Re: Stus-List APS Sale
Just received my rigging order from them. Exactly as described. BTW - no discount on premade halyards. All in all a great experience - ordered Monday received it Thursday with all ends nicely finished. I went with the Yale product for a significant savings over StaSet. Between that and the sale I came in about 35% lower than budget (staset with defender/rigging only) A huge savings when you're replacing most sheets and control lines on a 40' boat. They responded instantly to my questions. Highly recommended outfit based on my single experience. Defender had a similar sale last month so timing is everything. John Sent from my iPad > On Jan 10, 2014, at 4:46 PM, David Knecht wrote: > > Actually, the sale is for 15% off line and 25% off labor. You have to read > the fine print to figure that out. That discount makes the price equivalent > to normal Defender pricing for lines they both carry. Dave > >> On Jan 1, 2014, at 4:37 PM, Joel Aronson wrote: >> >> Happy New Year all! >> >> APS has 25% of all line and rigging in January. >> >> Joel >> >> >> -- >> Joel >> 301 541 8551 >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > David Knecht, Ph.D. > Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility > Department of Molecular and Cell Biology > U-3125 > 91 N. Eagleville Rd. > University of Connecticut > Storrs, CT 06269 > 860-486-2200 > 860-486-4331 (fax) > > > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Comparing boats for purchase
Andrew, The two boats are very similar, but each boat probably has conditions that it will excel in. The C&C is narrower and lighter. It might do better in light air. In light air the CS with a wider beam, deeper draft, and an extra ton of weight might sail slower. In heavy air, the CS might do better than the C&C. Some of the 35-2 owners might confirm this. I know my 35-3 loves the light air and holds its own in the heavy stuff. Jake From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of andrew rothweiler Sent: Friday, January 10, 2014 7:29 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Comparing boats for purchase Hello All, Requesting some advice about interpreting data/stats on 2 boats I'm considering for purchase. Having a boat that has the traveler and genoa winches easy to reach from behind the helm is a key factor for me so that control/single handing will be easier. Also, I'm using PHRF numbers to help determine which boat might be more competitive in club races. So the two boats are a C&C 35-2 and a CS 36T. The stats I'm using are from the PHRF site and SailboataData.com: (don't know how this chart will come out on the forum) LOA LWL B D SA DISP SA/DISP DISP/LWL FORE/MAIN SAIL AREAS C&C 35-2 PHRF 123-139-12635' 30.77 10.58 5.58 629sf13,800 17.56 224.34 352.5/276.75 CS36T PHRF 123-135-12636.5 29.92 11.5 6.35 640sf 15,500 16.53 258.34 367.5/272.53 My main question is how can the CS36 have a nearly identical PHRF to the C&C when the CS 1) weighs almost 2,000lbs more and 2) doesn't compensate for the weight with a lot more sail area, the total sail areas being almost the same? What other factors must be considered in understanding why a similar size boat with almost the same waterline and sail area but weighs a ton more has the same PHRF? What am I missing? Which of the two boats would do better in club races and around the marks? Thanks in advance for your help in understanding this. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List mounting solar panels
I've decided to replace our flexible solar panel (mounted on the front hatch) with a rigid one - more power for the same size, cheaper, and lasts longer. Am debating whether to mount it on the bimini frame or off the stern rail. The bimini mount would be nice except that we always collapse the bimini (with canvas) when off the boat or when it's windy, so we couldn't leave the panel mounted (or is there a way to do it?). Off the stern rail seems to be common - what mounts do you recommend? Are the clamps on the rail strong enough to support the panel without diagonal braces down to the taffrail? Do you have specific recommendations for mounts? The panel (50 watt) is about 20 X 26 inches and weighs around 10 lbs. Eric Frank Cat's Paw C&C 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List The passing of Hugh Rugeromi
One the midwest's pioneer C&C dealers has passed away. Hugh Burr Rugeroni had Burr Sailboats on Lake Ste Clair, Michigan and was responsible for the large population of C&Cs in the area including a still very active 35 fleet. Hugh was a very charming man with charisma and an infectious smile and will be missed... R.I.P. and smooth waters, Hugh! Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels
I have mine mounted on the Bimini. The mount will likely weigh more than the panel. Ours are set up so that they also serve to keep the Bimini stretched open so there is no need for straps forward. With that said taking the Bimini off is a nuisance, folding it is impossible. We've had this arrangement for years on two boats. I've never folded the Bimini when off the boat. With the small panel you could also consider mounting on the dodger or under the boom forward of the companionway. Less output due to shade but probably still more than a small flexible panel. Not a fan of anything rail mounted hanging over the boat but that's just me. John Sent from my iPad > On Jan 11, 2014, at 10:09 AM, Eric Frank wrote: > > I've decided to replace our flexible solar panel (mounted on the front hatch) > with a rigid one - more power for the same size, cheaper, and lasts longer. > Am debating whether to mount it on the bimini frame or off the stern rail. > The bimini mount would be nice except that we always collapse the bimini > (with canvas) when off the boat or when it's windy, so we couldn't leave the > panel mounted (or is there a way to do it?). Off the stern rail seems to be > common - what mounts do you recommend? Are the clamps on the rail strong > enough to support the panel without diagonal braces down to the taffrail? Do > you have specific recommendations for mounts? The panel (50 watt) is about > 20 X 26 inches and weighs around 10 lbs. > > Eric Frank > Cat's Paw > C&C 35 Mk II > Mattapoisett, MA > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels
I just received a 50W panel that I plan to install in the spring. I plan to put velcro strips on the sliding companionway hatch and mount it there when I am not on the boat and move it below when I am. Dave On Jan 11, 2014, at 11:42 AM, j...@svpaws.net wrote: > I have mine mounted on the Bimini. The mount will likely weigh more than > the panel. Ours are set up so that they also serve to keep the Bimini > stretched open so there is no need for straps forward. With that said taking > the Bimini off is a nuisance, folding it is impossible. We've had this > arrangement for years on two boats. I've never folded the Bimini when off > the boat. > > With the small panel you could also consider mounting on the dodger or under > the boom forward of the companionway. Less output due to shade but probably > still more than a small flexible panel. > > Not a fan of anything rail mounted hanging over the boat but that's just me. > > John > > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jan 11, 2014, at 10:09 AM, Eric Frank wrote: > >> I've decided to replace our flexible solar panel (mounted on the front >> hatch) with a rigid one - more power for the same size, cheaper, and lasts >> longer. Am debating whether to mount it on the bimini frame or off the >> stern rail. The bimini mount would be nice except that we always collapse >> the bimini (with canvas) when off the boat or when it's windy, so we >> couldn't leave the panel mounted (or is there a way to do it?). Off the >> stern rail seems to be common - what mounts do you recommend? Are the >> clamps on the rail strong enough to support the panel without diagonal >> braces down to the taffrail? Do you have specific recommendations for >> mounts? The panel (50 watt) is about 20 X 26 inches and weighs around 10 >> lbs. >> >> Eric Frank >> Cat's Paw >> C&C 35 Mk II >> Mattapoisett, MA >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax) ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels
Just realized it would be much easier to mount the panel on the pole (which runs right along side the backstay) that supports the radar dome. Side-pole mounts are quite available, not expensive, and with that I can put the panel above where the bimini is located. Also like the idea of getting it off the rail. Thanks for the comments from Dave and John. Eric > From: David Knecht > To: CnC CnC discussion list > Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I just received a 50W panel that I plan to install in the spring. I plan to > put velcro strips on the sliding companionway hatch and mount it there when I > am not on the boat and move it below when I am. Dave > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels
Consider angleing the panel to the same/approximate degree as your normal latitude. Envision the sun's rays impacting at a right angle to the face of the panel. You can use a small rod or bolt extending perpendicular to the panel. At high noon adjust the panel so that there is little to no shadow cast from the bolt. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk Solomons, MD On Jan 11, 2014 1:31 PM, "Eric Frank" wrote: > Just realized it would be much easier to mount the panel on the pole > (which runs right along side the backstay) that supports the radar dome. > Side-pole mounts are quite available, not expensive, and with that I can > put the panel above where the bimini is located. Also like the idea of > getting it off the rail. > > Thanks for the comments from Dave and John. > > Eric > > > From: David Knecht > > To: CnC CnC discussion list > > Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels > > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > I just received a 50W panel that I plan to install in the spring. I > plan to put velcro strips on the sliding companionway hatch and mount it > there when I am not on the boat and move it below when I am. Dave > > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels
Well, I don't see where angling would help much.you might get optimum positioning on the day you installed but.surely the boat won't stay angled the same way to the sun all the time, especially while under sail.would not collector face up and parallel to the water be the best for maximum output? _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley Sent: January 11, 2014 2:38 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels Consider angleing the panel to the same/approximate degree as your normal latitude. Envision the sun's rays impacting at a right angle to the face of the panel. You can use a small rod or bolt extending perpendicular to the panel. At high noon adjust the panel so that there is little to no shadow cast from the bolt. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk Solomons, MD On Jan 11, 2014 1:31 PM, "Eric Frank" wrote: Just realized it would be much easier to mount the panel on the pole (which runs right along side the backstay) that supports the radar dome. Side-pole mounts are quite available, not expensive, and with that I can put the panel above where the bimini is located. Also like the idea of getting it off the rail. Thanks for the comments from Dave and John. Eric > From: David Knecht > To: CnC CnC discussion list > Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I just received a 50W panel that I plan to install in the spring. I plan to put velcro strips on the sliding companionway hatch and mount it there when I am not on the boat and move it below when I am. Dave > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6494 - Release Date: 01/11/14 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Comparing boats for purchase
Andrew: After sailing on both boats, I wouldn't recommend you make your decision based on PHRF ratings. Both boats will sail to their numbers with the right crew. A little story to help put things into perspective.a few seasons back, I crewed on Beneteau 49 at our club for some of the Wednesday night races (around the cans, short courses).well, given that the B49 was the heaviest displacement boat in the fleet, we normally finished last or second last.sometimes we would beat one other boat in the fleet, can't t remember the make, a 40 odd footer family sailed with young kids. The lighter displacement boats, no matter how they were crewed, simply had an advantage over us on short courses. A little puff, and they accelerate regardless of the big sail area of the the B49. Don't know if this helps? Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 -84 Halifax, N.S. PS:Now after the race(s), the B49 had cabin heat, hot popcorn from the microwave, plenty of adult beverages, the Playboy channel on the big screen TV, other 'eye candy', in high Summer in bikinis.finishing last had it's benefits, I guess. *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *andrew rothweiler *Sent:* Friday, January 10, 2014 7:29 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List Comparing boats for purchase Hello All, Requesting some advice about interpreting data/stats on 2 boats I'm considering for purchase. Having a boat that has the traveler and genoa winches easy to reach from behind the helm is a key factor for me so that control/single handing will be easier. Also, I'm using PHRF numbers to help determine which boat might be more competitive in club races. So the two boats are a C&C 35-2 and a CS 36T. The stats I'm using are from the PHRF site and SailboataData.com: (don't know how this chart will come out on the forum) LOA LWL B D SA DISP SA/DISP DISP/LWL FORE/MAIN SAIL AREAS C&C 35-2 PHRF 123-139-12635' 30.77 10.58 5.58 629sf 13,800 17.56 224.34 352.5/276.75 CS36T PHRF 123-135-12636.5 29.92 11.5 6.35 640sf 15,500 16.53 258.34 367.5/272.53 My main question is how can the CS36 have a nearly identical PHRF to the C&C when the CS 1) weighs almost 2,000lbs more and 2) doesn't compensate for the weight with a lot more sail area, the total sail areas being almost the same? What other factors must be considered in understanding why a similar size boat with almost the same waterline and sail area but weighs a ton more has the same PHRF? What am I missing? Which of the two boats would do better in club races and around the marks? Thanks in advance for your help in understanding this. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List The passing of Hugh Rugeromi
This is indeed sad news. Hugh Rugeroni was one of the pioneers. On Sat, Jan 11, 2014 at 10:39 AM, Greg Swetka wrote: > One the midwest's pioneer C&C dealers has passed away. Hugh Burr Rugeroni > had Burr Sailboats on Lake Ste Clair, Michigan and was responsible for the > large population of C&Cs in the area including a still very active 35 fleet. > Hugh was a very charming man with charisma and an infectious smile and > will be missed... R.I.P. and smooth waters, Hugh! > > Sent from my iPhone > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels
Orienting the panel directly facing the solar radiation is most efficient. I know cruisers who have panels that they can adjust throughout the day to get maximum output. Personally, I think that is a PITA. Orienting the panel at an angle off vertical equal to your latitude is the next step. Also note it should be set up in the direction the sun is in when you are sitting in the slip and the boat isn't moving. The panels should be fairly efficient from around 2 hours before to 2 hours after local apparent noon. You should plan to adjust them in spring and fall to allow for the travel of the sun north to south over time. And, of course, the panels won't do bupkus when you are sailing, unless you happen to be going in a direction parallel to the centerline of your slip. Mounting the panels facing straight up is a third alternative. You would get good efficiency from 10 to 2 if you are near the Equator, whether at a dock, spinning on a mooring, or sailing. Not so much so the further North you go, because the panels loose efficiency a lot when not facing the sun by more than 30 degrees. But you never need to adjust them. And since I understand the plan is to put in a 50 watt panel, which basically is for trickle charging your battery bank when you are not on the boat, and not a source of power when cruising, mounted flat is by far the easiest sort of installation. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2014 2:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels Well, I don't see where angling would help much.you might get optimum positioning on the day you installed but.surely the boat won't stay angled the same way to the sun all the time, especially while under sail.would not collector face up and parallel to the water be the best for maximum output? _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley Sent: January 11, 2014 2:38 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels Consider angleing the panel to the same/approximate degree as your normal latitude. Envision the sun's rays impacting at a right angle to the face of the panel. You can use a small rod or bolt extending perpendicular to the panel. At high noon adjust the panel so that there is little to no shadow cast from the bolt. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk Solomons, MD On Jan 11, 2014 1:31 PM, "Eric Frank" wrote: Just realized it would be much easier to mount the panel on the pole (which runs right along side the backstay) that supports the radar dome. Side-pole mounts are quite available, not expensive, and with that I can put the panel above where the bimini is located. Also like the idea of getting it off the rail. Thanks for the comments from Dave and John. Eric > From: David Knecht > To: CnC CnC discussion list > Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I just received a 50W panel that I plan to install in the spring. I plan to put velcro strips on the sliding companionway hatch and mount it there when I am not on the boat and move it below when I am. Dave > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6494 - Release Date: 01/11/14 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Cockpit Drains to Thru-Hulls
I have a C&C 32 which has two drains in the cockpit both are connected to separate seacocks (GROCO SV-1500) below the waterline, needless to say both seacocks are difficult to get to, as a result they are both seized in the open position. Has anyone changed this setup to drain water out above the waterline and if so, do you have any problems with water backing up into the cockpit when underway. Thanks ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Freeing a stuck Y valve on a 30-2
Any advice? Thanks! Sent from my Tablet ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Freeing a stuck Y valve on a 30-2
It's in the head. Never gets turned... now it won't. Sent from my Tablet On Jan 11, 2014 2:05 PM, "Kevin Driscoll" wrote: > Any advice? > > Thanks! > > Sent from my Tablet > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Cockpit Drains to Thru-Hulls
Personally, I'm not a great fan of boats that drain the cockpit through scuppers in the transom. Let's just say my experience has been less than stellar. And I would think drilling a couple of 1 1/2" holes into the sides of the boat, then putting seacocks in there is both ugly and results in seacocks that are also hard to reach. Maintenance on the SV series Groco valves looks to be pretty easy, and unsiezing them looks pretty straightforward. See http://www.groco.net/SVC-MAN-07/Sec4/PDF/SV.pdf . Looks like it would be something to put on your list of things to do on the next haul out. BTW, when was the last time you changed the scupper hoses? Rick Brass -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Charlesworth Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2014 4:09 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Cockpit Drains to Thru-Hulls I have a C&C 32 which has two drains in the cockpit both are connected to separate seacocks (GROCO SV-1500) below the waterline, needless to say both seacocks are difficult to get to, as a result they are both seized in the open position. Has anyone changed this setup to drain water out above the waterline and if so, do you have any problems with water backing up into the cockpit when underway. Thanks ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Cockpit Drains to Thru-Hulls
John: My advice to you is to unseize your seacocks and/or replace them if unseizing is not possible. I would not change the setup to drain out above the waterline. Just how would you go about doing this? Doesn't make sense. In doing so, are you going to leave the existing seacocks seized in the 'open position'? And how? Don't think your surveyor/insurance company would like that! The 'port seacock' is easy to get at on my boat.empty the port lazarette, climb down and there you have it astern..the starboard seacock is more of a challengeopen the 'hatch' at the back of the quarterberth and look init right in front of you. Don't think you have any choice but deal with the seized seacocks! Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/01/11 5:09 PM, John Charlesworth wrote: I have a C&C 32 which has two drains in the cockpit both are connected to separate seacocks (GROCO SV-1500) below the waterline, needless to say both seacocks are difficult to get to, as a result they are both seized in the open position. Has anyone changed this setup to drain water out above the waterline and if so, do you have any problems with water backing up into the cockpit when underway. Thanks ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Freeing a stuck Y valve on a 30-2
What brand is it? Some are fixable, some are trash. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 11 January 2014 14:07, Kevin Driscoll wrote: > It's in the head. Never gets turned... now it won't. > > Sent from my Tablet > On Jan 11, 2014 2:05 PM, "Kevin Driscoll" wrote: > >> Any advice? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Sent from my Tablet >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Freeing a stuck Y valve on a 30-2
It may be Jabsco but I really can't tell. Not labeled but gray plastic. Attached is a link to photo: https://www.dropbox.com/s/c5jfrzvhxhdx2j5/IMG_20140111_151925.jpg Thanks Sent from a mobile device. On Jan 11, 2014 3:09 PM, "Jim Watts" wrote: > What brand is it? Some are fixable, some are trash. > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > > On 11 January 2014 14:07, Kevin Driscoll wrote: > >> It's in the head. Never gets turned... now it won't. >> >> Sent from my Tablet >> On Jan 11, 2014 2:05 PM, "Kevin Driscoll" >> wrote: >> >>> Any advice? >>> >>> Thanks! >>> >>> Sent from my Tablet >>> >>> ___ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> >>> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Freeing a stuck Y valve on a 30-2
Marelon/fore spar? On Saturday, January 11, 2014, Kevin Driscoll wrote: > It may be Jabsco but I really can't tell. Not labeled but gray plastic. > Attached is a link to photo: > https://www.dropbox.com/s/c5jfrzvhxhdx2j5/IMG_20140111_151925.jpg > > Thanks > > Sent from a mobile device. > On Jan 11, 2014 3:09 PM, "Jim Watts" > 'paradigmat...@gmail.com');>> > wrote: > >> What brand is it? Some are fixable, some are trash. >> >> Jim Watts >> Paradigm Shift >> C&C 35 Mk III >> Victoria, BC >> >> >> On 11 January 2014 14:07, Kevin Driscoll >> > 'kevindrisc...@gmail.com');> >> > wrote: >> >>> It's in the head. Never gets turned... now it won't. >>> >>> Sent from my Tablet >>> On Jan 11, 2014 2:05 PM, "Kevin Driscoll" >>> >> 'kevindrisc...@gmail.com');>> >>> wrote: >>> Any advice? Thanks! Sent from my Tablet ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> 'CnC-List@cnc-list.com');> >>> ___ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> 'CnC-List@cnc-list.com');> >>> >>> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > 'CnC-List@cnc-list.com');> >> >> -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels
Yeah, it totally messed up my rig for the asym... I really didn't want a sheet to go WHAP against the panels. But everything's a compromise... David Knecht wrote: Not a fan of anything rail mounted hanging over the boat but that's just me. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels
Right. No one really does it year after year. I suppose you could rig up some really cool electronic thing with servo motors that would constantly adjust the panel angle... I've noticed that leaving them down against the side of the boat when underway actually provides reasonable amps. The sun bouncing off the water helps. Other than that, I just stick them up flat and call it a day. Wal Rick Brass wrote: I know cruisers who have panels that they can adjust throughout the day to get maximum output. Personally, I think that is a PITA. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Cockpit Drains to Thru-Hulls
Hi Rob, Nice to here from a fellow model owner. I would take the old seacocks out and glass the hull, put new through hulls in (without valves similar to the propane locker through hull) above the waterline. Our boat is in the water year round, in fact we have not hauled it since we bought it in April 2010, its due this year, paint is getting tired. I know where the seacocks are, but you haven't seen our quarter berth, aka as storage room. I have another Groco SV-1500 on my holding tank discharge, that one is gone next haul out since it was installed in such a way that you can't get the darned plug out if you wanted to, C&C didn't think much about maintenance when they were building these boats. I was hoping to avoid the cost of replacing the two on the cockpit drains, if I can't then I will have to bite the bullet and do all three. The other through hulls are doing just fine, they are tapered brass types, have not been able to identify the brand but they are all working well, I exercise the m regularly. A couple of them weep a bit when closed as they need rebedding, similar to a valve in the cylinder head of a car, however the last time I was in Canadian Tire and asked at the automotive counter for valve grinding paste the guy looked at me like I was from outer space, he couldn't find it on his computer either. John SV Breeze Vancouver, BC On 2014-01-11, at 3:02 PM, Robert Abbott wrote: > John: > > My advice to you is to unseize your seacocks and/or replace them if unseizing > is not possible. I would not change the setup to drain out above the > waterline. > > Just how would you go about doing this? Doesn't make sense. > > In doing so, are you going to leave the existing seacocks seized in the 'open > position'? And how? Don't think your surveyor/insurance company would like > that! > > The 'port seacock' is easy to get at on my boat.empty the port lazarette, > climb down and there you have it astern..the starboard seacock is more of > a challengeopen the 'hatch' at the back of the quarterberth and look > init right in front of you. > > Don't think you have any choice but deal with the seized seacocks! > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 - 84 > Halifax, N.S. > > > > > On 2014/01/11 5:09 PM, John Charlesworth wrote: >> I have a C&C 32 which has two drains in the cockpit both are connected to >> separate seacocks (GROCO SV-1500) below the waterline, needless to say both >> seacocks are difficult to get to, as a result they are both seized in the >> open position. Has anyone changed this setup to drain water out above the >> waterline and if so, do you have any problems with water backing up into the >> cockpit when underway. >> >> Thanks >> >> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Cockpit Drains to Thru-Hulls
Rick, Thanks for the response, I have been through the whole maintenance issues with the Grovo SV seacocks with Groco. The guy is very helpful. I was not thinking of draining to the transom, but to each side just above the waterline. No valves required as the boat is safe at the dock. Right now is one of those hoses lets loose the boat sinks. This is what I am trying to get away from. We have owned the boat for the last almost 4 years, it hasn't been hauled in that time but is due soon, paint is getting tired. Hence I am thinking about the jobs that need to be done while she is out on the hard. John SV Breeze Vancouver, BC On 2014-01-11, at 2:58 PM, Rick Brass wrote: > Personally, I'm not a great fan of boats that drain the cockpit through > scuppers in the transom. Let's just say my experience has been less than > stellar. And I would think drilling a couple of 1 1/2" holes into the sides > of the boat, then putting seacocks in there is both ugly and results in > seacocks that are also hard to reach. > > Maintenance on the SV series Groco valves looks to be pretty easy, and > unsiezing them looks pretty straightforward. See > http://www.groco.net/SVC-MAN-07/Sec4/PDF/SV.pdf . Looks like it would be > something to put on your list of things to do on the next haul out. > > BTW, when was the last time you changed the scupper hoses? > > Rick Brass > > -Original Message- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John > Charlesworth > Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2014 4:09 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List Cockpit Drains to Thru-Hulls > > I have a C&C 32 which has two drains in the cockpit both are connected to > separate seacocks (GROCO SV-1500) below the waterline, needless to say both > seacocks are difficult to get to, as a result they are both seized in the > open position. Has anyone changed this setup to drain water out above the > waterline and if so, do you have any problems with water backing up into the > cockpit when underway. > > Thanks > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Freeing a stuck Y valve on a 30-2
It's a Bosworth. Looks fixable... http://www.thebosworthco.com/sexploded.php?ID=YV-095D-F Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 11 January 2014 15:25, Kevin Driscoll wrote: > It may be Jabsco but I really can't tell. Not labeled but gray plastic. > Attached is a link to photo: > https://www.dropbox.com/s/c5jfrzvhxhdx2j5/IMG_20140111_151925.jpg > > Thanks > > Sent from a mobile device. > On Jan 11, 2014 3:09 PM, "Jim Watts" wrote: > >> What brand is it? Some are fixable, some are trash. >> >> Jim Watts >> Paradigm Shift >> C&C 35 Mk III >> Victoria, BC >> >> >> On 11 January 2014 14:07, Kevin Driscoll wrote: >> >>> It's in the head. Never gets turned... now it won't. >>> >>> Sent from my Tablet >>> On Jan 11, 2014 2:05 PM, "Kevin Driscoll" >>> wrote: >>> Any advice? Thanks! Sent from my Tablet ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> ___ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> >>> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Cockpit Drains to Thru-Hulls
Hi John Try Princess Auto for grinding paste. - Graham Sent from my Xperia™ tablet John Charlesworth wrote >Hi Rob, > >Nice to here from a fellow model owner. I would take the old seacocks out and >glass the hull, put new through hulls in (without valves similar to the >propane locker through hull) above the waterline. Our boat is in the water >year round, in fact we have not hauled it since we bought it in April 2010, >its due this year, paint is getting tired. I know where the seacocks are, but >you haven't seen our quarter berth, aka as storage room. I have another Groco >SV-1500 on my holding tank discharge, that one is gone next haul out since it >was installed in such a way that you can't get the darned plug out if you >wanted to, C&C didn't think much about maintenance when they were building >these boats. I was hoping to avoid the cost of replacing the two on the >cockpit drains, if I can't then I will have to bite the bullet and do all >three. The other through hulls are doing just fine, they are tapered brass >types, have not been able to identify the brand but they are all working well, >I exercise them regularly. A couple of them weep a bit when closed as they >need rebedding, similar to a valve in the cylinder head of a car, however the >last time I was in Canadian Tire and asked at the automotive counter for valve >grinding paste the guy looked at me like I was from outer space, he couldn't >find it on his computer either. > >John >SV Breeze >Vancouver, BC > > > >On 2014-01-11, at 3:02 PM, Robert Abbott wrote: > >> John: >> >> My advice to you is to unseize your seacocks and/or replace them if >> unseizing is not possible. I would not change the setup to drain out above >> the waterline. >> >> Just how would you go about doing this? Doesn't make sense. >> >> In doing so, are you going to leave the existing seacocks seized in the >> 'open position'? And how? Don't think your surveyor/insurance company >> would like that! >> >> The 'port seacock' is easy to get at on my boat.empty the port >> lazarette, climb down and there you have it astern..the starboard >> seacock is more of a challengeopen the 'hatch' at the back of the >> quarterberth and look init right in front of you. >> >> Don't think you have any choice but deal with the seized seacocks! >> >> Rob Abbott >> AZURA >> C&C 32 - 84 >> Halifax, N.S. >> >> >> >> >> On 2014/01/11 5:09 PM, John Charlesworth wrote: >>> I have a C&C 32 which has two drains in the cockpit both are connected to >>> separate seacocks (GROCO SV-1500) below the waterline, needless to say both >>> seacocks are difficult to get to, as a result they are both seized in the >>> open position. Has anyone changed this setup to drain water out above the >>> waterline and if so, do you have any problems with water backing up into >>> the cockpit when underway. >>> >>> Thanks >>> >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> >>> >> >> >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > >___ >This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels
Dwight, You are right. I was just thinking about my boat sitting in her slip 95% of the time. I just kinda assumed that Eric was in a similar situation because a 50W panel is really only enough to keep the batteries topped up between outings anyway. Josh On Jan 11, 2014 2:14 PM, "dwight" wrote: > Well, I don’t see where angling would help much…you might get optimum > positioning on the day you installed but…surely the boat won’t stay angled > the same way to the sun all the time, especially while under sail…would not > collector face up and parallel to the water be the best for maximum output? > > > -- > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh > Muckley > *Sent:* January 11, 2014 2:38 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels > > > > Consider angleing the panel to the same/approximate degree as your normal > latitude. Envision the sun's rays impacting at a right angle to the face > of the panel. You can use a small rod or bolt extending perpendicular to > the panel. At high noon adjust the panel so that there is little to no > shadow cast from the bolt. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > Solomons, MD > > On Jan 11, 2014 1:31 PM, "Eric Frank" wrote: > > Just realized it would be much easier to mount the panel on the pole > (which runs right along side the backstay) that supports the radar dome. > Side-pole mounts are quite available, not expensive, and with that I can > put the panel above where the bimini is located. Also like the idea of > getting it off the rail. > > Thanks for the comments from Dave and John. > > Eric > > > From: David Knecht > > To: CnC CnC discussion list > > Subject: Re: Stus-List mounting solar panels > > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > I just received a 50W panel that I plan to install in the spring. I > plan to put velcro strips on the sliding companionway hatch and mount it > there when I am not on the boat and move it below when I am. Dave > > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > -- > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6494 - Release Date: 01/11/14 > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
