchman system, but my main flakes over the reef hooks. I
solved it with "dog bones" (my sailmaker called it like that, but I am not
sure if this is the proper term, as something totally different shows up on
Google) - a loop of webbing sawn into the sail at the reefing points. It
goes through the eye, so it can be pulled on either side of the sail. This
way you can hang that loop on the reefing hook, without wrestling with the
sail and trying to put the actual eye on the hook.

 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ricci
via CnC-List
Sent: June-07-15 07:38
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ricci
Subject: Stus-List Dutchman Mainsail Flaking system

 

Our boat came with a Dutchman flaking system that the FO said never worked.
I've rigged it and added a mast gate to keep the luff slides in the luff
track.  So far, this looks promising.  

 

The main issue that I'm having is reefing the main.  It does not seem that
the system will work with the reef hooks.  The sail flakes over the hooks
and the luff slides twist.  The Dutchman literature recommends using forward
reef lines.  They suggest installing pad eyes and cleats in the mast for the
lines.

 

First, any feedback from those of you who have Dutchman's?  If so, how do
you handle reefing?

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Any kind of ladder does not solve the safety issue. You need a halyard (and a 
person to man it) to keep you from falling. However, any kind of ladder would 
help the winchperson (there is hardly any load on the halyard). I use a string 
of climbing aiders (e.g. 
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/big-wall-climbing/alpine-aiders-BD390050ALL1.html).
 With that, even my wife can help me with getting to the top. Just to be safe I 
use an ascender on a second halyard (always two points protection, when working 
aloft).

 

Marek 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph 
Bognar via CnC-List
Sent: June-07-15 07:58
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joseph Bognar
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

 

I have what is called the mast mate, it's a ladder made of webbing that you 
pull up the mast track , I climb my mast twice a year to install and remove 
wind instruments before stepping and dropping the stick . You can usually find 
an ad for the mast mate I'm the back of most sailing magazines , 

Sent from Joe Bognar

 


On Jun 6, 2015, at 8:57 PM, Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

‎I'd like to replace my windex with a new one, but don't want to drop the mast 
to do it.

On larger boats we send someone up the mast to retrieve halyards etc, but has 
anyone done this on a 30-1?

I wonder if 200lbs at the top to install a new windex is too much of a risk of 
damage or injury. Has anyone lived to tell the story?

Cheers,

Jay

 

 

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Stus-List Autohelm problem

[OldSteveh via CnC-List]

My trusty under deck autohelm malfunctioned yesterday.
loud motor noise from the drive unit - no steering of boat.

I checked:
that all is clear around drive unit.
cylinder works back and forth ok when steering by wheel, as does small arm for 
position sensor.
head acts normally - ie no fault or error messages.

It seems clearly the drive unit because it is normally very quiet.
I am going to remove it today to see whats up.

Has anyone had similar situation with theirs? What was the fix?

Thanks

Steve Hood
C&C 34 Diamond Girl
Lions Head ON 
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Re: Stus-List Autohelm problem

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My hydraulic drive leaked enough fluid to no longer function.  Filled it
and everything was back to normal.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 7, 2015 9:46 AM, "OldSteveh via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> My trusty under deck autohelm malfunctioned yesterday.
> loud motor noise from the drive unit - no steering of boat.
>
> I checked:
> that all is clear around drive unit.
> cylinder works back and forth ok when steering by wheel, as does small arm
> for position sensor.
> head acts normally - ie no fault or error messages.
>
> It seems clearly the drive unit because it is normally very quiet.
> I am going to remove it today to see whats up.
>
> Has anyone had similar situation with theirs? What was the fix?
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve Hood
> C&C 34 Diamond Girl
> Lions Head ON
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Dutchman Mainsail Flaking system

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I don't have a Dutchman, but I do have the dog-bones.  You don't have to
run to the sail maker to try them out either.  2 stainless rings large
enough that they won't pass through the reefing/tack ring can be tied on
either side and connected through the reefing/tack ring with some old
halyard or similar.  I like using a double overhand knot at each ring for
this arrangement.  You'll have to play with the length but each reef dog
bone has to be at least the height of the track slides when reefed.  I like
mine a smig longer.  I like to hook the port dog bone ring and then attach
the cunningham on the stbd ring.  I can take out any "slack" in the dog
bone with the cunningham, then crank the halyard.  You may need to ease the
cunningham AS you hoist the halyard and then harden up the cunningham as a
final step.

After playing with this for a while and finding the right length a sail
maker can make you the "proper" done bones during the winter season.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

Our boat came with a Dutchman flaking system that the FO said never
worked.  I’ve rigged it and added a mast gate to keep the luff slides in
the luff track.  So far, this looks promising.



The main issue that I’m having is reefing the main.  It does not seem that
the system will work with the reef hooks.  The sail flakes over the hooks
and the luff slides twist.  The Dutchman literature recommends using
forward reef lines.  They suggest installing pad eyes and cleats in the
mast for the lines.



First, any feedback from those of you who have Dutchman’s?  If so, how do
you handle reefing?



Regards,

*Ron*

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com





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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I say, "Burn him!!!  He's not one of us!!!"
On Jun 7, 2015 9:04 AM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Dwight,
>
>
>
> A full confession
>
>
>
> I had a C&C 24, but three years ago we switched and bought the Catalina
> 270 (this is a newer version of the 27). My C&C was 1975, this boat is 20
> years younger; it is almost new (at 20-years of age). It has many things
> that especially my wife is happy about (open transom, twice as much room at
> the cockpit, real head (with door), stove, running water, inboard motor,
> wheel steering (no more hitting everyone's knees at the tack), no wood to
> varnish, not to mention that this is not a boat to put the rail in the
> water on the regular basis).
>
>
>
> We miss our C&C 24 on occasion. It was (is) such nice little boat - a
> human size one. I miss its simplicity (there was hardly anything to
> maintain) and sturdiness (you can't kill it even with an axe). We had it
> for 7 years.
>
>
>
> The good thing is that the problems (challenges) are more or less the
> same, regardless of the boat one has. The inboard motor is diesel (Perkins,
> but 90% of the issues are the same between Perkins, Universal or Yanmar);
> the pedestal is Edson, the electrical system is more or less the same, the
> running water - the same, the head is Jabsco. The specifics are different,
> but all these boats are different, even if they are the same model.
>
>
>
> I hope after this confession I won't be banned from this list
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> 1994 Catalina C270, "Legato"
>
> Ottawa
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *dwight
> veinot via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June-07-15 07:29
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* dwight veinot
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> Did you change boats? thought you had a C&C 24...is that a Catalina 27 you
> have now
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 10:19 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Funny, but it works the other way around. PYI collar is $25 (their
> website) and similar collar from McMaster-Carr is $32 (both for 1" shaft).
> I am not surprised that they cost as much as this is a solid piece of 316
> SS.
>
>
>
> Btw. I don't have any interest in the company (other than I have the shaft
> seal and the collar installed).
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> 1994 C270 Legato
>
> Ottawa
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Peter
> Fell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June-06-15 12:43
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Peter Fell
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> Well looks like PSS finally listened to Compass Marine:
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal
>
>
>
> The point being I expect the shaft collar he uses is orders of magnitude
> cheaper than the one PSS supplies.
>
>
>
> I would consider relying on zincs and retention rings  and just the
> worn key ... to secure the shaft together to be a temporary measure only.
> You know it’s going to shear at the worst possible moment!
>
>
>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
>
>
>
> *From:* Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent:* Friday, June 05, 2015 7:46 PM
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic 
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> You can always put a retention ring (
> http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=src ) on the inside (between the
> coupling and the packing gland). Much better than the zinc.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Brad Crawford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June-05-15 14:48
> *To:* 'Brent Driedger'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brad Crawford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> Yes I have the same feelings.  I also have zincs on the shaft in front of
> the strut, I guess it eases the feeling of losing the shaft, provided the
> zinc stays put?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Brad
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Brent Driedger [mailto:bren...@highspeedcrow.ca
> ]
> *Sent:* Friday, June 5, 2015 11:35 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brad Crawford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> I have been dealing with exactly that issue since I bought my boat 7 years
> ago. It hasn't been an issue and as a backup I have a zinc anode on the
> shaft about 3/8" from the packing nut just in case it lets loose. I'm sure
> the keyway is wearing out as a result but I haven't noticed any increase in
> play. It's just on my mind as one of those " not quite right" things
>
>
>
> Brent
>
> 27-5
>
> Lake Winnipeg
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:16 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back
> in and the boat

Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Been there, done that. Bowline, two halyards, good chair. I am over 200 and 
have been up many times - 30-1 has stout mast.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Dennis C. 
  Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2015 9:23 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?


  Jay,


  I regularly do mast work.  Your 30 shouldn't be any problem. Just be safe.  
Use a good chair. Use a bowline knot.  Don't use a snap shackle. Use a second 
halyard as a safety. 


  Dennis C.
  Touché 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA. 

  Sent from my iPhone

  On Jun 6, 2015, at 7:57 PM, "Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List" 
 wrote:


‎I'd like to replace my windex with a new one, but don't want to drop the 
mast to do it.
On larger boats we send someone up the mast to retrieve halyards etc, but 
has anyone done this on a 30-1?
I wonder if 200lbs at the top to install a new windex is too much of a risk 
of damage or injury. Has anyone lived to tell the story?
Cheers,
Jay




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--


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Stus-List C&C 30-1

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Jay, I am 6 feet tall 215# and have been up to the top of a 30-1. No problem. I 
use a climbing harness rather than a bosun's chair. Same price if you don't own 
either, but the harness is 10x more comfortable and has no cotton or canvas to 
get wet and rot. Bowline or double figure of 8 knot and a safety line 
(halyard). Use a messenger line to a bucket for tools and don't forget a 
camera, it's a beautiful perspective (straight down). They say it's the sudden 
stop you have to worry about not the distance you fall, make sure you have 
competence on the winch(s). Have fun!
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
37+

Sent from my mobile device.
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Huh!  I stand corrected.



From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2015 6:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

Funny, but it works the other way around. PYI collar is $25 (their website) and 
similar collar from McMaster-Carr is $32 (both for 1" shaft). I am not 
surprised that they cost as much as this is a solid piece of 316 SS.

 

Btw. I don't have any interest in the company (other than I have the shaft seal 
and the collar installed).

 

Marek

 

1994 C270 Legato 

Ottawa

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-06-15 12:43
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

Well looks like PSS finally listened to Compass Marine: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal

 

The point being I expect the shaft collar he uses is orders of magnitude 
cheaper than the one PSS supplies.

 

I would consider relying on zincs and retention rings  and just the worn 
key ... to secure the shaft together to be a temporary measure only. You know 
it’s going to shear at the worst possible moment!

 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

 

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 

Sent: Friday, June 05, 2015 7:46 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Marek Dziedzic 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

You can always put a retention ring 
(http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=src ) on the inside (between the 
coupling and the packing gland). Much better than the zinc.

 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brad 
Crawford via CnC-List
Sent: June-05-15 14:48
To: 'Brent Driedger'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

Yes I have the same feelings.  I also have zincs on the shaft in front of the 
strut, I guess it eases the feeling of losing the shaft, provided the zinc 
stays put?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad 

 

 

 

From: Brent Driedger [mailto:bren...@highspeedcrow.ca] 
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2015 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

 

I have been dealing with exactly that issue since I bought my boat 7 years ago. 
It hasn't been an issue and as a backup I have a zinc anode on the shaft about 
3/8" from the packing nut just in case it lets loose. I'm sure the keyway is 
wearing out as a result but I haven't noticed any increase in play. It's just 
on my mind as one of those " not quite right" things

 

Brent

27-5

Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:16 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back in 
and the boat back together discovered that the propeller shaft coupling is a 
little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8” of rotational movement on the shaft, like 
possibly the keyway is worn?.  Have tried tightening the set screws, which 
secures the coupling but eventually they work loose and again there is movement 
of the coupling on the shaft.  It’s been recommended that I have the boat 
hauled,  the coupling removed,  the shaft pulled out and provided the shaft is 
ok, a new coupling fitted and faced to the shaft, and then reinstalled for a 
final alignment.  

   

  My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with a loose 
coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned about?

   

  Thanks,

   

  Brad Crawford

  CnC 36

  Seattle

   

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Re: Stus-List sail question

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Two years ago I had to purchase a new jib as the old roller-furling #2 Norlam 
sail finally gave up after 20 years of continuous use. I decided to buy new as 
nothing used appealed to me. I also decided to buy a 110% #3. It cost me 3K 
from North and turned out to be an excellent decision. That sail provided 
enough power for the boat for whatever sailing I wished to do with little 
apparent loss of speed. The biggest advantage was the comparative ease of 
tacking and trimming as the foretriangle on a LF38 is large and requires a lot 
of winch labour. 

My .02 (Canadian)

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC

Boatless!


On Jun 4, 2015, at 08:20, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
wrote:

Thanks for all the info so far.
Racing is not an issue for this sail. Neither is real light air, I can motor, 
use the spinnaker, or drag out one of my 170 genoas. I have a Mylar and light 
Dacron 170 that both have hardly been used.
I am thinking smaller instead of bigger because when the wind is really kicking 
I want to roll in to around 100% and still have a good shape.
I have looked for used sails for years now and kind of given up on that. Unless 
the boat sinks, no one is giving up a good furling jib. If you want a racing 
sail or an old hank-on sail, plenty of those around. It looks like I will need 
to go new for this.
 
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com 
 
Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Marek: Stu, the proprietor of Stu’s List, doesn’t own a C&C any more.  I guess 
since we let him stay, we can let you stay too…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 7, 2015, at 8:03 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I hope after this confession I won't be banned from this list

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Re: Stus-List Autohelm problem

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Steve — do you have a linear electric drive?  If so, it sounds like the gearing 
has finally worn out.  You can replace with another linear Type 1 drive; or if 
your course computer will handle the current, replace with a hydraulic drive 
like the Octopus drive.  Feel free to contact me off-list to discuss further.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 7, 2015, at 8:45 AM, OldSteveh via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My trusty under deck autohelm malfunctioned yesterday.
> loud motor noise from the drive unit - no steering of boat.
> 
> I checked:
> that all is clear around drive unit.
> cylinder works back and forth ok when steering by wheel, as does small arm 
> for position sensor.
> head acts normally - ie no fault or error messages.
> 
> It seems clearly the drive unit because it is normally very quiet.
> I am going to remove it today to see whats up.
> 
> Has anyone had similar situation with theirs? What was the fix?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve Hood
> C&C 34 Diamond Girl
> Lions Head ON 

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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[svpegasus38]

I like the idea of a good old fashioned keel hauling!!
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--From: Josh Muckley via CnC-ListDate: Sun, Jun 7, 
2015 08:42To: C&C List;Cc: Josh Muckley;Subject:Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft 
Coupling questionI say, "Burn him!!!  He's not one of us!!!"On Jun 7, 2015 9:04 
AM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List"  wrote:
Dwight, A full confession I had a C&C 24, but three years ago we switched 
and bought the Catalina 270 (this is a newer version of the 27). My C&C was 
1975, this boat is 20 years younger; it is almost new (at 20-years of age). It 
has many things that especially my wife is happy about (open transom, twice as 
much room at the cockpit, real head (with door), stove, running water, inboard 
motor, wheel steering (no more hitting everyone's knees at the tack), no wood 
to varnish, not to mention that this is not a boat to put the rail in the water 
on the regular basis). We miss our C&C 24 on occasion. It was (is) such nice 
little boat - a human size one. I miss its simplicity (there was hardly 
anything to maintain) and sturdiness (you can't kill it even with an axe). We 
had it for 7 years.  The good thing is that the problems (challenges) are more 
or less the same, regardless of the boat one has. The inboard motor is diesel 
(Perkins, but 90% of the issues are the same between Perkins, Universal or 
Yanmar); the pedestal is Edson, the electrical system is more or less the same, 
the running water - the same, the head is Jabsco. The specifics are different, 
but all these boats are different, even if they are the same model. I hope 
after this confession I won't be banned from this list Marek 1994 Catalina 
C270, "Legato"Ottawa From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of dwight veinot via CnC-List
Sent: June-07-15 07:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question MarekDid you change 
boats? thought you had a C&C 24...is that a Catalina 27 you have now
Dwight VeinotC&C 35 MKII, AliannaHead of St. Margaret's Bay, 
nsd.ve...@bellaliant.net  On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 10:19 PM, Marek Dziedzic via 
CnC-List  wrote:Funny, but it works the other way 
around. PYI collar is $25 (their website) and similar collar from McMaster-Carr 
is $32 (both for 1" shaft). I am not surprised that they cost as much as this 
is a solid piece of 316 SS. Btw. I don't have any interest in the company 
(other than I have the shaft seal and the collar installed). Marek 1994 C270 
Legato Ottawa From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Peter Fell via CnC-List
Sent: June-06-15 12:43
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question Well looks like PSS 
finally listened to Compass Marine: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal The point being I expect the 
shaft collar he uses is orders of magnitude cheaper than the one PSS supplies. 
I would consider relying on zincs and retention rings  and just the worn 
key ... to secure the shaft together to be a temporary measure only. You know 
it’s going to shear at the worst possible moment! Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 05, 2015 7:46 
PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller 
Shaft Coupling question You can always put a retention ring 
(http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=src ) on the inside (between the 
coupling and the packing gland). Much better than the zinc. Marek From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brad Crawford via 
CnC-List
Sent: June-05-15 14:48
To: 'Brent Driedger'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question Yes I have the same 
feelings.  I also have zincs on the shaft in front of the strut, I guess it 
eases the feeling of losing the shaft, provided the zinc stays put? Thanks, 
Brad    From: Brent Driedger [mailto:bren...@highspeedcrow.ca] 
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2015 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question I have been dealing 
with exactly that issue since I bought my boat 7 years ago. It hasn't been an 
issue and as a backup I have a zinc anode on the shaft about 3/8" from the 
packing nut just in case it lets loose. I'm sure the keyway is wearing out as a 
result but I haven't noticed any increase in play. It's just on my mind as one 
of those " not quite right" things Brent27-5Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 5, 2015, at 1:16 PM, Brad Crawford via CnC-List  
wrote:I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back 
in and the boat back together discovered that the propeller shaft coupling is a 
little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8” of rotational movement on the shaft, like 
possibly the keyway is worn?.  Have tried tighten

Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Not necessarily.  My buddy and I alternate. Grind the chair up 6 feet or so 
then take the slack out of the safety. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 7, 2015, at 6:07 AM, "Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> ‎Thanks guys.  
> 2 lines for safety also means 2 guys on the winches to make life easier going 
> up...
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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Stus-List Spreader Boot Size C&C 32

[Arnold Griesel via CnC-List]

I have simple question.  I need to know the spreader boot size on a 1981 C&C 32 
#109?  This would save me a trip up the mast to take measurements.   

Both of the old ones are gone, "Ace" yard man after a move.

Thanks, Arnold {:-)     


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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would thoroughly appreciate this until my last day (or the last day I have a 
boat (any boat).
Does this count that I regularly say something nice about the C&Cs any time I 
have a chance?
Marek
Sent from my Samsung device over Bell's LTE network.

 Original message 
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Date: 2015-06-07  13:11  (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

Marek: Stu, the proprietor of Stu’s List, doesn’t own a C&C any more.  I guess 
since we let him stay, we can let you stay too…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 7, 2015, at 8:03 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
> I hope after this confession I won't be banned from this list

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Re: Stus-List Dutchman Mainsail Flaking system

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

+1 on that. This is how my idea started. When I knew how long they had to be, I 
got them made and sawn into the sail.
I started with a ring and a piece of webbing
Marek(The traitor )C270 Legato


Sent from my Samsung device over Bell's LTE network.

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Date: 2015-06-07  11:39  (GMT-05:00)
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dutchman Mainsail Flaking system

I don't have a Dutchman, but I do have the dog-bones.  You don't have to
run to the sail maker to try them out either.  2 stainless rings large
enough that they won't pass through the reefing/tack ring can be tied on
either side and connected through the reefing/tack ring with some old
halyard or similar.  I like using a double overhand knot at each ring for
this arrangement.  You'll have to play with the length but each reef dog
bone has to be at least the height of the track slides when reefed.  I like
mine a smig longer.  I like to hook the port dog bone ring and then attach
the cunningham on the stbd ring.  I can take out any "slack" in the dog
bone with the cunningham, then crank the halyard.  You may need to ease the
cunningham AS you hoist the halyard and then harden up the cunningham as a
final step.

After playing with this for a while and finding the right length a sail
maker can make you the "proper" done bones during the winter season.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

Our boat came with a Dutchman flaking system that the FO said never
worked.  I’ve rigged it and added a mast gate to keep the luff slides in
the luff track.  So far, this looks promising.



The main issue that I’m having is reefing the main.  It does not seem that
the system will work with the reef hooks.  The sail flakes over the hooks
and the luff slides twist.  The Dutchman literature recommends using
forward reef lines.  They suggest installing pad eyes and cleats in the
mast for the lines.



First, any feedback from those of you who have Dutchman’s?  If so, how do
you handle reefing?



Regards,

*Ron*

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com





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Re: Stus-List 37 and 34 +/XL/R cabin-side "plates"

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I think the original nameplates on our boats were fiberglass cutouts made by 
C&C and glued on. I did find plastic raised letters in an auto store that would 
look nice glued in place into the OEM base, but I just never got around to 
installing them. cost was $10 or $15. The letters I found are black on silver 
grey, but could be painted a different color. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bell-Custom-Personalized-License-Plate-Frame-Tag-Holder-Customized-Text-Vanity-/391054753780?hash=item5b0cadfff4&vxp=mtr
 

- Original Message -

From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"  
To: "C&C List"  
Cc: "Josh Muckley"  
Sent: Sunday, June 7, 2015 12:36:26 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37 and 34 +/XL/R cabin-side "plates" 



I too am looking for these metal plaques. I've been canvasing the internet for 
a manufacture. Unfortunately it looks like cheap and easy are out of the 
question. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
On Jun 6, 2015 10:23 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



Listers, 

I think this was covered a couple of years ago, but can't find it. 

I'm looking to replace the broken plates that are on the sides of the cabin. 
They are long, rectangular, with curved corners and they had a raised "C&C 37+" 
on it. 

I seem to remember someone getting a steel version somewhere. 

If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. 


All the best, 

Edd 

--- 
Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise 
NCC-1701-B 
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY 
www.StarshipSailing.com 
--- 
914.332.4400 | Office 
914.774.9767 | Mobile 
--- 
Sent via iPhone 6 
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize 

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Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I'm in the loving the mountain gear approach so I don't have to rely on help. A 
quality ascender, a Grigri, a sits harness, a new line to hoist up the mast on 
two halyards and its upsy-daisy. There's great technique on YouTube to learn. 

Cheers
Brent
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 7, 2015, at 8:21 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Any kind of ladder does not solve the safety issue. You need a halyard (and a 
> person to man it) to keep you from falling. However, any kind of ladder would 
> help the winchperson (there is hardly any load on the halyard). I use a 
> string of climbing aiders (e.g. 
> http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/big-wall-climbing/alpine-aiders-BD390050ALL1.html).
>  With that, even my wife can help me with getting to the top. Just to be safe 
> I use an ascender on a second halyard (always two points protection, when 
> working aloft).
> 
>  
> 
> Marek
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Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Marek, keep talkin here...I appreciate your informed comments on boats and
boating, thanks...hope you have much happy sailing on your
Catalina...sounds like your wife had some good thoughts

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sun, Jun 7, 2015 at 10:03 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dwight,
>
>
>
> A full confession
>
>
>
> I had a C&C 24, but three years ago we switched and bought the Catalina
> 270 (this is a newer version of the 27). My C&C was 1975, this boat is 20
> years younger; it is almost new (at 20-years of age). It has many things
> that especially my wife is happy about (open transom, twice as much room at
> the cockpit, real head (with door), stove, running water, inboard motor,
> wheel steering (no more hitting everyone's knees at the tack), no wood to
> varnish, not to mention that this is not a boat to put the rail in the
> water on the regular basis).
>
>
>
> We miss our C&C 24 on occasion. It was (is) such nice little boat - a
> human size one. I miss its simplicity (there was hardly anything to
> maintain) and sturdiness (you can't kill it even with an axe). We had it
> for 7 years.
>
>
>
> The good thing is that the problems (challenges) are more or less the
> same, regardless of the boat one has. The inboard motor is diesel (Perkins,
> but 90% of the issues are the same between Perkins, Universal or Yanmar);
> the pedestal is Edson, the electrical system is more or less the same, the
> running water - the same, the head is Jabsco. The specifics are different,
> but all these boats are different, even if they are the same model.
>
>
>
> I hope after this confession I won't be banned from this list
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> 1994 Catalina C270, "Legato"
>
> Ottawa
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *dwight
> veinot via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June-07-15 07:29
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* dwight veinot
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> Did you change boats? thought you had a C&C 24...is that a Catalina 27 you
> have now
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 10:19 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Funny, but it works the other way around. PYI collar is $25 (their
> website) and similar collar from McMaster-Carr is $32 (both for 1" shaft).
> I am not surprised that they cost as much as this is a solid piece of 316
> SS.
>
>
>
> Btw. I don't have any interest in the company (other than I have the shaft
> seal and the collar installed).
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> 1994 C270 Legato
>
> Ottawa
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Peter
> Fell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June-06-15 12:43
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Peter Fell
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> Well looks like PSS finally listened to Compass Marine:
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal
>
>
>
> The point being I expect the shaft collar he uses is orders of magnitude
> cheaper than the one PSS supplies.
>
>
>
> I would consider relying on zincs and retention rings  and just the
> worn key ... to secure the shaft together to be a temporary measure only.
> You know it’s going to shear at the worst possible moment!
>
>
>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
>
>
>
> *From:* Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent:* Friday, June 05, 2015 7:46 PM
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic 
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> You can always put a retention ring (
> http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=src ) on the inside (between the
> coupling and the packing gland). Much better than the zinc.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Brad Crawford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June-05-15 14:48
> *To:* 'Brent Driedger'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brad Crawford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> Yes I have the same feelings.  I also have zincs on the shaft in front of
> the strut, I guess it eases the feeling of losing the shaft, provided the
> zinc stays put?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Brad
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Brent Driedger [mailto:bren...@highspeedcrow.ca
> ]
> *Sent:* Friday, June 5, 2015 11:35 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Brad Crawford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller Shaft Coupling question
>
>
>
> I have been dealing with exactly that issue since I bought my boat 7 years
> ago. It hasn't been an issue and as a backup I have a zinc anode on the
> shaft about 3/8" from the packing nut just in case it lets loose. I'm sure
> the keyway is wearing out as a result but I haven't noticed any increase in
> play. It's just on my mind as one of those " not qu

Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I also have used a mast mate for the last 5 years, and go up to adjust or fix 
things aloft several times a year, preferably when Cat’s Paw is afloat, not on 
jack stands. But for safety, I wear a climbing harness attached to a spinnaker 
halyard which someone on deck keeps on a winch to take up slack.  All the 
lifting is done by me climbing the ladder, but if I should slip, there is a 
safety.  Also, while at the top, the halyard is tied off so I can rest in the 
climbing harness, making it easier (and safer) to work.  Never had any problems 
with this arrangement.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II

> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?
> I have what is called the mast mate, it's a ladder made of webbing that you 
> pull up the mast track , I climb my mast twice a year to install and remove 
> wind instruments before stepping and dropping the stick . You can usually 
> find an ad for the mast mate I'm the back of most sailing magazines , 
> Sent from Joe Bognar
> 

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Stus-List C&C30-1 climb to top of mast?

[Robert Gallagher via CnC-List]

Been up the mast of my previous boat (30MKI) and lived to tell the tale.
That mast and rigging is built to twice the specs of some other production
30 footers.  Granted, your rigging should be in good shape, tie all the
right knots, have a plan B, and some good hands on both the primary and
secondary lifting halyards.
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