Re: Stus-List Keel Bolts
I'd be interested in the answer to that question as well. I do know that on the 35-1, the sump under the mast step is molded into the hull, and the aft part of that sump is the mating surface to the downward sloping forward end of the keel, the source of the smile. The forwardmost 3/4" bolt goes through wood blocks under a thin upper layer of fiberglass that are fitted into the aft part of the sump. (Don't ask me how I know, but it had something to do with an awful crunching sound that happened when I torqued the 3/4" bolt...). I have the construction drawing for the 35-1, from South Shore, it shows the wood in the sump but not too much detail about the area under the six 1" bolts aft -it refers to another plan. It implies that that the six "pedestals", for lack of better word, in the bilge on which the nuts bear are part of the bottom of the hull molding and the lead is directly in contact on the outside, ie., there's no stub or spacer between the hull and lead, but it's not clear. I too would like to know what's actually there -anyone? Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/26/2014 5:51 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote: Thanks. I forgot to mention tightening the keel bolts is NOT done in the water! Does anyone know if the 35 MK I and II keel stub is glassed on after the fact or molded as part of the hull? Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com Coquina C&C 35 MK I -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hoyne via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2014 3:18 PM To: Will Harris; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel Bolts Thanks for the advice: On Nov 26, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Will Harris via CnC-List wrote: I've been following the conversation about Keel Bolts and cracks. While we didn't build your boats, I do have some general advice... Cracks - It is easy to think that a crack indicates something is breaking. Really, it means that something HAS BROKEN. A crack around the keel is potentially very serious. If it is just the C&C smile, not as serious, but if you find cracks in the laminate, or the structure or any of the tabbing, get it looked at! They will not heal themselves, and the consequences are really, really bad. Addressed early, the repairs may not even be too expensive. When I get on the hard in the spring i can check where the cracks are coming from and how serious they are (I hope) Torque In some of these threads, it seems like people are going to extremes torqing up the nuts. My guess is that you are trying to lift the keel up to the hull with the nuts. Don't do that! I don't know the exact bolts you may have, so I can't give you exact numbers, but that information is easy to find. All over torquing does is increases the odds of stripping, galling or breaking a bolt. Even if you don't cause your keel to fall off, breaking a bolt is a huge headache. I agree. There is no point in over torquing and trying to lift the keel while the boat is in the water seems difficult and senseless. The proper tool is the Travellift and a good operator. To re-seat the keel, make sure that the travellift sits the hull down flush on the keel. The nuts are just there to keep it there. We will see what happens in the spring!! Happy Thanksgiving Hope you all have a Happy Thanksgiving and eat lots of turkey!! Bill Will Harris C&C Yachts ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations?
I bought a smaller 4-gallon Shop Vac 5 years or so ago that seems to be like the Energizer bunny. I think I paid $30 or $40 for it on sale. It’s too large to keep on board but small enough to easily throw in the trunk of the car and it sits nicely in the cockpit when I’m using it. I found an extra hose kit at a thrift shop for $5 so I have enough hose to reach just about anywhere in the boat when it is in the cockpit. One nice thing is that this unit takes the standard bags and filters that are used on the majority of the Shop Vac products ... so I have a Hepa filter installed that really cuts down on the fine dust exhausted out the unit. The filter came from Lee Valley tools ... they (amazingly) had the best price I could find. I’m on my 2nd filter right now ... sanding the bottom after using Soy Strip killed the 1st one along with my big shop vac (although that one was a used unit I picked up off Craigslist). Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet C&C 27 MkIII From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2014 1:26 PM To: 'Kevin Driscoll' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations? I bot a Sears a couple years ago, and I luv it. Well, maybe I’m getting carried away, but I have tried Sharks, larger shop vacs, but this one is perfect. I tried to find it on their site, to no avail, but they may still have it. It was one of the smallest, maybe 2 or 2 .5 gal. It has a little felt bag instead of the regular filters. Make sure you get one that blows as well as sucks. I use it to suck on the faucet to prime it in the spring, Blow it in the fall to clean out the lines, (oops, this is starting to sound a little graphic, sorry) sometimes when I am sanding or using the dremel I hold it nearby to suck up the dust. Oh, and I have even used it to clean! The great thing is, it came with a little side attachment point, and I screwed the attachment point under the chart table, in completely wasted space. It just hangs there, and You would never know it was there, and I can run it with the inverter when out. Bill Coleman C&C 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2014 1:14 PM To: C&C List Subject: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations? Looking for recommendations for a wet / dry vac for boat and some home. 110v is fine, but prefer something other than the huge ~16 gallon versions. Suggestions and links are welcome. Of course…price/value is a consideration. Thanks! ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations?
Thanks everybody! On Fri, Nov 28, 2014, 8:35 AM Peter Fell via CnC-List wrote: > I bought a smaller 4-gallon Shop Vac 5 years or so ago that seems to be > like the Energizer bunny. I think I paid $30 or $40 for it on sale. It’s > too large to keep on board but small enough to easily throw in the trunk of > the car and it sits nicely in the cockpit when I’m using it. I found an > extra hose kit at a thrift shop for $5 so I have enough hose to reach just > about anywhere in the boat when it is in the cockpit. One nice thing is > that this unit takes the standard bags and filters that are used on the > majority of the Shop Vac products ... so I have a Hepa filter installed > that really cuts down on the fine dust exhausted out the unit. > > The filter came from Lee Valley tools ... they (amazingly) had the best > price I could find. I’m on my 2nd filter right now ... sanding the bottom > after using Soy Strip killed the 1st one along with my big shop vac > (although that one was a used unit I picked up off Craigslist). > > Peter Fell > Sidney, BC > Cygnet > C&C 27 MkIII > > *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 26, 2014 1:26 PM > *To:* 'Kevin Driscoll' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations? > > > I bot a Sears a couple years ago, and I luv it. Well, maybe I’m getting > carried away, but I have tried Sharks, larger shop vacs, but this one is > perfect. I tried to find it on their site, to no avail, but they may still > have it. It was one of the smallest, maybe 2 or 2 .5 gal. > > It has a little felt bag instead of the regular filters. Make sure you get > one that blows as well as sucks. I use it to suck on the faucet to prime > it in the spring, Blow it in the fall to clean out the lines, (oops, this > is starting to sound a little graphic, sorry) sometimes when I am sanding > or using the dremel I hold it nearby to suck up the dust. Oh, and I have > even used it to clean! > > The great thing is, it came with a little side attachment point, and I > screwed the attachment point under the chart table, in completely wasted > space. It just hangs there, and You would never know it was there, and I > can run it with the inverter when out. > > > > Bill Coleman > > C&C 39 > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin > Driscoll via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 26, 2014 1:14 PM > *To:* C&C List > *Subject:* Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations? > > > > Looking for recommendations for a wet / dry vac for boat and some home. > 110v is fine, but prefer something other than the huge ~16 gallon versions. > Suggestions and links are welcome. Of course…price/value is a consideration. > > > > Thanks! > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 106, Issue 75
e the cracks are > coming > > from and how serious they are (I hope) > > > >> Torque > >> > >> In some of these threads, it seems like people are going to extremes > > torqing up the nuts. My guess is that you are trying to lift the keel > up to > > the hull with the nuts. Don't do that! I don't know the exact bolts you > > may have, so I can't give you exact numbers, but that information is > easy to > > find. > >> All over torquing does is increases the odds of stripping, galling or > > breaking a bolt. Even if you don't cause your keel to fall off, breaking > a > > bolt is a huge headache. > > > > I agree. There is no point in over torquing and trying to lift the keel > > while the boat is in the water seems difficult and senseless. > > > >> The proper tool is the Travellift and a good operator. To re-seat the > > keel, make sure that the travellift sits the hull down flush on the keel. > > The nuts are just there to keep it there. > > > > We will see what happens in the spring!! > > > >> Happy Thanksgiving > > Hope you all have a Happy Thanksgiving and eat lots of turkey!! > > > > Bill > > > > > >> Will Harris > >> C&C Yachts > >> ___ > >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > >> > >> Email address: > >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > > page at: > >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > >> > > > > ___ > > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > > > Email address: > > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > > page at: > > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > > ___ > > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > > > Email address: > > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > > > > > -- > > Message: 5 > Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2014 08:34:06 -0800 > From: "Peter Fell" > To: > Subject: Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations? > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I bought a smaller 4-gallon Shop Vac 5 years or so ago that seems to be > like the Energizer bunny. I think I paid $30 or $40 for it on sale. It?s > too large to keep on board but small enough to easily throw in the trunk of > the car and it sits nicely in the cockpit when I?m using it. I found an > extra hose kit at a thrift shop for $5 so I have enough hose to reach just > about anywhere in the boat when it is in the cockpit. One nice thing is > that this unit takes the standard bags and filters that are used on the > majority of the Shop Vac products ... so I have a Hepa filter installed > that really cuts down on the fine dust exhausted out the unit. > > The filter came from Lee Valley tools ... they (amazingly) had the best > price I could find. I?m on my 2nd filter right now ... sanding the bottom > after using Soy Strip killed the 1st one along with my big shop vac > (although that one was a used unit I picked up off Craigslist). > > Peter Fell > Sidney, BC > Cygnet > C&C 27 MkIII > > From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2014 1:26 PM > To: 'Kevin Driscoll' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations? > > I bot a Sears a couple years ago, and I luv it. Well, maybe I?m getting > carried away, but I have tried Sharks, larger shop vacs, but this one is > perfect. I tried to find it on their site, to no avail, but they may still > have it. It was one of the smallest, maybe 2 or 2 .5 gal. > > It has a little felt bag instead of the regular filters. Make sure you get > one that blows as well as sucks. I use it to suck on the faucet to prime > it in the spring, Blow it in the fall to clean out the lines, (oops, this > is starting to sound a little graphic, sorry) sometimes when I am sanding > or using the dremel I hold it nearby to suck up the dust. Oh, and I have > even used it to clean! > > The great thing is, it came with a little side attachment point, and I > screwed the attachment point under the chart table, in comp
