Stus-List Seasons' Greetings

[Stu via CnC-List]

Hello C&C Listers!

Season's Greetings!

May this Winter be filled with festivities, joyous hymns and warm smiles.

Let the coming year find peace, prosperity, health and harmony within your 
family,
friends and all your closest ones.

Stu ‘n’ Gladys

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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I used to do my own boat, but then a diver moved in two slips down and would do 
the boat for about $40. Well worth it. Then he retired and I went back to doing 
it myself since the regular guy is about $160 or so. I am ordering a long hose 
for next year because getting the whole BC and weight rig n is a PITA for 
bottom cleaning.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

COQUINA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 10:03 PM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Diving your own boat

 

I also clean Touché's bottom myself. I have a 50 hose and a Conshelf XIV 
regulator I bought off eBay.  The hose is from browniesmarinegroup.com 
 .  They also sell compressors but they're a 
wee bit pricey. 

 

I just leave the tank on the pier and dive. I have a 5/3 wetsuit and weight 
belt. Helps to have a shallow slip so I can stand on the bottom and press up. 

 

You might cruise eBay for a used dive or tank filling compressor. You don't 
need to be certified to fill your own tanks. 

 

Dennis C.

Touché 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone


On Dec 22, 2014, at 6:25 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Happy holidays to all!

 

Jack, how do you clean your hull? Do you do it yourself or hire it out. I am 
considering getting dive certified so I can get a set of tanks and air. Even 
with all the gear (weights, wet suit, etc.) I think it would be a lot less 
expensive in the long run and as a bonus, I would be certified to dive. Up here 
in the northeast I don’t think I would need to do it as often as you unless I 
start racing. It would also be nice to change my prop shaft zincs once during 
the season and deal with other various issues that might require me to work on 
the exterior of the hull below the water line.

 

Burt

On the hard in Massachusetts

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 8:10 AM
To: jackbren...@bellsouth.net  ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

 

Hello all another milestone past with the days now getting longer!

 

All the best to all you guys and happy holidays (whichever you may be 
celebrating)

 

Danny

Boatless

Massachusetts

 



-- Original Message --
From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 19:02:03 -0500

Approximately 1,100 days TO haulout. (Every five years, with monthly hull 
cleanings in between.)

 

Jack Brennan

Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

 

From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List  

Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 6:49 PM

To: Rick Taillieu   ; mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

 

Sorry Rick 116 days 16 hours til Perception is launched ...

 

Count down started at haul out

Paul. :)

 


On Dec 21, 2014, at 5:52 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Same to you Russ.

 

Only 145 (ish) days until launch.

I know, somebody had to start the countdown.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: December-21-14 15:36
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

 


To all Listers & Lurkers,

Melody & I wish you the best of today, tonight and all through the winter. 

Many will know it is the Winter Solstice, occurring in North America between ~ 
3 - 6 PM local time. 

A time of the longest night and to make this year special we also have a New 
Moon so expect it to be the darkest night as well. 

We will celebrate with our usual fire in the backyard firepit... and maybe some 
hot rums. :)

Wish you could be here, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
 Nanaimo


  _  


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com  
Version: 2015.0.5577 / Virus Database: 4253/8781 - Release Date: 12/21/14

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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Put a checkmark for me in the column of 50’ hose with regulator and a tank 
sitting on the dock. Works well without all the hassle of a BCD. Although I 
can’t really “stand” on the bottom cleaning the bottom is not a terribly 
strenuous activity.

Saves much money from having a diver clean the bottom, especially if you race…

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Dec 22, 2014, at 10:03 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I also clean Touché's bottom myself. I have a 50 hose and a Conshelf XIV 
> regulator I bought off eBay.  The hose is from browniesmarinegroup.com 
> .  They also sell compressors but they're a 
> wee bit pricey. 
> 
> I just leave the tank on the pier and dive. I have a 5/3 wetsuit and weight 
> belt. Helps to have a shallow slip so I can stand on the bottom and press up. 
> 
> You might cruise eBay for a used dive or tank filling compressor. You don't 
> need to be certified to fill your own tanks. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Dec 22, 2014, at 6:25 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> Happy holidays to all!
>>  
>> Jack, how do you clean your hull? Do you do it yourself or hire it out. I am 
>> considering getting dive certified so I can get a set of tanks and air. Even 
>> with all the gear (weights, wet suit, etc.) I think it would be a lot less 
>> expensive in the long run and as a bonus, I would be certified to dive. Up 
>> here in the northeast I don’t think I would need to do it as often as you 
>> unless I start racing. It would also be nice to change my prop shaft zincs 
>> once during the season and deal with other various issues that might require 
>> me to work on the exterior of the hull below the water line.
>>  
>> Burt
>> On the hard in Massachusetts
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> ] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 8:10 AM
>> To: jackbren...@bellsouth.net ; 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice
>>  
>> Hello all another milestone past with the days now getting longer!
>>  
>> All the best to all you guys and happy holidays (whichever you may be 
>> celebrating)
>>  
>> Danny
>> Boatless
>> Massachusetts
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List > >
>> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice
>> Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 19:02:03 -0500
>> 
>> Approximately 1,100 days TO haulout. (Every five years, with monthly hull 
>> cleanings in between.)
>>  
>> Jack Brennan
>> Former C&C 25
>> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
>> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>>  
>> From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
>> Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 6:49 PM
>> To: Rick Taillieu  ; 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice
>>  
>> Sorry Rick 116 days 16 hours til Perception is launched ...
>>  
>> Count down started at haul out
>> 
>> Paul. :)
>>  
>> 
>> On Dec 21, 2014, at 5:52 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Same to you Russ.
>>  
>> Only 145 (ish) days until launch.
>> I know, somebody had to start the countdown.
>>  
>>  
>> Rick Taillieu
>> Nemesis
>> '75 C&C 25  #371
>> Shearwater Yacht Club
>> Halifax, NS.
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> ] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: December-21-14 15:36
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Subject: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice
>>  
>> 
>> To all Listers & Lurkers,
>> 
>> Melody & I wish you the best of today, tonight and all through the winter. 
>> 
>> Many will know it is the Winter Solstice, occurring in North America between 
>> ~ 3 - 6 PM local time. 
>> 
>> A time of the longest night and to make this year special we also have a New 
>> Moon so expect it to be the darkest night as well. 
>> 
>> We will celebrate with our usual fire in the backyard firepit... and maybe 
>> some hot rums. :)
>> 
>> Wish you could be here, Russ
>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>>  Nanaimo
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
>> Version: 2015.0.5577 / Virus Database: 4253/8781 - Release Date: 12/21/14
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribin

Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some 
flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom 
cleaning at a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a 
mooring, and have to work my way around the boat, tying the dinghy to 
the railing as I go. It takes a little longer and a little more work, 
but it is still not that hard to do.


I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate.I'm sure a diver 
would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.


I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing 
the broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In 
addition to the pool noodle floation, I also added a curved extension 
made from plumbing so that the broom head is offset from the boathook by 
about a foot. That clearance makes all the difference in reaching the 
center area of the hull without the boathook hitting the hull. I think I 
have some pictures of this thing on my home computer. If I can find 
them, I'll post them somewhere on the web.


Bill Bina



On 12/23/2014 9:33 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
Put a checkmark for me in the column of 50’ hose with regulator and a 
tank sitting on the dock. Works well without all the hassle of a BCD. 
Although I can’t really “stand” on the bottom cleaning the bottom is 
not a terribly strenuous activity.


Saves much money from having a diver clean the bottom, especially if 
you race…


Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 



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Re: Stus-List Seasons' Greetings

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Merry Christmas to you Stu and Gladys, 
and many thanks for providing us with this list.
Your efforts truly are appreciated. 

Steve Thomas

  - Original Message - 
  From: Stu via CnC-List 
  To: C&C Email List 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 8:32 AM
  Subject: Stus-List Seasons' Greetings


  Hello C&C Listers!

  Season's Greetings!

  May this Winter be filled with festivities, joyous hymns and warm smiles.

  Let the coming year find peace, prosperity, health and harmony within your 
family,
  friends and all your closest ones.

  Stu ‘n’ Gladys




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Re: Stus-List Boat stands and draining deck water while on thestands.

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

One better: lay a length (two feet?) of line (3/8 or so) in the low spot and 
hang about a foot of it through one of the toe rail holes and over the side. It 
will wick the water out even better than a sponge.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
  To: Bill Bina - gmail ; 1 CnC List 
  Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 12:27 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat stands and draining deck water while on thestands.


  Cram a small sponge through the toerail where the water pools, it will wick 
it overboard pretty quickly and you won't be drilling a bunch more holes in 
your boat. 



  Jim Watts
  Paradigm Shift
  C&C 35 Mk III
  Victoria, BC



  On 22 December 2014 at 09:20, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Shedding of surface water on boats is a design element that is predicated 
on the boat rolling, rocking and pitching. When that movement stops, there are 
usually problems. In the days of wooden boats, being on land caused greatly 
accelerated deterioration. This is exactly why many people cover their boats 
with a frame and tarp while on the hard. Covered boats age much slower.

Bill Bina



On 12/22/2014 12:12 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List wrote:

  Hi all, I have a question on boat stands and aft tilting of the boat 
while on the hard.  

  I find water drainage on most C&C designs to be horrible.  I’ve tackled 
the issues many times but this one keeps coming back to haunt me.  

  When the boat is in water, a while back I made drain holes at what 
appeared to be the lowest point on deck.  So when boat is properly loaded and 
equipped, the deck drains pretty good.  

  Well all that changes once the boat is out of the water as the yard props 
it so that everything is tilting aft.  So now water collects about few feet 
further aft.   Year after year this tilting changes based on how they setup the 
stands at the time of haulout.  No matter what you do (I’ve drilled pilot holes 
in aluminum toerail),  I  always have submerged pulpit stanchions bases.  For 
me these carry a significant load(solar panels, support the wind generator and 
15HP outboard on pulpit mount)  Well in the winter, ice works the base screws 
on stanchions and before you know it you get leaks and wet core.   



  I would love to prop the aft stands and lower the forward ones so that 
the boats sits more level and the water collects where my drain holes are.  Has 
anyone done this or will doing this disturb  how the keel sits on the wooden 
blocks?

  My thought was to just prop the aft ones but then I realized that they 
all need to be adjusted slightly.  





  Petar Horvatic

  Sundowner

  76 C&C 38MkII

  Newport, RI






   

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Stus-List Sanitation hose

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I am replacing the old sanitation hose from the pump out fitting to the hand 
pump (used when we are offshore) and from the pump to the thru hull outlet.  
The Trident Sani Shield seems to be a favorite (1.5 inches ID) but has a bigger 
OD than other hoses.  Does anyone know its OD? - it will be easier if I don't 
have to make the hole it goes through (just plywood) bigger.

Best wishes to all the wonderful people on Stu's list for the holiday season.  
I enjoy working on Cat's Paw on the hard during the winter as well as the 
sailing season, and support from this group makes that much more productive and 
fun.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Sanitation hose

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Eric,

I just replaced a sanitation hose.  I think I used Vetus.  The wall was
about 1/4 inch, making the outside diameter 2 inches.  I can measure a
piece of scrap in the next couple days.  The Raritan is probably the most
flexible and is priced accordingly!

Joel

On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 11:06 AM, Eric Frank via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am replacing the old sanitation hose from the pump out fitting to the
> hand pump (used when we are offshore) and from the pump to the thru hull
> outlet.  The Trident Sani Shield seems to be a favorite (1.5 inches ID) but
> has a bigger OD than other hoses.  Does anyone know its OD? - it will be
> easier if I don't have to make the hole it goes through (just plywood)
> bigger.
>
> Best wishes to all the wonderful people on Stu's list for the holiday
> season.  I enjoy working on Cat's Paw on the hard during the winter as well
> as the sailing season, and support from this group makes that much more
> productive and fun.
>
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C&C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
> ___
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>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> page at:
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you described. I 
hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.

It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks to a 
plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen cylinders 
of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a plastic pipe 
handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser version with just 
a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore that one out, I got the 
special model with the cylinders. The only downside is that you cannot reach 
the keel.

I use it between diver trips.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat


  I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some 
flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom cleaning at 
a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a mooring, and have to work 
my way around the boat, tying the dinghy to the railing as I go. It takes a 
little longer and a little more work, but it is still not that hard to do. 

  I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate. I'm sure a diver would 
do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.  

  I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing the 
broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In addition to 
the pool noodle floation, I also added a curved extension made from plumbing so 
that the broom head is offset from the boathook by about a foot. That clearance 
makes all the difference in reaching the center area of the hull without the 
boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some pictures of this thing on my 
home computer. If I can find them, I'll post them somewhere on the web.

  Bill Bina




  On 12/23/2014 9:33 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:

Put a checkmark for me in the column of 50’ hose with regulator and a tank 
sitting on the dock. Works well without all the hassle of a BCD. Although I 
can’t really “stand” on the bottom cleaning the bottom is not a terribly 
strenuous activity. 


Saves much money from having a diver clean the bottom, especially if you 
race…


Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit






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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, 
it was my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can 
do the keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little 
too aggressive on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-)


Bill Bina

On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you 
described. I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.
It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad 
hooks to a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half 
a dozen cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is 
attached to a plastic pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There 
used to be a lesser version with just a single floatation pad on the 
back, but after I wore that one out, I got the special model with the 
cylinders. The only downside is that you cannot reach the keel.

I use it between diver trips.
Gary

- Original Message -
*From:* Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and
some flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes
bottom cleaning at a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm
now on a mooring, and have to work my way around the boat, tying
the dinghy to the railing as I go. It takes a little longer and a
little more work, but it is still not that hard to do.

I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate.I'm sure a
diver would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.

I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit.
Screwing the broom head directly to the boat hook does not work
very well. In addition to the pool noodle floation, I also added a
curved extension made from plumbing so that the broom head is
offset from the boathook by about a foot. That clearance makes all
the difference in reaching the center area of the hull without the
boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some pictures of this
thing on my home computer. If I can find them, I'll post them
somewhere on the web.

Bill Bina




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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to 
Micron 66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, 
at least it is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom 
cleaning every month, maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just 
a thought.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:
I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, 
it was my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system 
can do the keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a 
little too aggressive on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I 
guess! :-)


Bill Bina

On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you 
described. I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.
It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad 
hooks to a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has 
half a dozen cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is 
attached to a plastic pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There 
used to be a lesser version with just a single floatation pad on the 
back, but after I wore that one out, I got the special model with the 
cylinders. The only downside is that you cannot reach the keel.

I use it between diver trips.
Gary

- Original Message -
*From:* Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and
some flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes
bottom cleaning at a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm
now on a mooring, and have to work my way around the boat, tying
the dinghy to the railing as I go. It takes a little longer and a
little more work, but it is still not that hard to do.

I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate.I'm sure a
diver would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.

I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit.
Screwing the broom head directly to the boat hook does not work
very well. In addition to the pool noodle floation, I also added
a curved extension made from plumbing so that the broom head is
offset from the boathook by about a foot. That clearance makes
all the difference in reaching the center area of the hull
without the boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some
pictures of this thing on my home computer. If I can find them,
I'll post them somewhere on the web.

Bill Bina






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Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

[Dan Utinske via CnC-List]

Anyone know the location of the blackwater tank in C&C 26' - I'm thinking
that it's bout time to change hoses!  I have drained and flushed but there
is the beginning of an odor.  We don't use the toilet while moored in the
marina and do keep it empty.

Regards, Merry Christmas!!!

Dan
C&C 26' "Only Time"
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Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

[Evan Morgan via CnC-List]

Dan, ours was under the v-berth, port side. One of the first things we did was 
remove it, the head, and the hoses. After a few good cleanings, the open pit 
privy smell dissipated.
We sprung for an Airhead and don't have to mess with sewer plumbing on the boat.

Evan
1978 C&C 26 Encounter

-Original Message-
From: "Dan Utinske via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:42 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

Anyone know the location of the blackwater tank in C&C 26' - I'm thinking that 
it's bout time to change hoses!  I have drained and flushed but there is the 
beginning of an odor.  We don't use the toilet while moored in the marina and 
do keep it empty.


Regards, Merry Christmas!!!


Dan

C&C 26' "Only Time"___
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Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

How do you like the airhead?

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Evan Morgan 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:51 PM
To: Dan Utinske; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

Dan, ours was under the v-berth, port side. One of the first things we did was 
remove it, the head, and the hoses. After a few good cleanings, the open pit 
privy smell dissipated.
We sprung for an Airhead and don't have to mess with sewer plumbing on the boat.

Evan
1978 C&C 26 Encounter

From: Dan Utinske via CnC-List
Sent: ‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
Anyone know the location of the blackwater tank in C&C 26' - I'm thinking that 
it's bout time to change hoses!  I have drained and flushed but there is the 
beginning of an odor.  We don't use the toilet while moored in the marina and 
do keep it empty.
Regards, Merry Christmas!!!
Dan
C&C 26' "Only Time"
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Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

[Evan Morgan via CnC-List]

Love it. We've learned a few tricks, but it's a dead simple piece of kit.
As long as you remember to keep a couple of Tbsp of white sugar in the urine 
tank, it's much more palatable than a traditional head.

-Original Message-
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:52 PM
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

How do you like the airhead?
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Evan Morgan 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:51 PM
To: Dan Utinske; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
 
Dan, ours was under the v-berth, port side. One of the first things we did was 
remove it, the head, and the hoses. After a few good cleanings, the open pit 
privy smell dissipated.
We sprung for an Airhead and don't have to mess with sewer plumbing on the boat.

Evan
1978 C&C 26 Encounter



From: Dan Utinske via CnC-List
Sent: ‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
Anyone know the location of the blackwater tank in C&C 26' - I'm thinking that 
it's bout time to change hoses!  I have drained and flushed but there is the 
beginning of an odor.  We don't use the toilet while moored in the marina and 
do keep it empty.
Regards, Merry Christmas!!!
Dan
C&C 26' "Only Time"___
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Re: Stus-List Sanitation hose

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Eric,

Have you seen this: 
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0419/9489/files/PS1312_War_Against_Head_Odors_2_reprint1404_web.pdf 
?


This is a Practical Sailor's test. For whatever reason the PDF of the 
results is available on that web site.


Despite the popular opinion that Trident 101/102 are the best out there, 
other options were recommended even higher (e.g. Raritan).


Interesting results

Marek


-Original Message- 
From: Eric Frank via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 11:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sanitation hose

I am replacing the old sanitation hose from the pump out fitting to the hand 
pump (used when we are offshore) and from the pump to the thru hull outlet. 
The Trident Sani Shield seems to be a favorite (1.5 inches ID) but has a 
bigger OD than other hoses.  Does anyone know its OD? - it will be easier if 
I don't have to make the hole it goes through (just plywood) bigger.


Best wishes to all the wonderful people on Stu's list for the holiday 
season.  I enjoy working on Cat's Paw on the hard during the winter as well 
as the sailing season, and support from this group makes that much more 
productive and fun.


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure washed 
this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the hull looked 
about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by the yard.  I am 
most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of Micon 66 compared to 
Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF paints used in this area.

The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains higher 
levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint would likely 
reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a typical boat that 
races.

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
To: Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron 
66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least it 
is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom cleaning every month, 
maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just a thought.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:
I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it was 
my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do the keel. 
I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too aggressive on my 
ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-)

Bill Bina
On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you described. I 
hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.

It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks to a 
plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen cylinders 
of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a plastic pipe 
handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser version with just 
a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore that one out, I got the 
special model with the cylinders. The only downside is that you cannot reach 
the keel.

I use it between diver trips.

Gary
- Original Message -
From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some flotation 
that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom cleaning at a slip a 
short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a mooring, and have to work my way 
around the boat, tying the dinghy to the railing as I go. It takes a little 
longer and a little more work, but it is still not that hard to do.

I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate. I'm sure a diver would 
do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.

I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing the 
broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In addition to 
the pool noodle floation, I also added a curved extension made from plumbing so 
that the broom head is offset from the boathook by about a foot. That clearance 
makes all the difference in reaching the center area of the hull without the 
boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some pictures of this thing on my 
home computer. If I can find them, I'll post them somewhere on the web.

Bill Bina






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Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Where did you find the "air head" toilet? We are looking for a toilet for
our boat house that does not require plumbing. We tried a composting toilet
and found it to be disgusting and trashed it after just 1 summer.

Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY - US12788
C&C 39 TM
Savannah, GA USA



On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 12:55 PM, Evan Morgan via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Love it. We've learned a few tricks, but it's a dead simple piece of kit.
> As long as you remember to keep a couple of Tbsp of white sugar in the
> urine tank, it's much more palatable than a traditional head.
> --
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> Sent: ‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:52 PM
> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
>  How do you like the airhead?
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Evan
> Morgan via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:51 PM
> *To:* Dan Utinske; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
>
>
> Dan, ours was under the v-berth, port side. One of the first things we did
> was remove it, the head, and the hoses. After a few good cleanings, the
> open pit privy smell dissipated.
> We sprung for an Airhead and don't have to mess with sewer plumbing on the
> boat.
>
> Evan
> 1978 C&C 26 Encounter
>   --
>
> *From: *Dan Utinske via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:42 PM
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject: *Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
> Anyone know the location of the blackwater tank in C&C 26' - I'm thinking
> that it's bout time to change hoses!  I have drained and flushed but there
> is the beginning of an odor.  We don't use the toilet while moored in the
> marina and do keep it empty.
>
> Regards, Merry Christmas!!!
>
> Dan
>
> C&C 26' "Only Time"
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I switched from Trinidad to Trinidad SR this season.  My diver was so
impressed she is using it on her boat.  Don't know if you can buy it up
North or how it would perform there.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 1:02 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure
> washed this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the
> hull looked about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by
> the yard.  I am most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of
> Micon 66 compared to Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF
> paints used in this area.
>
>
>
> The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains
> higher levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint
> would likely reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a
> typical boat that races.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert
> Abbott via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
> *To:* Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
>
>
>
> Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron
> 66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least
> it is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom cleaning every
> month, maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just a thought.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it
> was my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do
> the keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too
> aggressive on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-)
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
>
>  There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you
> described. I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.
>
>
>
> It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks
> to a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen
> cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a
> plastic pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser
> version with just a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore
> that one out, I got the special model with the cylinders. The only downside
> is that you cannot reach the keel.
>
>
>
> I use it between diver trips.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>  - Original Message -
>
> *From:* Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
>
>
>
> I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some
> flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom cleaning
> at a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a mooring, and have
> to work my way around the boat, tying the dinghy to the railing as I go. It
> takes a little longer and a little more work, but it is still not that hard
> to do.
>
> I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate. I'm sure a diver
> would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.
>
> I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing the
> broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In addition
> to the pool noodle floation, I also added a curved extension made from
> plumbing so that the broom head is offset from the boathook by about a
> foot. That clearance makes all the difference in reaching the center area
> of the hull without the boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some
> pictures of this thing on my home computer. If I can find them, I'll post
> them somewhere on the web.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
>
>
>
>  ___
>
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
>
>
> Email address:
>
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
> at:
>
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I think the Air Head and Natures Head are both composting Toilets.

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 1:20 PM
To: Evan Morgan; C&CList
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

 

Where did you find the "air head" toilet? We are looking for a toilet for our 
boat house that does not require plumbing. We tried a composting toilet and 
found it to be disgusting and trashed it after just 1 summer.

 

Jack Fitzgerald

HONEY - US12788

C&C 39 TM
Savannah, GA USA




 

 

On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 12:55 PM, Evan Morgan via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Love it. We've learned a few tricks, but it's a dead simple piece of kit.
As long as you remember to keep a couple of Tbsp of white sugar in the urine 
tank, it's much more palatable than a traditional head.

  _  

From: Della Barba, Joe via   CnC-List
Sent: ‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:52 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

How do you like the airhead?

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Evan Morgan 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:51 PM
To: Dan Utinske; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

 

Dan, ours was under the v-berth, port side. One of the first things we did was 
remove it, the head, and the hoses. After a few good cleanings, the open pit 
privy smell dissipated.
We sprung for an Airhead and don't have to mess with sewer plumbing on the boat.

Evan
1978 C&C 26 Encounter

  _  

From: Dan Utinske via CnC-List  
Sent: ‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

Anyone know the location of the blackwater tank in C&C 26' - I'm thinking that 
it's bout time to change hoses!  I have drained and flushed but there is the 
beginning of an odor.  We don't use the toilet while moored in the marina and 
do keep it empty.

Regards, Merry Christmas!!!

Dan

C&C 26' "Only Time"


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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Joel,

Was she impressed enough to give you a discount?  ;-)

Cheers,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 23, 2014, at 1:24 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I switched from Trinidad to Trinidad SR this season.  My diver was so 
> impressed she is using it on her boat.  Don't know if you can buy it up North 
> or how it would perform there.
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
>> On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 1:02 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure 
>> washed this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the 
>> hull looked about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by the 
>> yard.  I am most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of Micon 66 
>> compared to Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF paints 
>> used in this area.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains 
>> higher levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint would 
>> likely reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a typical boat 
>> that races.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
>> Abbott via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
>> To: Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
>>  
>> 
>> Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron 
>> 66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least 
>> it is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom cleaning every 
>> month, maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just a thought. 
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:
>> 
>> I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it 
>> was my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do the 
>> keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too 
>> aggressive on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-) 
>> 
>> Bill Bina
>> 
>> On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
>> 
>> There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you described. 
>> I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks to 
>> a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen 
>> cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a 
>> plastic pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser 
>> version with just a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore that 
>> one out, I got the special model with the cylinders. The only downside is 
>> that you cannot reach the keel.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I use it between diver trips.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> - Original Message -
>> 
>> From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
>> 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some 
>> flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom cleaning 
>> at a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a mooring, and have 
>> to work my way around the boat, tying the dinghy to the railing as I go. It 
>> takes a little longer and a little more work, but it is still not that hard 
>> to do. 
>> 
>> I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate. I'm sure a diver 
>> would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.  
>> 
>> I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing the 
>> broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In addition to 
>> the pool noodle floation, I also added a curved extension made from plumbing 
>> so that the broom head is offset from the boathook by about a foot. That 
>> clearance makes all the difference in reaching the center area of the hull 
>> without the boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some pictures of this 
>> thing on my home computer. If I can find them, I'll post them somewhere on 
>> the web.
>> 
>> Bill Bina
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>>  
>>  
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

[Evan Morgan via CnC-List]

Technically, they're desiccating toilets, but most people know them as 
composting.
Jack, I don't know what brand you had, but the cheap ones found through camping 
stores can be disgusting.
We know quite a few folks with the Air Head and we're unanimous in our 
satisfaction. We all, however, make sure to use the coffee filters as 
recommended. Not doing so can result in an unpleasant "soup".
We originally balked at the cost (almost a boat buck) but we must like 
it...we're planning on putting one on the Pearson 424 we're closing on next 
week.

-Original Message-
From: "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎12/‎23/‎2014 1:26 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

I think the Air Head and Natures Head are both composting Toilets.
 
Regards,
 
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 1:20 PM
To: Evan Morgan; C&CList
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
 
Where did you find the "air head" toilet? We are looking for a toilet for our 
boat house that does not require plumbing. We tried a composting toilet and 
found it to be disgusting and trashed it after just 1 summer.
 
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY - US12788
C&C 39 TM
Savannah, GA USA


 
 
On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 12:55 PM, Evan Morgan via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Love it. We've learned a few tricks, but it's a dead simple piece of kit.
As long as you remember to keep a couple of Tbsp of white sugar in the urine 
tank, it's much more palatable than a traditional head.



From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: ‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:52 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
How do you like the airhead?
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Evan Morgan 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:51 PM
To: Dan Utinske; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
 
Dan, ours was under the v-berth, port side. One of the first things we did was 
remove it, the head, and the hoses. After a few good cleanings, the open pit 
privy smell dissipated.
We sprung for an Airhead and don't have to mess with sewer plumbing on the boat.

Evan
1978 C&C 26 Encounter



From: Dan Utinske via CnC-List
Sent: ‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
Anyone know the location of the blackwater tank in C&C 26' - I'm thinking that 
it's bout time to change hoses!  I have drained and flushed but there is the 
beginning of an odor.  We don't use the toilet while moored in the marina and 
do keep it empty.
Regards, Merry Christmas!!!
Dan
C&C 26' "Only Time"

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Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Yikes. I tried the Natures Head and it awful...Having said, it did get a
lot of use over the summer but simply wasn't what we expected..

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald

On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 1:25 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  I think the Air Head and Natures Head are both composting Toilets.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jack
> Fitzgerald via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 1:20 PM
> *To:* Evan Morgan; C&CList
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
>
>
> Where did you find the "air head" toilet? We are looking for a toilet for
> our boat house that does not require plumbing. We tried a composting toilet
> and found it to be disgusting and trashed it after just 1 summer.
>
>
>
> Jack Fitzgerald
>
> HONEY - US12788
>
> C&C 39 TM
> Savannah, GA USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 12:55 PM, Evan Morgan via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Love it. We've learned a few tricks, but it's a dead simple piece of kit.
> As long as you remember to keep a couple of Tbsp of white sugar in the
> urine tank, it's much more palatable than a traditional head.
>   --
>
> *From: *Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:52 PM
> *To: *'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
> How do you like the airhead?
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Evan
> Morgan via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:51 PM
> *To:* Dan Utinske; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
>
>
> Dan, ours was under the v-berth, port side. One of the first things we did
> was remove it, the head, and the hoses. After a few good cleanings, the
> open pit privy smell dissipated.
> We sprung for an Airhead and don't have to mess with sewer plumbing on the
> boat.
>
> Evan
> 1978 C&C 26 Encounter
>   --
>
> *From: *Dan Utinske via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:42 PM
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject: *Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
> Anyone know the location of the blackwater tank in C&C 26' - I'm thinking
> that it's bout time to change hoses!  I have drained and flushed but there
> is the beginning of an odor.  We don't use the toilet while moored in the
> marina and do keep it empty.
>
> Regards, Merry Christmas!!!
>
> Dan
>
> C&C 26' "Only Time"
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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>
>
>
> ___
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>
> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Thanks, Evan

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald


On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 1:39 PM, Evan Morgan via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Technically, they're desiccating toilets, but most people know them as
> composting.
> Jack, I don't know what brand you had, but the cheap ones found through
> camping stores can be disgusting.
> We know quite a few folks with the Air Head and we're unanimous in our
> satisfaction. We all, however, make sure to use the coffee filters as
> recommended. Not doing so can result in an unpleasant "soup".
> We originally balked at the cost (almost a boat buck) but we must like
> it...we're planning on putting one on the Pearson 424 we're closing on next
> week.
> --
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> Sent: ‎12/‎23/‎2014 1:26 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
>  I think the Air Head and Natures Head are both composting Toilets.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jack
> Fitzgerald via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 1:20 PM
> *To:* Evan Morgan; C&CList
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
>
>
> Where did you find the "air head" toilet? We are looking for a toilet for
> our boat house that does not require plumbing. We tried a composting toilet
> and found it to be disgusting and trashed it after just 1 summer.
>
>
>
> Jack Fitzgerald
>
> HONEY - US12788
>
> C&C 39 TM
> Savannah, GA USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 12:55 PM, Evan Morgan via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Love it. We've learned a few tricks, but it's a dead simple piece of kit.
> As long as you remember to keep a couple of Tbsp of white sugar in the
> urine tank, it's much more palatable than a traditional head.
>   --
>
> *From: *Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:52 PM
> *To: *'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
> How do you like the airhead?
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Evan
> Morgan via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:51 PM
> *To:* Dan Utinske; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
>
>
> Dan, ours was under the v-berth, port side. One of the first things we did
> was remove it, the head, and the hoses. After a few good cleanings, the
> open pit privy smell dissipated.
> We sprung for an Airhead and don't have to mess with sewer plumbing on the
> boat.
>
> Evan
> 1978 C&C 26 Encounter
>   --
>
> *From: *Dan Utinske via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *‎12/‎23/‎2014 12:42 PM
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject: *Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
> Anyone know the location of the blackwater tank in C&C 26' - I'm thinking
> that it's bout time to change hoses!  I have drained and flushed but there
> is the beginning of an odor.  We don't use the toilet while moored in the
> marina and do keep it empty.
>
> Regards, Merry Christmas!!!
>
> Dan
>
> C&C 26' "Only Time"
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
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>
> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Kim Brown via CnC-List]

Put me in the DIY bottom cleaning group my diver retired and headed for the
islands on his boat. I either use a tank on the dock with a hose to standard
regulator. It is shallow enough that I can use the bottom for leverage.  I
use a shortie if the water temp is under 80. (AC in the house just kicked on
btw) Downside is that it costs me a lunch with friend who is certified plus
the actual fill charges. Upside is that he borrows the tank to have xtras
during lobster season and the rent is mighty tasty.  \I also picked up a
small 12v compressor with a hose/low pressure regulator combo. I hate to
recommend it as it is cheaply built and I don't have enough time with it to
see what the 'lifecycle' is. It sits in the cockpit, plugs into an existing
cigarette lighter outlet and chugs away. Won't support the hose length, and
depths a real tank will and there is no accumulator but it does allow me to
make it around the boat without drowning. My thought is that it stows nicely
and gives me a way to deal with line wraps or clogged intakes etc. away from
home.   YMMV

Kim Brown
Trust Me 35-3


On Dec 22, 2014, at 6:25 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Happy holidays to all!

 

Jack, how do you clean your hull? Do you do it yourself or hire it out. I am
considering getting dive certified so I can get a set of tanks and air. Even
with all the gear (weights, wet suit, etc.) I think it would be a lot less
expensive in the long run and as a bonus, I would be certified to dive. Up
here in the northeast I don?t think I would need to do it as often as you
unless I start racing. It would also be nice to change my prop shaft zincs
once during the season and deal with other various issues that might require
me to work on the exterior of the hull below the water line.

 

Burt



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Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎Dan,I don't think a blackwater system came as standard on a 26. I think it was just pump overboard. Late '70's wasn't that eco-friendly.  ‎However, my blackwater tank is under the V berth. But it looks like it was installed by a previous owner. My fresh water tanks are under the port settee, and there is just storage under the starboard settee. I don't think there is another convenient space other than under the V berth.  sam :-)C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta  From: Dan Utinske via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 10:42 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Dan UtinskeSubject: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater TankAnyone know the location of the blackwater tank in C&C 26' - I'm thinking that it's bout time to change hoses!  I have drained and flushed but there is the beginning of an odor.  We don't use the toilet while moored in the marina and do keep it empty.Regards, Merry Christmas!!!DanC&C 26' "Only Time"
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Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

[Dan Utinske via CnC-List]

Sam,

It has the freshwater tank in the same location as yours so I suspect I'll
find the holding tank where you suggest though the pump out is on the
starboard side.  I'm at a junction on if I should keep the current
configuration and update the hoses or switch to the composite.  I've read
where boaters have used rigid PVC similar to what is used in a house and
used smaller hoses at the connectors for flexibility.  I'm not sure what I
will do at this point.

It would be great to take her out of the water and put in a very large
temperature controlled workspace. :)  The Pacific Northwest while mild, can
be quite wet.

Dan

On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Sam Salter via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> ‎Dan,
>
> I don't think a blackwater system came as standard on a 26. I think it was
> just pump overboard. Late '70's wasn't that eco-friendly.
> ‎However, my blackwater tank is under the V berth. But it looks like it
> was installed by a previous owner.
>
> My fresh water tanks are under the port settee, and there is just storage
> under the starboard settee. I don't think there is another convenient space
> other than under the V berth.
>
> sam :-)
> C&C 26 Liquorice
> Ghost Lake Alberta
>
>   *From: *Dan Utinske via CnC-List
> *Sent: *Tuesday, December 23, 2014 10:42 AM
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Reply To: *Dan Utinske
> *Subject: *Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank
>
> Anyone know the location of the blackwater tank in C&C 26' - I'm thinking
> that it's bout time to change hoses!  I have drained and flushed but there
> is the beginning of an odor.  We don't use the toilet while moored in the
> marina and do keep it empty.
>
> Regards, Merry Christmas!!!
>
> Dan
> C&C 26' "Only Time"
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
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> page at:
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>
>
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>
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>
>
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Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I am very interested in the Micron 66 bottom paint.  Rob, is your boat in 
fresh, salt, or brackish water?

Merry Christmas to everyone on the list!!!

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame___
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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I have used Micron 66 and got 4.5 years with out cleaning except for
knocking off the big chunks. Now I am using Blue Sea 45% ablative. still no
cleaning. Have a diver replace my shaft zincs twice a year, he will also
clean the paddle wheels for the knot meters. When the bottom shows signs of
being dirty it is time to go cruising.

Doug Mountjoy
Pegasus LF38
Just west of Ballard, WA

On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 10:02 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure
> washed this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the
> hull looked about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by
> the yard.  I am most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of
> Micon 66 compared to Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF
> paints used in this area.
>
>
>
> The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains
> higher levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint
> would likely reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a
> typical boat that races.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert
> Abbott via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
> *To:* Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
>
>
>
> Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron
> 66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least
> it is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom cleaning every
> month, maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just a thought.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it
> was my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do
> the keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too
> aggressive on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-)
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
>
>  There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you
> described. I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.
>
>
>
> It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks
> to a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen
> cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a
> plastic pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser
> version with just a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore
> that one out, I got the special model with the cylinders. The only downside
> is that you cannot reach the keel.
>
>
>
> I use it between diver trips.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>  - Original Message -
>
> *From:* Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
>
>
>
> I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some
> flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom cleaning
> at a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a mooring, and have
> to work my way around the boat, tying the dinghy to the railing as I go. It
> takes a little longer and a little more work, but it is still not that hard
> to do.
>
> I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate. I'm sure a diver
> would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.
>
> I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing the
> broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In addition
> to the pool noodle floation, I also added a curved extension made from
> plumbing so that the broom head is offset from the boathook by about a
> foot. That clearance makes all the difference in reaching the center area
> of the hull without the boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some
> pictures of this thing on my home computer. If I can find them, I'll post
> them somewhere on the web.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater Tank

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎Dan,My pump out is on the‎ starboard side too.The "Y" valve, manual pump and through hull are on the port side, all under the V berth just forward of the head bulkhead.  sam :-) From: Dan UtinskeSent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:23 PMTo: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater TankSam,It has the freshwater tank in the same location as yours so I suspect I'll find the holding tank where you suggest though the pump out is on the starboard side.  I'm at a junction on if I should keep the current configuration and update the hoses or switch to the composite.  I've read where boaters have used rigid PVC similar to what is used in a house and used smaller hoses at the connectors for flexibility.  I'm not sure what I will do at this point.  It would be great to take her out of the water and put in a very large temperature controlled workspace. :)  The Pacific Northwest while mild, can be quite wet.Dan  On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Sam Salter via CnC-List  wrote:‎Dan,I don't think a blackwater system came as standard on a 26. I think it was just pump overboard. Late '70's wasn't that eco-friendly.  ‎However, my blackwater tank is under the V berth. But it looks like it was installed by a previous owner. My fresh water tanks are under the port settee, and there is just storage under the starboard settee. I don't think there is another convenient space other than under the V berth.  sam :-)C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta  From: Dan Utinske via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 10:42 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Dan UtinskeSubject: Stus-List C&C 26' Blackwater TankAnyone know the location of the blackwater tank in C&C 26' - I'm thinking that it's bout time to change hoses!  I have drained and flushed but there is the beginning of an odor.  We don't use the toilet while moored in the marina and do keep it empty.Regards, Merry Christmas!!!DanC&C 26' "Only Time"
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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[djmocny via CnC-List]

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Kim Brown via CnC-List  
Date:12/23/2014  1:45 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Diving your own boat 


Put me in the DIY bottom cleaning group my diver retired and headed for the
islands on his boat. I either use a tank on the dock with a hose to standard
regulator. It is shallow enough that I can use the bottom for leverage.  I
use a shortie if the water temp is under 80. (AC in the house just kicked on
btw) Downside is that it costs me a lunch with friend who is certified plus
the actual fill charges. Upside is that he borrows the tank to have xtras
during lobster season and the rent is mighty tasty.  \I also picked up a
small 12v compressor with a hose/low pressure regulator combo. I hate to
recommend it as it is cheaply built and I don't have enough time with it to
see what the 'lifecycle' is. It sits in the cockpit, plugs into an existing
cigarette lighter outlet and chugs away. Won't support the hose length, and
depths a real tank will and there is no accumulator but it does allow me to
make it around the boat without drowning. My thought is that it stows nicely
and gives me a way to deal with line wraps or clogged intakes etc. away from
home.   YMMV

Kim Brown
Trust Me 35-3


On Dec 22, 2014, at 6:25 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Happy holidays to all!



Jack, how do you clean your hull? Do you do it yourself or hire it out. I am
considering getting dive certified so I can get a set of tanks and air. Even
with all the gear (weights, wet suit, etc.) I think it would be a lot less
expensive in the long run and as a bonus, I would be certified to dive. Up
here in the northeast I don?t think I would need to do it as often as you
unless I start racing. It would also be nice to change my prop shaft zincs
once during the season and deal with other various issues that might require
me to work on the exterior of the hull below the water line.



Burt



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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Bob:

Our boat is in saltwater.I used Micron CSC for many years with 
excellent results.at the end of the each sailing season, the bottom 
had a film of algae which was removed at haulout with a pressure wash.  
Even after the pressure wash, the Micron CSC would remain somewhat 
stained in color (greenish)


Then a few years back on Kijiji, I saw 2.5 gallons of Micron 66 for 
$250..bought it and applied it over the CSC.no growth of any 
kind, no micro staining,  no need to pressure wash.I showed Mike 
Hoyt the paint a week or so ago (it was in the dark with an IPhone 
light) and I think he can attest to my claims.


The challenge I have is to how to get more of it since it is not sold in 
Canada.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/12/23 3:36 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:
I am very interested in the Micron 66 bottom paint.  Rob, is your boat 
in fresh, salt, or brackish water?


Merry Christmas to everyone on the list!!!

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as 
simply messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame



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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat > Micron 66

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Bottom paint effectiveness, like politics, is all local.  I have had Micron 66 
for the past 6 years and the bottom has to be cleaned every 2 weeks from mid 
July through September.  That is considerably better than the VC Offshore I had 
previously which had to be cleaned every week.  We are club racing weekly and 
10+ weekend regattas or races each summer.   

 

As a comparison to Doug’s harbor, if the speedo paddle wheel is left in for 4 
days during that period it is completely fouled with shrimp and slime.  So at 
the end of every weekend the speedo is pulled.  

 

Am in salt water though in a dammed river estuary and when there are heavy 
rains the ”river” flows over the spillway and the harbor probably gets a little 
brackish.  Also am certain there is no shortage of fertilizer run off from the 
lawns of the homes on both shores.  

 

Micron 66 seems to be one of the better paints and it certainly is one of the 
most expensive.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Douglas 
Mountjoy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 2:44 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

 

I have used Micron 66 and got 4.5 years with out cleaning except for knocking 
off the big chunks. Now I am using Blue Sea 45% ablative. still no cleaning. 
Have a diver replace my shaft zincs twice a year, he will also clean the paddle 
wheels for the knot meters. When the bottom shows signs of being dirty it is 
time to go cruising. 

Doug Mountjoy

Pegasus LF38

Just west of Ballard, WA

 

On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 10:02 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure washed 
this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the hull looked 
about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by the yard.  I am 
most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of Micon 66 compared to 
Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF paints used in this area.

 

The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains higher 
levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint would likely 
reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a typical boat that 
races.

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:  
cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
To: Bill Bina - gmail;   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

 

Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron 
66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least it 
is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom cleaning every month, 
maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just a thought. 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:

I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it was 
my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do the keel. 
I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too aggressive on my 
ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-) 

Bill Bina

On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:

There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you described. I 
hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.

 

It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks to a 
plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen cylinders 
of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a plastic pipe 
handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser version with just 
a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore that one out, I got the 
special model with the cylinders. The only downside is that you cannot reach 
the keel.

 

I use it between diver trips.

 

Gary

- Original Message - 

From:   Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 

To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

 

I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some flotation 
that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom cleaning at a slip a 
short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a mooring, and have to work my way 
around the boat, tying the dinghy to the railing as I go. It takes a little 
longer and a little more work, but it is still not that hard to do. 

I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate. I'm sure a diver would 
do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.  

I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing the 
broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In addition to 
th

Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat > Micron 66

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Agreed that bottom paint is all local.

In warm water such as I have in southern/western Florida, the soft paints such 
as Micron and CSC are no good at all.

Everyone I know uses Trinidad. At the boatyard where I used to haul in Fort 
Lauderdale, I don’t think they even stocked other brands. If they did, there 
were only a few. They made it clear Trinidad was what you wanted.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Nauset Beach via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 4:50 PM
To: 'Douglas Mountjoy' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat > Micron 66

Bottom paint effectiveness, like politics, is all local.  I have had Micron 66 
for the past 6 years and the bottom has to be cleaned every 2 weeks from mid 
July through September.  That is considerably better than the VC Offshore I had 
previously which had to be cleaned every week.  We are club racing weekly and 
10+ weekend regattas or races each summer.



As a comparison to Doug’s harbor, if the speedo paddle wheel is left in for 4 
days during that period it is completely fouled with shrimp and slime.  So at 
the end of every weekend the speedo is pulled.



Am in salt water though in a dammed river estuary and when there are heavy 
rains the ”river” flows over the spillway and the harbor probably gets a little 
brackish.  Also am certain there is no shortage of fertilizer run off from the 
lawns of the homes on both shores.



Micron 66 seems to be one of the better paints and it certainly is one of the 
most expensive.



Brian



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Douglas 
Mountjoy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 2:44 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat



I have used Micron 66 and got 4.5 years with out cleaning except for knocking 
off the big chunks. Now I am using Blue Sea 45% ablative. still no cleaning. 
Have a diver replace my shaft zincs twice a year, he will also clean the paddle 
wheels for the knot meters. When the bottom shows signs of being dirty it is 
time to go cruising.

Doug Mountjoy

Pegasus LF38

Just west of Ballard, WA



On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 10:02 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure 
washed this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the hull 
looked about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by the yard.  
I am most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of Micon 66 compared 
to Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF paints used in this 
area.



  The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains 
higher levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint would 
likely reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a typical boat 
that races.



  Mike



  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Abbott via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
  To: Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat



  Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron 
66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least it 
is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom cleaning every month, 
maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just a thought.

  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.




  On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:

I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it 
was my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do the 
keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too aggressive 
on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-)

Bill Bina

On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:

  There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you 
described. I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.



  It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks 
to a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen 
cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a plastic 
pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser version with 
just a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore that one out, I got 
the special model with the cylinders. The only downside is that you cannot 
reach the keel.



  I use it between diver trips.



  Gary

- Original Message -

From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat



I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some 
flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes 

Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

As long as the boat is fast Joel, that’s all that matters.  Right?

 

I dove on my boat yesterday.  Water temp was 45F.  After the initial chill, it 
wasn’t bad at all.  My thin coating of VC Offshore is still working its magic.  
I will haul shortly anyway though. 

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 1:31 PM
To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

 

Joel,

 

Was she impressed enough to give you a discount?  ;-)

 

Cheers,

Dave

1982 C&C 37 - Ronin




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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

None of the local boatyards allow bottom cleaning in slips (we are in a river 
and the consequences are not good if they have to dredge and there's any copper 
in the sediment).  Do any others have this restriction?

Tim
Branford, CT


> On Dec 23, 2014, at 4:44 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bob:
> 
> Our boat is in saltwater.I used Micron CSC for many years with excellent 
> results.at the end of the each sailing season, the bottom had a film of 
> algae which was removed at haulout with a pressure wash.  Even after the 
> pressure wash, the Micron CSC would remain somewhat stained in color 
> (greenish) 
> 
> Then a few years back on Kijiji, I saw 2.5 gallons of Micron 66 for 
> $250..bought it and applied it over the CSC.no growth of any kind, no 
> micro staining,  no need to pressure wash.I showed Mike Hoyt the paint a 
> week or so ago (it was in the dark with an IPhone light) and I think he can 
> attest to my claims.
> 
> The challenge I have is to how to get more of it since it is not sold in 
> Canada.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2014/12/23 3:36 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:
>> I am very interested in the Micron 66 bottom paint.  Rob, is your boat in 
>> fresh, salt, or brackish water?
>> 
>> Merry Christmas to everyone on the list!!!
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
>> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> 
>> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
>> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> 
>> Email address:
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>> page at:
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>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Kim,

Unless the compressor you're using is meant for snorkeling, I wouldn't use
it.  You don't know what kind of microscopic particles may be in the air.
Brownie makes some good stuff, but it isn't cheap either.  If you're going
to inhale deeply, I would rather not do it through a cheapo compressor that
may have residual oil and metal particles in it.  A filter may help a
little, as would an accumulator.  Every time I see somebody on the dock
using a Craftsman air compressor, I cringe.  I breathe the expensive, dried
& filtered air from the dive shop...at $15 a fill!!!

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kim Brown
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 1:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Diving your own boat


Put me in the DIY bottom cleaning group my diver retired and headed for the
islands on his boat. I either use a tank on the dock with a hose to standard
regulator. It is shallow enough that I can use the bottom for leverage.  I
use a shortie if the water temp is under 80. (AC in the house just kicked on
btw) Downside is that it costs me a lunch with friend who is certified plus
the actual fill charges. Upside is that he borrows the tank to have xtras
during lobster season and the rent is mighty tasty.  \I also picked up a
small 12v compressor with a hose/low pressure regulator combo. I hate to
recommend it as it is cheaply built and I don't have enough time with it to
see what the 'lifecycle' is. It sits in the cockpit, plugs into an existing
cigarette lighter outlet and chugs away. Won't support the hose length, and
depths a real tank will and there is no accumulator but it does allow me to
make it around the boat without drowning. My thought is that it stows nicely
and gives me a way to deal with line wraps or clogged intakes etc. away from
home.   YMMV

Kim Brown
Trust Me 35-3



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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Friend of mine uses it on his boat.

We bought it in Portland and drove it across the border.

Declared it as boat parts!






sam :-)






From: CnC
Sent: ‎Tuesday‎, ‎December‎ ‎23‎, ‎2014 ‎2‎:‎44‎ ‎PM
To: Robert Boyer, CnC





Bob:

Our boat is in saltwater.I used Micron CSC for many years with excellent 
results.at the end of the each sailing season, the bottom had a film of 
algae which was removed at haulout with a pressure wash.  Even after the 
pressure wash, the Micron CSC would remain somewhat stained in color (greenish) 

Then a few years back on Kijiji, I saw 2.5 gallons of Micron 66 for 
$250..bought it and applied it over the CSC.no growth of any kind, no 
micro staining,  no need to pressure wash.I showed Mike Hoyt the paint a 
week or so ago (it was in the dark with an IPhone light) and I think he can 
attest to my claims.

The challenge I have is to how to get more of it since it is not sold in Canada.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/12/23 3:36 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:



I am very interested in the Micron 66 bottom paint.  Rob, is your boat in 
fresh, salt, or brackish water?




Merry Christmas to everyone on the list!!!

Bob Boyer 

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com




"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame



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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

After a number of years using Hydrocoat and having the diver every two weeks 
(gently, it is ablative and soft) and having about a quarter of it gone by 
haulout (every fall), I switched to Hydrocoat SR two years ago. I didn't haul 
this past spring (no time) and had a diver as usual. By each second week, the 
boat was slow. (So says the ex-Admiral, who races it on Wednesdays). So, we 
changed to a diver who could do it weekly and where I could put it next to the 
J-80 which was being done weekly and get a deal. It seemed to work.

We hauled last week. The paint is still all there! No bald spots, it looks like 
it was just put on, but I'm sure it has no anti-slime or any other 
anti-properties left. The J-80 has Vivid and is in the same shape. It also 
needed weekly treatments.

So, at least I don't have to sand this year, just add another coat. Then we'll 
see. I'm assuming the SR is harder.

And the last couple of years, the divers have complained that there is more 
build-up of junk on the bottoms, so maybe the salinity has changed a bit.

Gary
On the backwaters of the Chesapeake
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
  To: 'Dave Godwin' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; 'Joel Aronson' 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 5:01 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat


  As long as the boat is fast Joel, that’s all that matters.  Right?

   

  I dove on my boat yesterday.  Water temp was 45F.  After the initial chill, 
it wasn’t bad at all.  My thin coating of VC Offshore is still working its 
magic.  I will haul shortly anyway though. 

   

  Jake

   

  Jake Brodersen

  “Midnight Mistress”

  C&C 35 Mk-III

  Hampton VA

   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave 
Godwin via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 1:31 PM
  To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

   

  Joel,

   

  Was she impressed enough to give you a discount?  ;-)

   

  Cheers,

  Dave

  1982 C&C 37 - Ronin






--


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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> Do any others have this restriction?

Most if not all marinas in the PNW forbid cleaning ablative paint.  “If it 
leaves a cloud it cannot be cleaned.”  Shilshole Bay Marina has a “best 
practices” type document moorage customers need to sign.  The use of cleaning 
products that leave bubbles is discouraged.  I have been given the evil eye 
(from the dock’s soap bubble nazi) for using a weak solution of water and 
Simple Green.  One Lake Union / Ship Canal boatyard owner stated “if I pull a 
bucket of lake water out I cannot poor it back in as it would not pass the 
test.”

The State of Washington is considering additional legislation, both aquatic 
land use and grey/black water discharge that may impact recreational boaters.

While I fully support the effort to restore and protect the Salish Sea waters 
(have been a volunteer business community rep to the Partnership for Puget 
Sound in the past), many over-enthusiastic legislators and advocates discount 
the effect of storm water runoff and sewage overflow (millions of gallons) and 
target the poorly represented recreational and commercial marine activities.

Fortunately many of the region’s yacht clubs and marine trade associations have 
been pushing back.  If we are lucky more rational and balanced legislation will 
move forward that includes increased efforts to prevent land based pollution 
from overwhelming the near shore waters.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 2:07 PM
To: Robert Abbott; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

None of the local boatyards allow bottom cleaning in slips (we are in a river 
and the consequences are not good if they have to dredge and there's any copper 
in the sediment).  Do any others have this restriction?

Tim
Branford, CT

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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Kim Brown via CnC-List]

Appreciate the concern. It is an oilless compressor theoretically designed
for hookah use. Seems to be a Chinese knock off of one of the standard
hookah compressors. It is cheap and the 'rated to 5 meters' is a big stretch
(maybe if you don't breath;-) but it is good enough to get me down 5' to the
bottom of the keel. I would not recommend it for more than light/emergency
use. Google 'hookah gold dredge' for a look at other uses besides boat
cleaning..
Kim Brown
TrustMe!!! 35-3

-Original Message-
From: Jake Brodersen [mailto:captain_j...@cox.net] 
Sent: 12/23/2014 5:10 PM
To: 'Kim Brown'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Diving your own boat

Kim,

Unless the compressor you're using is meant for snorkeling, I wouldn't use
it.  You don't know what kind of microscopic particles may be in the air.
Brownie makes some good stuff, but it isn't cheap either.  If you're going
to inhale deeply, I would rather not do it through a cheapo compressor that
may have residual oil and metal particles in it.  A filter may help a
little, as would an accumulator.  Every time I see somebody on the dock
using a Craftsman air compressor, I cringe.  I breathe the expensive, dried
& filtered air from the dive shop...at $15 a fill!!!

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kim Brown
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 1:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Diving your own boat


Put me in the DIY bottom cleaning group my diver retired and headed for the
islands on his boat. I either use a tank on the dock with a hose to standard
regulator. It is shallow enough that I can use the bottom for leverage.  I
use a shortie if the water temp is under 80. (AC in the house just kicked on
btw) Downside is that it costs me a lunch with friend who is certified plus
the actual fill charges. Upside is that he borrows the tank to have xtras
during lobster season and the rent is mighty tasty.  \I also picked up a
small 12v compressor with a hose/low pressure regulator combo. I hate to
recommend it as it is cheaply built and I don't have enough time with it to
see what the 'lifecycle' is. It sits in the cockpit, plugs into an existing
cigarette lighter outlet and chugs away. Won't support the hose length, and
depths a real tank will and there is no accumulator but it does allow me to
make it around the boat without drowning. My thought is that it stows nicely
and gives me a way to deal with line wraps or clogged intakes etc. away from
home.   YMMV

Kim Brown
Trust Me 35-3



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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[DAVID R MOCNY via CnC-List]

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Stus-List Interlux Biolux - was Diving your own boat

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Interlux has added Biolux to some of their products available in the US.
The same base product sold in Canada is not available with Biolux.

As an example Interlux Canada sells VC-17m, Interlux US sells VC-17m Extra
with Biolux.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/can/diy/products/antifouling/vc-17m.aspx

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/products/antifouling/vc-17m-extra-with-biolux.aspx

Since I am reasonable close to Buffalo NY and go into the US a few times a year
I have been able to compare the two variations of VC-17. First year I finished 
off
a can of VC-17m, then continued with the VC-17M Extra with Biolux.. At haulout
it was pretty apparent where the switch was made. As advertized, the Biolux 
version
had no slime and could be cleaned down easily minimal effort. The areas covered
with VC-17m took the normal pressure wash and some scrubbing.

The products are about the same price so if slime is an issue I would say try 
the
Biolux version of whatever you are using if you can get it.

I can get two seasons from one application of the VC-17m Extra with a bit of
a touch up at the waterline and a full recoat of the rudder. The leading edge of
the keel and rudder wear off, possibly because I did about 1,200 nm of racing
last year ( trip odometer on the GPS ). Maybe the bottom stays cleaner because
I did 1,200 nm last year

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

Good stuff in response to my questions.

 

I think I will continue on to get dive certified just because it sounds like 
fun. I have some experience diving but never got certified. I know people who 
are but over time I’m sure that little complication will become more of a 
hassle than I want to deal with. I did look at the hookah and cockpit snorkel 
compressor systems and decided that it would be just simpler all around (and 
not much more costly) to get a tank and regulator and a way to put air in it 
cheaply whenever I need it. My guess is that for my purposes I can probably get 
away with two fills a year unless I want a lot of free lobster or get a spear 
gun for Christmas.

 

I have cleaned my hull free diving but getting too old for that. Great workout 
but can’t do the zinc or anything else that needs more than 90 seconds. Maybe 
I’ll offer to do some of my mooring neighbors’ boats and re-coup a few bucks 
from my diving toys.

 

Regarding bottom paint. I do use ablative paint (Micron CSC). It works well in 
Narragansett Bay and I like that it gets thinner as I clean it. At the mooring 
I’m pretty much all set with the best practice Nazis.

 

Burt  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:33 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

 

Put a checkmark for me in the column of 50’ hose with regulator and a tank 
sitting on the dock. Works well without all the hassle of a BCD. Although I 
can’t really “stand” on the bottom cleaning the bottom is not a terribly 
strenuous activity.

 

Saves much money from having a diver clean the bottom, especially if you race…

 

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit  

 

On Dec 22, 2014, at 10:03 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

I also clean Touché's bottom myself. I have a 50 hose and a Conshelf XIV 
regulator I bought off eBay.  The hose is from  
 browniesmarinegroup.com.  They also sell 
compressors but they're a wee bit pricey. 

 

I just leave the tank on the pier and dive. I have a 5/3 wetsuit and weight 
belt. Helps to have a shallow slip so I can stand on the bottom and press up. 

 

You might cruise eBay for a used dive or tank filling compressor. You don't 
need to be certified to fill your own tanks. 

 

Dennis C.

Touché 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone


On Dec 22, 2014, at 6:25 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Happy holidays to all!

 

Jack, how do you clean your hull? Do you do it yourself or hire it out. I am 
considering getting dive certified so I can get a set of tanks and air. Even 
with all the gear (weights, wet suit, etc.) I think it would be a lot less 
expensive in the long run and as a bonus, I would be certified to dive. Up here 
in the northeast I don’t think I would need to do it as often as you unless I 
start racing. It would also be nice to change my prop shaft zincs once during 
the season and deal with other various issues that might require me to work on 
the exterior of the hull below the water line.

 

Burt

On the hard in Massachusetts

 

From: CnC-List [  
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 8:10 AM
To:   jackbren...@bellsouth.net;  
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

 

Hello all another milestone past with the days now getting longer!

 

All the best to all you guys and happy holidays (whichever you may be 
celebrating)

 

Danny

Boatless

Massachusetts

 



-- Original Message --
From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List <  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: <  cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 19:02:03 -0500

Approximately 1,100 days TO haulout. (Every five years, with monthly hull 
cleanings in between.)

 

Jack Brennan

Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

 

From:   Paul Fountain via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 6:49 PM

To:   Rick Taillieu ;  
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

 

Sorry Rick 116 days 16 hours til Perception is launched ...

 

Count down started at haul out

Paul. :)

 


On Dec 21, 2014, at 5:52 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Same to you Russ.

 

Only 145 (ish) days until launch.

I know, somebody had to start the countdown.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

S

Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[ahycrace--- via CnC-List]

Gary
 I have been using a dri-diver for years now and the pad is shot. I 
can't find anyplace that will replace it I was wondering if we could by the 
stuff by the sq ft or sq yd hope someone can help on this. I think it is a 3m 
product I will keep looking for now.

   Gary Kolc 



 Gary Nylander via CnC-List  wrote: 
> There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you described. I 
> hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.
> 
> It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks to 
> a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen 
> cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a 
> plastic pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser 
> version with just a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore that 
> one out, I got the special model with the cylinders. The only downside is 
> that you cannot reach the keel.
> 
> I use it between diver trips.
> 
> Gary
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>   Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM
>   Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
> 
> 
>   I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some 
> flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom cleaning 
> at a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a mooring, and have to 
> work my way around the boat, tying the dinghy to the railing as I go. It 
> takes a little longer and a little more work, but it is still not that hard 
> to do. 
> 
>   I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate. I'm sure a diver 
> would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.  
> 
>   I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing the 
> broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In addition to 
> the pool noodle floation, I also added a curved extension made from plumbing 
> so that the broom head is offset from the boathook by about a foot. That 
> clearance makes all the difference in reaching the center area of the hull 
> without the boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some pictures of this 
> thing on my home computer. If I can find them, I'll post them somewhere on 
> the web.
> 
>   Bill Bina
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   On 12/23/2014 9:33 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> Put a checkmark for me in the column of 50’ hose with regulator and a 
> tank sitting on the dock. Works well without all the hassle of a BCD. 
> Although I can’t really “stand” on the bottom cleaning the bottom is not a 
> terribly strenuous activity. 
> 
> 
> Saves much money from having a diver clean the bottom, especially if you 
> race…
> 
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> 
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> page at:
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> 


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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat > Micron 66

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I used 66 one year in Solomons MD.  While it worked through the year just
fine, the day I hauled the boat the paint pealed off in sheets as soon as
the water dried.  A discussion with Micron revealed that that is common if
the paint is used in freshwater.  They didn't expect the brackish waters of
the middle Chesapeake Bay to do that but I was also up a small tributary
and close to shore.  They apologized and quickly issued a refund for the
paint and the sanding/cleaning and repainting with CSC.

So, as others have mentioned, 66 is a highly rated paint which I would
gladly use but be warned it must only be used in saltwater.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 23, 2014 4:50 PM, "Nauset Beach via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Bottom paint effectiveness, like politics, is all local.  I have had
> Micron 66 for the past 6 years and the bottom has to be cleaned every 2
> weeks from mid July through September.  That is considerably better than
> the VC Offshore I had previously which had to be cleaned every week.  We
> are club racing weekly and 10+ weekend regattas or races each summer.
>
>
>
> As a comparison to Doug's harbor, if the speedo paddle wheel is left in
> for 4 days during that period it is completely fouled with shrimp and
> slime.  So at the end of every weekend the speedo is pulled.
>
>
>
> Am in salt water though in a dammed river estuary and when there are heavy
> rains the "river" flows over the spillway and the harbor probably gets a
> little brackish.  Also am certain there is no shortage of fertilizer run
> off from the lawns of the homes on both shores.
>
>
>
> Micron 66 seems to be one of the better paints and it certainly is one of
> the most expensive.
>
>
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Douglas
> Mountjoy via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 2:44 PM
> *To:* Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
>
>
>
> I have used Micron 66 and got 4.5 years with out cleaning except for
> knocking off the big chunks. Now I am using Blue Sea 45% ablative. still no
> cleaning. Have a diver replace my shaft zincs twice a year, he will also
> clean the paddle wheels for the knot meters. When the bottom shows signs of
> being dirty it is time to go cruising.
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> Pegasus LF38
>
> Just west of Ballard, WA
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 10:02 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure
> washed this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the
> hull looked about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by
> the yard.  I am most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of
> Micon 66 compared to Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF
> paints used in this area.
>
>
>
> The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains
> higher levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint
> would likely reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a
> typical boat that races.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert
> Abbott via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
> *To:* Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
>
>
>
> Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron
> 66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least
> it is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom cleaning every
> month, maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just a thought.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it
> was my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do
> the keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too
> aggressive on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-)
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
>
> There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you
> described. I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.
>
>
>
> It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks
> to a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen
> cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a
> plastic pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser
> version with just a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore
> that one out, I got the special model with the cylinders. The only downside
> is that you cannot reach the keel.
>
>
>
> I use it between diver trips.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> - Original Message -
>
> *From:* Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list