Stus-List bleeding fuel lines after filter change on M4-30

[David Knecht]

I have not had to change the filters on my Universal M4-30 yet, but was reading the procedure in the manual.  Basically there was no procedure.  They just say to change the filters and the system is self-bleeding.  I am presuming that the electric fuel pump circulates fuel continuously so this will remove air from the lines.  Is that right?  If so, it would be a major plus as bleeding the lines on my old Yanmar was a PITA.  If so, is there a recommended wait time after changing the filters and turning on the fuel pump before starting so one clears the lines and does not force air into the injectors?  Thanks- Dave
David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines after filter change on M4-30

[Wally Bryant]

David - My Universal M40B is self bleeding.  When I repowered, it 
started up on the first try. Amazing.


I have an external electric Walbro pump and valves to recirculate fuel 
through the Racor and back to the tank, bypassing the engine.  When 
changing fuel filters, I'll run that for a bit just to purge air from 
the Racor.   However, you don't need that. There's probably enough fuel 
in the engine lines to get the engine started, and the electric fuel 
pump will move enough fuel through to purge the lines before an air 
bubble hits the injector pump.


Wal



On 11/13/2013 4:01 PM, David Knecht wrote:

I am presuming that the
electric fuel pump circulates fuel continuously so this will remove air from the
lines.  Is that right?  If so, it would be a major plus as bleeding the lines on
my old Yanmar was a PITA.



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Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines after filter change on M4-30

[dwight veinot]

David

I remember bleeding the fuel line when I change the filters on my
M4-30.  Bleeding
was no big deal and  I believe it is described in the manual that I have,
which is packed on the boat under cover so I can't refer you to a page …be
sure to shut off the fuel from the tank when you change the filters. It has
been about 5 years since I changed those filters...I use less than 20
gallons a year and I filter everything that goes into the tank and keep it
full over winter but I know I followed the procedure in my manual.

Dwight Veinot
Alianna
C&C 35 MKII
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS


On Wed, Nov 13, 2013 at 12:01 PM, David Knecht wrote:

> I have not had to change the filters on my Universal M4-30 yet, but was
> reading the procedure in the manual.  Basically there was no procedure.
>  They just say to change the filters and the system is self-bleeding.  I am
> presuming that the electric fuel pump circulates fuel continuously so this
> will remove air from the lines.  Is that right?  If so, it would be a major
> plus as bleeding the lines on my old Yanmar was a PITA.  If so, is there a
> recommended wait time after changing the filters and turning on the fuel
> pump before starting so one clears the lines and does not force air into
> the injectors?  Thanks- Dave
>
>  David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Stus-List bleeding fuel lines

[Jimmy Kelly]

the newer universal diesels  25 , & 30  are self bleeding...very nice
feature especially if you run fuel tank emptyonly problem with these
engines is salt water pumps fail fairly quickly  original sherwood
pumps corrode...when replace go with oberdorfer about 300 dollars they
stand up...
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Stus-List Rudder bearing

[Alex Giannelia]

burgees, so he must be a real sailor.  He should invest in bow and
stern thrusters for his sailboat.



--

Message: 13
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 23:00:15 -0400
From: Rich Knowles 
To: "w...@wbryant.com" ,"cnc-list@cnc-list.com"

Subject: Re: Stus-List And the Baja Haha hits town...
Message-ID: <6880b627-bbf3-47ae-b2e7-69c0bcc8d...@sailpower.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

As long as you're ok

Rich

> On Nov 12, 2013, at 20:58, Wally Bryant  wrote:
>
> And the Baja Haha hits town. Given the northerly breezes over the last two 
> days, I thought that anyone with an ounce of sense would relax and stay put 
> for a little bit.  But today a Tayana 54 with all the accoutrements blasted 
> into one of the widest fairways imaginable too fast and managed to hit two 
> other boats on an entirely different dock before being manhandled into place. 
>  The skipper was flying three Baja Haha burgees, so he must be a real sailor. 
>  He should invest in bow and stern thrusters for his sailboat.
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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--

Message: 14
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 11:01:51 -0500
From: David Knecht 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines after filter change on M4-30
Message-ID: <6af3849f-0a00-40e7-8687-4deedc5c0...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I have not had to change the filters on my Universal M4-30 yet, but was reading 
the procedure in the manual.  Basically there was no procedure.  They just say 
to change the filters and the system is self-bleeding.  I am presuming that the 
electric fuel pump circulates fuel continuously so this will remove air from 
the lines.  Is that right?  If so, it would be a major plus as bleeding the 
lines on my old Yanmar was a PITA.  If so, is there a recommended wait time 
after changing the filters and turning on the fuel pump before starting so one 
clears the lines and does not force air into the injectors?  Thanks- Dave

David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 16:41:57 +
From: Wally Bryant 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines after filter change on
M4-30
Message-ID: <5283abd5.6020...@wbryant.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

David - My Universal M40B is self bleeding.  When I repowered, it
started up on the first try. Amazing.

I have an external electric Walbro pump and valves to recirculate fuel
through the Racor and back to the tank, bypassing the engine.  When
changing fuel filters, I'll run that for a bit just to purge air from
the Racor.   However, you don't need that. There's probably enough fuel
in the engine lines to get the engine started, and the electric fuel
pump will move enough fuel through to purge the lines before an air
bubble hits the injector pump.

Wal



On 11/13/2013 4:01 PM, David Knecht wrote:
> I am presuming that the
> electric fuel pump circulates fuel continuously so this will remove air from 
> the
> lines.  Is that right?  If so, it would be a major plus as bleeding the lines 
> on
> my old Yanmar was a PITA.




--

Message: 16
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 12:49:23 -0400
From: dwight veinot 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines after filter change on
M4-30
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

David

I remember bleeding the fuel line when I change the filters on my
M4-30.  Bleeding
was no big deal and  I believe it is described in the manual that I have,
which is packed on the boat under cover so I can't refer you to a page ?be
sure to shut off the fuel from the tank when you change the filters. It has
been about 5 years since I changed those filters...I use less than 20
gallons a year and I filter everything that goes into the tank and keep it
full over winter but I know I followed the procedure in my manual.

Dwight Veinot
Alianna
C&C 35 MKII
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS


On Wed, Nov 13, 2013 at 12:01 PM, David Knecht wrote:

> I have not had to change the filters on my Universal M4-30 yet, but was
> reading the procedure in the manual.  Basically there was no procedure.
>  They just say to change the filters and the system is self-bleeding.  I am
> presuming that the electric fuel pump circulates fuel continuously so this
> will remove air from the lines.  Is that right?  If so, it would be a major
> plus as bleeding the lines on my old Yanmar was a PITA.  If so, is there a
> recommended wait time after changing the filters and turning on the fuel
> pump before starting so one clears the lines and does not force air into
> the injectors?  Thanks- Dave
>
>  David Knecht
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 94, Issue 41


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Re: Stus-List Winter Sailing

[OldSteveH]

Outstanding advice.

Thanks to all for great tips.


Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON





--

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2013 12:58:34 -0500
From: Alex Giannelia 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List  Winter sailing
Message-ID:

<1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010c7fdd9...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

After only one passage from Quebec to Lisbon under my belt, I can only
repeat what my almost world girdling buddy Danno said to bring along;

A sense of humour.  The rest is in the details.

Cheers, have a great trip.

Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 to be renamed after re-launch TORONTO, Ontario

ag@@airsensing.com





--



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Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

[Dennis C.]

Alex,

I had upper rudder bearing remade.  On Touche' it's screwed to cockpit bulkhead 
at top of rudder post.  Sent you a pic.


Dennis



>
> From: Alex Giannelia 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 4:08 PM
>Subject: Stus-List Rudder bearing
> 
>
>
>Dennis,
>
>I just went through the exercise of replacing the washers and noticed that 
>there wasn't more than 1/4" room for a washer between the nut and cockpit 
>sole, so where would you get the room to fit 1/2" under there?
>
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Stus-List Dehumidifier?

[Tom Buscaglia]

Hey listers...

We keep Alera in the water all year, though we do cover her for a few 
months in the dead season.  We have been using oil radiator type 
heaters to stave off excessive humidity by just keeping the ambient 
temperature up.


We are considering getting some sort of dehumidifier.  The little 
cans that are just heaters with a fan don't really seems like a great 
option.   Others seem either big and/or expensive.  Also, those that 
extract water need to be emptied or drain into a sink or the bilge.


So, I ask...What have you guys been using to control moisture in the 
cold months?


thx

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List Dehumidifier?

[Jake Brodersen]

Tom,

 

I live in the fairly moderate temps of Virginia.  I use a dehumidifier
during the summer, but switch it out for an oil filled heater during the
winter.  The humidity during the winter tends to be rather low.  With a heat
source, I doubt you will have problems.  Monitor the humidity level with a
handheld gauge, if you are concerned.  Anything over 50% might be cause
enough to install a dehumidified, which will create some heat of its own.
Ours drains into the sink over the summer.  That way I don't have to empty
the bucket every day.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 7:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Dehumidifier?

 

Hey listers...

We keep Alera in the water all year, though we do cover her for a few months
in the dead season.  We have been using oil radiator type heaters to stave
off excessive humidity by just keeping the ambient temperature up.  

We are considering getting some sort of dehumidifier.  The little cans that
are just heaters with a fan don't really seems like a great option.   Others
seem either big and/or expensive.  Also, those that extract water need to be
emptied or drain into a sink or the bilge.  

So, I ask...What have you guys been using to control moisture in the cold
months?

thx

Tom B



Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com  


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Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines

[Wally Bryant]

Jimmy Kelly wrote:

original sherwood
pumps corrode...when replace go with oberdorfer about 300 dollars they
stand up...


Yeah, roger that.  I'm on my second one, and keep a spare on board. 
Naturally, Westerbeke (Universal) seems to have used some clout and 
convinced Sherwood to discontinue my pump.  (It was Model G908.)  Of 
course, you can now only get it through Westerbeke, at twice the price, 
and it's the exact same pump.  At least they could have painted it red!


In my case the problem was the ceramic seal.  I should have left it 
alone, but someone told me that it's a common problem and should be 
inspected annually.  So just be be safe, I pulled the pump and inspected 
it, and F'ed it up.  After some thinking, I realized that the guy was 
from Canada and had pulled his boat annually.  Even in Mexico he was 
pulling his boat for the summer and heading north. Thus his pump dried 
out annually.  I've never lived in a cold climate and have always sailed 
year 'round, and thus the engine gets used and the pump and seals get 
worked.  So I'm going to leave it alone and carry a spare.  Trust me, 
though, it would be a total b*** to replace in a seaway.


I've heard that oberdorfer makes good affordable replacement pumps, but 
couldn't figure out which one would match the G908, and didn't want to 
gamble.  It's hard enough getting parts sent down here, and sending them 
back would be an exercise in frustration.


Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue


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Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines

[Dennis C.]

Wal,

Check Depco pumps for your pump.  Great to work with.

Dennis C.




>
> From: Wally Bryant 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 7:58 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines
> 
>
>Jimmy Kelly wrote:
>> original sherwood
>> pumps corrode...when replace go with oberdorfer about 300 dollars they
>> stand up...
>
>Yeah, roger that.  I'm on my second one, and keep a spare on board. 
>Naturally, Westerbeke (Universal) seems to have used some clout and 
>convinced Sherwood to discontinue my pump.  (It was Model G908.)  Of 
>course, you can now only get it through Westerbeke, at twice the price, 
>and it's the exact same pump.  At least they could have painted it red!
>
>In my case the problem was the ceramic seal.  I should have left it 
>alone, but someone told me that it's a common problem and should be 
>inspected annually.  So just be be safe, I pulled the pump and inspected 
>it, and F'ed it up.  After some thinking, I realized that the guy was 
>from Canada and had pulled his boat annually.  Even in Mexico he was 
>pulling his boat for the summer and heading north. Thus his pump dried 
>out annually.  I've never lived in a cold climate and have always sailed 
>year 'round, and thus the engine gets used and the pump and seals get 
>worked.  So I'm going to leave it alone and carry a spare.  Trust me, 
>though, it would be a total b*** to replace in a seaway.
>
>I've heard that oberdorfer makes good affordable replacement pumps, but 
>couldn't figure out which one would match the G908, and didn't want to 
>gamble.  It's hard enough getting parts sent down here, and sending them 
>back would be an exercise in frustration.
>
>Wal
>
>-- 
>s/v Stella Blue
>
>
>
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Dehumidifier?

[Dennis C.]

I use 2 West Marine (Caframo) turbo heaters in conjuction with a day/night 
solar vent.  No problems at all in Louisiana winters.  

I used a standard dehumidifier for a couple years.  Got tired of taking the 
heavy thing on/off the boat when I went sailing.  The turbo fans work as well 
if not better.

Dennis C.




>
> From: Tom Buscaglia 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 7:40 PM
>Subject: Stus-List Dehumidifier?
> 
>
>
>Hey listers...
>
>We keep Alera in the water all year, though we do cover her for a few
months in the dead season.  We have been using oil radiator type
heaters to stave off excessive humidity by just keeping the ambient
temperature up.  
>
>We are considering getting some sort of dehumidifier.  The little
cans that are just heaters with a fan don't really seems like a great
option.   Others seem either big and/or expensive.  Also,
those that extract water need to be emptied or drain into a sink or the
bilge.  
>
>So, I ask...What have you guys been using to control moisture in the cold
months?
>
>thx
>
>Tom B
>
>Tom Buscaglia
>SV Alera
>C&C 37+/40
>Vashon Island WA
>(206) 463-9200
>www.sv-alera.com
>
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>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Dehumidifier?

[Hoyt, Mike]

Check out eva dry.  You can google them.  Binnacle caries two models.  Not sure 
how good but i bought the eva dry 1100 just because it is light and lugging a 
household model up a ladder is heavy and awkward

Mike


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Jake Brodersen
Sent: Wed 13/11/2013 20:55
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dehumidifier?
 
Tom,

 

I live in the fairly moderate temps of Virginia.  I use a dehumidifier
during the summer, but switch it out for an oil filled heater during the
winter.  The humidity during the winter tends to be rather low.  With a heat
source, I doubt you will have problems.  Monitor the humidity level with a
handheld gauge, if you are concerned.  Anything over 50% might be cause
enough to install a dehumidified, which will create some heat of its own.
Ours drains into the sink over the summer.  That way I don't have to empty
the bucket every day.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 7:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Dehumidifier?

 

Hey listers...

We keep Alera in the water all year, though we do cover her for a few months
in the dead season.  We have been using oil radiator type heaters to stave
off excessive humidity by just keeping the ambient temperature up.  

We are considering getting some sort of dehumidifier.  The little cans that
are just heaters with a fan don't really seems like a great option.   Others
seem either big and/or expensive.  Also, those that extract water need to be
emptied or drain into a sink or the bilge.  

So, I ask...What have you guys been using to control moisture in the cold
months?

thx

Tom B



Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com  



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Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines

[Rick Brass]

I didn't have any problems with the G908 pump on my Universal M35B engine in
the 10 years between installation and an engine failure due to the PO's
cheapness. My boat is in the water year round, as yours is.

When I replaced the failed engine with a new M35B in 2011, I kept the old
pump as a spare. Sprayed it with oil, wrapped in an oily cotton cloth,
sealed in a plastic bag, and boxed it up. It's somewhere among the other
engine spares on the boat.

Have you noticed, Wal, that the things for which you have a spare never seem
to fail. 

Beta Marine uses the same pump, so you can get one that is painted red. (My
Universal engine is painted silver gray)

There is also a pump rebuild kit available for the G908 pump, so you might
not need to keep a pump assembly as a spare.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally
Bryant
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 7:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines

Jimmy Kelly wrote:
> original sherwood
> pumps corrode...when replace go with oberdorfer about 300 dollars they 
> stand up...

Yeah, roger that.  I'm on my second one, and keep a spare on board. 
Naturally, Westerbeke (Universal) seems to have used some clout and
convinced Sherwood to discontinue my pump.  (It was Model G908.)  Of course,
you can now only get it through Westerbeke, at twice the price, and it's the
exact same pump.  At least they could have painted it red!




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Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

[Della Barba, Joe]

I did the same. It is actually quite vital, when it gets loose the rudder tube 
is stressed with side to side motions.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 6:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing

Alex,

I had upper rudder bearing remade.  On Touche' it's screwed to cockpit bulkhead 
at top of rudder post.  Sent you a pic.

Dennis


From: Alex Giannelia mailto:a...@airsensing.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 4:08 PM
Subject: Stus-List Rudder bearing


Dennis,

I just went through the exercise of replacing the washers and noticed that 
there wasn't more than 1/4" room for a washer between the nut and cockpit sole, 
so where would you get the room to fit 1/2" under there?
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Re: Stus-List bleeding fuel lines

[Rich Knowles]

We're merely keeping our health benefits active. Nothing to do with pumps, 
other than hearts.

Rich

On Nov 13, 2013, at 8:58 PM, Wally Bryant  wrote:

, I realized that the guy was from Canada and had pulled his boat annually.  
Even in Mexico he was pulling his boat for the summer and heading north.


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