Re: Stus-List A 1972 C&C 35

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Great achievement, sailing around the world singlehanded. Hope to read more 
about that. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 6:31:15 PM 
Subject: Stus-List A 1972 C&C 35 

made it around the world.I saw this guy set sail in Dec. 
2011 and I was there today when he returned. Should give us all 
confidence in our old boats. 

http://thechronicleherald.ca/novascotia/1209064-solo-sailor-conquers-globe 


Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 






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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Running a water-cooled engine (diesel or gasoline) at other than the 
designed temperature with the specified thermostat or thermostats is 
VERY bad for the engine and will shorten it's life in addition to 
causing reliability and other issues. The engineers did not add 
thermostats for their entertainment value.


Bill Bina


On 5/22/2014 12:53 AM, via CnC-List wrote:

I have the same engine in my LF38 which was converted to fwc by the previous 
owner. When I went to replace the thermostats I found there were none 
installed. The engine runs a 150 degrees at cruising speed with no stats, it 
does take a  while to reach it though.

Bill
 Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

Why change?  Just let the engine run cooler.

Josh Muckley
1989 C&C 37+
S/V Sea Hawk
Solomons, MD
On May 21, 2014 2:07 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:


Hi,

I am converting Yanmar 3QM30 raw water cooling system into a fresh water
cooling system with a Sen-Dure heat exchanger.  The current thermostat is
Yanmar part number 105582-49200.The fresh water thermostat listed for
the 3QM30F looks like a completely different size thermostat.Does
anyone know the Yanmar part number for a fresh water (i.e. higher
temperature) thermostat which will fit a raw water 3QM30 system?

Thanks for any help.




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL





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Re: Stus-List CB Question

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Charlie, 
Is 1000# the actual weight of your centerboard? That's heavy but effective in 
keeping the boat upright. 

It looks hard to bottom paint a centerboard because our lift can't lift 35 
footers high enough to lower the board fully. Does the trunk need painting too? 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "Don Newman" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
 
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 5:38:38 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CB Question 

Up and down for racing, usually up for local cruising in the NC sounds and the 
ICW which rarely have depths of 20 feet. 

My 36 XL has a 4.5 ft depth lead cb trunk so there is plenty of 'keel' with the 
board up inside the trunk. Since the board weighs ~1000 lbs, grinding it up is 
not something one does frequently, unless racing. 

Charlie Nelson 
Water Phantom 
C&C 36 XL/kcb 

Sent from my iPad 

> On May 21, 2014, at 5:12 PM, Don Newman via CnC-List  
> wrote: 
> 
> How do CB owners generally use them for daysailing and cruising? 
> Assuming no depth issues (we have 20 ft in the slip) do you pull it when not 
> sailing? 
> Any other suggestions? 
> 
> It sure makes a big CMG difference upwind. 
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> Don Newman 
> C&C 44 
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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Rob,  I just did it last weekend while I was changing the shift and throttle 
cables.  I had to remove the brake so I could slide the chain all the way 
forward to get the cables changed.  Re-installing the brake was easy by 
comparison.  As Sylvain and others have mentioned, after removing the compass, 
also remove the next layer of the pedestal to make access easier.  It's very 
easy to put the pieces of the brake in - the wheel and shaft just screw into 
the port brake piece.  I pulled a piece of twine through the eye of the cotter 
pin so that if I dropped the pin while installing it, it would not disappear 
down the pedestal.  Then just pull the twine out when the legs on the pin are 
properly bent.  It all went fairly smoothly.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 18:56:31 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List 
> To: Robert Abbott , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
>   
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake
> Message-ID:
>   <1400723791.69954.yahoomail...@web163405.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Yes, I did it 2-3 years ago on my Edson 335 , no specific issues except to 
> make sure the roller bearings and chain links? grease have no chance to 
> contaminate the brake pad lining. I think the big issue was putting the 
> cotter pin . make sure you have 1? ( or better 2 ) layers of rags under the 
> shaft assembly, some parts are pretty small!
> 
> Sylvain
> C&C27 MkIII
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 6:17 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake
> 
> 
> Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?
> 
> When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
> should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?
> 
> Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
> work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
> challenge.
> 
> If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
> compass is removed?? Any and all advice welcomed.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 



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Re: Stus-List CB Question

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We keep Perceptions down most of the time - unless in thin water or light winds 
. In the slip its left down usually - 

Paul Fountain
C&C 33-II - Perception II
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Newman 
via CnC-List
Sent: May 21, 2014 5:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CB Question

How do CB owners generally use them for daysailing and cruising?
Assuming no depth issues (we have 20 ft in the slip) do you pull it when not 
sailing?
Any other suggestions?

It sure makes a big CMG difference upwind. 

Thanks

Don Newman
C&C 44 
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Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Graham,

Thank you for your offer of assistance.if I decide to do this job, I 
will take you up on your offer and if it is any consolation, I don't 
work unless there is 'beer', so you have no worries.


Jim, I bought the Edson Wheel Brake Repair Kit at the Binnacle here and 
it cost $69.95..when I look at what I got (two pads, a little 
plastic pipe, a washer, a cotter pin and some Locktite) I don't know why 
it is that price.  What you paid seems more reasonable.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2014/05/21 11:06 PM, Graham Collins wrote:

Hi Rob
Pretty easy job if the screws come out easily.   If they are seized...
1) remove the throttle / shift lever assembly if you have one - you 
will have to pull the pins connecting the levers to the forks on the 
cables.  Small needlenose pliers are good.  And remove the plate 
holding the pedestal guard.
2) on the end of the brake locking shaft down inside there is a cotter 
pin, you have to get that off.  needlenose pliers or needlenose vice 
grips.
3) remove the plate on top (two screws at the forward edge of the 
metal plate that retains the upper ends of the brake pads).
4) hold the left pad with vicegrips or pliers, and turn the brake knob 
to unscrew it off of the threaded shaft.  Remove left pad
5) hold the right pad and pull out the brake knob, the right pad 
slides on/off.


That's pretty much it.  If you want a hand some evening, I work for 
beer... :-)


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-05-21 7:17 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:

Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?

When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?


Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
challenge.


If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

keep in mind that the coolants in two systems are different. If you have a raw 
water cooled engine, the system has to work below the boiling point (usually 
around 90-95 C); if you have the fresh water cooled engine, the inside system 
runs hotter (around 102 C), because it is a bit pressurised not to mention that 
it uses an antifreeze.

Marek (in Ottawa)

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 11:43 PM
To: C&C List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

Why change?  Just let the engine run cooler.

Josh Muckley
1989 C&C 37+
S/V Sea Hawk
Solomons, MD

On May 21, 2014 2:07 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:

  Hi, 

  I am converting Yanmar 3QM30 raw water cooling system into a fresh water 
cooling system with a Sen-Dure heat exchanger.  The current thermostat is 
Yanmar part number 105582-49200.The fresh water thermostat listed for the 
3QM30F looks like a completely different size thermostat.Does anyone know 
the Yanmar part number for a fresh water (i.e. higher temperature) thermostat 
which will fit a raw water 3QM30 system?

  Thanks for any help.




  -
  Paul E.
  1981 C&C Landfall 38
  S/V Johanna Rose
  Carrabelle, FL







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Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Got love this one:

<
http://news.yahoo.com/85-foot-luxury-yacht-sinks-during-maiden-launch-010228735.html
>

Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Looks like Caddyshack to me.
Gary

~~~_/)~~



On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 9:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Got love this one:
>
> <
> http://news.yahoo.com/85-foot-luxury-yacht-sinks-during-maiden-launch-010228735.html
> >
>
> Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

That's the Flying Wasp from Caddyshack! LOL

Bill Bina
On 5/22/2014 9:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Got love this one:



Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Ouch, that kit is 89.95 at the binnacle now.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 8:34 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Graham,
>
> Thank you for your offer of assistance.if I decide to do this job, I
> will take you up on your offer and if it is any consolation, I don't work
> unless there is 'beer', so you have no worries.
>
> Jim, I bought the Edson Wheel Brake Repair Kit at the Binnacle here and it
> cost $69.95..when I look at what I got (two pads, a little plastic
> pipe, a washer, a cotter pin and some Locktite) I don't know why it is that
> price.  What you paid seems more reasonable.
>
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> On 2014/05/21 11:06 PM, Graham Collins wrote:
>
>> Hi Rob
>> Pretty easy job if the screws come out easily.   If they are seized...
>> 1) remove the throttle / shift lever assembly if you have one - you will
>> have to pull the pins connecting the levers to the forks on the cables.
>>  Small needlenose pliers are good.  And remove the plate holding the
>> pedestal guard.
>> 2) on the end of the brake locking shaft down inside there is a cotter
>> pin, you have to get that off.  needlenose pliers or needlenose vice grips.
>> 3) remove the plate on top (two screws at the forward edge of the metal
>> plate that retains the upper ends of the brake pads).
>> 4) hold the left pad with vicegrips or pliers, and turn the brake knob to
>> unscrew it off of the threaded shaft.  Remove left pad
>> 5) hold the right pad and pull out the brake knob, the right pad slides
>> on/off.
>>
>> That's pretty much it.  If you want a hand some evening, I work for
>> beer... :-)
>>
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>
>> On 2014-05-21 7:17 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>>> Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?
>>>
>>> When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit
>>> should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?
>>>
>>> Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a
>>> work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a
>>> challenge.
>>>
>>> If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the
>>> compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>>> page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List CB Question

[Don Newman via CnC-List]

Thanks to all. Looks like I was just over thinking it. 
I was concerned about lateral movement with board down sitting in slip. 

Don Newman
C&C 44

> On May 22, 2014, at 7:54, Paul Fountain  wrote:
> 
> We keep Perceptions down most of the time - unless in thin water or light 
> winds . In the slip its left down usually - 
> 
> Paul Fountain
> C&C 33-II - Perception II
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Newman 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: May 21, 2014 5:12 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List CB Question
> 
> How do CB owners generally use them for daysailing and cruising?
> Assuming no depth issues (we have 20 ft in the slip) do you pull it when not 
> sailing?
> Any other suggestions?
> 
> It sure makes a big CMG difference upwind. 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Don Newman
> C&C 44 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

there was one with the actual pictures: 
http://www.kirotv.com/news/news/6-pe...ed-boat/nfy8j/ 


Marek
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 9:05 AM
To: CnClist 
Subject: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

Got love this one:  




Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA




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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Here is the news story:
http://www.kirotv.com/news/news/kiro-7-investigates-warning-signs-capsized-boat-ne/nf5Mp/

Joel


On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 10:46 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>   there was one with the actual pictures:
> http://www.kirotv.com/news/news/6-pe...ed-boat/nfy8j/
>
> Marek
>  *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 22, 2014 9:05 AM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch
>
>Got love this one:
>
> <
> http://news.yahoo.com/85-foot-luxury-yacht-sinks-during-maiden-launch-010228735.html
> >
>
> Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> --
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Folding prop

[andrew rothweiler via CnC-List]

Hello, can someone  give advice on selecting a folding prop that would be 
matched with an Atomic 4 in a 35-2?
Thanks in advance.
Andy R___
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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Somebody must've flushed really hard??


On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 9:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Got love this one:
>
> <
> http://news.yahoo.com/85-foot-luxury-yacht-sinks-during-maiden-launch-010228735.html
> >
>
> Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
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>


-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Stus-List restoration and relaunch

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

As beautiful as our old C&C’s are, you should check out this video on another 
beautiful classic:

http://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/bringing-boats-life-rockport-marine/?awt_l=93Npw&awt_m=3V.w9dhEfr44w9k

Amazing handiwork…



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Re: Stus-List restoration and relaunch

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Nice!

Apparently our competition to Bermuda includes another classic, a 100 foot
schooner:

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=150658
Joel


On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> As beautiful as our old C&C’s are, you should check out this video on
> another beautiful classic:
>
>
> http://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/bringing-boats-life-rockport-marine/?awt_l=93Npw&awt_m=3V.w9dhEfr44w9k
>
> Amazing handiwork…
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List restoration and relaunch

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I imagine she’ll owe us time…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 22, 2014, at 10:45 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> Nice!
> 
> Apparently our competition to Bermuda includes another classic, a 100 foot 
> schooner:
> 
> http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=150658
> Joel

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Re: Stus-List restoration and relaunch

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Actually she rates 156!


On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 11:48 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I imagine she’ll owe us time…   :^)
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On May 22, 2014, at 10:45 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:
>
> Nice!
>
> Apparently our competition to Bermuda includes another classic, a 100 foot
> schooner:
>
> http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=150658
> Joel
>
>
>
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

The threesheetsnw.com web site has some good coverage of the failure to launch. 
 Sailing Anarchy and Pressure-point.us also have good discussion if you can 
wade through the trash.

Here is a quote from one of the blogs listed at threesheetsnw.com:

>>
A poster on your blog copied & pasted from Sailing Anarchy exactly what 
happened to the launch I believe.

At that ramp-angle the stern became buoyant and the boat took an immediate 
twist to port about 10/12 degrees and stopped (like a pencil between 2 points), 
pivoting on the front single point of the wheel set (dolly)

What stopped her at that point was the port-side stabilized came in contact 
with the concrete ramp.

After starting the main and one gen they chose to continue

I’d agree with his last paragraph:

” However, the boat could (and probably does) have perfectly adequate stability 
in operation even though there was this accident during launch – which 
shouldn’t have happened, just isn’t indicative of the operational stability.”


Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 6:09 AM
To: Dennis C.; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

Looks like Caddyshack to me.
Gary

~~~_/)~~

On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 9:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Got love this one:


Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Keel fell off!  Oh it never gets old. 

Brent Driedger
27-5

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 22, 2014, at 10:16 AM, William Hall via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Somebody must've flushed really hard??
> 
> 
>> On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 9:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Got love this one:  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> page at:
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> William D. Hall, Ph.D.
> 203 653 2886 (o)
> 617 620 9078 (c)
> wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake & Relining Brakes

[PME via CnC-List]

Rob,

I just removed the Edson brakes and steering cables/chain from my steering 
system this past Sunday.   And it was near exactly as described by Graham.  The 
hardest part was removing the seized flathead screws.  With a little PB 
Blaster, some perseverance, and a lot of hammer-twisting on an old hand impact 
driver (like the one at  http://tinyurl.com/q823uja ) I was able to get the 
screws out.   I will surely use never-seize putting the screws back in.  This 
little impact driver has saved me on several occasions.

The removal of the brakes took just a few minutes at this point.  To add to 
Graham's comments, there is a special-sized washer on the brake shaft toward 
the knob side of the last brake pad.  This washer is critical in making the 
brakes work.   It turns out this washer was missing on my brake system, and 
that my brake pads are fine.  Try not to lose this washer or be very cautious 
when installing a replacement.  I called Edson trying to buy the little washer, 
but they insisted on sending a few washers out to me for free.  As many have 
suggested, stuff rags down the pedestal, but I plan to tie dental floss on this 
bugger to aid in its installation too. 

As for brake replacements, the kits go for about $77 online(Defender).  I have 
read online of folks relining these pads.   Edson even sells a relining kit but 
it costs about the same ($80 Jamestown Distributers). 

Following the success of other, I planned on relining the pads myself.  As it 
looks I will only need the washer, but if the pads do need replacing in the 
future I surely reline them myself.  It Looks like fun and for less than $10 
one could reline several sets(help out a buddy).   For completeness I included 
material list and Edson's instructions below.  




Materials
- McMaster-Carr  brake liner metal-free  3/16"T   1-1/4"W   
6175K812$3.91/ft
http://www.mcmaster.com/#brake-lining/=s2sqod
- Loctite Black Max Adhesive (or epoxy)

Brake Lining Replacement Instructions (from Edson EB355_689BrakeInstall.PDF)
1. Remove old brake pads. Clean legs with solvent.
2. Bond new pads to brake legs with generous amounts of
supplied adhesive or two-part epoxy.
3. Clamp brake legs around a pipe approximately 1 1/2" in
diameter while the adhesive cures so that the new pads conform
to the shape of the legs.
4. After adhesive has cured, trim brake pads along edges of
brake leges with a band saw or hack saw.
5. Reinstall brake components as described inside and check
operation before installing cotter pin.
6. If brake does not clamp properly, check that washer has been
installed between shaft shoulder and A743 starboard brake leg.




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On May 22, 2014, at 12:54 AM, via CnC-List  wrote:

> Message: 15
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 23:06:48 -0300
> From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
> To: Robert Abbott , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format=flowed
> 
> Hi Rob
> Pretty easy job if the screws come out easily.   If they are seized...
> 1) remove the throttle / shift lever assembly if you have one - you will 
> have to pull the pins connecting the levers to the forks on the cables.  
> Small needlenose pliers are good.  And remove the plate holding the 
> pedestal guard.
> 2) on the end of the brake locking shaft down inside there is a cotter 
> pin, you have to get that off.  needlenose pliers or needlenose vice grips.
> 3) remove the plate on top (two screws at the forward edge of the metal 
> plate that retains the upper ends of the brake pads).
> 4) hold the left pad with vicegrips or pliers, and turn the brake knob 
> to unscrew it off of the threaded shaft.  Remove left pad
> 5) hold the right pad and pull out the brake knob, the right pad slides 
> on/off.
> 
> That's pretty much it.  If you want a hand some evening, I work for 
> beer... :-)
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> 
> On 2014-05-21 7:17 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:
>> Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?
>> 
>> When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
>> should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?
>> 
>> Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
>> work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
>> challenge.
>> 
>> If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
>> compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

Changing the thermostat and allowing the engine to run hotter improving both 
the efficiency in making hot potable water and fuel efficiency.

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On May 22, 2014, at 12:54 AM, via CnC-List  wrote:

> Message: 17
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 22:43:00 -0500
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Why change?  Just let the engine run cooler.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> 1989 C&C 37+
> S/V Sea Hawk
> Solomons, MD
> On May 21, 2014 2:07 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:

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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Video of the event. It sure looks like there isn't enough boat under the
waterline...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEBJjsdTyWY

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 22 May 2014 09:36, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:

> Keel fell off!  Oh it never gets old.
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 22, 2014, at 10:16 AM, William Hall via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Somebody must've flushed really hard??
>
>
> On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 9:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Got love this one:
>>
>> <
>> http://news.yahoo.com/85-foot-luxury-yacht-sinks-during-maiden-launch-010228735.html
>> >
>>
>> Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
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>> page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> William D. Hall, Ph.D.
> 203 653 2886 (o)
> 617 620 9078 (c)
> wh...@alum.mit.edu
>
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Paul, my counter point is that the engine, as Bill Bina put it, was
designed to run a certain temp.  Presumably that of the existing
thermostat.  It sounds like the thermostat is close to 150.  If you heat
the water more than 120-130 there is safety concern regarding scalding.

Changed the stat and you also have to change the high temp switch.

Just my thoughts,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
 On May 22, 2014 1:53 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Hi Josh,
>
> Changing the thermostat and allowing the engine to run hotter improving
> both the efficiency in making hot potable water and fuel efficiency.
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
>
>
>
> On May 22, 2014, at 12:54 AM, via CnC-List  wrote:
>
> Message: 17
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 22:43:00 -0500
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Why change?  Just let the engine run cooler.
>
> Josh Muckley
> 1989 C&C 37+
> S/V Sea Hawk
> Solomons, MD
> On May 21, 2014 2:07 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:
>
>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

That’s what I have always felt about every Carnival Cruise ship I have seen!

<>

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 4:02 PM
To: Brent Driedger; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

 

Video of the event. It sure looks like there 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEBJjsdTyWY




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 22 May 2014 09:36, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
wrote:

Keel fell off!  Oh it never gets old. 

 

Brent Driedger

27-5

Sent from my iPhone


On May 22, 2014, at 10:16 AM, William Hall via CnC-List
 wrote:

Somebody must've flushed really hard??

 

On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 9:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
 wrote:

Got love this one:Â  



Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


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-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
203 653 2886   (o)
617 620 9078   (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu 

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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

The C&C connection to the yacht builder (not this failure to launch event) is a 
naval architect who worked at Northern Marine between 1998 and 2004 also was a 
naval architect at C&C between 1984 and 1986.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 1:02 PM
To: Brent Driedger; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

Video of the event. It sure looks like there isn't enough boat under the 
waterline...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEBJjsdTyWY

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Folding prop

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Gee, Andy,

I'm really surprised nobody replied yet.  There's usually a decent
discussion on folders.  Most fall into two camps, the Martec detractors and
the Flex-O-Fold supporters.  I swing a Martec 2 blade folder on Touche'.
As a racer I like it but many do not because of its perceived lack of
reverse power.

Call each supplier and get recommendations and pricing.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 10:04 AM, andrew rothweiler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello, can someone  give advice on selecting a folding prop that would be
> matched with an Atomic 4 in a 35-2?
> Thanks in advance.
> Andy R
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

[via CnC-List]

‎I think you guys are all missing the point.Raw water cooled engines run cool in an attempt to limit the crap (salts etc.) coming out of solution and clogging up your cooling chambers in the block. They sacrifice efficiency to ‎extend the life of your block. Fresh water cooled engines don't have crap in the cooling water so are able to run at designed (efficient)  temps.   sam :-)C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 2:10 PMTo: C&C ListReply To: Josh MuckleySubject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted systemPaul, my counter point is that the engine, as Bill Bina put it, was designed to run a certain temp.  Presumably that of the existing thermostat.  It sounds like the thermostat is close to 150.  If you heat the water more than 120-130 there is safety concern regarding scalding.  

Changed the stat and you also have to change the high temp switch.
Just my thoughts,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 22, 2014 1:53 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:
Hi Josh,Changing the thermostat and allowing the engine to run hotter improving both the efficiency in making hot potable water and fuel efficiency.

-Paul E.1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna RoseCarrabelle, FL




On May 22, 2014, at 12:54 AM, via CnC-List  wrote:Message: 17
Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 22:43:00 -0500
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system
Message-ID:
	
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Why change?  Just let the engine run cooler.

Josh Muckley
1989 C&C 37+
S/V Sea Hawk
Solomons, MD
On May 21, 2014 2:07 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:
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Re: Stus-List Folding prop

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Every time this discussion comes up I mention the Kiwi prop which is less 
expensive and more advanced than the others but to no avail.  A friend put one 
on his Sweden 38 and claims he gained a knot of speed under sail and under 
power.   They are lighter and non-metalic so do not corrode.  Made in New 
Zeland.  Check their web site. kiwiprops.com.  Jerry - C&C 27-5. 
 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: andrew rothweiler ; CnClist 
Sent: Thu, May 22, 2014 6:42 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop



Gee, Andy,


I'm really surprised nobody replied yet.  There's usually a decent discussion 
on folders.  Most fall into two camps, the Martec detractors and the 
Flex-O-Fold supporters.  I swing a Martec 2 blade folder on Touche'.  As a 
racer I like it but many do not because of its perceived lack of reverse power.


Call each supplier and get recommendations and pricing.



Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA








On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 10:04 AM, andrew rothweiler via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hello, can someone  give advice on selecting a folding prop that would be 
matched with an Atomic 4 in a 35-2?
Thanks in advance.
Andy R


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Re: Stus-List Folding prop

[Charles Nelson via CnC-List]

I sprung for a Gori Racing folder about 3 years ago after some internet 
research on prop drag. The Gori's drag was so low as to be almost immeasurable 
compared to almost all others on the market in the Yachting article.

It or any other prop must be matched to the engine/transmission/boat 
displacement and room to spin without interference from the hull which can lead 
to cavitation or other problems.

It takes some time for it to get the boat moving in reverse but likely not more 
than other 2 blade folders.

At yearly haul outs, it is barnacle free and after the teeth are cleaned up and 
greased, it works like new. Of course, my boat bottom and prop are cleaned no 
less than monthly and it stays in the water year round.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb



Sent from my iPad

> On May 22, 2014, at 8:26 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Every time this discussion comes up I mention the Kiwi prop which is less 
> expensive and more advanced than the others but to no avail.  A friend put 
> one on his Sweden 38 and claims he gained a knot of speed under sail and 
> under power.   They are lighter and non-metalic so do not corrode.  Made in 
> New Zeland.  Check their web site. kiwiprops.com.  Jerry - C&C 27-5. 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> To: andrew rothweiler ; CnClist 
> Sent: Thu, May 22, 2014 6:42 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop
> 
> Gee, Andy,
> 
> I'm really surprised nobody replied yet.  There's usually a decent discussion 
> on folders.  Most fall into two camps, the Martec detractors and the 
> Flex-O-Fold supporters.  I swing a Martec 2 blade folder on Touche'.  As a 
> racer I like it but many do not because of its perceived lack of reverse 
> power.
> 
> Call each supplier and get recommendations and pricing.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 10:04 AM, andrew rothweiler via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello, can someone  give advice on selecting a folding prop that would be 
>> matched with an Atomic 4 in a 35-2?
>> Thanks in advance.
>> Andy R
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[kirk sneddon via CnC-List]

Under the design waterline ,although one could make a strong argument that in 
this case that situation was self correcting.

 

Kirk Sneddon

C&C 29 Mk II 

Flying Cloud

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 4:02 PM
To: Brent Driedger; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

 

Video of the event. It sure looks like there isn't enough boat under the 
waterline...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEBJjsdTyWY




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 22 May 2014 09:36, Brent Driedger via CnC-List  wrote:

Keel fell off!  Oh it never gets old. 

 

Brent Driedger

27-5

Sent from my iPhone


On May 22, 2014, at 10:16 AM, William Hall via CnC-List  
wrote:

Somebody must've flushed really hard??

 

On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 9:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Got love this one:  



Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


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-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
203 653 2886   (o)
617 620 9078   (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu 

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

[via CnC-List]

‎The same reason your car runs at or above boiling in a pressurised system. Less heat (energy) goes out with the cooling water, and instead goes out the output shaft as torque.There's also some thermodynamic stuff going on in the combustion chambers, but as I get older, my brain fills up quicker and the details elude me!  sam :-) From: Josh MuckleySent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 6:45 PMTo: sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted systemWhat is the process which causes higher temps to be more effiecient?
Better combustion?  Thinner oil?
Josh
On May 22, 2014 6:57 PM, "via CnC-List"  wrote:

I think you guys are all missing the point.
Raw water cooled engines run cool in an attempt to limit the crap (salts etc.) coming out of solution and clogging up your cooling chambers in the block. 
They sacrifice efficiency to extend the life of your block. 
Fresh water cooled engines don't have crap in the cooling water so are able to run at designed (efficient)  temps. 
 
 
sam :-)C&C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 
   
  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 2:10 PMTo: C&C ListReply To: Josh MuckleySubject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

Paul, my counter point is that the engine, as Bill Bina put it, was designed to run a certain temp.  Presumably that of the existing thermostat.  It sounds like the thermostat is close to 150.  If you heat the water more than 120-130 there is safety concern regarding scalding.  


Changed the stat and you also have to change the high temp switch.
Just my thoughts,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 22, 2014 1:53 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:

Hi Josh,Changing the thermostat and allowing the engine to run hotter improving both the efficiency in making hot potable water and fuel efficiency.


-Paul E.1981 C&C Landfall 38

S/V Johanna RoseCarrabelle, FL




On May 22, 2014, at 12:54 AM, via CnC-List  wrote:Message: 17

Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 22:43:00 -0500

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 

To: "C&C List" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

Message-ID:

	

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"



Why change?  Just let the engine run cooler.



Josh Muckley

1989 C&C 37+

S/V Sea Hawk

Solomons, MD

On May 21, 2014 2:07 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:

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Stus-List Fwd: Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

[via CnC-List]

Josh,
 
I've always been told that it has more to do  with more complete combustion 
of the fuel at a higher temperature, especially  for diesel engines. Diesel 
engines operated at to low a temperature tend to clog  the exhaust manifold 
and exhaust with carbon, similar to what also happens if a  diesel engine 
is run at to low an RPM.
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
Landfall 39
 
 
  

 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply-to: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
To:  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: 5/22/2014 10:15:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight  Time
Subj: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted  system


‎The  same reason your car runs at or above boiling in a pressurised 
system. Less  heat (energy) goes out with the cooling water, and instead goes 
out 
the output  shaft as torque.
There's  also some thermodynamic stuff going on in the combustion chambers, 
but as I  get older, my brain fills up quicker and the details elude me!


sam  :-)
 
From: Josh Muckley
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 6:45 PM
To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted  system




What is the process which causes higher temps to be more  effiecient? 
Better combustion?  Thinner oil? 
Josh 
On May 22, 2014 6:57 PM, "via CnC-List" <_cnc-list@cnc-list.com_ 
(mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com) > wrote:


I  think you guys are all missing the point.


Raw  water cooled engines run cool in an attempt to limit the crap (salts 
etc.)  coming out of solution and clogging up your cooling chambers in the  
block. 
They  sacrifice efficiency to extend the life of your block. 
Fresh  water cooled engines don't have crap in the cooling water so are 
able to run  at designed (efficient)  temps. 


sam  :-)
C&C  26 Liquorice 
Ghost  Lake Alberta 



From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 2:10 PM
To: C&C List
Reply To: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for  converted system




Paul, my counter point is that the engine, as Bill Bina put it,  was 
designed to run a certain temp.  Presumably that of the existing  thermostat.  
It 
sounds like the thermostat is close to 150.  If  you heat the water more 
than 120-130 there is safety concern regarding  scalding.   
Changed the stat and you also have to change the high temp  switch.
Just my thoughts, 
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD
On May 22, 2014 1:53 PM, "PME via CnC-List" <_cnc-list@cnc-list.com_ 
(mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com) > wrote:

Hi Josh,  


Changing the thermostat and allowing the engine to run hotter  improving 
both the efficiency in making hot potable water and fuel  efficiency.


 
-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall  38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle,  FL








On May 22, 2014, at 12:54 AM, via CnC-List <_cnc-list@cnc-list.com_ 
(mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com) > wrote:


Message:  17
Date:  Wed, 21 May 2014 22:43:00 -0500
From:  Josh Muckley via CnC-List <_cnc-list@cnc-list.com_ 
(mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com) >
To:  "C&C List" <_cnc-list@cnc-list.com_ (mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com) >
Subject:  Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system
Message-ID:
<_CA+zaCRCycHH9bXfOgJ6MdjN02sDy10LYERg3v-0=QjRu5N2Z5Q@mail.gmail.com_ 
(mailto:CA+zaCRCycHH9bXfOgJ6MdjN02sDy10LYERg3v-0=qjru5n2...@mail.gmail.com) >
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Why  change?  Just let the engine run cooler.

Josh  Muckley
1989  C&C 37+
S/V  Sea Hawk
Solomons,  MD
On  May 21, 2014 2:07 PM, "PME via CnC-List" <_cnc-list@cnc-list.com_ 
(mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com) >  wrote:





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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

"When in doubt read the directions? " 
Check your owners manuals and it should specify typically 165 to 195 degrees 
for a diesel engine. 
I checked my Universal M4-30 manual and that's what is said on page 12. All 
models except their M-15 which should run 135 to 155 degrees. 

Best advice I can think of; find the operating temperature for your make and 
model engine. Get your manual or google the internet. 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 10:30:55 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Fwd: Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system 

Josh, 
I've always been told that it has more to do with more complete combustion of 
the fuel at a higher temperature, especially for diesel engines. Diesel engines 
operated at to low a temperature tend to clog the exhaust manifold and exhaust 
with carbon, similar to what also happens if a diesel engine is run at to low 
an RPM. 
Bill 
MYSTY 
Landfall 39 




From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Reply-to: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: 5/22/2014 10:15:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time 
Subj: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system 
‎The same reason your car runs at or above boiling in a pressurised system. 
Less heat (energy) goes out with the cooling water, and instead goes out the 
output shaft as torque. 
There's also some thermodynamic stuff going on in the combustion chambers, but 
as I get older, my brain fills up quicker and the details elude me! 

sam :-) 
From: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 6:45 PM 
To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system 




What is the process which causes higher temps to be more effiecient? 

Better combustion? Thinner oil? 

Josh 
On May 22, 2014 6:57 PM, "via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



I think you guys are all missing the point. 

Raw water cooled engines run cool in an attempt to limit the crap (salts etc.) 
coming out of solution and clogging up your cooling chambers in the block. 
They sacrifice efficiency to extend the life of your block. 
Fresh water cooled engines don't have crap in the cooling water so are able to 
run at designed (efficient) temps. 

sam :-) 
C&C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 2:10 PM 
To: C&C List 
Reply To: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system 




Paul, my counter point is that the engine, as Bill Bina put it, was designed to 
run a certain temp. Presumably that of the existing thermostat. It sounds like 
the thermostat is close to 150. If you heat the water more than 120-130 there 
is safety concern regarding scalding. 

Changed the stat and you also have to change the high temp switch. 


Just my thoughts, 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
On May 22, 2014 1:53 PM, "PME via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



Hi Josh, 

Changing the thermostat and allowing the engine to run hotter improving both 
the efficiency in making hot potable water and fuel efficiency. 

- 
Paul E. 
1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose 
Carrabelle, FL 




On May 22, 2014, at 12:54 AM, via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



Message: 17 
Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 22:43:00 -0500 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: "C&C List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system 
Message-ID: 
< CA+zaCRCycHH9bXfOgJ6MdjN02sDy10LYERg3v-0=qjru5n2...@mail.gmail.com > 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" 

Why change? Just let the engine run cooler. 

Josh Muckley 
1989 C&C 37+ 
S/V Sea Hawk 
Solomons, MD 
On May 21, 2014 2:07 PM, "PME via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 




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Re: Stus-List restoration and relaunch

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Loved that video. I wish I had the skills to work on a Fife like that. My 
favorite is Eric Taberly's Pen Duick. 
I like the craftsman's comment, "This group of guys worked together on the last 
project and did a great job, but this project is our best work." meaning they 
get better on each project. Wow, what a great place to work. That Fife is in 
better condition than new. Leather covered mast hoops! 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 11:25:19 AM 
Subject: Stus-List restoration and relaunch 

As beautiful as our old C&C’s are, you should check out this video on another 
beautiful classic: 

http://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/bringing-boats-life-rockport-marine/?awt_l=93Npw&awt_m=3V.w9dhEfr44w9k
 

Amazing handiwork… 



Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( 


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