Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

The first time I heard the phase about a smile it called the Catalina smile...


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
Date: 04/02/2015  11:51 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint 
 
I've said this before and I'll say it again...  It's only called the C$C 
smile because C&C made so many boats, most of which are still active and 
sailing.  Many boats with swept fin keels develop a crack on the leading 
edge for a few reasons.  Hitting something.  Storage with the weight on 
the trailing edge of the keel that makes the entire keel turn into a 
lever weakening the sealant around the leading bolts.  Etcetera.

Wal

Jake wrote:
>  The “C&C Smile” as it is known, often appears as the hull to keel 
> joint opens up. 



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Stus-List Recommend Rigger in Toronto

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Over a year ago the list recommended Rob from South Shore yachts. We had a
lot of back and forth and he finally came out and inspected the rig and
promised he'd send a report. Some more back and forth and the report never
came. I got in touch with him again this spring and more back and forth.
He's lost the report, etc.

I need someone else, someone that will show up and check my rig. Stick is
down, all shrouds have been disconnected, it's the perfect time to check it
out and fix anything that might be needed.

Any recommends?

Thanks,
Steve

Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Yep.  Wally is correct. Our former hinterhoeller Niagara 26 had same.  Dropped, 
cleaned rebedded with 5200. Our j27 had the crack along forward 1/3 of keel.  
Bedding compound was good.  After several years of repairing annually with west 
105 thickened and then west g-flex with always some crack at end of seasons I 
tried a different approach. Ended along the joint and used 6 oz cloth and west 
105 and then faired.  The next year was no crack.  This is a common solution.

Mike
Persistence 

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Wally Bryant via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: April 3, 2015 12:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint

I've said this before and I'll say it again...  It's only called the C$C
smile because C&C made so many boats, most of which are still active and
sailing.  Many boats with swept fin keels develop a crack on the leading
edge for a few reasons.  Hitting something.  Storage with the weight on
the trailing edge of the keel that makes the entire keel turn into a
lever weakening the sealant around the leading bolts.  Etcetera.

Wal

Jake wrote:
>  The “C&C Smile” as it is known, often appears as the hull to keel 
> joint opens up. 



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Re: Stus-List Recommend Rigger in Toronto

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Steve,

Surprised to hear about Rob, he has always done well for us. Here is another 
rigger – is an expert in Nonsuch, but does others as well : Mike Quill in St 
Catherine’s. http://www.mqyr.com/

Paul Fountain
Managing Director
SeaSource Inc.
Bookkeeping & IT Services.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 3, 2015 10:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Recommend Rigger in Toronto

Hi All,

Over a year ago the list recommended Rob from South Shore yachts. We had a lot 
of back and forth and he finally came out and inspected the rig and promised 
he'd send a report. Some more back and forth and the report never came. I got 
in touch with him again this spring and more back and forth. He's lost the 
report, etc.

I need someone else, someone that will show up and check my rig. Stick is down, 
all shrouds have been disconnected, it's the perfect time to check it out and 
fix anything that might be needed.

Any recommends?

Thanks,
Steve

Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Recommend Rigger in Toronto

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Reading back my email I realize it sounds pretty harsh, I rushed it and
really didn't intend to badmouth him. Rob came very highly recommended and
was courteous, people get busy, things happen. Last time I asked this
question everyone recommended him, I was inelegantly trying not to get the
same answer this time.

Thanks for the recommend Paul. Ideally I can find someone in Toronto, if
not I'll give him a try.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Apr 3, 2015 at 10:19 AM, Paul Fountain  wrote:

>  Steve,
>
>
>
> Surprised to hear about Rob, he has always done well for us. Here is
> another rigger – is an expert in Nonsuch, but does others as well : Mike
> Quill in St Catherine’s. http://www.mqyr.com/
>
>
>
> *Paul Fountain*
>
> *Managing Director*
>
> *SeaSource Inc.*
>
> *Bookkeeping & IT Services.*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan
> Plavsa via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, April 3, 2015 10:02 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Recommend Rigger in Toronto
>
>
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> Over a year ago the list recommended Rob from South Shore yachts. We had a
> lot of back and forth and he finally came out and inspected the rig and
> promised he'd send a report. Some more back and forth and the report never
> came. I got in touch with him again this spring and more back and forth.
> He's lost the report, etc.
>
>
>
> I need someone else, someone that will show up and check my rig. Stick is
> down, all shrouds have been disconnected, it's the perfect time to check it
> out and fix anything that might be needed.
>
>
>
> Any recommends?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> Suhana, C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

I had a Catalina for many years. they call it the Catalina smile :)

On Fri, Apr 3, 2015 at 10:08 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yep.  Wally is correct. Our former hinterhoeller Niagara 26 had same.
> Dropped, cleaned rebedded with 5200. Our j27 had the crack along forward
> 1/3 of keel.  Bedding compound was good.  After several years of repairing
> annually with west 105 thickened and then west g-flex with always some
> crack at end of seasons I tried a different approach. Ended along the joint
> and used 6 oz cloth and west 105 and then faired.  The next year was no
> crack.  This is a common solution.
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Wally Bryant
> via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: April 3, 2015 12:51 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Keel Joint
>
> I've said this before and I'll say it again...  It's only called the C$C
> smile because C&C made so many boats, most of which are still active and
> sailing.  Many boats with swept fin keels develop a crack on the leading
> edge for a few reasons.  Hitting something.  Storage with the weight on
> the trailing edge of the keel that makes the entire keel turn into a
> lever weakening the sealant around the leading bolts.  Etcetera.
>
> Wal
>
> Jake wrote:
> >  The “C&C Smile” as it is known, often appears as the hull to keel
> joint opens up. 
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Stus-List Lewmar 45 3 speed manual

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I need to service my winches, and have been reluctant to take apart my
Lewmar 45 3 speed non-tailing winches.  Does anyone have a manual for
them?  Closest thing I have found was on L-36.com for a 66 3 speed ST.

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Lewmar 45 3 speed manual

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Joel,

What year are they?  Here's a manual for some later model 3 speed Lewmars.

<
http://www.lewmar.com/%5Cassets%5Cimg%5Cdataset%5CManual-Racing%20Winch%20Manual_iss.D.pdf
>

In you can't find one online, I got an exploded view for a 3 speed on a
Tartan 33R from the nice folks at Florida Rigging and Hydraulic.  Don't
know what model Lewmar but it was definitely a 3 speed.  It was a bit more
complex than a 2 speed.

If you can't find a manual, take lots of pictures going in.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Apr 3, 2015 at 1:55 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I need to service my winches, and have been reluctant to take apart my
> Lewmar 45 3 speed non-tailing winches.  Does anyone have a manual for
> them?  Closest thing I have found was on L-36.com for a 66 3 speed ST.
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Lewmar 45 3 speed manual

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dennis.

Beats me!  Mid 80s?  Thanks.
Luckily I have a pair, so when I get lost I can pull the drum off the
second one

On Friday, April 3, 2015, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Joel,
>
> What year are they?  Here's a manual for some later model 3 speed Lewmars.
>
> <
> http://www.lewmar.com/%5Cassets%5Cimg%5Cdataset%5CManual-Racing%20Winch%20Manual_iss.D.pdf
> >
>
> In you can't find one online, I got an exploded view for a 3 speed on a
> Tartan 33R from the nice folks at Florida Rigging and Hydraulic.  Don't
> know what model Lewmar but it was definitely a 3 speed.  It was a bit more
> complex than a 2 speed.
>
> If you can't find a manual, take lots of pictures going in.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Fri, Apr 3, 2015 at 1:55 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> I need to service my winches, and have been reluctant to take apart my
>> Lewmar 45 3 speed non-tailing winches.  Does anyone have a manual for
>> them?  Closest thing I have found was on L-36.com for a 66 3 speed ST.
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Introduction and a question

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Hi David. I'm the guy who recommended you come here. Hopefully someone
chimes in soon. I think Fred Hazzard has a 44.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 April 2015 at 15:56, David Lenehan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi, I'm David.  I live in Melbourne Australia and I've got lots of
> blue-water experience in both racing and cruising.  Sadly I am currently
> between boats having lived in Kazakhstan for the past few years.  But I'm
> now searching for a boat I hope will be my last.  At this moment my
> preference is for the C&C 44.  Everything I've managed to collect lavishes
> praise on this boat from the quality of the construction to the superb and
> well thought through design and the sparkling performance.
>
> That's the gloss.  There are several currently on the market spread around
> through Eastern Canada, the Caribbean and San Diego.  None in Australia but
> I'll enjoy bringing her home once I find the one for me.
>
> What I really need to know is what to look for when I start stepping
> aboard the boats that are available.  I'd appreciate comments from those of
> you with experience both in the 44 and with generic issues with C&C boats
> in general.  Any sensible comments and advice are welcome.
>
> Kind regards
> David
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Introduction and a question

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hello David,

Sorry, I can't tell you much about the C&C 44 but I will say you may also
want to have a look at the C&C 37/40+ or 37/40 XL (bot not the R version,
its a different animal).  These are pretty much the C&C 44 without the 2nd
head forward.  We've had one for 5 years now and are very pleased with it.
This boat has a LOA of 39' 6", LOD of 37' 7", LWL of 32' and a beam of 12'
7".  It comes in several different keel versions depending on your
tolerance for draft ranging from 4' 11" to 8' 2":

Keel/Centreboard version - draft of 4' 11', board up
Wing Keel version - draft of 5' 11"
Fin Keel (on the 37/40+) -draft of 7' 3"
Fin Keel (on the 37/40XL) -draft of 8' 2"


These boats were built, marketed and sold from 1988 to 1992 as the C&C
37/40+ & XL.  In 1993 & '94 it was built, marketed and sold as the C&C 40+
& XL.

Welcome aboard!  You'll like it here.

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - C&C 37/40XL
Cape Breton Island
Nova Scotia, Canada

On 3 April 2015 at 17:41, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi David. I'm the guy who recommended you come here. Hopefully someone
> chimes in soon. I think Fred Hazzard has a 44.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 2 April 2015 at 15:56, David Lenehan via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi, I'm David.  I live in Melbourne Australia and I've got lots of
>> blue-water experience in both racing and cruising.  Sadly I am currently
>> between boats having lived in Kazakhstan for the past few years.  But I'm
>> now searching for a boat I hope will be my last.  At this moment my
>> preference is for the C&C 44.  Everything I've managed to collect lavishes
>> praise on this boat from the quality of the construction to the superb and
>> well thought through design and the sparkling performance.
>>
>> That's the gloss.  There are several currently on the market spread
>> around through Eastern Canada, the Caribbean and San Diego.  None in
>> Australia but I'll enjoy bringing her home once I find the one for me.
>>
>> What I really need to know is what to look for when I start stepping
>> aboard the boats that are available.  I'd appreciate comments from those of
>> you with experience both in the 44 and with generic issues with C&C boats
>> in general.  Any sensible comments and advice are welcome.
>>
>> Kind regards
>> David
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I agree with your diagnosis.  It's gotta be reversed polarity...of the
sense and gnd.  Fundamentally the fuel gages are just voltage meters.  They
respond proportionally to the voltage drop across the variable resistance
in the sender.  I would disconnect the leads and use an ohm meter to
measure and validate the resistance of the senders.  Switching the polarity
of the sense and gnd monetarily probably won't break anything.  Before
doing so validate that your wiring looks like the attached picture.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
I'm sharing an electrical problem right now in the hope that someone here
on this list has had a similar problem and solved it...

Over the winter I added an auxiliary 19-gallon diesel tank under the nav
station seat.  I decided to buy 2 new fuel gauges, one for the new
auxiliary fuel tank and the other a replacement of a 30-year old fuel gauge
for the primary diesel tank.  Both (Sierra-brand) gauges are mounted in the
cockpit coaming on the port side with nice labels.

My 30-year old fuel gauge was working fine but it was mounted in the engine
panel and didn't match the color and style of the other gauges--this is
primarily why I replaced it.

I made a nice teak pad (located inside near the gauges) on which I mounted
terminals and bus bars to properly organize the new wiring for all the
gauges.  I completely wired up the new fuel gauges in accordance with the
instructions.  (I rewired so that I could get rid of a lot of old un-tinned
wire.)

When I turned on the ignition to check the gauges function, the needles on
both gauges moved to below empty.  This usually means an open circuit on
the sender side. I've thoroughly checked all the wiring and the gauges and
I can't find any problem with the wiring or the gauges.

I've checked the resistance across the sender on the new auxiliary tank and
it measures 230 ohms--since that tank is empty, the resistance sounds about
right.  The primary tank's sender is more difficult to access, so I
couldn't measure it.

Last night, I checked the tank's grounding by running some extra temporary
ground wires--no difference.

What's weird is that the problem is affecting both gauges the same way.
Any ideas as to what the problem may be?  Its almost like the polarity of
the power input is reversed, but it isn't.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

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Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Maybe you can get these to fit!

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=301557838185&alt=web

Josh
Tom,

Depending on the height, I'm pretty sure I can get 4 Trojan T-105s and one
Trojan Group 24 under the starboard settee. I've had three very large 12Vs
in there before, an I think there's enough space.

4 t-105s in a 12V configuration (6v at 225aH each) should give me 12v at
450aH.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On Mar 27, 2015, at 12:51 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 Edd

What 6v batteries are you planning on using, with will be the total AH, and
where will you house them.  I'll be damned if I can find enough space to
add two more batteries on Alera, Enterprise's sistership.

thx

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

t 08:15 AM 3/27/2015, you wrote:


On Mar 26, 2015, at 14:30, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
wrote:

Listers,

Thanks for all of the advice regarding rewiring the power systems on the
Enterprise.

Here is link to my draft setup:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/EnterpriseWiring-Draft.pdf

Very crude I know and probably could be considered a mess by any respectful
wiring diagram standards. Still, I would appreciate listers input or just
to say ?Edd, you got it all wrong. You idiot. Get off our C&C List, you
amateur hack.?

Thanks again. This list is the most valuable part of owning my C&C.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


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Re: Stus-List Introduction and a question

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Hi David,

I'm just back from a road trip from Tucson to Portland.

What you said about the 44's is true.   Good racing/cruising boat.  Even
though a IOR style boat it is very stable with deep keel and rudder.

Things I encountered when buying Fury are:

The mast had been out of the boat and the rod rigging examined reheaded or
replaced.

The chain plates are heavy aluminum plate.  In spite of that, some of the
holes were elongated and I had them replaced. It also eliminated possible
leaks where they went thru the deck.

I also put new threaded bolts for the turn buckles.

I had the heat exchanger overhauled and the engine gone thru.

I replaced the water pump impellor.  7 years later before a trip to Mexico
I again replaced it. The old one looked ok.

Boats that have had lives in the hot sun typically leak.  On my trip from
LA to Portland we had to put tarps over us to sleep without getting wet.

One draw back of the boat is the exterior space to stow gear.  Because of
the queen size bed aft the seat lockers are limited to the smaller seat
lockers aft of the wheel.  The chain locker forward is large.

The galley with 3 burner stove, double sinks and refer and freezer make it
a joy to work in. Lots of space for food.

I strongly suggest getting a hard nose surveyor.  He will save you money in
the negotiations for the boat and tell you what is good and bad.

As you look at boats please feel free to ask questions.  You will find a
wealth of knowledge on this site.




Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
Portland, Or

The interiors of the boat evolved each year.  The European built boats had
quite a few interior difference from the US built boats.

On Fri, Apr 3, 2015 at 1:41 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi David. I'm the guy who recommended you come here. Hopefully someone
> chimes in soon. I think Fred Hazzard has a 44.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 2 April 2015 at 15:56, David Lenehan via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi, I'm David.  I live in Melbourne Australia and I've got lots of
>> blue-water experience in both racing and cruising.  Sadly I am currently
>> between boats having lived in Kazakhstan for the past few years.  But I'm
>> now searching for a boat I hope will be my last.  At this moment my
>> preference is for the C&C 44.  Everything I've managed to collect lavishes
>> praise on this boat from the quality of the construction to the superb and
>> well thought through design and the sparkling performance.
>>
>> That's the gloss.  There are several currently on the market spread
>> around through Eastern Canada, the Caribbean and San Diego.  None in
>> Australia but I'll enjoy bringing her home once I find the one for me.
>>
>> What I really need to know is what to look for when I start stepping
>> aboard the boats that are available.  I'd appreciate comments from those of
>> you with experience both in the 44 and with generic issues with C&C boats
>> in general.  Any sensible comments and advice are welcome.
>>
>> Kind regards
>> David
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
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Stus-List Main Halyard Length

[schiller via CnC-List]

Corsair still has the original wire main halyard (and the original 
roller reefing boom).  We have upgraded the main traveller and the end 
boom sheeting system and now we are thinking of bringing the main 
halyard back to the cabin top winch that we used for the main sheet.  
Question is:  how long of a halyard will I need?  Cajun Ropes only lists 
a Mark III for the 35 at 110 feet long.  Is that long enough?


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"

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Re: Stus-List Main Halyard Length

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Yes I would say so.

C&C 35 Mk.1
I = 44'
P = 38'
mast to cabintop winch = 10'
8' extra to wrap around winch and to tail.

Total 100'

...so 110' is more than enough, in fact that should reach right to the
transom (about 18' back from the mast).

http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1800

Ken H.

On 3 April 2015 at 21:34, schiller via CnC-List 
wrote:

>  Corsair still has the original wire main halyard (and the original
> roller reefing boom).  We have upgraded the main traveller and the end boom
> sheeting system and now we are thinking of bringing the main halyard back
> to the cabin top winch that we used for the main sheet.  Question is:  how
> long of a halyard will I need?  Cajun Ropes only lists a Mark III for the
> 35 at 110 feet long.  Is that long enough?
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C&C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
>
>
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Main Halyard Length

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Neil,

I think the last jib halyard I bought was 115 or 118 feet.  That should be
close for the main halyard, especially if you clip it to the toe rail or
the base of the mast.  I buy extra length so I can end for end the line if
I need to.  I've found that more often than not, if a halyard gets damaged,
it's in the 2-3 feet near the shackle.  Since the other end hasn't been
loaded, I can cut the damaged end off, splice an eye with the shackle in
the other end and not have to buy a whole new halyard.

IMHO, buying an extra 10 feet of halyard is cheap insurance against having
to buy a whole new halyard.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Apr 3, 2015 at 7:34 PM, schiller via CnC-List  wrote:

>  Corsair still has the original wire main halyard (and the original
> roller reefing boom).  We have upgraded the main traveller and the end boom
> sheeting system and now we are thinking of bringing the main halyard back
> to the cabin top winch that we used for the main sheet.  Question is:  how
> long of a halyard will I need?  Cajun Ropes only lists a Mark III for the
> 35 at 110 feet long.  Is that long enough?
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C&C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
>
>
> ___
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Main Halyard Length

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Up the mast and down to the deck (P+I) plus distance back to the winch plus 
about 8 feet would be the minimum. Dennis’s suggestion of an extra length to 
let you end for end the halyard makes a lot of sense, too. 

 

My main halyard is actually a bit longer yet. It is long enough to go from 
having the shackle in the water, up to the end of the boom, up to the top of 
the mast, back down, back to the winch, plus an extra 10 feet. The idea is 
something I picked up in a safety course some time ago. I can shackle a snatch 
block at the end of the boom, run the halyard through it, and use the halyard 
for getting a MOB up out of the water and onto the deck or into the cockpit. 

 

The drawback is that there is quite a bit of tail aft of the winch when the 
sail is up. 

 

In order to avoid clutter, I installed a large mesh sail bag on the aft cabin 
bulkhead outboard of the instruments to port and starboard of the companionway. 
That gives me storage space for the tails of 2 genoa and 2 spin halyards, the 
vang, the Cunningham, and the main halyard. They also make passable back 
cushions when lounging in the cockpit after sailing.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2015 9:13 PM
To: schiller; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Main Halyard Length

 

Neil,

I buy extra length so I can end for end the line if I need to.  I've found that 
more often than not, if a halyard gets damaged, it's in the 2-3 feet near the 
shackle.  Since the other end hasn't been loaded, I can cut the damaged end 
off, splice an eye with the shackle in the other end and not have to buy a 
whole new halyard.  

IMHO, buying an extra 10 feet of halyard is cheap insurance against having to 
buy a whole new halyard.  

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

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