Stus-List C&C for sale locally

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Guys, I thought this might be of some interest.  I friend of mine sent it to 
me yesterday. I have no affiliation with this boat what-so-ever. 79 C&C 36 for 
$20,500http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/boa/4705372237.html___
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 106, Issue 3

[Stephen Thorne via CnC-List]

Yea on several gulf of Mexico crossings we were in conditions with powerful 
following seas including one time from Key West to Pensacola where we surfed, 
literally surfed big waves for a few days.  GPS Speeds 11knts.  This was by far 
one of the most surreal and exhilarating sailing experiences .. so far.   Crew 
commented that boat felt very stable and i agreed we remained in control entire 
time.  Conditions were right - Broad reach-running in 18 - 20 knots.

Steve
C&C 34/36+
Deja Vu'


On Nov 1, 2014, at 4:31 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1.  Surfing C&C hulls 37R, plus or XL? (Dave Moore)
>   2. Re:  Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34 (Steve Thomas)
>   3. Re:  Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34 (Chuck S)
>   4.  atomic 4 fogging engine (jimmy kelly)
>   5. Re:  Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34 (Danny Haughey)
>   6. Re:  atomic 4 fogging engine (jimmy kelly)
>   7. Re:  Surfing C&C hulls 37R, plus or XL? (Ken Heaton)
>   8. Re:  Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34 (Josh Muckley)
>   9. Re:  Surfing C&C hulls 37R, plus or XL? (Josh Muckley)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2014 12:20:44 -0700
> From: Dave Moore 
> To: Robert Mazza ,"cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
>   
> Cc: C&C Mailing List 
> Subject: Stus-List Surfing C&C hulls 37R, plus or XL?
> Message-ID: <7d527018-b191-4ab2-968c-071923b86...@yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Any 37R, Plus or XL skippers like to comment on the willingness of their 
> boats to surf waves? 
> Thank you
> Dave
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 31, 2014, at 11:37 AM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>> As long as we are comparing "war stories", despite previously maligning IOR 
>> hulls, the fastest I've gone in a keel boat was on Marauder in the long 
>> distance race of the 1975 Canada's Cup on Lake St. Clair, when it was 
>> blowing the shingles off the roof, and we had a #2 on the spinnaker pole. 
>> The bow wave was breaking at the chain plates, and the speedo was pegged at 
>> it's max reading of 12 Kts for a long time. That was before GPS, so we 
>> really had no idea how fast we were going. And that was with a tiller 
>> steered boat. Marauder could out reach Golden Dazy easily, but couldn't 
>> touch her upwind. Dazy took the series,3-2, winning all the "inshore" races.
>> 
>> Rob Mazza
>> 
>> On Fri, Oct 31, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> The 35 MK I does not come close to planning like a modern sport boat.
>> 
>> The best I have done in flat water is 11 knots boatspeed with 50-60 knots on 
>> the stern and the working job up. At that speed the stern is sunk nearly to 
>> water level. In any kind of the waves the boat will surf/plane DOWN the 
>> waves, but you drop speed on the upside. Max speed I think I have ever seen 
>> is 15-16 knots surfing down 20 footers . The only C&C I have ever seen plane 
>> like a Laser would be the SR-21. I think the only true ?planing? C&C s would 
>> be the SR series and maybe the newest 30 foot model.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Joe Della Barba
>> 
>> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
>> Mazza via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, October 31, 2014 12:08 PM
>> To: Dave Moore
>> Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Planing/Surfing C&C hulls?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Not a definitive analysis, but my recollection is that the older CCA type 
>> hulls, C&C 35s, 43s, and certainly the 61s were better off the wind than the 
>> later IOR influenced hulls, which were better upwind than the older boats. 
>> However, it would be interesting to hear from owners on that subject.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, Oct 31, 2014 at 11:45 AM, Dave Moore  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Rob and Hank,
>> 
>> Did any of the C&C models have a particular strength in surfing (or planing) 
>> down wind in 15 to 20 knots true wind speed? Years ago I recall talking to 
>> Rob Ball about the importance of prismatic coefficient in surfing 
>> performance but I was remiss in not asking what C&C models have the 
>> strongest surfing potential. 
>> 
>> Thank you
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 
>> On Oct 30, 2014, at 3:14 PM, henry evans via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Rob,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Your knowledge of the history of C&C designs is truly amazing. I enjoyed 
>> reading your tutorial. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I never knew Eric was in the kitchen bus

Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Bridges are full of rebar and will turn an autopilot quite a bit. So will 
sitting near the fluxgate with an iPhone on your belt with the magnetic closing 
latch holster.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2014 11:42 PM
To: Rick Brass; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

We have a few magnetic anomalies around here, I know not to put Otto in charge 
anywhere near them. Most are on the charts. Some are scary finding them.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 November 2014 19:05, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Good rule, Dennis.

The bridge is, of course, iron and will alter the magnetic field seen by your 
compass to some greater or lesser extent, depending on the amount of iron and 
the proximity to your fluxgate compass.

I was sitting next to the tiller pilot on my 25 one night, and had my car keys 
in my hip pocket. When I got up to look at a channel marker I was passing near, 
the boat changed course rapidly. Suddenly I was not just “close to” the mark, 
my standing rigging was tangled in it.

It was a very expensive lesson in just how sensitive those little fluxgate 
compasses can be.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2014 9:25 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

Just a caution for those who regularly use an autosteerer.  The Admiral and I 
were using the wheelpilot (Simrad WP30) as we passed under the Dauphin Island 
last weekend on our way to Pensacola.
In the middle of the bridge, the wheelpilot went bonkers and steered hard to 
starboard.  Luckily I was right there and disengaged it before we hit the 
fenders guarding the passage.
No idea what caused it.  Underground cables, gremlins, space aliens, etc.?  
There was a line of overhead power cables but they were about a tenth of a mile 
behind us.
All I know is new rule for the boat now.  No autosteering through a bridge.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

My switch is held to a piece of VPC pipe using zip ties. Hard part was
figuring out how far up to drill thr holes for the ties.
Joel

On Sunday, November 2, 2014, Wally Bryant via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from
> McMaster-Carr.  I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull.  This
> was an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better now.
> However, I can replace the little bilge pump without pulling everything
> out, since it's hose clamped to the bracket.  That's turned out to be a
> good idea.
>
> 
>
> Wal
>
> Tom wrote:
>
>> I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower
>> the plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge.  Much
>> easier than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge.
>>
>> My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless
>> fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues?
>>
>
>
> ___
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>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

You get what you pay for..

 If you choose wisely it's not just the certification, it's the overall
 construction and performance. After careful consideration I bought this
 one:

http://www.miseagroup.com/solutions/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5_7&products_id=23&zenid=va2a254cabmkjgrsvlq56umv46

If you shop it right you can get it for a little less than 400.00 bucks.
400 bucks for a tricolor on a boat that's used on a lake ? The way I see
it, It's actually pretty cheap insurance to protect my family and favorite
toy from the lowest common denominator drunk redneck plowing into my boat
in the middle of the night.

And yes, the thing is nothing short of amazing in the way it's built
(beautiful machined / anodized aluminum,  thick Lexan lens. Military spec
circuitry, etc) and how it performs:  Brightest tri on the lake, You can
see it in the distance in broad daylight.. No kidding.  Also, the Windex is
brightly lit at night, the anchor light turn off automatically, even the
mounting is exceptional.

Also, it may be bad form on a seaway but when trying to ward-off drunk
rednecks on the lake, when we sail at night  my boat is lit like a
Christmas tree with the tri and running lights blazing, no worries about
being confused for a fishing trawler.

Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

I had a similar experience however after great confusion and frustration I 
tracked the problems down. I have a tiller with a Raymarine ST2000 that 
suggested that I needed to redesign my keel on the North Channel granite!
 
The two culprits?

1. VHF handheld on my waist belt.

2. a classic family 1940s stainless sailing knife with marlin spike.


  Don
  Viking 34 Life
  



 From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Sent: Monday, November 3, 2014 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!
 


Bridges are full of rebar and will turn an autopilot quite a bit. So will 
sitting near the fluxgate with an iPhone on your belt with the magnetic closing 
latch holster.
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2014 11:42 PM
To: Rick Brass; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!
 
We have a few magnetic anomalies around here, I know not to put Otto in charge 
anywhere near them. Most are on the charts. Some are scary finding them. 


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
 
On 2 November 2014 19:05, Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:
Good rule, Dennis.
> 
>The bridge is, of course, iron and will alter the magnetic field seen by your 
>compass to some greater or lesser extent, depending on the amount of iron and 
>the proximity to your fluxgate compass.
> 
>I was sitting next to the tiller pilot on my 25 one night, and had my car keys 
>in my hip pocket. When I got up to look at a channel marker I was passing 
>near, the boat changed course rapidly. Suddenly I was not just “close to” the 
>mark, my standing rigging was tangled in it.
> 
>It was a very expensive lesson in just how sensitive those little fluxgate 
>compasses can be.
> 
> 
>Rick Brass
>Washington, NC
> 
> 
> 
>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
>via CnC-List
>Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2014 9:25 PM
>To: CnClist
>Subject: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!
> 
>Just a caution for those who regularly use an autosteerer.  The Admiral and I 
>were using the wheelpilot (Simrad WP30) as we passed under the Dauphin Island 
>last weekend on our way to Pensacola.
>In the middle of the bridge, the wheelpilot went bonkers and steered hard to 
>starboard.  Luckily I was right there and disengaged it before we hit the 
>fenders guarding the passage.  
>No idea what caused it.  Underground cables, gremlins, space aliens, etc.? 
> There was a line of overhead power cables but they were about a tenth of a 
>mile behind us.
>All I know is new rule for the boat now.  No autosteering through a bridge.
>Dennis C.
>Touche' 35-1 #83
>Mandeville, LA
>
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
>Email address:
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
>at:
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
 

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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Ditto your running lights plus tricolor for rednecks.

You need to have lights near water level.drunk rednecks on party barges
don't usually look up.  In fact, drunk rednecks on party barges don't look,
period!

We were anchored behind Pensacola Beach in broad daylight.  We had a 15
inch orange round fender on our anchor rode roughly 25-30 feet off our
bow.  A drunk driving a party barge straddled it.  Jetskis love to zoom
past it.  Rather than a safety thing, it seems to be a stooopidity magnet.

In addition to our LED anchor light at the masthead, I hang an LED all
around from the boom.  Here's the light:

http://store.marinebeam.com/utanliwiduto.html

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 3, 2014 at 9:54 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>You get what you pay for..
>
>If you choose wisely it's not just the certification, it's the overall
>construction and performance. After careful consideration I bought this
>one:
>
>
> http://www.miseagroup.com/solutions/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5_7&products_id=23&zenid=va2a254cabmkjgrsvlq56umv46
>
> If you shop it right you can get it for a little less than 400.00 bucks.
> 400 bucks for a tricolor on a boat that's used on a lake ? The way I see
> it, It's actually pretty cheap insurance to protect my family and favorite
> toy from the lowest common denominator drunk redneck plowing into my boat
> in the middle of the night.
>
> And yes, the thing is nothing short of amazing in the way it's built
> (beautiful machined / anodized aluminum,  thick Lexan lens. Military spec
> circuitry, etc) and how it performs:  Brightest tri on the lake, You can
> see it in the distance in broad daylight.. No kidding.  Also, the Windex is
> brightly lit at night, the anchor light turn off automatically, even the
> mounting is exceptional.
>
> Also, it may be bad form on a seaway but when trying to ward-off drunk
> rednecks on the lake, when we sail at night  my boat is lit like a
> Christmas tree with the tri and running lights blazing, no worries about
> being confused for a fishing trawler.
>
> Francois
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Aluminum plate + stainless fasteners + bilge water  = electrolysis at its best.

And add to that a very crappy, and inadequate float switch and rule pump lead 
wires (if you happen to have those), and it gets even more fun.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 10:20 AM
To: Wally Bryant; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

 

My switch is held to a piece of VPC pipe using zip ties. Hard part was figuring 
out how far up to drill thr holes for the ties. 

Joel

On Sunday, November 2, 2014, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
wrote:

Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from 
McMaster-Carr.  I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull.  This was 
an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better now.  However, I 
can replace the little bilge pump without pulling everything out, since it's 
hose clamped to the bracket.  That's turned out to be a good idea.



Wal

Tom wrote:

I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the 
plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge.  Much easier 
than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge.

My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless 
fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues?



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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Worst one I ever dealt with was a SeaRay 55 whose owner had decided to spare no 
expense in autopilots. His huge autopilot would typically grace the bridge of a 
tanker or a tugboat. It had northerly turning errors that would give sudden 
course corrections and overshoots when headed north. A big steel ship at 10-15 
knots would never notice these little twitches, but a boat running 35-45 knots 
sure WOULD. Running twin 1200 HP diesels up to full blast and playing with Mr. 
Otto was kind of a scary day at work.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: Don Harben [mailto:sailadventu...@rogers.com]
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 10:58 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

I had a similar experience however after great confusion and frustration I 
tracked the problems down. I have a tiller with a Raymarine ST2000 that 
suggested that I needed to redesign my keel on the North Channel granite!

The two culprits?

1. VHF handheld on my waist belt.

2. a classic family 1940s stainless sailing knife with marlin spike.


  Don
  Viking 34 Life



From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, November 3, 2014 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

Bridges are full of rebar and will turn an autopilot quite a bit. So will 
sitting near the fluxgate with an iPhone on your belt with the magnetic closing 
latch holster.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2014 11:42 PM
To: Rick Brass; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

We have a few magnetic anomalies around here, I know not to put Otto in charge 
anywhere near them. Most are on the charts. Some are scary finding them.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 November 2014 19:05, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Good rule, Dennis.

The bridge is, of course, iron and will alter the magnetic field seen by your 
compass to some greater or lesser extent, depending on the amount of iron and 
the proximity to your fluxgate compass.

I was sitting next to the tiller pilot on my 25 one night, and had my car keys 
in my hip pocket. When I got up to look at a channel marker I was passing near, 
the boat changed course rapidly. Suddenly I was not just “close to” the mark, 
my standing rigging was tangled in it.

It was a very expensive lesson in just how sensitive those little fluxgate 
compasses can be.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2014 9:25 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

Just a caution for those who regularly use an autosteerer.  The Admiral and I 
were using the wheelpilot (Simrad WP30) as we passed under the Dauphin Island 
last weekend on our way to Pensacola.
In the middle of the bridge, the wheelpilot went bonkers and steered hard to 
starboard.  Luckily I was right there and disengaged it before we hit the 
fenders guarding the passage.
No idea what caused it.  Underground cables, gremlins, space aliens, etc.?  
There was a line of overhead power cables but they were about a tenth of a mile 
behind us.
All I know is new rule for the boat now.  No autosteering through a bridge.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale gusher. I 
have never found much water in the boat even after extended time on the 
mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at the pump handle empties 
it out. Am I crazy?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 11:13 AM
To: 'Joel Aronson'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'Wally Bryant'
Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

 

Aluminum plate + stainless fasteners + bilge water  = electrolysis at its best.

And add to that a very crappy, and inadequate float switch and rule pump lead 
wires (if you happen to have those), and it gets even more fun.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 10:20 AM
To: Wally Bryant; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

 

My switch is held to a piece of VPC pipe using zip ties. Hard part was figuring 
out how far up to drill thr holes for the ties. 

Joel

On Sunday, November 2, 2014, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
wrote:

Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from 
McMaster-Carr.  I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull.  This was 
an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better now.  However, I 
can replace the little bilge pump without pulling everything out, since it's 
hose clamped to the bracket.  That's turned out to be a good idea.



Wal

Tom wrote:

I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the 
plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge.  Much easier 
than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge.

My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless 
fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues?



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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Surfing hulls

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

 The Rob Ball designed 34+ / XL / R series have a flat surface on the
 bottom between the leading edge of the keel and the stem.  The folklore
 says it's supposed to be a planing section to help support nose when
 running the Spin and keep the bow from "diggin'in"  / surf the backside of
 bigger waves..The waves on the lake are not big enough to surf / my
 spin is not quite ready yet.  I can't speak from experience.

 Perhaps Chuck S can comment on his experience with his 34 R surfing waves
 off the coast of Atlantic City?

 I did miss an opportunity to test the fast stuff this saturday, winds were
 in excess of 30 knots and the weather was gorgeous.   I did not have a
 crew so I watched-it from the dock as I was doing some needed topsides and
 decks cleaning / waxing..


 -Francois Rivard
 1990 34+ "Take Five"
 Lake Lanier, Georgia

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Stus-List Metallurgy

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

I use blue Locktite on pretty much everything.  In addition to keep nuts
from getting loose due to vibration or whatever, it's an excellent
anti-seize agent.  I have been using it on everything from vibrating high
powered R/C planes / helicopters / cars, to my Mustang Time Trials car, to
everything in between including the boat.  Never let me down.

 -Francois Rivard
 1990 34+ "Take Five"
 Lake Lanier, Georgia
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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Not necessarily.  It all depends on what your intended use is and your level of 
comfort.   

 

For instance, I once left Sundowner un-attended in Puerto Rico at anchor.  What 
was initially intended to be few weeks un-attended,  turned out to be 18 months 
due to unplanned divorce and my son’s custody battle here in Rhode Island.   
Granted, I went to check  on things every 6 months for 1 week at the time.  But 
even at that, I consider myself very lucky that Sundowner was still there 18 
months later and after 2 hurricanes went through the anchorage.  Bilge pumps 
and their wiring are deeply etched into my brain.  I spent many sleepless 
nights thinking about them and I will forever look at them from a different 
point of view.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 



 

From: Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com] 
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 11:20 AM
To: 'Petar Horvatic'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Metallurgy

 

I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale gusher. I 
have never found much water in the boat even after extended time on the 
mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at the pump handle empties 
it out. Am I crazy?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 11:13 AM
To: 'Joel Aronson'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'Wally Bryant'
Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

 

Aluminum plate + stainless fasteners + bilge water  = electrolysis at its best.

And add to that a very crappy, and inadequate float switch and rule pump lead 
wires (if you happen to have those), and it gets even more fun.  

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 10:20 AM
To: Wally Bryant; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

 

My switch is held to a piece of VPC pipe using zip ties. Hard part was figuring 
out how far up to drill thr holes for the ties. 

Joel

On Sunday, November 2, 2014, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
wrote:

Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from 
McMaster-Carr.  I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull.  This was 
an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better now.  However, I 
can replace the little bilge pump without pulling everything out, since it's 
hose clamped to the bracket.  That's turned out to be a good idea.



Wal

Tom wrote:

I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the 
plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge.  Much easier 
than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge.

My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless 
fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues?



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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Stus-List Chrome deck fittings pitting - a cure

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I agree with the pitting experience.  Shortly after purchased, I replaced
Touche's original pitted Perko chrome cowl vents.  Not too many years later
they were pitted again.  You can see them in the Taffrail Replacement
document on the C$C photo album site (link on home page).

A few years ago, I replaced them again.  However, this time I coated the
chrome vents with clear Superior Shield by Shield Products before install.
The look good as new today.  No pitting.

I coated Touche's new brass salon lights with it.  Same results.  Not a
hint of pitting or tarnish.

A couple weeks ago I spent several hours polishing the original brass clock
and barometer that came with the boat.  Once I had them all shined up, I
coated them with Superior Shield.

Not sure where to tell the list to get it.  I got it directly from Shield
Products.  It's a fluoropolymer.  (The clear side of pill and candy bubble
packs is a fluoropolymer.  They use it because it's impermeable to air.)
Comes in a spray can.

Product info:

Superior Shield Super Shield
UPC 15002 20063 1
Shield Products, Jacksonville, FL
904.880.6060
www.shieldproducts.com

No affiliation, just a pleased user.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Thu, Oct 30, 2014 at 5:14 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> IMHO, Perko chrome plated brass won't hold up in saltwater.  Their stuff
> looks good in the store but pits terribly once on the boat.
> I'd look for stainless.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> *To: *"Rick Brass" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
> 
> *Sent: *Wednesday, October 29, 2014 10:56:04 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List EasyBlock Mainsheet Traveler
>
> My bow lights are Perko. Don't know if they still make that exact light.
> This looks close:
> http://www.perko.com/catalog/navigation_lights_under_20_meters/7/side_lights/.
> Lenses are available
>
> Joel
>
> On Wednesday, October 29, 2014, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Four or five years ago, I replaced the bulbs in my existing running
>> lights and stern lights with LED bulbs. IIRC I got them from Dr. LED and
>> the red and green bulbs were about $10 or $11 each, and the bulb for the
>> stern light (I think it is called a festoon bulb, a cylinder that has
>> pointy contacts on each end) was about $5 or $6.
>>
>>
>>
>> The bulbs in my running lights are a type 90 bulb, which is sort of hard
>> to come by anyway. The supplier explained I needed a green bulb behind the
>> green lens and a red bulb behind the red lens to get maximum light
>> transmission and meet the USCG 2 mile visibility standard. Much of the
>> light generated by a white light is apparently absorbed when it goes
>> through the green lens.
>>
>>
>>
>> I asked about a 5 mile bulb, but was told that there was no point on a
>> light so close to the surface. As part of the mast rebuild, I installed a 5
>> mile tricolor  light at the top of the mast for use when offshore.
>>
>>
>>
>> I recently noticed that the teardrop (I kind of think of them as cat’s
>> eye) running lights on my bow are beginning to corrode and look shoddy
>> after 38 years of service. I, too, wonder if there is a direct replacement
>> for the old light fixtures available somewhere.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>>
>> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *
>> wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 29, 2014 6:44 PM
>> *To:* Rick Brass via CnC-List
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List EasyBlock Mainsheet Traveler
>>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone have source for replacement lens for our teardrop running
>> lights, circa 1981?  Orin alternative, experience with replacements(led) I
>> see on internet?
>>
>> Bill Walker
>>
>> Evening Star
>>
>> CnC 36
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my HTC
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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>
>
>
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>
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Not crazy, but how old are your through hulls, sea cocks and hoses? Are 
your hoses held up with seizing wire so if the sink connections crack 
the hose won't fall down below the waterline? Do you have any red brass 
nipples connecting sea cocks to bronze T's to share hose fittings? 
That's the stuff I worry about, because I might be gone if they fail.


Speaking of boats sinking at the dock, we had another one here the other 
day. The locals were trying to raise it with empty 55 gallon drums -- 
except the drums weren't empty. The smell of solvent was overwhelming 
from 100 yards away, and I looked over to see them dumping the remaining 
contents into the marina water. Great. I walked over to complain, but 
they couldn't speak English and insisted it was just aqua. The drums 
were covered with warnings from 'flammable' to 'do not inhale fumes.' 
Funny how they were doing it on a national holiday, when the port 
captain was gone and the marina security was on a skeleton staff.


Wal



you wrote:

I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale gusher. I 
have never found much water in the boat even after extended time on the 
mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at the pump handle empties 
it out. Am I crazy?



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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

FYI - I *never* use my tricolor anymore inshore. I discovered after nearly 
being rammed twice that NO ONE looks up that high except freighter captains. 
You also may want to consider the legal liability of having non-standard lights 
- not that that stops powerboats from having any weird combination of lights 
that only sort of look something like running lights.
I decided to have totally legal and BRIGHT running lights at deck level for 
inshore use.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 10:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs


You get what you pay for..

If you choose wisely it's not just the certification, it's the overall 
construction and performance. After careful consideration I bought this one:
http://www.miseagroup.com/solutions/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5_7&products_id=23&zenid=va2a254cabmkjgrsvlq56umv46

If you shop it right you can get it for a little less than 400.00 bucks.   400 
bucks for a tricolor on a boat that's used on a lake ? The way I see it, It's 
actually pretty cheap insurance to protect my family and favorite toy from the 
lowest common denominator drunk redneck plowing into my boat in the middle of 
the night.

And yes, the thing is nothing short of amazing in the way it's built (beautiful 
machined / anodized aluminum,  thick Lexan lens. Military spec circuitry, etc) 
and how it performs:  Brightest tri on the lake, You can see it in the distance 
in broad daylight.. No kidding.  Also, the Windex is brightly lit at night, the 
anchor light turn off automatically, even the mounting is exceptional.

Also, it may be bad form on a seaway but when trying to ward-off drunk rednecks 
on the lake, when we sail at night  my boat is lit like a Christmas tree with 
the tri and running lights blazing, no worries about being confused for a 
fishing trawler.

Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia
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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Same goes for the anchor light.  No one looks up.  I was pulling into St
Michaels, MD once and noticed some "lights in the trees?"  When suddenly I
realized they were anchor lights.

Is there a problem using both the deck lights and tri-color for added
visibility?
I keep a very bright LED flashlight in my pocket at night so I can light up
the sail or signal an oncoming boater.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
 On Nov 3, 2014 12:13 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  FYI - I **never** use my tricolor anymore inshore. I discovered after
> nearly being rammed twice that NO ONE looks up that high except freighter
> captains. You also may want to consider the legal liability of having
> non-standard lights - not that that stops powerboats from having any weird
> combination of lights that only sort of look something like running lights.
>
> I decided to have totally legal and BRIGHT running lights at deck level
> for inshore use.
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *Jean-Francois
> J Rivard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, November 03, 2014 10:55 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs
>
>
>
> You get what you pay for..
>
> If you choose wisely it's not just the certification, it's the overall
> construction and performance. After careful consideration I bought this
> one:
>
>
> http://www.miseagroup.com/solutions/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5_7&products_id=23&zenid=va2a254cabmkjgrsvlq56umv46
>
> If you shop it right you can get it for a little less than 400.00 bucks.
> 400 bucks for a tricolor on a boat that's used on a lake ? The way I see
> it, It's actually pretty cheap insurance to protect my family and favorite
> toy from the lowest common denominator drunk redneck plowing into my boat
> in the middle of the night.
>
> And yes, the thing is nothing short of amazing in the way it's built
> (beautiful machined / anodized aluminum,  thick Lexan lens. Military spec
> circuitry, etc) and how it performs:  Brightest tri on the lake, You can
> see it in the distance in broad daylight.. No kidding.  Also, the Windex is
> brightly lit at night, the anchor light turn off automatically, even the
> mounting is exceptional.
>
> Also, it may be bad form on a seaway but when trying to ward-off drunk
> rednecks on the lake, when we sail at night  my boat is lit like a
> Christmas tree with the tri and running lights blazing, no worries about
> being confused for a fishing trawler.
>
> Francois
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
>
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>
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Back in the mid 80’s when I owned and operated the first Vessel Assist boat in 
the central Puget Sound area I picked up a 55’ power boat tow when his rudder 
“jammed” hard to port.  After a difficult tow in boisterous conditions, close 
to the tow’s slip the owner hailed me to state he could now control his vessel 
and would dock without assistance.

What the owner found out was the autopilot had failed and pushed the rudder 
hard over.  During the time I had him under tow he diagnosed the trouble and 
determined he could steer if he disconnected the power from his autopilot.  The 
tow fee was not that expensive compared to risking his expensive vessel.  I was 
more than happy that he was able to dock under his own power as the 
wind/current was conspiring to make the landing more entertaining than usual.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 8:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

Worst one I ever dealt with was a SeaRay 55 whose owner had decided to spare no 
expense in autopilots. His huge autopilot would typically grace the bridge of a 
tanker or a tugboat. It had northerly turning errors that would give sudden 
course corrections and overshoots when headed north. A big steel ship at 10-15 
knots would never notice these little twitches, but a boat running 35-45 knots 
sure WOULD. Running twin 1200 HP diesels up to full blast and playing with Mr. 
Otto was kind of a scary day at work.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

LED anchor lights make the "floating light problem" MUCH worse. Pinpoints of 
white light look a lot like Venus, bright stars, or airplane landing lights. On 
a hazy night they seem utterly divorced from the boats below. If I even switch 
my anchor light bulb (been up there since the 1980s) to LED, I am going to have 
several LEDs in there so it has a size to it. When I was anchored for a week in 
a high traffic area I had white LED aquarium lights wrapped around the 
forestay. Advantages were it lit the entire boat up, it was bright enough to 
read by 100 yards out or seemed like it, and the current draw was tiny. 
Disadvantage was every bug on the river showed up. Much better when the bugs 
are 60 feet over my head.
As for both sets of lights, this is not legal. On the port side you are 
signaling "not under command" and the starboard side looks like a minesweeper 
or dredge or something.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 1:06 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs


Same goes for the anchor light.  No one looks up.  I was pulling into St 
Michaels, MD once and noticed some "lights in the trees?"  When suddenly I 
realized they were anchor lights.

Is there a problem using both the deck lights and tri-color for added 
visibility?
I keep a very bright LED flashlight in my pocket at night so I can light up the 
sail or signal an oncoming boater.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 3, 2014 12:13 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
FYI - I *never* use my tricolor anymore inshore. I discovered after nearly 
being rammed twice that NO ONE looks up that high except freighter captains. 
You also may want to consider the legal liability of having non-standard lights 
- not that that stops powerboats from having any weird combination of lights 
that only sort of look something like running lights.
I decided to have totally legal and BRIGHT running lights at deck level for 
inshore use.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 10:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs


You get what you pay for..

If you choose wisely it's not just the certification, it's the overall 
construction and performance. After careful consideration I bought this one:
http://www.miseagroup.com/solutions/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5_7&products_id=23&zenid=va2a254cabmkjgrsvlq56umv46

If you shop it right you can get it for a little less than 400.00 bucks.   400 
bucks for a tricolor on a boat that's used on a lake ? The way I see it, It's 
actually pretty cheap insurance to protect my family and favorite toy from the 
lowest common denominator drunk redneck plowing into my boat in the middle of 
the night.

And yes, the thing is nothing short of amazing in the way it's built (beautiful 
machined / anodized aluminum,  thick Lexan lens. Military spec circuitry, etc) 
and how it performs:  Brightest tri on the lake, You can see it in the distance 
in broad daylight.. No kidding.  Also, the Windex is brightly lit at night, the 
anchor light turn off automatically, even the mounting is exceptional.

Also, it may be bad form on a seaway but when trying to ward-off drunk rednecks 
on the lake, when we sail at night  my boat is lit like a Christmas tree with 
the tri and running lights blazing, no worries about being confused for a 
fishing trawler.

Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Sailboat autopilots with hydraulic drive can do that too. There is a valve that 
releases the pressure when NOT under autopilot so the cylinder moves with no 
restriction. If it jams, you are not turning. If the boat has hydraulic 
steering, the wheel will turn but the autopilot will counteract everything you 
do.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: Martin DeYoung [mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com]
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 1:15 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

Back in the mid 80’s when I owned and operated the first Vessel Assist boat in 
the central Puget Sound area I picked up a 55’ power boat tow when his rudder 
“jammed” hard to port.  After a difficult tow in boisterous conditions, close 
to the tow’s slip the owner hailed me to state he could now control his vessel 
and would dock without assistance.

What the owner found out was the autopilot had failed and pushed the rudder 
hard over.  During the time I had him under tow he diagnosed the trouble and 
determined he could steer if he disconnected the power from his autopilot.  The 
tow fee was not that expensive compared to risking his expensive vessel.  I was 
more than happy that he was able to dock under his own power as the 
wind/current was conspiring to make the landing more entertaining than usual.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 8:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Gremlin - Caution!

Worst one I ever dealt with was a SeaRay 55 whose owner had decided to spare no 
expense in autopilots. His huge autopilot would typically grace the bridge of a 
tanker or a tugboat. It had northerly turning errors that would give sudden 
course corrections and overshoots when headed north. A big steel ship at 10-15 
knots would never notice these little twitches, but a boat running 35-45 knots 
sure WOULD. Running twin 1200 HP diesels up to full blast and playing with Mr. 
Otto was kind of a scary day at work.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
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Stus-List (no subject)

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

All,




I noticed this summer that some of the clear domes in the interior lights on my 
30-2 were falling out.  Something has changed sizes now and they don’t stay in. 
This may mean it is time to look at something different.  Anybody come up with 
something nice to replace the rectangular fixtures that came with the boat?  I 
was already looking at the LED replacements for the fluorescent fixtures in the 
ceiling, guess this gets added to the project list.




Thanks,




Jim Reinardy

1988 C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 







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Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Joe:  it is my understanding that a masthead tricolor is not a substitute for 
deck-level running lights--it can and should be used in addition.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame___
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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

It is completely illegal to use both at the same time. Each nav light 
displayed has a specific meaning, especially in relation to other lights 
being displayed. You are not permitted to vary the configuration.


Bill Bina


On 11/3/2014 2:38 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:
Joe:  it is my understanding that a masthead tricolor is not a 
substitute for deck-level running lights--it can and should be used in 
addition.


Bob

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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Bob, a tricolor is indeed a substitute for deck level running lights. But it 
may only be used while sailing. And it should never be used in addition to deck 
level lights.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Nov 3, 2014, at 13:38, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Joe:  it is my understanding that a masthead tricolor is not a substitute for 
> deck-level running lights--it can and should be used in addition.
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> 
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
> ___
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Re: Stus-List WINDWARD PASSAGE

[Robert Mazza via CnC-List]

Ronald,

Yes, that is true and is described in some detail in Ted Jones' article on
Gurney in Professional Boatbuilder Magazine.

Rob


On Sun, Nov 2, 2014 at 1:30 PM, Ronald B. Frerker 
wrote:

> Is it true that the keel for Passage was cast in the sand on a caribbean
> beach?  Or urban myth?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
> 
> On Sun, 11/2/14, Robert Mazza via CnC-List  wrote:
>
>  Subject: Re: Stus-List WINDWARD PASSAGE
>  To: "jimmy kelly" , "C&C Mailing List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>  Date: Sunday, November 2, 2014, 11:00 AM
>
>  Jimmy,
>  Ted Jones has a great article in the
>  latest issue of Professional Boatbuilder magazine on Alan
>  Gurney entitled "Passage Maker", which quite
>  naturally talks about Windward Passage at length.
>
>  By the way, Guy
>  Gurney is the noted marine photographer who lives in
>  Connecticut, whom I met several years ago, and like you,
>  I asked "Didn't you design Windward Passage?"
>  I got the feeling he had been asked that question several
>  times previously, so handled it with good grace! The C&C
>  66 Phantom, owned by Ralph Ryder, was an
>  early C&C IOR design which I think debuted at the 1973
>  SORC. She was also one of Big George's last designs
>  before he took on the Presidency of C&C and handed the
>  design responsibilities over too Rob Ball.
>  I know, too much
>  information!
>  Rob
>  On Sat, Nov 1, 2014 at 2:39
>  PM, jimmy kelly via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  although not a
>  c&c  speaking of large yachts, a 70 plus ft wood yacht
>   designed by Guy Gurney, WINDWARD PASSAGE could  surf for
>  extended periods given the right conditions.she SURFED past
>   both RUNNINGTIDE a s&s 63,,& C&C 66 PHANTOM
>  DURING a race  inSORC in florida...stern configuration
>  &right wave & wind conditions  seem to dictate
>   although did not win because of handicap...
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>  -Inline Attachment Follows-
>
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Re: Stus-List WINDWARD PASSAGE

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

My previous boat, an Oday 27, was an Alan Gurney design.  I liked the
boat.  Seems faster than the Hunter and Catalina 27's.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 3, 2014 at 2:54 PM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ronald,
>
> Yes, that is true and is described in some detail in Ted Jones' article on
> Gurney in Professional Boatbuilder Magazine.
>
> Rob
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 2, 2014 at 1:30 PM, Ronald B. Frerker 
> wrote:
>
>> Is it true that the keel for Passage was cast in the sand on a caribbean
>> beach?  Or urban myth?
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C&C 30-1
>> STL
>>
>> 
>> On Sun, 11/2/14, Robert Mazza via CnC-List  wrote:
>>
>>  Subject: Re: Stus-List WINDWARD PASSAGE
>>  To: "jimmy kelly" , "C&C Mailing List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>  Date: Sunday, November 2, 2014, 11:00 AM
>>
>>  Jimmy,
>>  Ted Jones has a great article in the
>>  latest issue of Professional Boatbuilder magazine on Alan
>>  Gurney entitled "Passage Maker", which quite
>>  naturally talks about Windward Passage at length.
>>
>>  By the way, Guy
>>  Gurney is the noted marine photographer who lives in
>>  Connecticut, whom I met several years ago, and like you,
>>  I asked "Didn't you design Windward Passage?"
>>  I got the feeling he had been asked that question several
>>  times previously, so handled it with good grace! The C&C
>>  66 Phantom, owned by Ralph Ryder, was an
>>  early C&C IOR design which I think debuted at the 1973
>>  SORC. She was also one of Big George's last designs
>>  before he took on the Presidency of C&C and handed the
>>  design responsibilities over too Rob Ball.
>>  I know, too much
>>  information!
>>  Rob
>>  On Sat, Nov 1, 2014 at 2:39
>>  PM, jimmy kelly via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>>  although not a
>>  c&c  speaking of large yachts, a 70 plus ft wood yacht
>>   designed by Guy Gurney, WINDWARD PASSAGE could  surf for
>>  extended periods given the right conditions.she SURFED past
>>   both RUNNINGTIDE a s&s 63,,& C&C 66 PHANTOM
>>  DURING a race  inSORC in florida...stern configuration
>>  &right wave & wind conditions  seem to dictate
>>   although did not win because of handicap...
>>
>>  ___
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>  Email address:
>>
>>  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
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>>  go bottom of page at:
>>
>>  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>  -Inline Attachment Follows-
>>
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>>  Album
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>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I agree with Bill Bina and Andy on thisa tricolor can be used as a 
substitute for deck running lights when under sail but not both at the 
same time.


The advantage of the tricolor comes with coastal and/or offshore sailing:
1.   to preserve the draw on the batteries..one (1) bulb versus 
three (3) bulbs.

2.   to be seen from a greater distance

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2014/11/03 3:49 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
Bob, a tricolor is indeed a substitute for deck level running lights. 
But it may only be used while sailing. And it should never be used in 
addition to deck level lights.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Nov 3, 2014, at 13:38, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Joe:  it is my understanding that a masthead tricolor is not a 
substitute for deck-level running lights--it can and should be used 
in addition.


Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as 
simply messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

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Stus-List Surfing hulls

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

We raced a 34R extensively..I recall the hull on this one to be flat 
from the leading edge of keel forward to the bow...not from the keel 
back to the stern.


I don't ever recall getting this 34R to surf.now we rarely wound 
this boat up to its full potential unless we had a John Roy on board for 
a race and even then I don't recall surfing.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2014/11/03 12:21 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:


The Rob Ball designed 34+ / XL / R series have a flat surface on
the bottom between the leading edge of the keel and the stem.  The
folklore says it's supposed to be a planing section to help
support nose when running the Spin and keep the bow from
"diggin'in"  / surf the backside of bigger waves..The waves on
the lake are not big enough to surf / my spin is not quite ready
yet.  I can't speak from experience.

Perhaps Chuck S can comment on his experience with his 34 R
surfing waves off the coast of Atlantic City?

I did miss an opportunity to test the fast stuff this saturday,
winds were in excess of 30 knots and the weather was gorgeous.   I
did not have a crew so I watched-it from the dock as I was doing
some needed topsides and decks cleaning / waxing..


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia




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Re: Stus-List Surfing hulls

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

HI, I meant the STEM..  so yes, between keel and the pointy end :-)



Regards

 Francois Rivard
 1990 34+ "Take Five"
 Lake Lanier, Georgia



From:   Robert Abbott 
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date:   11/03/2014 05:05 PM
Subject:Surfing hulls



We raced a 34R extensively..I recall the hull on this one to be flat
from the leading edge of keel forward to the bow...not from the keel
back to the stern.

I don't ever recall getting this 34R to surf.now we rarely wound this
boat up to its full potential unless we had a John Roy on board for a race
and even then I don't recall surfing.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2014/11/03 12:21 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:


The Rob Ball designed 34+ / XL / R series have a flat surface
on the bottom between the leading edge of the keel and the
stem.  The folklore says it's supposed to be a planing section
to help support nose when running the Spin and keep the bow
from "diggin'in"  / surf the backside of bigger waves..The
waves on the lake are not big enough to surf / my spin is not
quite ready yet.  I can't speak from experience.

Perhaps Chuck S can comment on his experience with his 34 R
surfing waves off the coast of Atlantic City?

I did miss an opportunity to test the fast stuff this saturday,
winds were in excess of 30 knots and the weather was gorgeous.
I did not have a crew so I watched-it from the dock as I was
doing some needed topsides and decks cleaning / waxing..


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia






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Re: Stus-List Surfing hulls

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I surfed our 34R entering the Absecon (Atlantic City) Inlet at the end of an 8 
mile race in the jib and main division. The race started as a drifter off Ocean 
City, NJ and halfway through the wind died completely for about 10 minutes. We 
furled the genoa to stop it from slatting against shrouds, and then the wind 
filled in from offshore building slowly to about 15 knots near the finish. A 
squall was approaching then and we witnessed several other boats in the 
division ahead of us, laying over and struggling to furl their headsails. The 
wind was only15 knots as we crossed the finish line on a close reach and we 
turned downwind to line up with the channel, when the wind increased 
dramatically to 27+, but since we were turning downwind, I kept the crew on the 
rail and eased sheets and rode the waves around the sea buoy and we flew past 
the jetties. With her open cockpit and 54" wheel, I felt like I was driving a 
chariot as I held her on a broad reach turning more downwind in the gusts. She 
loved it. We passed several boats limping in under power and we sailed all the 
way into the marina before furling the genoa and starting the engine to dock at 
the Golden Nugget. 

The previous owner told me a story of surfing waves in the Race, Long Island 
Sound. He told me that, under spinnaker in an Around Long Island Race, they hit 
15 knots at times. I haven't had a spinnaker up in high winds, so can't share 
stories about that. Just never had the right conditions. When it's windy, I'd 
rather be on a windsurfer. I once was clocked at 31mph on a windsurfer on flat 
water in 20 knots of wind, and I can relate stories of windsurfing waves in 25 
to 40 knot winds and jumping 25 feet above 8 ft waves, etc. That was before I 
got a "sit down" sailboat. 

If you are fixated on surfing sailboats, checkout a Melges 20 or a Viper 640, 
three person windsurfers. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Monday, November 3, 2014 11:21:04 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Surfing hulls 



The Rob Ball designed 34+ / XL / R series have a flat surface on the bottom 
between the leading edge of the keel and the stem. The folklore says it's 
supposed to be a planing section to help support nose when running the Spin and 
keep the bow from "diggin'in" / surf the backside of bigger waves.. The waves 
on the lake are not big enough to surf / my spin is not quite ready yet. I 
can't speak from experience. 

Perhaps Chuck S can comment on his experience with his 34 R surfing waves off 
the coast of Atlantic City? 

I did miss an opportunity to test the fast stuff this saturday, winds were in 
excess of 30 knots and the weather was gorgeous. I did not have a crew so I 
watched-it from the dock as I was doing some needed topsides and decks cleaning 
/ waxing.. 


-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, Georgia 



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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy/bilge pump

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

You are very lucky. You probably want a bilge pump if your boat has an inboard 
engine with packing gland on the shaft. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "Petar Horvatic" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
 
Sent: Monday, November 3, 2014 11:19:49 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy 



I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale gusher. I 
have never found much water in the boat even after extended time on the 
mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at the pump handle empties 
it out. Am I crazy? 


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Re: Stus-List 34/36 flat area

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I once asked Rob Ball about that flat area of my 34R, because it would slam 
when crossing a wave. He said that feature was proven to be fast in IOR designs 
and even though the 1990 34/36R, 34/36+, 34/36XL series was designed for IMS, 
he incorporated it into this hull. He told me it wouldn't slam when sailing, or 
when heeled because the hull has a vee on either side of the flat, so it acts 
like a keel when heeled. I've learned to avoid the slam by sailing more, or 
motorsailing, or motoring thru chop or crossing waves at an angle. I've since 
seen that flat section on many other brand racers. 

The newest racing sailboat designs (like C&C 30 and Redline 41) however have 
eliptical cross sections, like a canoe, bow to stern. Have you seen the chines 
on the Volvo Ocean 65's this year? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "Robert Abbott"  
Cc: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Monday, November 3, 2014 5:16:04 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Surfing hulls 



HI, I meant the STEM.. so yes, between keel and the pointy end :-) 



Regards 


Francois Rivard 1990 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, Georgia 
Robert Abbott ---11/03/2014 05:05:13 PM---We raced a 34R extensively..I 
recall the hull on this one to be flat from the leading edge of k 

From: Robert Abbott  
To: Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS, cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 11/03/2014 05:05 PM 
Subject: Surfing hulls 




We raced a 34R extensively..I recall the hull on this one to be flat from 
the leading edge of keel forward to the bow...not from the keel back to the 
stern. 

I don't ever recall getting this 34R to surf.now we rarely wound this boat 
up to its full potential unless we had a John Roy on board for a race and even 
then I don't recall surfing. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 





On 2014/11/03 12:21 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote: 

The Rob Ball designed 34+ / XL / R series have a flat surface on the bottom 
between the leading edge of the keel and the stem. The folklore says it's 
supposed to be a planing section to help support nose when running the Spin and 
keep the bow from "diggin'in" / surf the backside of bigger waves.. The waves 
on the lake are not big enough to surf / my spin is not quite ready yet. I 
can't speak from experience. Perhaps Chuck S can comment on his experience with 
his 34 R surfing waves off the coast of Atlantic City? I did miss an 
opportunity to test the fast stuff this saturday, winds were in excess of 30 
knots and the weather was gorgeous. I did not have a crew so I watched-it from 
the dock as I was doing some needed topsides and decks cleaning / waxing.. 
-Francois Rivard 1990 34+ "Take Five" Lake Lanier, Georgia 

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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

At anchor, no problem.  I have a solar garden light tie wrapped at both 
bow and stern, and have at times mounted one port and starboard 
amidships on the stanchions.  They also help to find the boat at night...


As Bill mentioned, Tri-Color and running lights are a no-no.  When under 
power your steaming light must be higher than your running lights.  
(Red-White-Red underway means you're towing.  When at anchor it means 
you're dredging.  On land it means 'Hurricane')


Just to make it more confusing:

I just had to pull out my 'Quick Reference Nav Rules' cheat sheet -- a 
plastic card that shows all this stuff.  And darned if it doesn't show a 
boat under sail with both running lights and lights at the masthead with 
the note 'may be added.'  Huh.  Note that there wasn't a white light at 
the masthead, just red and green. So I pulled out my copy of Chapmans, 
which is pretty much the definitive source.  It definitely makes no 
mention of both deck lights and masthead lights when under sail.  Also, 
if you did have your tri-color and running lights on, you would be 
showing two white lights astern, which isn't a listed configuration.


And after reading Chapman again, it's amazing that we *all* break the 
rules all the time.  How many of us fly a black ball in the 
fore-triangle when at anchor during the day?  I actually have one, but 
have never used it.


And when single handed off shore motoring at night, when I'm sleeping, 
I'll turn on the foredeck light.  It's the same fitting as the steaming 
light, so what the heck.  I'm asleep, so it's not like it's going to 
wreck my night vision.


Wal

 wrote:

Same goes for the anchor light.  No one looks up.  I was pulling into St
Michaels, MD once and noticed some "lights in the trees?"  When suddenly I
realized they were anchor lights.

Is there a problem using both the deck lights and tri-color for added
visibility?



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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

>From the Tranport Canada "Small Commercial Vessel Safety Guide - TP 14070 E
(2010)" Chapter 9, found here:

http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/marinesafety/tp-tp14070-3587.htm
Sailing Vessels

A sailing vessel is any vessel under sail provided that if propelling
machinery is fitted, it is not being used.

A sailing vessel under way must exhibit sidelights and a sternlight (see
Figure 9-3)

link to figure 9-3:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/media/images/marinesafety/tp14070-12.jpg

or, if less than 20 metres long, a combined lantern carried at or near the
top of the mast (see Figure 9-4).

link to figure 9-4:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/media/images/marinesafety/tp14070-13.jpg

A sailing vessel may exhibit at or near the top of the mast, two all-round
lights in a vertical line: the upper one red and the lower one green. These
lights are shown along with the sidelights and sternlight, but not with the
combined lantern (see Figure 9-5).

link to Figure 9-5:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/media/images/marinesafety/tp14070-14.jpg


Actually, the wording of the collision regulations is essentially the same:

Rule 25Sailing Vessels Underway and Vessels Under Oars — International

   - (*a*)
   A sailing vessel underway shall exhibit:
   -

  (i) sidelights,
  -

  (ii) a sternlight.
  - (*b*)
   In a sailing vessel of less than 20 metres in length the lights
   prescribed in paragraph (*a*) of this Rule may be combined in one
   lantern carried at or near the top of the mast where it can best be seen.
   - (*c*)
   A sailing vessel underway may, in addition to the lights prescribed in
   paragraph (*a*) of this Rule, exhibit at or near the top of the mast,
   where they can best be seen, two all-round lights in a vertical line, the
   upper being red and the lower green, but these lights shall not be
   exhibited in conjunction with the combined lantern permitted by paragraph (
   *b*) of this Rule.


http://laws-lois.justice.gc.ca/eng/regulations/C.R.C.%2C_c._1416/page-4.html#h-8


Ken H.

On 3 November 2014 20:18, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
wrote:

> At anchor, no problem.  I have a solar garden light tie wrapped at both
> bow and stern, and have at times mounted one port and starboard amidships
> on the stanchions.  They also help to find the boat at night...
>
> As Bill mentioned, Tri-Color and running lights are a no-no.  When under
> power your steaming light must be higher than your running lights.
> (Red-White-Red underway means you're towing.  When at anchor it means
> you're dredging.  On land it means 'Hurricane')
>
> Just to make it more confusing:
>
> I just had to pull out my 'Quick Reference Nav Rules' cheat sheet -- a
> plastic card that shows all this stuff.  And darned if it doesn't show a
> boat under sail with both running lights and lights at the masthead with
> the note 'may be added.'  Huh.  Note that there wasn't a white light at the
> masthead, just red and green. So I pulled out my copy of Chapmans, which is
> pretty much the definitive source.  It definitely makes no mention of both
> deck lights and masthead lights when under sail.  Also, if you did have
> your tri-color and running lights on, you would be showing two white lights
> astern, which isn't a listed configuration.
>
> And after reading Chapman again, it's amazing that we *all* break the
> rules all the time.  How many of us fly a black ball in the fore-triangle
> when at anchor during the day?  I actually have one, but have never used it.
>
> And when single handed off shore motoring at night, when I'm sleeping,
> I'll turn on the foredeck light.  It's the same fitting as the steaming
> light, so what the heck.  I'm asleep, so it's not like it's going to wreck
> my night vision.
>
> Wal
>
>  wrote:
>
>> Same goes for the anchor light.  No one looks up.  I was pulling into St
>> Michaels, MD once and noticed some "lights in the trees?"  When suddenly I
>> realized they were anchor lights.
>>
>> Is there a problem using both the deck lights and tri-color for added
>> visibility?
>>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Can we get back to discussions on racing rules?  This Colregs stuff is 
way too foncusing. 



Ken wrote:

>From the Tranport Canada "Small Commercial Vessel Safety Guide - TP 14070 E
(2010)" Chapter 9, found here:

http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/marinesafety/tp-tp14070-3587.htm



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Re: Stus-List 34/36 flat area

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Interesting comments.  I sailed a 34+ for many years in a lot of conditions and 
never saw any sustained plaining on any point of sail.  Even my 121 will run a 
bit on a broad reach but again not what you would think of as a plaining hull. 
Sorry, that’s melges territory.  On the plus side we do have a bit more 
accommodation in the cabin.  Not to say the 34+, 37+, 110, 121 aren’t good 
performing boats.  Just saying surfing is not their forte.  Btw - the 34+ was a 
very noisy boat.  A little too much flex in the hull and it would pound.  
Again, a trade off in term of performance vs. cruise ability. Love Rob and have 
a lots respect for him but that one he may have some rose colored glasses on.  
Not structural by any means as I put more than a few offshore miles on the boat 
(and still consider it the best boat I ever owned).

Would love to sail one of the latest C&C’s.  

John

On Nov 3, 2014, at 7:01 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> I once asked Rob Ball about that flat area of my 34R, because it would slam 
> when crossing a wave.  He said that feature was proven to be fast in IOR 
> designs and even though the 1990 34/36R, 34/36+, 34/36XL series was designed 
> for IMS, he incorporated it into this hull.  He told me it wouldn't slam when 
> sailing, or when heeled because the hull has a vee on either side of the 
> flat, so it acts like a keel when heeled.  I've learned to avoid the slam by 
> sailing more, or motorsailing, or motoring thru chop or crossing waves at an 
> angle.   I've since seen that flat section on many other brand racers.
> 
> The newest racing sailboat designs (like C&C 30 and Redline 41) however have 
> eliptical cross sections, like a canoe, bow to stern.  Have you seen the 
> chines on the Volvo Ocean 65's this year?
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> To: "Robert Abbott" 
> Cc: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> Sent: Monday, November 3, 2014 5:16:04 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Surfing hulls
> 
> HI, I meant the STEM..  so yes, between keel and the pointy end :-)  
> 
> 
> 
> Regards
> Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
> 
> Robert Abbott ---11/03/2014 05:05:13 PM---We raced a 34R 
> extensively..I recall the hull on this one to be flat  from the leading 
> edge of k
> 
> From: Robert Abbott 
> To:   Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: 11/03/2014 05:05 PM
> Subject:  Surfing hulls
> 
> 
> 
> We raced a 34R extensively..I recall the hull on this one to be flat from 
> the leading edge of keel forward to the bow...not from the keel back to 
> the stern.
> 
> I don't ever recall getting this 34R to surf.now we rarely wound this 
> boat up to its full potential unless we had a John Roy on board for a race 
> and even then I don't recall surfing.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 2014/11/03 12:21 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> The Rob Ball designed 34+ / XL / R series have a flat surface on the bottom 
> between the leading edge of the keel and the stem.  The folklore says it's 
> supposed to be a planing section to help support nose when running the Spin 
> and keep the bow from "diggin'in"  / surf the backside of bigger waves..
> The waves on the lake are not big enough to surf / my spin is not quite ready 
> yet.  I can't speak from experience. 
> 
> Perhaps Chuck S can comment on his experience with his 34 R surfing waves off 
> the coast of Atlantic City?
> 
> I did miss an opportunity to test the fast stuff this saturday, winds were in 
> excess of 30 knots and the weather was gorgeous.   I did not have a crew so I 
> watched-it from the dock as I was doing some needed topsides and decks 
> cleaning / waxing.. 
> 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C for sale locally

[David Jacobs via CnC-List]

This boat's been on the market for a very long time. When I was looking last
year I was told by a broker that the deck was soft but that the owner fixed
it and did a good job.I never did go to see it though.

 

Dave J

Saltaire

C&C 35 MK3

Bristol, RI

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 7:50 AM
To: russ...@telus.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C for sale locally

 

  Hi Guys,

 

I thought this might be of some interest.  I friend of mine sent it to me
yesterday.

 

I have no affiliation with this boat what-so-ever.

 

79 C&C 36 for $20,500

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/boa/4705372237.html

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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Wal, if you are gone any amount of time when they fail you have lost the 
boat anyway - any half decently sized bilge pump will kill the battery.  
Let's assume a Whale 1000 gallon / hr pump, this will pull 4 amps.   The 
1000 gallons/hr rating is ideal, like mileage ratings on cars, so in 
real life assuming 5 feet of head you will get maybe half that.


A 1" hose off a fitting at 2 feet below waterline will flood at 12.7 gpm 
= 762 gallons per hour.  Your pump won't keep up with that.


So back to the Defender site, what's a 2000 gph pump draw?  The Rule 
pump draws 8.4 amps.  So now your boat is safe, at a cost of 8.4 amp 
hours - how many days does that keep your boat afloat? What if it is a 
seacock that fails (higher flooding rate), or a bigger fitting?


(technical reference: Calder, Boatowner's Mechanical And Electrical 
Manual 3rd edition, "flooding rates" p 581)


How many on here have a 2000 gph automatic bilge pumps?  I consider 
automatic bilge pumps to be suitable for nuisance flooding (e.g. rain 
down the mast), and one would buy me a bit of time in a crisis, but to 
rely on one for long term unattended protection is unrealistic.  Far 
better to check and eliminate the risks you mention.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-11-03 1:00 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:
Not crazy, but how old are your through hulls, sea cocks and hoses? 
Are your hoses held up with seizing wire so if the sink connections 
crack the hose won't fall down below the waterline? Do you have any 
red brass nipples connecting sea cocks to bronze T's to share hose 
fittings? That's the stuff I worry about, because I might be gone if 
they fail.


Speaking of boats sinking at the dock, we had another one here the 
other day. The locals were trying to raise it with empty 55 gallon 
drums -- except the drums weren't empty. The smell of solvent was 
overwhelming from 100 yards away, and I looked over to see them 
dumping the remaining contents into the marina water. Great. I walked 
over to complain, but they couldn't speak English and insisted it was 
just aqua. The drums were covered with warnings from 'flammable' to 
'do not inhale fumes.' Funny how they were doing it on a national 
holiday, when the port captain was gone and the marina security was on 
a skeleton staff.


Wal



you wrote:
I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale 
gusher. I have never found much water in the boat even after extended 
time on the mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at 
the pump handle empties it out. Am I crazy?



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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I second that. On one occasion, when sailing at night in quite some weather
(8-10 ft. waves) we noticed the other sailboat's mast much before we saw its
lights. Our deck mounted lights don't offer much visibility in rough seas.

 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 4:57 PM
To: Andrew Burton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Robert Boyer
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

 

I agree with Bill Bina and Andy on thisa tricolor can be used as a
substitute for deck running lights when under sail but not both at the same
time.

The advantage of the tricolor comes with coastal and/or offshore sailing:
1.   to preserve the draw on the batteries..one (1) bulb versus three
(3) bulbs.
2.   to be seen from a greater distance

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2014/11/03 3:49 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:

Bob, a tricolor is indeed a substitute for deck level running lights. But it
may only be used while sailing. And it should never be used in addition to
deck level lights.

Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine


Andrew Burton 

61 W Narragansett

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 

+401 965-5260


On Nov 3, 2014, at 13:38, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
wrote:

Joe:  it is my understanding that a masthead tricolor is not a substitute
for deck-level running lights--it can and should be used in addition.

 

Bob

Bob Boyer 

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

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Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Well, yes, I have been gone for quite some time.  It works for me.

best regardsmifl  (darn these foreign keyboards)\

wAL
(vbg)

PS. Please don't attack me right now, I have something in the oven.
And actually, if I read your message correctly, you are supporting my 
assertion.


you wrote:
Wal, if you are gone any amount of time when they fail you have lost 
the boat anyway - any half decently sized bilge pump will kill the 
battery.  Let's assume a Whale 1000 gallon / hr pump, this will pull 4 
amps.   The 1000 gallons/hr rating is ideal, like mileage ratings on 
cars, so in real life assuming 5 feet of head you will get maybe half 
that.


A 1" hose off a fitting at 2 feet below waterline will flood at 12.7 
gpm = 762 gallons per hour.  Your pump won't keep up with that.


So back to the Defender site, what's a 2000 gph pump draw?  The Rule 
pump draws 8.4 amps.  So now your boat is safe, at a cost of 8.4 amp 
hours - how many days does that keep your boat afloat? What if it is a 
seacock that fails (higher flooding rate), or a bigger fitting?


(technical reference: Calder, Boatowner's Mechanical And Electrical 
Manual 3rd edition, "flooding rates" p 581)


How many on here have a 2000 gph automatic bilge pumps?  I consider 
automatic bilge pumps to be suitable for nuisance flooding (e.g. rain 
down the mast), and one would buy me a bit of time in a crisis, but to 
rely on one for long term unattended protection is unrealistic.  Far 
better to check and eliminate the risks you mention.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11 



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