Re: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal
I have removed both handrails and had new ones made up in stainless. I made a thin plywood pattern of the holes so the shop making up the new rails could match the existing holes exactly. I haven't installed them yet. The boat will be indoors for a while this winter and it will be done then. The shop made a beautiful job of them. These guys: http://www.anchorhatches.com/ I couldn't figure out how to get the headliner out without destroying something so I left it in place. I removed the trim surrounding the hatch in the heads so I could see into the space between the headliner and the cabin top to see the nut on the bolt holding the handrail in place. I had to use a small mirror to actually get to see it. This sort of mirror: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDYwMA==/z/hOwAAOSwbqpT9Tqi/$_3.JPG I took the mirror off the head wall and removed all the screws holding the headliner to the bulkhead between the head and the nav station. I was able then to gently pry the headliner away from the bulkhead and wedge it to leave enough space to slip a deep socket with a couple of extensions and U joints up into the space and get onto the nut to take it off, watching the progress of the socket in the mirror. Patience was required. Fortunately I had some that day... I expect installing the nut on the new handrail may be the reverse of this procedure but I may just end up making a hole in the head liner and cover it somehow or patch it afterward if the socket and mirror approach doesn't work. Unfortunately the headliner is almost vertical under the nut so the hole won't be small. I do like the idea of being able to get at this nut in the future though. Ken H. On 22 November 2014 at 05:49, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Any of you 37+ owners know how to get to the aft most mounting screw on > the port handrail? It looks like it's inside nut is above the headliner of > the head or maybe above the forward bulkhead of the head, between the salon > headliner and the head headliner. > > I am fine pulling the head's headliner except that it looks like it is > laminated to the cabin top (near the windows at a minimum). Same with the > significantly larger salon headliner. I think an access hole and plug are > in order but where best to put one is the question. > > Thanks guys, > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions
I have twice had fish get sucked up into the engine. Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I j...@dellabarba.com From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2014 12:01 AM To: Joel Aronson; 1 CnC List Subject: Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions I pick blocked exhaust elbow for $500. Trace the water flow, pull hoses, look in orifices. I had to drill out the 90* fitting between the engine and the exhaust because it was totally blocked with hard crud. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 22 November 2014 at 13:02, Joel Aronson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Dan, Welcome to our C&c family! You may be able to tighten the bolts along the toe rail. It tales 2 ppeople - one inside, one out. There is butyl tape in the joint. Overheating could be a stuck impeller part or blocked exhaust elbow (common on Yanmars). Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Saturday, November 22, 2014, Gary Nylander via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: A relatively easy way to check further about your engine - pull the cylinder head. My 2QM15 had a crack between one of the valve seats and the water passage. Replacing the head was not cheap, but a lot easier than pulling and still only having to replace the head. Once the head is off you can check the cylinders and whatever else you may think may be wrong. Gary - Original Message - From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: C&C List ; Dennis C. Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2014 2:21 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions To add on to Dennis's comment about exploring the overheating while keeping the engine onboard. I had a mechinist who was very familiar with Yanmar tell me that there was very little reason to ever pull a Yanmar. According to him the bearings are significantly over built. So, assuming you keep up with the oil level and changes, a bottom job is probably not ever going to be needed. Barring a cracked block or blown piston the only other thing that you might need to pull the engine for is stuck rings. I've had good luck getting rings unstuck twice now without having to disassemble the engine. So have a blast working the top end as much as tou like. You'll probably also find that there are a bunch of interferences that would have made getting the engine out a very big job. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Nov 22, 2014 9:53 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Welcome, Dan First, the leaks on the toe rails. They should currently be sealed with butyl rubber. You can tighten the fasteners a bit. Have someone hold from above and tighten from below. Do NOT overtighten or you'll squeeze the butyl out. I don't worry too much about toe rail leaks but if the above procedure doesn't completely stop leakage, try multiple applications of Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure. Just run beads down the inboard edge of the toe rail/deck joint. Eventually it will seal most leakage. As for the engine removal, you can use the boom but not for lifting. Use your main halyard if it's in good condition to support the weight. Rig a purchase from the boom end to the halyard to haul in/out along the boom. Tie the halyard to the boom loosely with a loop, unfasten the engine mounts from the support rail, lift engine slightly, slide it out of the compartment then lift clear and swing to pier using purchase to move it outboard. Having said that, I'd thoroughly explore the overheating issue before pulling the engine. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Nov 22, 2014 6:48 AM, "Dan via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: I’m relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school using 14’ Holders, then 21’ day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+ years of hang gliding. I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23’ Ericson and a 1977 26’ C&C (my favorite). I’ve owned the Ericson about a year and the C&C 4 months. The C&C is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more sails than I know what to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this winter (working on how to remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating when I bought the vessel, got a very good deal on the boat. I toyed with the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on the stern but would rather not drill holes in her plus I have all the maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I’m a mechanic. Sorry babbling. Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast, she sails easily and I can’t wait to get her out this coming spring. I’ll sail the Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on the Yanmar. I do have a couple questions if I may: * I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft are of the cabin, suspect coming from the
Stus-List helm seat
I've been building a new helm seat to replace the standard C&C seat that is too high for my wife and generally uncomfortable. Nothing revolutionary, not perfect, but it should be an improvement. It is narrower than the original so there is more room behind the wheel. Bought the teak on Ebay. Bronze screws, wood glue and epoxy, Cetol natural. I'll probably make a cushion out of closed cell foam and sunbrella. Photo is here: www.facebook/theoffice35. Joel 35/3 Annapolis -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List BIRW Charter
I am thinking/dreaming of doing BIRW in June and would need to charter a boat that requires a crew of ~ 8, most of whom would probably stay on board to minimize logistical problems as well as cost. As a C&Cer, would prefer to charter the same so I thought I would check with the list for possible charters or advice about the area/race. Any hints/advice would be welcome. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb list Sent from my iPad ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Using 12v trickle charger to test components?
Can I do this? I would like to check a few things and this is easier off the boat. It's a small trickle charger. Can I clamp on the alligator clips and test away? Thanks ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Using 12v trickle charger to test components?
Kevin, I would think that it would depend on the amps it puts out and what the amp draw is of what you're testing. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | NCC-1701-B City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- Sent from my iPad Air iPad. iTypos. iApologize > On Nov 23, 2014, at 10:01 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List > wrote: > > Can I do this? I would like to check a few things and this is easier off the > boat. It's a small trickle charger. Can I clamp on the alligator clips and > test away? > > Thanks > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List FW Head
Winter project is to add a freshwater head. Anyone have experience with the Sealand Masterflush series? John ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Using 12v trickle charger to test components?
It might? Depends on what you are testing; a Navigation instrument might need an amp, or a light will need a little more, or a pump may need 5amps, or a windless may need 20amps. Trickle chargers are usually rated for 2amps. Not sure of consequences if it doesn't work. Best to protect the charger w an inline fuse and the device w an inline fuse of the right size. There are several devices that come with 120AC to 12VDC transformers. My Garmin GPS and a West Marine VHF came w one. I have several from kid's toys, too. You can also plug the device into the 12V socket in your car. Let us know how that goes? Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2014 10:01:48 PM Subject: Stus-List Using 12v trickle charger to test components? Can I do this? I would like to check a few things and this is easier off the boat. It's a small trickle charger. Can I clamp on the alligator clips and test away? Thanks ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
