A few years back I owned a 1973 C&C 35 MK 1 and there was no sign of a seam
at all.Keel joint was perfect with no visible signs of a smile.
Biggest concern was the mast step and the wood underneath..

On Fri, Nov 28, 2014 at 12:00 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re:  Engine Seacock for a C&C 44 1987 (D.J. Platt)
>    2. Re:  Wet / Dry Vac recommendations? (Bill Coleman)
>    3.  Folding prop (Ted Drossos)
>    4. Re:  Keel Bolts (Neil Gallagher)
>    5. Re:  Wet / Dry Vac recommendations? (Peter Fell)
>    6. Re:  Wet / Dry Vac recommendations? (Kevin Driscoll)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2014 08:52:27 -0500
> From: "D.J. Platt" <w7...@yahoo.ca>
> To: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net>,     <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Seacock for a C&C 44 1987
> Message-ID: <E2DE82996414400FB25A34700817A5DC@ileenPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> C&C seemed to use different parts on the same boats.  My 1982 32 has Groco
> seacocks with the rubber plugs.  My friends 1981 has a seacock with a
> tapered bronze plug, presumably from that years low cost supplier.  As Rick
> points out, a seacock is seacock.
>
>
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2014 2:17 PM
> To: 'Bill McNeese' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Seacock for a C&C 44 1987
>
>
> I don't know the manufacturer, but a seacock is pretty much a seacock. You
> can buy a bronze one made by Groco or marlon made by Forespar. There are
> other manufacturers as well. Baically you need to know either the thread
> size on the thru hull, or the size of the hose connected to the seacock.
>
>
>
> When I redid the engine on my 38 I wanted to change the orientation of the
> hose barb on the seacock. The bronze thru hull had straight threads for a
> ?" thru hull, so I bought the corresponding ?" Groco seacock, and a 90
> degree bronze hose barb for straight thread to ?" hose. As someone has
> already pointed out, hose barbs come with either a straight thread
> connection, or a tapered pipe thread, and it is not a good idea to put
> tapered thread into the straight thread of a seacock.
>
>
>
> My 38, with a 36hp diesel, used a ?" hose for cooling water intake. Your
> engine might use a larger hose depending on manufacturer and size of the
> engine.
>
>
>
> Good Luck
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> McNeese via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2014 11:23 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Engine Seacock for a C&C 44 1987
>
>
>
> Does anyone know the manufacture of the Main Engine supply seacock on a
> 1987 C&C 44, and it's dimension?
>
> Bill McNeese
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2014 19:36:50 -0500
> From: Bill Coleman <colt...@verizon.net>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations?
> Message-ID: <njf4i5q80pdm0ourmpax5bf0.1417135010...@email.android.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> The Sears flyer In today's sales has the vac I have, ?I think,
> SKU# 00912001
>
> ?Bill Coleman
> C&C 39
>
> <div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: Wally Bryant via
> CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> </div><div>Date:11/26/2014  2:09 PM
> (GMT-05:00) </div><div>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com </div><div>Subject: Re:
> Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations? </div><div>
> </div>
>
>
> Kevin wrote:
> > Looking for recommendations for  a wet / dry vac for boat and some home.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2014 22:35:28 -0500
> From: Ted Drossos <replus...@aol.com>
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Folding prop
> Message-ID: <8d1d8d37d36c434-1470-22...@webmail-vd021.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I have a 2 blade Flex-O-Fold prop and never experienced this type of
> problem. How long has it been since your boat was last hauled and the prop
> checked? Those props are pretty bullet proof. I would venture to guess that
> there is something stuck between the gears like a build up of heavy slime
> which is preventing the blades from opening easily. Try placing the
> transmission in forward or reverse and then back into neutral a couple of
> dozen times and see if that loosens the blades up a bit. I don't believe
> that greasing the pins is necessary as there normally should be very little
> friction between the clean metal mating parts.
>
>
> Ted Drossos
> C&C 29-2
> H2OT
> Long Island, NY
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2014 11:15:19 -0500
> From: Neil Gallagher <njgallag...@optonline.net>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel Bolts
> Message-ID: <54789f97.9070...@optonline.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> I'd be interested in the answer to that question as well.
>
> I do know that on the 35-1, the sump under the mast step is molded into
> the hull, and the aft part of that sump is the mating surface to the
> downward sloping forward end of the keel, the source of the smile. The
> forwardmost  3/4" bolt  goes through wood blocks under a thin upper
> layer of fiberglass that are fitted into the aft part of the sump.
> (Don't ask me how I know, but it had something to do with an awful
> crunching sound that happened when I torqued the 3/4" bolt...).
>
> I have the construction drawing for the 35-1, from South Shore, it shows
> the wood in the sump but not too much detail about the area under the
> six 1" bolts aft -it refers to another plan.  It implies that that the
> six "pedestals", for lack of better word, in the bilge on which the nuts
> bear are part of the bottom of the hull molding and the lead is directly
> in contact on the outside, ie., there's no stub or spacer between the
> hull and lead, but it's not clear.  I too would like to know what's
> actually there -anyone?
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly  35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
>
> On 11/26/2014 5:51 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
> > Thanks. I forgot to mention tightening the keel bolts is NOT done in the
> > water!
> > Does anyone know if the 35 MK I and II keel stub is glassed on after the
> > fact or molded as part of the hull?
> >
> >
> > Joe Della Barba
> > j...@dellabarba.com
> > Coquina
> > C&C 35 MK I
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> > Hoyne via CnC-List
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2014 3:18 PM
> > To: Will Harris; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel Bolts
> >
> > Thanks for the advice:
> >
> >> On Nov 26, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Will Harris via CnC-List
> > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >> I've been following the conversation about Keel Bolts and cracks.  While
> > we didn't build your boats, I do have some general advice...
> >> Cracks -  It is easy to think that a crack indicates something is
> > breaking.  Really, it means that something HAS BROKEN.  A crack around
> the
> > keel is potentially very serious.  If it is just the C&C smile, not as
> > serious, but if you find cracks in the laminate, or the structure or any
> of
> > the tabbing, get it looked at!
> >> They will not heal themselves, and the consequences are really, really
> > bad.  Addressed early, the repairs may not even be too expensive.
> >
> > When I get on the hard in the spring i can check where the cracks are
> coming
> > from and how serious they are (I hope)
> >
> >> Torque
> >>
> >> In some of these threads, it seems like people are going to extremes
> > torqing up the nuts.  My guess is that you are trying to lift the keel
> up to
> > the hull with the nuts.  Don't do that!  I don't know the exact bolts you
> > may have, so I can't give you exact numbers, but that information is
> easy to
> > find.
> >> All over torquing does is increases the odds of stripping, galling or
> > breaking a bolt. Even if you don't cause your keel to fall off, breaking
> a
> > bolt is a huge headache.
> >
> > I agree. There is no point in over torquing and trying to lift the keel
> > while the boat  is in the water seems difficult and senseless.
> >
> >> The proper tool is the Travellift and a good operator.  To re-seat the
> > keel, make sure that the travellift sits the hull down flush on the keel.
> > The nuts are just there to keep it there.
> >
> > We will see what happens in the spring!!
> >
> >> Happy Thanksgiving
> > Hope you all have a Happy Thanksgiving and eat lots of turkey!!
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >> Will Harris
> >> C&C Yachts
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >>
> >> Email address:
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> > page at:
> >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> > page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2014 08:34:06 -0800
> From: "Peter Fell" <prf...@gmail.com>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations?
> Message-ID: <b16ea2f7d36640839ceb5c2309ed9...@intra.camosun.bc.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I bought a smaller 4-gallon Shop Vac 5 years or so ago that seems to be
> like the Energizer bunny. I think I paid $30 or $40 for it on sale. It?s
> too large to keep on board but small enough to easily throw in the trunk of
> the car and it sits nicely in the cockpit when I?m using it. I found an
> extra hose kit at a thrift shop for $5 so I have enough hose to reach just
> about anywhere in the boat when it is in the cockpit. One nice thing is
> that this unit takes the standard bags and filters that are used on the
> majority of the Shop Vac products ... so I have a Hepa filter installed
> that really cuts down on the fine dust exhausted out the unit.
>
> The filter came from Lee Valley tools ... they (amazingly) had the best
> price I could find. I?m on my 2nd filter right now ... sanding the bottom
> after using Soy Strip killed the 1st one .... along with my big shop vac
> (although that one was a used unit I picked up off Craigslist).
>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
>
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2014 1:26 PM
> To: 'Kevin Driscoll' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations?
>
> I bot a Sears a couple years ago, and I luv it. Well, maybe I?m getting
> carried away, but I have tried Sharks, larger shop vacs, but this one is
> perfect.  I tried to find it on their site, to no avail, but they may still
> have it. It was one of the smallest, maybe 2 or 2 .5 gal.
>
> It has a little felt bag instead of the regular filters. Make sure you get
> one that blows as well as sucks.  I use it to suck on the faucet to prime
> it in the spring, Blow it in the fall to clean out the lines, (oops, this
> is starting to sound a little graphic, sorry)  sometimes when I am sanding
> or using the dremel I hold it nearby to suck up the dust.  Oh, and I have
> even used it to clean!
>
> The great thing is, it came with a little side attachment point, and I
> screwed the attachment point under the chart table, in completely wasted
> space.  It just hangs there, and You would never know it was there, and I
> can run it with the inverter when out.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin
> Driscoll via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2014 1:14 PM
> To: C&C List
> Subject: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations?
>
>
>
> Looking for recommendations for  a wet / dry vac for boat and some home.
> 110v is fine, but prefer something other than the huge ~16 gallon versions.
> Suggestions and links are welcome. Of course?price/value is a consideration.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2014 16:40:16 +0000
> From: Kevin Driscoll <kevindrisc...@gmail.com>
> To: Peter Fell <prf...@gmail.com>, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations?
> Message-ID:
>         <
> ca+lfbyr5hxfmkmfi1aarsfagxygfixsrqe8nwwruvrsnuwl...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Thanks everybody!
>
> On Fri, Nov 28, 2014, 8:35 AM Peter Fell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> >   I bought a smaller 4-gallon Shop Vac 5 years or so ago that seems to be
> > like the Energizer bunny. I think I paid $30 or $40 for it on sale. It?s
> > too large to keep on board but small enough to easily throw in the trunk
> of
> > the car and it sits nicely in the cockpit when I?m using it. I found an
> > extra hose kit at a thrift shop for $5 so I have enough hose to reach
> just
> > about anywhere in the boat when it is in the cockpit. One nice thing is
> > that this unit takes the standard bags and filters that are used on the
> > majority of the Shop Vac products ... so I have a Hepa filter installed
> > that really cuts down on the fine dust exhausted out the unit.
> >
> > The filter came from Lee Valley tools ... they (amazingly) had the best
> > price I could find. I?m on my 2nd filter right now ... sanding the bottom
> > after using Soy Strip killed the 1st one .... along with my big shop vac
> > (although that one was a used unit I picked up off Craigslist).
> >
> > Peter Fell
> > Sidney, BC
> > Cygnet
> > C&C 27 MkIII
> >
> >  *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 26, 2014 1:26 PM
> > *To:* 'Kevin Driscoll' <kevindrisc...@gmail.com> ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations?
> >
> >
> > I bot a Sears a couple years ago, and I luv it. Well, maybe I?m getting
> > carried away, but I have tried Sharks, larger shop vacs, but this one is
> > perfect.  I tried to find it on their site, to no avail, but they may
> still
> > have it. It was one of the smallest, maybe 2 or 2 .5 gal.
> >
> > It has a little felt bag instead of the regular filters. Make sure you
> get
> > one that blows as well as sucks.  I use it to suck on the faucet to prime
> > it in the spring, Blow it in the fall to clean out the lines, (oops, this
> > is starting to sound a little graphic, sorry)  sometimes when I am
> sanding
> > or using the dremel I hold it nearby to suck up the dust.  Oh, and I have
> > even used it to clean!
> >
> > The great thing is, it came with a little side attachment point, and I
> > screwed the attachment point under the chart table, in completely wasted
> > space.  It just hangs there, and You would never know it was there, and I
> > can run it with the inverter when out.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill Coleman
> >
> > C&C 39
> >
> > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Kevin
> > Driscoll via CnC-List
> > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 26, 2014 1:14 PM
> > *To:* C&C List
> > *Subject:* Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations?
> >
> >
> >
> > Looking for recommendations for  a wet / dry vac for boat and some home.
> > 110v is fine, but prefer something other than the huge ~16 gallon
> versions.
> > Suggestions and links are welcome. Of course?price/value is a
> consideration.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> > page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> > page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >
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> Subject: Digest Footer
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 106, Issue 75
> *****************************************
>
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