I have twice had fish get sucked up into the engine.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

j...@dellabarba.com

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2014 12:01 AM
To: Joel Aronson; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

 

I pick blocked exhaust elbow for $500.

Trace the water flow, pull hoses, look in orifices. I had to drill out the 90* 
fitting between the engine and the exhaust because it was totally blocked with 
hard crud.




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 22 November 2014 at 13:02, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Dan,

 

 

Welcome to our C&c family!  You may be able to tighten the bolts along the toe 
rail.  It tales 2 ppeople - one inside, one out.  There is butyl tape in the 
joint.  

 

Overheating could be a stuck impeller part or blocked exhaust elbow (common on 
Yanmars).

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 


On Saturday, November 22, 2014, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

A relatively easy way to check further about your engine - pull the cylinder 
head. My 2QM15 had a crack between one of the valve seats and the water 
passage. Replacing the head was not cheap, but a lot easier than pulling and 
still only having to replace the head. Once the head is off you can check the 
cylinders and whatever else you may think may be wrong. 

 

Gary

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 

To: C&C List ; Dennis C. 

Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2014 2:21 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

 

To add on to Dennis's comment about exploring the overheating while keeping the 
engine onboard.  I had a mechinist who was very familiar with Yanmar tell me 
that there was very little reason to ever pull a Yanmar.  According to him the 
bearings are significantly over built.  So, assuming you keep up with the oil 
level and changes, a bottom job is probably not ever going to be needed.  

Barring a cracked block or blown piston the only other thing that you might 
need to pull the engine for is stuck rings.  I've had good luck getting rings 
unstuck twice now without having to disassemble the engine.  So have a blast 
working the top end as much as tou like.  

You'll probably also find that there are a bunch of interferences that would 
have made getting the engine out a very big job.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 22, 2014 9:53 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Welcome, Dan

First, the leaks on the toe rails.  They should currently be sealed with butyl 
rubber.  You can tighten the fasteners a bit.  Have someone hold from above and 
tighten from below.  Do NOT overtighten or you'll squeeze the butyl out.  

I don't worry too much about toe rail leaks but if the above procedure doesn't 
completely stop leakage, try multiple applications of Captain Tolleys Creeping 
Crack Cure.  Just run beads down the inboard edge of the toe rail/deck joint.  
Eventually it will seal most leakage.

As for the engine removal, you can use the boom but not for lifting.  Use your 
main halyard if it's in good condition to support the weight.  Rig a purchase 
from the boom end to the halyard to haul in/out along the boom.  Tie the 
halyard to the boom loosely with a loop, unfasten the engine mounts from the 
support rail, lift engine slightly, slide it out of the compartment then lift 
clear and swing to pier using purchase to move it outboard.

Having said that, I'd thoroughly explore the overheating issue before pulling 
the engine.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Nov 22, 2014 6:48 AM, "Dan via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I’m relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school using 14’ 
Holders, then 21’ day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+ years of hang 
gliding.  I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23’ Ericson and a 1977 26’ C&C 
(my favorite).  I’ve owned the Ericson about a year and the C&C 4 months.  The 
C&C is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more sails than I know what 
to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this winter (working on how to 
remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating when I bought the vessel, got a 
very good deal on the boat.  I toyed with the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on 
the stern but would rather not drill holes in her plus I have all the 
maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I’m a mechanic. Sorry babbling. 

 

Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast, she 
sails easily and I can’t wait to get her out this coming spring.  I’ll sail the 
Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on the Yanmar.

 

I do have a couple questions if I may:

 

*       I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft are 
of the cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of the boat - I 
know there is a name for them but it escapes me.  I’m wondering if I can just 
re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at this point and 
replacing the seals isn’t an option at this point.  What sealant would work 
best? 
*       Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine - weight 
under 200 lbs during the removal?  I can’t imagine trying to lift it out using 
just manpower - is there a “standard” for removing engines?  My idea is to use 
the boom protected of course and maybe set it up so the load is distributed 
over a wide area and a winch.  I don’t want to damage the boom but don’t know 
any other way of getting the engine out.  

Thanks for reading my dribble.. looking forward to learning all about sailing 
the C&C and eventually moving up to a 30+ foot boat, buy that is way down the 
road. 

 

Regards, 

 

 

Dan

Brownsville Marina, Bremerton, WA

 

 


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 <tel:301%20541%208551> 

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