Re: Stus-List C&C 30MK!

[Curtis]

Thank's guys. I will use 45' as a rule. This helps a great deal.  my next
step was to climb up there with a tape measure and drop one end down.
I don't want to hit the bridges.  Looking around at other boats around me
docks My nast seams to be taller than most boats my size?



On Wed, Dec 11, 2013 at 6:09 PM, Antoine Rose wrote:

> Don't forget to add for the windvane and antenna, plus safety margin.
> You,re safe to go under any bridge with 45 clearance. Add another safety
> margin for high tension electric wires (beware of lightning arc between the
> wire and your boat.
>
> Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
>
> Le 2013-12-10 à 23:26, Chuck S a écrit :
>
> Hi Curtis,
> Checked the brochure section of Stu's website, mast height of the C&C 30
> MkI,  42' 6" above waterline.
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> --
> *From: *"Curtis" 
> *To: *CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Tuesday, December 10, 2013 9:54:05 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List C&C 30MK!
>
> Any one know the Height of the mast on an 1981 C&C 30MK1 ?
>
>
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30MK!

[Dennis C.]

Curtis,

Tape a yard stick to a halyard so the end will stick up above your masthead.  
Tape a measuring tape to the yard stick.  Hoist the tape until it is where you 
want it.  Swing the tape to the water.  You will have a 2-3 inch safety factor.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>
> From: Curtis 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 8:06 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30MK!
> 
>
>
>Thank's guys. I will use 45' as a rule. This helps a great deal.  my next step 
>was to climb up there with a tape measure and drop one end down. 
>I don't want to hit the bridges.  Looking around at other boats around me 
>docks My nast seams to be taller than most boats my size?
>
>
>
>
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Stus-List Engine Tips

[Bill Coleman]

Here is a great site on Seaboard Marine's site to bookmark for hundreds of
Engine questions, ol' Tony knows everything!

 

>From the Trawler guys.

 

http://www.sbmar.com/tonys-tips.php#engines

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30MK!

[Curtis]

Now thats a idea.



On 12/12/13, Dennis C.  wrote:
> Curtis,
>
> Tape a yard stick to a halyard so the end will stick up above your
> masthead.  Tape a measuring tape to the yard stick.  Hoist the tape until it
> is where you want it.  Swing the tape to the water.  You will have a 2-3
> inch safety factor.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
>>
>> From: Curtis 
>>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 8:06 AM
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30MK!
>>
>>
>>
>>Thank's guys. I will use 45' as a rule. This helps a great deal.  my next
>> step was to climb up there with a tape measure and drop one end down.
>>I don't want to hit the bridges.  Looking around at other boats around me
>> docks My nast seams to be taller than most boats my size?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30MK!

[Joel Aronson]

If you have a masthead antenna add that in too!

Joel


On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 1:34 PM, Curtis  wrote:

> Now thats a idea.
>
>
>
> On 12/12/13, Dennis C.  wrote:
> > Curtis,
> >
> > Tape a yard stick to a halyard so the end will stick up above your
> > masthead.  Tape a measuring tape to the yard stick.  Hoist the tape
> until it
> > is where you want it.  Swing the tape to the water.  You will have a 2-3
> > inch safety factor.
> >
> > Dennis C.
> > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > Mandeville, LA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >> From: Curtis 
> >>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >>Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 8:06 AM
> >>Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30MK!
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Thank's guys. I will use 45' as a rule. This helps a great deal.  my next
> >> step was to climb up there with a tape measure and drop one end down.
> >>I don't want to hit the bridges.  Looking around at other boats around me
> >> docks My nast seams to be taller than most boats my size?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
>
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Josh Muckley]

Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions.  I could have used the
basketball trick and will keep that in my bag of tricks.  Aside from
manipulating the mounts into position (straps, jacks and lots of grunting)
everything else went unremarkable.  I left the aluminum rails in place but
removed the polyethylene blocks (spacers) from the front.  With the jack
nuts all the way down the elignment came in almost perfect.  I have a PYI
shaft seal so there seemed to be quite a bit of "wiggle room".  I did
everything I could to get the shaft centered but it didn't seem to make
much difference.  I do plan to install a PYI shaft coupling that allows up
to 1mm of misalignment, though it don't think it is anywhere close to being
outside of the prescribed 0.3mm.

I posted some pictures of the completed job, the original mounts, and some
stock photos.  The original mounts are made by Vetus and are marketed to be
very good at dampening noise.  Though they don't seem to be very good at
resisting break down. :-/  And they are quite expensive.

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydTdWdDVtZlNYamM/edit

Lingering questions still exsist regarding torque specs and the design of
the boat's foundation.

Thanks again,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk

I replaced my original Yanmar mounts a couple years ago (probably four or
five).  I also use the Drive Saver from PYI.  Self-aligned and no issues to
date.



Jake



*Jake Brodersen*

*“Midnight Mistress”*

*C&C 35 Mk-III*

*Hampton Va*



[image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]







*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rich
Knowles
*Sent:* Wednesday, December 11, 2013 5:55 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts



Hmmm. Interesting but I have to tell you I have had regular flexible mounts
and a Drive Saver flexible coupling on my boat for 15 years with no
problems.  Others may wish to comment.

Rich


On Dec 11, 2013, at 18:47, Don Newman  wrote:

Good post Rick, but one quibble.

If an engine has flexible mounts then it must have a solid not flexible
coupling and vice versa.



I made that mistake when I repose red my last boat and the coupling
destroyed itself with extreme prejudice in a couple of hours of running.
 Everything was aligned but the two components worked against each other.



I learned later that this is an inflexible rule ;-)  sorry I can't provide
a reference but my painful experience bears it out. The original had a
solid mount and flexible coupling and the new engine had flexible mounts so
I used the very substantial coupling.




Don Newman

C&C 44






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CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Jake Brodersen]

Josh,

 

Good job on the replacements.  I know it couldn’t have been easy with the
access you have.  I used Yanmar mounts when I replaced mine.  It was very
simple.   I have the PYI drive saver.  I had to cut the prop shaft to
install it.  While I did the cutting on my own, I would recommend a machine
shop do it because it involve recutting a keyway for the shaft collar.  I
used a 4 ¼” grinder to cut the keyway.  Quick and effective, but far from
ideal.  Time constraints make you do strange things sometimes…  No issues
though.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

 

Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions.  I could have used the
basketball trick and will keep that in my bag of tricks.  Aside from
manipulating the mounts into position (straps, jacks and lots of grunting)
everything else went unremarkable.  I left the aluminum rails in place but
removed the polyethylene blocks (spacers) from the front.  With the jack
nuts all the way down the elignment came in almost perfect.  I have a PYI
shaft seal so there seemed to be quite a bit of "wiggle room".  I did
everything I could to get the shaft centered but it didn't seem to make much
difference.  I do plan to install a PYI shaft coupling that allows up to 1mm
of misalignment, though it don't think it is anywhere close to being outside
of the prescribed 0.3mm.

I posted some pictures of the completed job, the original mounts, and some
stock photos.  The original mounts are made by Vetus and are marketed to be
very good at dampening noise.  Though they don't seem to be very good at
resisting break down. :-/  And they are quite expensive.

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydTdWdDVtZlNYamM/edit

Lingering questions still exsist regarding torque specs and the design of
the boat's foundation.

Thanks again,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk

I replaced my original Yanmar mounts a couple years ago (probably four or
five).  I also use the Drive Saver from PYI.  Self-aligned and no issues to
date.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 5:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

 

Hmmm. Interesting but I have to tell you I have had regular flexible mounts
and a Drive Saver flexible coupling on my boat for 15 years with no
problems.  Others may wish to comment. 

Rich


On Dec 11, 2013, at 18:47, Don Newman  wrote:

Good post Rick, but one quibble.

If an engine has flexible mounts then it must have a solid not flexible
coupling and vice versa.

 

I made that mistake when I repose red my last boat and the coupling
destroyed itself with extreme prejudice in a couple of hours of running.
Everything was aligned but the two components worked against each other. 

 

I learned later that this is an inflexible rule ;-)  sorry I can't provide a
reference but my painful experience bears it out. The original had a solid
mount and flexible coupling and the new engine had flexible mounts so I used
the very substantial coupling.  

 


Don Newman

C&C 44

 

 


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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Josh Muckley]

Jake,

The drive saver is just a thin (1/2") intermediate piece of plastic right?
Why did you have to shorten the shaft?  Nice idea using a grinder.  I would
have been scared out of my mind!

Josh
On Dec 12, 2013 7:45 PM, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:

> Josh,
>
>
>
> Good job on the replacements.  I know it couldn’t have been easy with the
> access you have.  I used Yanmar mounts when I replaced mine.  It was very
> simple.   I have the PYI drive saver.  I had to cut the prop shaft to
> install it.  While I did the cutting on my own, I would recommend a machine
> shop do it because it involve recutting a keyway for the shaft collar.  I
> used a 4 ¼” grinder to cut the keyway.  Quick and effective, but far from
> ideal.  Time constraints make you do strange things sometimes…  No issues
> though.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Hampton Va*
>
>
>
> [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:29 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
>
>
>
> Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions.  I could have used the
> basketball trick and will keep that in my bag of tricks.  Aside from
> manipulating the mounts into position (straps, jacks and lots of grunting)
> everything else went unremarkable.  I left the aluminum rails in place but
> removed the polyethylene blocks (spacers) from the front.  With the jack
> nuts all the way down the elignment came in almost perfect.  I have a PYI
> shaft seal so there seemed to be quite a bit of "wiggle room".  I did
> everything I could to get the shaft centered but it didn't seem to make
> much difference.  I do plan to install a PYI shaft coupling that allows up
> to 1mm of misalignment, though it don't think it is anywhere close to being
> outside of the prescribed 0.3mm.
>
> I posted some pictures of the completed job, the original mounts, and some
> stock photos.  The original mounts are made by Vetus and are marketed to be
> very good at dampening noise.  Though they don't seem to be very good at
> resisting break down. :-/  And they are quite expensive.
>
> https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydTdWdDVtZlNYamM/edit
>
> Lingering questions still exsist regarding torque specs and the design of
> the boat's foundation.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> I replaced my original Yanmar mounts a couple years ago (probably four or
> five).  I also use the Drive Saver from PYI.  Self-aligned and no issues to
> date.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Hampton Va*
>
>
>
> [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rich
> Knowles
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 11, 2013 5:55 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
>
>
>
> Hmmm. Interesting but I have to tell you I have had regular flexible
> mounts and a Drive Saver flexible coupling on my boat for 15 years with no
> problems.  Others may wish to comment.
>
> Rich
>
>
> On Dec 11, 2013, at 18:47, Don Newman  wrote:
>
> Good post Rick, but one quibble.
>
> If an engine has flexible mounts then it must have a solid not flexible
> coupling and vice versa.
>
>
>
> I made that mistake when I repose red my last boat and the coupling
> destroyed itself with extreme prejudice in a couple of hours of running.
>  Everything was aligned but the two components worked against each other.
>
>
>
> I learned later that this is an inflexible rule ;-)  sorry I can't provide
> a reference but my painful experience bears it out. The original had a
> solid mount and flexible coupling and the new engine had flexible mounts so
> I used the very substantial coupling.
>
>
>
>
> Don Newman
>
> C&C 44
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
<>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Josh Muckley]

Jake,

Thanks, it was difficult.  I tried a scissor jack but couldn't turn the
handle because of interferences.  So I did a lot of pushing, pulling and
lifting while my wife tried to un-wedge the old and re-wedge the new.  The
whole time we were both a little fearful of a trip to the ER for a smashed
finger.  The second most difficult part was un-engineering what the PO had
done to install his mounts.  It is always easier when you can see the way
the manufacturer intended it to be originally.

The engine runs smoother now especially at low rpm.  While doing the job I
found the forward starboard mounting bracket on the engine to be loose.
Closer inspection revealed that one of the bolts had been broken and the
remaining one was loose.  I attempted to extract the broken bolt but the
interferences prevented a good angle.  I decided that a new lock washer on
the remaining bolt and increased attention was going to have to suffice for
now.

Much like the Vetus, the Yanmar mounts are supposed to be really good for
absorbing vibrations.  Hutch at PYI refered to them as "marshmallow mounts"
because they are so soft and absorbing.  In some applications, as they get
older, they can flex so much that under heavy forward thrust a dripless
shaft seal will leak.  It happened to me during the sea trial of S/V Blue
Pearl.  We actually cancelled the sea trial because of the surveyor's
concerns over the leak.  Yanmar also advises that you chain or wire the
mount around the middle so that there is no chance of the engine coming
loose in the event that the rubber separates.  I bought a Yanmar mount
prior to deciding on the PYI's.  It was nice to have it as a referance
while doing the job.  It turns out that (unlike the Vetus mounts) the PYI
mounts are designed to be drop in replacements for the Yanmar ones.  Same
size and same stud and hole placement.

So now that I have touted the PYI mounts it does seem that I have a single
Yanmar mount that I have no use for.  I think I paid ~$100 from torson
marine.  It is still in the original packaging.  If someone could use it
please let me know.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
 On Dec 12, 2013 7:45 PM, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:

> Josh,
>
>
>
> Good job on the replacements.  I know it couldn’t have been easy with the
> access you have.  I used Yanmar mounts when I replaced mine.  It was very
> simple.   I have the PYI drive saver.  I had to cut the prop shaft to
> install it.  While I did the cutting on my own, I would recommend a machine
> shop do it because it involve recutting a keyway for the shaft collar.  I
> used a 4 ¼” grinder to cut the keyway.  Quick and effective, but far from
> ideal.  Time constraints make you do strange things sometimes…  No issues
> though.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Hampton Va*
>
>
>
> [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:29 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
>
>
>
> Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions.  I could have used the
> basketball trick and will keep that in my bag of tricks.  Aside from
> manipulating the mounts into position (straps, jacks and lots of grunting)
> everything else went unremarkable.  I left the aluminum rails in place but
> removed the polyethylene blocks (spacers) from the front.  With the jack
> nuts all the way down the elignment came in almost perfect.  I have a PYI
> shaft seal so there seemed to be quite a bit of "wiggle room".  I did
> everything I could to get the shaft centered but it didn't seem to make
> much difference.  I do plan to install a PYI shaft coupling that allows up
> to 1mm of misalignment, though it don't think it is anywhere close to being
> outside of the prescribed 0.3mm.
>
> I posted some pictures of the completed job, the original mounts, and some
> stock photos.  The original mounts are made by Vetus and are marketed to be
> very good at dampening noise.  Though they don't seem to be very good at
> resisting break down. :-/  And they are quite expensive.
>
> https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydTdWdDVtZlNYamM/edit
>
> Lingering questions still exsist regarding torque specs and the design of
> the boat's foundation.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> I replaced my original Yanmar mounts a couple years ago (probably four or
> five).  I also use the Drive Saver from PYI.  Self-aligned and no issues to
> date.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Hampton Va*
>
>
>
> [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rich
> Knowles
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 11, 2013 5:55 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
>
>
>
> Hmmm. Interesti

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts

[Dennis C.]

Might be wise to double-nut the mounting studs.  I've had them come loose on mine.Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LAFrom: Josh Muckley  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 9:53 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts   Jake,
Thanks, it was difficult.  I tried a scissor jack but couldn't turn the handle because of interferences.  So I did a lot of pushing, pulling and lifting while my wife tried to un-wedge the old and re-wedge the new.  The whole time we were both a little fearful of a trip to the ER for a smashed finger.  The second most difficult part was un-engineering what the PO had done to install his mounts.  It is always easier when you can see the way the manufacturer intended it to be originally.  

The engine runs smoother now especially at low rpm.  While doing the job I found the forward starboard mounting bracket on the engine to be loose.  Closer inspection revealed that one of the bolts had been broken and the remaining one was loose.  I attempted to extract the broken bolt but the interferences prevented a good angle.  I decided that a new lock washer on the remaining bolt and increased attention was going to have to suffice for now.

Much like the Vetus, the Yanmar mounts are supposed to be really good for absorbing vibrations.  Hutch at PYI refered to them as "marshmallow mounts" because they are so soft and absorbing.  In some applications, as they get older, they can flex so much that under heavy forward thrust a dripless shaft seal will leak.  It happened to me during the sea trial of S/V Blue Pearl.  We actually cancelled the sea trial because of the surveyor's concerns over the leak.  Yanmar also advises that you chain or wire the mount around the middle so that there is no chance of the engine coming loose in the event that the rubber separates.  I bought a Yanmar mount prior to deciding on the PYI's.  It was nice to have it as a referance while doing the job.  It turns out that (unlike the Vetus mounts) the PYI mounts are designed to be drop in replacements for the Yanmar ones.  Same size and same stud and hole
 placement.

So now that I have touted the PYI mounts it does seem that I have a single Yanmar mount that I have no use for.  I think I paid ~$100 from torson marine.  It is still in the original packaging.  If someone could use it please let me know.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk

On Dec 12, 2013 7:45 PM, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:
Josh,
 Good job on the replacements.  I know it couldn’t have been easy with the access you have.  I used Yanmar mounts when I replaced mine.  It was very simple.   I have the PYI drive saver.  I had to cut the prop shaft to install it.  While I did the cutting on my own, I would recommend a machine shop do it because it involve recutting a keyway for the shaft collar.  I used a 4 ¼” grinder to cut the keyway.  Quick and effective, but far from ideal.  Time constraints make you do strange things sometimes…  No issues though.
 Jake
 Jake Brodersen
“Midnight Mistress”C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton Va 

  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:29 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
 Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions.  I could have used the basketball trick and will keep that in my bag of tricks.  Aside from manipulating the mounts into position (straps, jacks and lots of grunting) everything else went unremarkable.  I left the aluminum rails in place but removed the polyethylene blocks (spacers) from the front.  With the jack nuts all the way down the elignment came in almost perfect.  I have a PYI shaft seal so there seemed to be quite a bit of "wiggle room".  I did everything I could to get the shaft centered but it didn't seem to make much difference.  I do plan to install a PYI shaft coupling that allows up to 1mm of misalignment, though it don't think it is anywhere close to being outside of the prescribed 0.3mm.
I posted some pictures of the completed job, the original mounts, and some stock photos.  The original mounts are made by Vetus and are marketed to be very good at dampening noise.  Though they don't seem to be very good at resisting break down. :-/  And they are quite expensive.
https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydTdWdDVtZlNYamM/editLingering questions still exsist regarding torque specs and the design of the boat's foundation.
Thanks again,Josh MuckleyS/V Sea HawkI replaced my original Yanmar mounts a couple years ago (probably four or five).  I also use the Drive Saver from PYI.  Self-aligned and no issues to date.
 Jake
 Jake Brodersen
“Midnight Mistress”C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton Va 

  
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 5:55 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine mounts
 Hmmm. Interesting but I have to tell you I have had regular flexible m

Re: Stus-List : new boat, 1985 C&C 37

[Richard N. Bush]

Hello friends; I am happy to let you know that I have just received delivery of 
my fourth (yes 4th!), C&C; a 1985 37; centerboard model.  We had many issues 
getting it trucked in from Newburyport, MA; mostly weather related, but some 
delays due to the trucking company.

It is in pretty good shape, however, because we're in this deep freeze I wont 
be able to make a really good assessment of what needs to be done until it 
warms up a bit.   I will have a million questions then!   

A C&C is a novelty here on the Ohio River; the only ones anyone around here 
have seen have been those which we have brought in; first we brought a 1982 25 
from Austin Texas; then a 1985 29-2 from Cleveland; then a 1987 33-2 from 
Jacksonville, Fl, and now the 37;  the 29 went to Tennessee, but the 25 is 
still here; and of course the 33-2 is up for sale-I am what the realtors call a 
"motivated seller"!;

The local guys asked me why I stayed with the C&C; I thought about it; 
originally I bought the 25 without knowing anything about C&C's other than a 
general reputation for being quality boats; after I had the boat  a while, I 
was impressed by the workmanship on the 25 so when I wanted to move up, I 
looked at the 29s; then when we wanted something bigger, I went for the sailing 
ability of the 33-2; now, I figure I have enough research knowledge (mostly 
through the collective wisdom of this group) and hands-on experience that I 
couldn't go wrong in staying in the C&C line.  The truth is, I looked at other 
brands and simple kept coming back to the  C&C; as someone said in the recent 
thread about taxes; the C&Cs are the best bang for your buck and they sail 
better than anything else out there.
 
Many thanks,

Richard
1985 37; Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
502-584-7255










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