Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[Dr. Mark Bodnar]

  
  

This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS
boats.  The 2 avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley space
and the double rear berth.

Anyone want to check that one out for me???

Mark

  
  
  
  

  

  
  
Click
on image to enlarge 
  

  
  30' 
CS 30
  
  
Year: 1988
Current Price: US$ 22,500 
Located In Hingham, MA
Hull Material: Fiberglass
Engine/Fuel Type: Single diesel
YW# 3144-2638685
  
  http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/CS-30-2638685/Hingham/MA/United-States#.UhyjrBusiSo
  -- 

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  


  

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Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery

[David Knecht]

 I used a pair of jumper cables and hooked up the dead battery in parallel with an old but servicable battery I had at home and hooked up the charger to it.  After an hour I had about 7 volts.  Now the charger would recognize the dead AGM and is charging it.  It was up to 10V overnight, so I am hoping it will finish the job.  If so, then I am back to figuring out what drained it or if there is an alternator problem.   I presume if I measure the voltage at each battery while the engine is running it will be  the charging voltage?  If I get 14.4 volts or so at both batteries, then presumably my alternator is OK?   Then I would be back to the propane alarm issue as the most likely culprit.  Does that plan sound reasonable?  Thanks- Dave  On Aug 26, 2013, at 11:08 PM, Russ & Melody  wrote:

Hi David,
1. - yes, a new battery can fail and a two month old battery is still on
warranty. Give it back for a load test / replacement.
2. - The AGM will charge from an alternator if discharged but may not
charge from a smart regulator as the have a dumb battery validation
check. If you want to use a smart charge on a really flat battery then
you need to jump start the process with a dumb charger or another
battery.
 - you should see life in the battery after a half hour on the
alternator but a few hours for a good bulk charge
You may have a fried diode in the alternator which can deplete a battery
when the engine is not running (and not isolated from the battery) and
give insufficient charge voltage.
Cheers,
Russ
Sweet
35 mk-1

At 07:04 AM 26/08/2013, you wrote:
I am beginning to feel that I
have bad karma with my new boat.  First the good news:  based
on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue seems
definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started
smoothly every time.  The only strange thing is that all the
directions I have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug
button while pushing the start button.  However, on mine, the engine
will not turn over unless I release the glow plug button.  Also, the
GPS restarts each time I start the engine, which may mean there is still
some electrical issue, but neither is a serious problem at this
point.  
Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and
prop as best I could.  The shaft and prop were completely crusted
with barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job. 
I may try Velox next spring based on the advice of a local old
timer.
So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is
completely dead.  This is the battery that is wired for the
auto-bilge pump switch and propane fume alarm (that is all I know
of).  The batteries are 2 month old Power-tech AGM group 27's. 
I could not get much of any charge after a day of running the engine for
a few hours totals.
Questions: 
1.  do new batteries fail at some rate?
2.  Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully
discharged?  If so, roughly how long would it take?  I brought
it home and tried to use my smart charger and that is not charging it at
all (the charging light does not come on).
Perhaps related- I twice was on the boat briefly during the week and
found the Xintex propane fume alarm going.  Both times I checked the
propane system and the tank shutoff was closed and all switches were off.
So I don't believe there were really propane fumes in the cabin.  So
could the sensor have failed?  Could the alarm going for many many
hours drain the battery (I don't think the bilge pump is doing
it).

David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

 

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___This List is provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com
David Knecht, Ph.D.    Professor and Head of Microscopy FacilityDepartment of Molecular and Cell BiologyU-312591 N. Eagleville Rd.University of ConnecticutStorrs, CT 06269860-486-2200860-486-4331 (fax)


David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT

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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[djhaug...@juno.com]

I don't know about CS boats... She sure looks nice though.  Hingham is a little 
far for me.  2.5 - 3 hours round trip

Please note: message attached

From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 10:21:35 -0300


  
  

This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS
boats.  The 2 avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley space
and the double rear berth.

Anyone want to check that one out for me???

Mark

  
  
  
  

  

  
  
Click
on image to enlarge 
  

  
  30' 
CS 30
  
  
Year: 1988
Current Price: US$ 22,500 
Located In Hingham, MA
Hull Material: Fiberglass
Engine/Fuel Type: Single diesel
YW# 3144-2638685
  
  http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/CS-30-2638685/Hingham/MA/United-States#.UhyjrBusiSo
  -- 

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  


  

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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[Hoyt, Mike]

Mark
 
Check out the local ones first.  There is one in Tatamagouche for sale
as well I believe located at Sunrise Shore Marina.
 
With the one in Hingham do a little research to determine delivery and
other costs involved with buying a boat located at a distance.  Then
take the total price and use that as a basis of an on one of the local
boats.  You will find that buying local is a whole lot less complicated
 
Be sure to factor in the cost of a trip to MA to inspect the boat as
well in your numbers
 
Mike
 




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Mark Bodnar
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 10:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?



This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS boats.
The 2 avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley space and
the double rear berth.

Anyone want to check that one out for me???

Mark




 
 
Click on image to enlarge   
30'  

CS 30


*   Year: 1988 
*   Current Price: US$ 22,500  
*   Located In Hingham, MA 
*   Hull Material: Fiberglass 
*   Engine/Fuel Type: Single diesel 
*   YW# 3144-2638685 

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/CS-30-2638685/Hingham/MA/United-Sta
tes#.UhyjrBusiSo 
-- 

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[Dennis C.]

Mark,Installed a roller furler on a CS "30 something" couple months ago.  Peeked inside.  Didn't take detailed look at it but do recall having overall positive impression of it.Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LAFrom: "djhaug...@juno.com"  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 8:36 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?   
  


  
  

This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS
boats.  The 2 avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley space
and the double rear berth.

Anyone want to check that one out for me???

Mark

  
  
  
  

  

  
  
Click
on image to enlarge 
  

  
  30' 
CS 30
  
  
Year: 1988
Current Price: US$ 22,500 
Located In Hingham, MA
Hull Material: Fiberglass
Engine/Fuel Type: Single diesel
YW# 3144-2638685
  
  http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/CS-30-2638685/Hingham/MA/United-States#.UhyjrBusiSo
  -- 

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  


  

I don't know about CS boats... She sure looks nice though.  Hingham is a little far for me.  2.5 - 3 hours round tripPlease note: message attachedFrom: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 10:21:35 -0300___This List is provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com  ___
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery

[Bill Bina]

Even if you get the voltage to indicate a fully charged battery, your 
battery's capacity and lifespan is almost guaranteed to be reduced by 
going flat.  You need to have the battery load tested to see if it still 
delivers close to the rated capacity. You can buy a load tester pretty 
cheaply, and test it yourself. If you have a size 27 or 31 battery, the 
100 amp load tester from Harbor Freight is all you need.


http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=battery+load+tester

Bill BIna

On 8/27/2013 9:22 AM, David Knecht wrote:
 I used a pair of jumper cables and hooked up the dead battery in 
parallel with an old but servicable battery I had at home and hooked 
up the charger to it.  After an hour I had about 7 volts.  Now the 
charger would recognize the dead AGM and is charging it.  It was up to 
10V overnight, so I am hoping it will finish the job.  If so, then I 
am back to figuring out what drained it or if there is an alternator 
problem.   I presume if I measure the voltage at each battery while 
the engine is running it will be  the charging voltage?  If I get 14.4 
volts or so at both batteries, then presumably my alternator is OK?   
Then I would be back to the propane alarm issue as the most likely 
culprit.  Does that plan sound reasonable?  Thanks- Dave


On Aug 26, 2013, at 11:08 PM, Russ & Melody > wrote:



Hi David,


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Re: Stus-List recaulking toerails

[OldSteveH]

Brent I am considering re-bedding my toe rails, but keep putting it off
because it's a daunting task.
Is there anything you did or would do again which made the job easier?
What solvent did you use to remove the old butyl rubber?
What complications did you encounter (eg screws seized or stripped)
What manpower did you have - eg one inside, one outside or is there a way to
do it solo?

Thanks

Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON




--

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 17:38:24 -0500
From: Brent Driedger 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List recaulking toerails
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Caulking is an ok and very temporary repair but only if you want to do the
job every 5 months. I removed Wild Rover's toe rails and re-bed with 1/8
butyl tape 5 years ago and have had no problems. I would use 1/16 if I did
it again but at least I know I can do it again as I did not use and marine
adhesive. 
The black toe rail expands and contracts a lot and at a different ratio than
the fibreglass so I figured the highly flexible butyl would be the best
choice.  I'm glad I did it. As the years go on I know I'll need to torque
the bolts a bit and eventually re-do but that's boat ownership. Maintenance
never stops. 

Brent D
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg
C&C 27-5

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-08-26, at 2:25 PM, Ed Dooley  wrote:

> I?m not an expert in this at all, but when I first thought of doing it on
my 24?, and using
> something out of a tube, I was told by many to use marine grade butyl
tape, nothing else.
> Ed
> 
> 
> 
> From: 
> 
> I need to recaulk the toerails on my 32' C&C.  My thought is to remove the
bolts, clean out all the old material between the underside of the deck and
the rubrail and between the bottom of the toerail and the top of the deck.
I would use Skiaflex to reseal these areas and Buytul tape for the bolt
holes.  Any thoughts, experiences?
> Jesse A. Rieber
> Witch of the Westmoreland
> 32' C&C, Cotuit, Cape Cod, MA
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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[Bill Bina]

A buddy of mine had one. Very well built, and fast. The only thing I 
really didn't like was the Volvo engine, which was always hard to start 
in cooler weather, and parts were VERY overpriced.


Bill Bina

On 8/27/2013 9:21 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:


This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS 
boats.  The 2 avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley space and 
the double rear berth.


Anyone want to check that one out for me???

Mark 


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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[Tim Sippel]

Off the Top of my head:

CS 30 was introduced early 80's , a tony Castro design , they pre-sold
very well at the Toronto boat show, I think CS built all their boats out
of the Brampton factory.

Later model CS30's had cabin top ports instead of the fixed windows this
photo has. 

There are at least 10 of these boats at our club , all holding up well .
The Volvo engine doesn't seem as robust as the yanmar , and some had a
cooling system integrated into the transmission (no details on this ,
other than a winter neighbor at the yard had a frozen /crack issue with
his boat) 

The CS 30 seems to have retained its re-sale value fairly well , CS's
were rumored to have osmosis problems , but that may have been over
stated , as I don't see a lot of bottom work being done at our club.

It's a good looking boat , I often glance back at them during races.

 

 

 

Tim Sippel 
33mkii

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Bina
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 10:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

 

A buddy of mine had one. Very well built, and fast. The only thing I
really didn't like was the Volvo engine, which was always hard to start
in cooler weather, and parts were VERY overpriced. 

Bill Bina

On 8/27/2013 9:21 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:


This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS
boats.  The 2 avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley
space and the double rear berth.

Anyone want to check that one out for me???

Mark 

 


This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to 
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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[Stevan Plavsa]

"It’s a good looking boat , I often glance back at them during races."

Nice :)

We have loads of them up here in Toronto, they are well regarded boats.
They hold their resale better than the C&Cs in my experience. When I was in
the market I would have considered a CS 30 but all the ones around here
were around the 40k mark. CS does nice interiors (IMO).
C&Cs are cooler.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 10:13 AM, Tim Sippel wrote:

> Off the Top of my head:
>
> CS 30 was introduced early 80’s , a tony Castro design , they pre-sold
> very well at the Toronto boat show, I think CS built all their boats out of
> the Brampton factory.
>
> Later model CS30’s had cabin top ports instead of the fixed windows this
> photo has. 
>
> There are at least 10 of these boats at our club , all holding up well .
> The Volvo engine doesn’t seem as robust as the yanmar , and some had a
> cooling system integrated into the transmission (no details on this , other
> than a winter neighbor at the yard had a frozen /crack issue with his boat)
> 
>
> The CS 30 seems to have retained its re-sale value fairly well , CS’s were
> rumored to have osmosis problems , but that may have been over stated , as
> I don’t see a lot of bottom work being done at our club.
>
> It’s a good looking boat , I often glance back at them during races.
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> Tim Sippel
> 33mkii
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Bina
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 27, 2013 10:04 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?
>
> ** **
>
> A buddy of mine had one. Very well built, and fast. The only thing I
> really didn't like was the Volvo engine, which was always hard to start in
> cooler weather, and parts were VERY overpriced.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 8/27/2013 9:21 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:
>
>
> This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
> I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS boats.
> The 2 avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
> The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley space and the
> double rear berth.
>
> Anyone want to check that one out for me???
>
> Mark 
>
> ** **
>
>
> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be
> subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived.
> If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review,
> dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content
> is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored
> as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect
> our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted
> any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please
> notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any
> computer or any storage medium without printing a copy.
>
> Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et
> peut faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit
> connexe n’est exclu. Si vous n’êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son
> représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel
> en tout ou en partie, est strictement interdite et peut être illégale. Tous
> les messages peuvent être surveillés, selon les lois et règlements
> applicables et les politiques de protection de notre entreprise. Les
> courriels ne sont pas sécurisés et vous êtes réputés avoir accepté tous les
> risques qui y sont liés si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce
> moyen. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, veuillez nous en aviser
> immédiatement et supprimer ce courriel (ainsi que toutes ses pièces
> jointes) de tout ordinateur ou support de données sans en imprimer une
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[Knowles Rich]

I recall beating CS30's often with my 82 C&C 27. They are also a moderately 
tender boat compared to the C&C equivalent boats. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-27, at 11:56, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

"It’s a good looking boat , I often glance back at them during races."

Nice :)

We have loads of them up here in Toronto, they are well regarded boats. They 
hold their resale better than the C&Cs in my experience. When I was in the 
market I would have considered a CS 30 but all the ones around here were around 
the 40k mark. CS does nice interiors (IMO). 
C&Cs are cooler.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 10:13 AM, Tim Sippel  wrote:
> Off the Top of my head:
> 
> CS 30 was introduced early 80’s , a tony Castro design , they pre-sold very 
> well at the Toronto boat show, I think CS built all their boats out of the 
> Brampton factory.
> 
> Later model CS30’s had cabin top ports instead of the fixed windows this 
> photo has.
> 
> There are at least 10 of these boats at our club , all holding up well . The 
> Volvo engine doesn’t seem as robust as the yanmar , and some had a cooling 
> system integrated into the transmission (no details on this , other than a 
> winter neighbor at the yard had a frozen /crack issue with his boat)
> 
> The CS 30 seems to have retained its re-sale value fairly well , CS’s were 
> rumored to have osmosis problems , but that may have been over stated , as I 
> don’t see a lot of bottom work being done at our club.
> 
> It’s a good looking boat , I often glance back at them during races.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Tim Sippel 
> 33mkii
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
> Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 10:04 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?
>  
> 
> A buddy of mine had one. Very well built, and fast. The only thing I really 
> didn't like was the Volvo engine, which was always hard to start in cooler 
> weather, and parts were VERY overpriced. 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> On 8/27/2013 9:21 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:
> 
> This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
> I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS boats.  The 2 
> avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
> The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley space and the 
> double rear berth.
> 
> Anyone want to check that one out for me???
> 
> Mark
> 
>  
> 
> 
> This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject 
> to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are 
> not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, 
> distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly 
> prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by 
> applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect our business. 
> E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you 
> communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please notify us 
> immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any computer or 
> any storage medium without printing a copy.
> 
> Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et 
> peut faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit 
> connexe n’est exclu. Si vous n’êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son 
> représentant, toute étude, diffusion, transmission ou copie de ce courriel en 
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> si vous choisissez de communiquer avec nous par ce moyen. Si vous avez reçu 
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Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover

[Raymond Macklin]

It is getting to be that time of the year again.  I bought my 1985 C&C 33
last year and it was stored inside.  This year it is going outside.  I am
trying to locate an winter cover or a company that makes covers for the 33
C&C.  If anyone can point me in the right direction, it would be greatly
appreciated.

Ray
LakeHouse
Libertyville, IL
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Re: Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover

[Indigo]

Love my Canvas Store (Huntington NY) boom-tent cover.  I have had mine 7 or
8 years. After sales service is superb - last year, they replaced zippers,
grommets etc completely free of charge (they pay shipping both ways)  They
really stand by their lifetime guarantee.  If I make up my tie-lines at home
(I use cotton sash cord - which usually last a couple of winters, I can have
the whole boat covered in 45 minutes.  One trick I learned was to have a
piece of 2 x 4 timber cut to the right length (trial and error) to support
the end of the boom at exactly the right height so the cover comes to the
toe-rail evenly.

 

No affiliation to Canvas Store - just a very happy customer

 

Jonathan

Indigo- 35III - Southport

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Raymond
Macklin
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 11:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover

 

It is getting to be that time of the year again.  I bought my 1985 C&C 33
last year and it was stored inside.  This year it is going outside.  I am
trying to locate an winter cover or a company that makes covers for the 33
C&C.  If anyone can point me in the right direction, it would be greatly
appreciated.

Ray

LakeHouse

Libertyville, IL

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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[Bill Bina]

CS 30 PHRF 150

C&C 27 PHRF around 200

http://www.phrfne.org/page/567

Bill Bina

On 8/27/2013 11:00 AM, Knowles Rich wrote:
I recall beating CS30's often with my 82 C&C 27. They are also a 
moderately tender boat compared to the C&C equivalent boats.


Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax


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Re: Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover

[Stevan Plavsa]

I seem to remember someone on this list offering a winter cover for a 33 if
I'm not mistaken, they had sold their boat and were offering it for sale.
Search the archives .. nevermind, here you go (his email address at the
top), it's for a mark one but it might work:

" A. F. Cano a...@shibaya.lonestar.org via cnc-list.com
Aug 1

to cnc-list
Hello everyone:

Now that Sandy took my 75 33-1, there's no need to keep the winter cover.
It was only used for 4 winters, and then I installed a bimini with solar
panels and it's been stored ever since.

It's a heavy canvas cover in two parts that zippered together at the mast
cover the whole boat.  It has a sturdy frame of aluminum tubing: a bow to
stern backbone and many ribs.  All the parts and installation instructions
are included.  Made by Quinte Canvas Manufacturing, of Kingston, Ontario.

It's in central New Jersey.  Best if it's picked up as the 2 canvas
bundles are quite heavy and the aluminum tubes (the longest ones), while
not heavy, are curved and about 7' long.

It cost almost $2k back in december 2000 (I have the original receipt)
and I figure $1k + shipping is fair.

Any interested out there?
"


On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 11:29 AM, Indigo  wrote:

>  Love my Canvas Store (Huntington NY) boom-tent cover.  I have had mine 7
> or 8 years. After sales service is superb – last year, they replaced
> zippers, grommets etc completely free of charge (they pay shipping both
> ways)  They really stand by their lifetime guarantee.  If I make up my
> tie-lines at home (I use cotton sash cord – which usually last a couple of
> winters, I can have the whole boat covered in 45 minutes.  One trick I
> learned was to have a piece of 2 x 4 timber cut to the right length (trial
> and error) to support the end of the boom at exactly the right height so
> the cover comes to the toe-rail evenly.
>
>
>
> No affiliation to Canvas Store – just a very happy customer
>
>
>
> Jonathan
>
> Indigo- 35III - Southport
>
>
>  --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Raymond
> Macklin
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 27, 2013 11:15 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover
>
>
>
> It is getting to be that time of the year again.  I bought my 1985 C&C 33
> last year and it was stored inside.  This year it is going outside.  I am
> trying to locate an winter cover or a company that makes covers for the 33
> C&C.  If anyone can point me in the right direction, it would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Ray
>
> LakeHouse
>
> Libertyville, IL
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover

[Ken Heaton]

The Top Shop folks do good work.  http://www.topshop.on.ca/index.html

I've had one of their covers on my boat for 3 winters now.  We live in a
windy location with plenty of heavy wet slow in the winter and no issues so
far.  They made it form a pattern they had, I didn't have to provide any
measurements.  The cover and frame fit perfectly when it arrived.  They
list the C&C 33 and 33 Mk.II as boats they have patterns for.

This link takes you to a few photos of the frame and cover on our boat:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111836181322422930048/SalazarWinterCover

Ken H.


On 27 August 2013 12:14, Raymond Macklin  wrote:

> It is getting to be that time of the year again.  I bought my 1985 C&C 33
> last year and it was stored inside.  This year it is going outside.  I am
> trying to locate an winter cover or a company that makes covers for the 33
> C&C.  If anyone can point me in the right direction, it would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Ray
> LakeHouse
> Libertyville, IL
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[Steve Thomas]

   A friend of mine has a CS30, and I sail on it quite a lot. They have an 
excellent interior layout, and the best use of interior
space that I have seen on a 30 foot sailboat. They were often characterised as 
"marina beaters" because of their good cruising
accommodations and relatively short overall length. The older design CS33 is 
very similar, and you gain little by paying a marina
for the extra 3 feet.
   The boat sails well enough. My only real complaint as compared to my C&C27 
MKIII is that you don't get at lot of warning when
the rudder is reaching its limit, and it has an annoying tendency to round up 
when overpowered in a gust. Rudder could have been
bigger in my opinion. My friend's boat has a tall rig with double spreaders and 
I think that some were built shorter. There were
shoal draft versions available as well. All that I have seen come with factory 
self tailers, lines led aft to clutches, and an
Isomat boom. If you are looking for a well built pocket cruiser, these boats 
are hard to beat. Price has been a bit high for me,
they were 40 - 50k for a long time around here, or I would probably own one 
now. Don't forget that the Great Lakes boats are
usually in better condition than the ones down south in salt water.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKII
Port Stanley, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 9:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?



This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS boats.  The 2 
avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley space and the 
double rear berth.

Anyone want to check that one out for me???

Mark





  Click on image to enlarge

30'  CS 30
  a.. Year: 1988
  b.. Current Price: US$ 22,500
  c.. Located In Hingham, MA
  d.. Hull Material: Fiberglass
  e.. Engine/Fuel Type: Single diesel
  f.. YW# 3144-2638685
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/CS-30-2638685/Hingham/MA/United-States#.UhyjrBusiSo
--

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

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Re: Stus-List recaulking toerails

[Bill Coleman]

I can't imagine this would need to be done.
Have you seen where they are leaking?
If they are coming in at the joint, the water would have to come slightly
uphill.
More likely they are leaking around the bolts, just find the leakers, pull
them out, goop the hole good with your fingers and do the threads etc up
with (warm) butyl, put them back in and squeeze out the butyl. I would be
surprised if this doesn't work, worked for me. 
Usually is around bolts that hold stanchions because of all the yanking they
get.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 10:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List recaulking toerails

Brent I am considering re-bedding my toe rails, but keep putting it off
because it's a daunting task.
Is there anything you did or would do again which made the job easier?
What solvent did you use to remove the old butyl rubber?
What complications did you encounter (eg screws seized or stripped)
What manpower did you have - eg one inside, one outside or is there a way to
do it solo?

Thanks

Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON




--

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 17:38:24 -0500
From: Brent Driedger 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List recaulking toerails
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Caulking is an ok and very temporary repair but only if you want to do the
job every 5 months. I removed Wild Rover's toe rails and re-bed with 1/8
butyl tape 5 years ago and have had no problems. I would use 1/16 if I did
it again but at least I know I can do it again as I did not use and marine
adhesive. 
The black toe rail expands and contracts a lot and at a different ratio than
the fibreglass so I figured the highly flexible butyl would be the best
choice.  I'm glad I did it. As the years go on I know I'll need to torque
the bolts a bit and eventually re-do but that's boat ownership. Maintenance
never stops. 

Brent D
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg
C&C 27-5

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-08-26, at 2:25 PM, Ed Dooley  wrote:

> I?m not an expert in this at all, but when I first thought of doing it on
my 24?, and using
> something out of a tube, I was told by many to use marine grade butyl
tape, nothing else.
> Ed
> 
> 
> 
> From: 
> 
> I need to recaulk the toerails on my 32' C&C.  My thought is to remove the
bolts, clean out all the old material between the underside of the deck and
the rubrail and between the bottom of the toerail and the top of the deck.
I would use Skiaflex to reseal these areas and Buytul tape for the bolt
holes.  Any thoughts, experiences?
> Jesse A. Rieber
> Witch of the Westmoreland
> 32' C&C, Cotuit, Cape Cod, MA
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Re: Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover

[Ken Heaton]

Same email only the link to the photos should work this time.

The Top Shop folks do good work.  http://www.topshop.on.ca/index.html
>
> I've had one of their covers on my boat for 3 winters now.  We live in a
> windy location with plenty of heavy wet slow in the winter and no issues so
> far.  They made it form a pattern they had, I didn't have to provide any
> measurements.  The cover and frame fit perfectly when it arrived.  They
> list the C&C 33 and 33 Mk.II as boats they have patterns for.
>
> This link takes you to a few photos of the frame and cover on our boat:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111836181322422930048/SalazarWinterCover?authkey=Gv1sRgCOzm7qCplrLY5QE
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On 27 August 2013 12:14, Raymond Macklin  wrote:
>
>> It is getting to be that time of the year again.  I bought my 1985 C&C 33
>> last year and it was stored inside.  This year it is going outside.  I am
>> trying to locate an winter cover or a company that makes covers for the 33
>> C&C.  If anyone can point me in the right direction, it would be greatly
>> appreciated.
>>
>> Ray
>> LakeHouse
>> Libertyville, IL
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover

[djhaug...@juno.com]

I used Fairclough and am very happy with the result.  They were much cheaper 
than the other companies I contacted.  There are a bunch of these at our 
marina.  They had me fill out a form with measurements and then, they came to 
my boat twice.  Once to build the frame and measure for the cover, then to 
install the cover. They say have 100s of existing patterns, they did not have 
mine.  It came out great! DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Raymond Macklin 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 10:14:34 -0500


It is getting to be that time of the year again.� I bought my 1985 C&C 
33 last year and it was stored inside.� This year it is going 
outside.� I am trying to locate an winter cover or a company that makes 
covers for the 33 C&C.� If anyone can point me in the right direction, 
it would be greatly appreciated.
 RayLakeHouseLibertyville, IL___
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Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery

[Rick Brass]

David;

 

I have an Admiral Panel for my Universal M35B. The panel is wired so that
turning on the key energizes the 12v wire to the preheat pushbutton. When
the button is pushed low current flows to the Glow plug relay and closes it,
allowing high current from the battery to heat the glow plugs. Pushing the
preheat pushbutton also energizes the 12v wire supplying the starting
pushbutton. Ag ain pushing the starter button energizes the starter relay
and battery current flows through the relay to the starter. On my boat you
cannot crank the engine unless you push the Glowplug button first. 

 

During the earlier discussion of your starting problem, IIRC, we determined
that the instructions for Universal and Westerbeke engines tell you to hold
the preheat button closed until the engine starts and the oil pressure alarm
goes off. That implies you should be able to power the glow plugs while
cranking the engine, and after the engine starts. I can't ever recall doing
that on my boat, I release the preheat button when I release the sterter
button, but those are the instructions.

 

My first thought was that someone had tinkered with the wiring of the
buttons on your engine panel? Do you have 12v power supply wires running in
parallel from the key switch to the preheat and start buttons? The wiring
diagram I have shows that they should be wired in series as I have described
above. Low voltage at the panel could be causing the problem you describe.
What you said about your GPS may be an indicator of the same condition.

 

According to the manual, my M35B draws about 175 amps for normal cranking.
The glow plus probably draw another 20 or 30. If the start relay is closed
the voltage from your battery will drop, and perhaps it is dropping below
the voltage required to close the glow plug relay. It isn't uncommon for a
relay to need higher voltage to close initially that it needs to stay
energized once it closes.

 

I was diagnosing another problem back in May, and had occasion to put a
meter on my engine panel to check voltages. When the glow plugs and the
starter are activated, the voltage at the panel will drop from a normal
12.5-12.6 to something like 10.5-11 volts. Perhaps your voltage drop when
cranking is large enough that the glow plug relay will not pull in?

 

I have 2 Garmin plotters on my boat. The one at the Nav station is wired to
12v power through the breaker panel. It does not shut off when the engine is
cranked. But the one at the helm gets 12v power from a connection on the
back of the engine panel. This second GPS will shut down each time I crank
the engine, apparently because the supply voltage drops. If your GPS is
wired through the engine panel (or the 12v supply from the engine harness),
you might try changing the wiring so power is supplied from the breaker
panel. Changing the wiring of my helm GPS is one of the projects I hope to
get finished this weekend, because restarting the GPS a couple of ties a day
is a general PITA.

 

I can't really comment on the problem with your AGM battery, except to say
that having been involved in marketing batteries and electric vehicles for
about 30 years I've never been a fan of them. But it sounds like you
probably  have a bad battery and should probably get a new one under the
warranty. 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 10:05 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Drained AGM battery

 

I am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new boat.  First the
good news:  based on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue
seems definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has
started smoothly every time.  The only strange thing is that all the
directions I have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug
button while pushing the start button.  However, on mine, the engine will
not turn over unless I release the glow plug button.  Also, the GPS restarts
each time I start the engine, which may mean there is still some electrical
issue, but neither is a serious problem at this point.  

Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and
prop as best I could.  The shaft and prop were completely crusted with
barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job.  I may try
Velox next spring based on the advice of a local old timer.

 

So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is
completely dead.  This is the battery that is wired for the auto-bilge pump
switch and propane fume alarm (that is all I know of).  The batteries are 2
month old Power-tech AGM group 27's.  I could not get much of any charge
after a day of running the engine for a few hours totals.

Questions: 

1.  do new batteries fail at some rate?

2.  Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully discharged?  If so,
roughly how long would it take?  I brought it home and trie

Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery

[Chuck S]

Not sure I like this?  You never answered if you or on a mooring?What are you charging with?  The engine alternator or shorepower?  Is the battery completely isolated?I think you should remove every wire from the batteries and charge individually with a good charger connected to shorepower.  Then let sit overnight to be sure it holds the charge on it's own.  ChuckResolute1990 C&C 34RAtlantic City, NJFrom: "David Knecht" To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 9:22:00 AMSubject: Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery I used a pair of jumper cables and hooked up the dead battery in parallel with an old but servicable battery I had at home and hooked up the charger to it.  After an hour I had about 7 volts.  Now the charger would recognize the dead AGM and is charging it.  It was up to 10V overnight, so I am hoping it will finish the job.  If so, then I am back to figuring out what drained it or if there is an alternator problem.   I presume if I measure the voltage at each battery while the engine is running it will be  the charging voltage?  If I get 14.4 volts or so at both batteries, then presumably my alternator is OK?   Then I would be back to the propane alarm issue as the most likely culprit.  Does that plan sound reasonable?  Thanks- Dave  On Aug 26, 2013, at 11:08 PM, Russ & Melody  wrote:

Hi David,
1. - yes, a new battery can fail and a two month old battery is still on
warranty. Give it back for a load test / replacement.
2. - The AGM will charge from an alternator if discharged but may not
charge from a smart regulator as the have a dumb battery validation
check. If you want to use a smart charge on a really flat battery then
you need to jump start the process with a dumb charger or another
battery.
 - you should see life in the battery after a half hour on the
alternator but a few hours for a good bulk charge
You may have a fried diode in the alternator which can deplete a battery
when the engine is not running (and not isolated from the battery) and
give insufficient charge voltage.
Cheers,
Russ
Sweet
35 mk-1

At 07:04 AM 26/08/2013, you wrote:
I am beginning to feel that I
have bad karma with my new boat.  First the good news:  based
on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue seems
definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started
smoothly every time.  The only strange thing is that all the
directions I have read say that you should continue to push the glow plug
button while pushing the start button.  However, on mine, the engine
will not turn over unless I release the glow plug button.  Also, the
GPS restarts each time I start the engine, which may mean there is still
some electrical issue, but neither is a serious problem at this
point.  
Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and
prop as best I could.  The shaft and prop were completely crusted
with barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job. 
I may try Velox next spring based on the advice of a local old
timer.
So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is
completely dead.  This is the battery that is wired for the
auto-bilge pump switch and propane fume alarm (that is all I know
of).  The batteries are 2 month old Power-tech AGM group 27's. 
I could not get much of any charge after a day of running the engine for
a few hours totals.
Questions: 
1.  do new batteries fail at some rate?
2.  Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully
discharged?  If so, roughly how long would it take?  I brought
it home and tried to use my smart charger and that is not charging it at
all (the charging light does not come on).
Perhaps related- I twice was on the boat briefly during the week and
found the Xintex propane fume alarm going.  Both times I checked the
propane system and the tank shutoff was closed and all switches were off.
So I don't believe there were really propane fumes in the cabin.  So
could the sensor have failed?  Could the alarm going for many many
hours drain the battery (I don't think the bilge pump is doing
it).

David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

 

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___This List is provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com
David Knecht, Ph.D.    Professor and Head of Microscopy FacilityDepartment of Molecular and Cell BiologyU-312591 N. Eagleville Rd.University of ConnecticutStorrs, CT 06269860-486-2200860-486-4331 (fax)


David KnechtAries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT

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Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F

[Curtis]

I have just installed a new tome engine in my 30MK1 The shift cable is good
condition. Disconnected from the shift lever, I get smooth action all the
way threw the stroke. The shift lever on the tranny smooth as well, But
when I hook them up it takes a lot of pressure to move? The old engine I
just took out was a bit hard to shift as well? Any help on this would be
great. Has anybody had this problem? I need help. I have spent 4 evenings
working on it moving it around trying to re-adjust it. I'm at my end??
Help...
Thanks, lt
-- 
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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F

[Curtis]

2gm20F sorry.. With the to lever push pull cable. Wheel steering. Right
side throttle, Left side Trans shifter



On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 8:38 PM, Curtis  wrote:

>
> I have just installed a new tome engine in my 30MK1 The shift cable is
> good condition. Disconnected from the shift lever, I get smooth action all
> the way threw the stroke. The shift lever on the tranny smooth as well, But
> when I hook them up it takes a lot of pressure to move? The old engine I
> just took out was a bit hard to shift as well? Any help on this would be
> great. Has anybody had this problem? I need help. I have spent 4 evenings
> working on it moving it around trying to re-adjust it. I'm at my end??
> Help...
> Thanks, lt
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>
>


-- 
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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover

[Lee Youngblood]

Hi Raymond,

I'd recommend Jim Welinski  at Ship Shape Canvas - he's a good guy in Duluth.
They do Boat Covers and more.  This might be old but will give you an 
idea of the range:  30'=$2200, 40"=$3k Jim Welinski 
 218-624-5677


Cheers, Lee


It is getting to be that time of the year again.  I bought my 1985 
C&C 33 last year and it was stored inside.  This year it is going 
outside.  I am trying to locate an winter cover or a company that 
makes covers for the 33 C&C.  If anyone can point me in the right 
direction, it would be greatly appreciated.


Ray

LakeHouse

Libertyville, IL



--
Lee Youngblood  (425) 444-9109

Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker

Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
Office @ Dockside Solutions
7001 Seaview Avenue #160
Seattle, WA 98117
New Office Phone (206) 707-1778

GHYS website:  http://www.1gigharbor.com/


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Re: Stus-List 1981 30MK1 Shifting problem with the 2gm20F

[Rich Knowles]

Sounds to that your cable, good as it feels when unloaded, may be quite worn 
internally and is binding as soon as you load it up. I suggest replacing it. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo - C&C LF38
Halifax - Nova Scotia


On 2013-08-27, at 21:46, Curtis  wrote:

> 2gm20F sorry.. With the to lever push pull cable. Wheel steering. Right side 
> throttle, Left side Trans shifter
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 8:38 PM, Curtis  wrote:
>> 
>> I have just installed a new tome engine in my 30MK1 The shift cable is good 
>> condition. Disconnected from the shift lever, I get smooth action all the 
>> way threw the stroke. The shift lever on the tranny smooth as well, But when 
>> I hook them up it takes a lot of pressure to move? The old engine I just 
>> took out was a bit hard to shift as well? Any help on this would be great. 
>> Has anybody had this problem? I need help. I have spent 4 evenings working 
>> on it moving it around trying to re-adjust it. I'm at my end??
>> Help...
>> Thanks, lt
>> -- 
>> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
>> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List 1985 - C&C 33 Winter Boat Cover

[Colin Kilgour]

I had Quinte Canvas in Belleville ON provide the frame and cover for
my 33-II.  They've gone by several names over the years, now Top Shop,
but I think the roots of all are with Morch Marine which has a strong
C&C pedigree.  (Ian Morch was the first president of C&C)

I would think they could create a cover and frame for any C&C without
a problem (or the need to take measurements)

Cheers
Colin




On 8/27/13, Lee Youngblood  wrote:
> Hi Raymond,
>
> I'd recommend Jim Welinski  at Ship Shape Canvas - he's a good guy in
> Duluth.
> They do Boat Covers and more.  This might be old but will give you an
> idea of the range:  30'=$2200, 40"=$3k Jim Welinski
>  218-624-5677
>
> Cheers, Lee
>
>
>>It is getting to be that time of the year again.  I bought my 1985
>>C&C 33 last year and it was stored inside.  This year it is going
>>outside.  I am trying to locate an winter cover or a company that
>>makes covers for the 33 C&C.  If anyone can point me in the right
>>direction, it would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>>Ray
>>
>>LakeHouse
>>
>>Libertyville, IL
>
>
> --
> Lee Youngblood  (425) 444-9109
>
> Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker
>
> Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
> Office @ Dockside Solutions
> 7001 Seaview Avenue #160
> Seattle, WA 98117
> New Office Phone (206) 707-1778
>
> GHYS website:  http://www.1gigharbor.com/
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>

-- 
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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[Colin Kilgour]

CS's are good boats.  More cruisy than C&C's and not as racy.  Still
sails well, though. Better interiors generally.  Similar to better
build quality than C&C.

I had a CS27 for 5 years and loved it. CS30 is one of the most
comfortable 30 footers you'll of boats in that age and price point.

Cheers
Colin


On 8/27/13, Steve Thomas  wrote:
>A friend of mine has a CS30, and I sail on it quite a lot. They have an
> excellent interior layout, and the best use of interior
> space that I have seen on a 30 foot sailboat. They were often characterised
> as "marina beaters" because of their good cruising
> accommodations and relatively short overall length. The older design CS33 is
> very similar, and you gain little by paying a marina
> for the extra 3 feet.
>The boat sails well enough. My only real complaint as compared to my
> C&C27 MKIII is that you don't get at lot of warning when
> the rudder is reaching its limit, and it has an annoying tendency to round
> up when overpowered in a gust. Rudder could have been
> bigger in my opinion. My friend's boat has a tall rig with double spreaders
> and I think that some were built shorter. There were
> shoal draft versions available as well. All that I have seen come with
> factory self tailers, lines led aft to clutches, and an
> Isomat boom. If you are looking for a well built pocket cruiser, these boats
> are hard to beat. Price has been a bit high for me,
> they were 40 - 50k for a long time around here, or I would probably own one
> now. Don't forget that the Great Lakes boats are
> usually in better condition than the ones down south in salt water.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
> Bodnar
> Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 9:22 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?
>
>
>
> This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
> I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS boats.  The
> 2 avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
> The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley space and the
> double rear berth.
>
> Anyone want to check that one out for me???
>
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
>   Click on image to enlarge
>
> 30'  CS 30
>   a.. Year: 1988
>   b.. Current Price: US$ 22,500
>   c.. Located In Hingham, MA
>   d.. Hull Material: Fiberglass
>   e.. Engine/Fuel Type: Single diesel
>   f.. YW# 3144-2638685
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/CS-30-2638685/Hingham/MA/United-States#.UhyjrBusiSo
> --
>
> -
>   Dr. Mark Bodnar
> B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
> Bedford Chiropractic
> www.bedfordchiro.ca
> -
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>

-- 
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Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery

[Russ & Melody]

Hi Dave,

If you're getting 14.4 volts charging at the battery then your 
alternator diodes are okay.


If that battery takes a charge then you should have it load tested 
before going back into the boat. There is no harm in disconnecting 
the propane alarm while you're away form the boat. That will help 
eliminate it as a parasitic load. Just no smoking aboard before you 
turn it back on eh :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:22 AM 27/08/2013, you wrote:
 I used a pair of jumper cables and hooked up the dead battery in 
parallel with an old but servicable battery I had at home and 
hooked up the charger to it.  After an hour I had about 7 
volts.  Now the charger would recognize the dead AGM and is 
charging it.  It was up to 10V overnight, so I am hoping it will 
finish the job.  If so, then I am back to figuring out what drained 
it or if there is an alternator problem.   I presume if I measure 
the voltage at each battery while the engine is running it will 
be  the charging voltage?  If I get 14.4 volts or so at both 
batteries, then presumably my alternator is OK?   Then I would be 
back to the propane alarm issue as the most likely culprit.  Does 
that plan sound reasonable?  Thanks- Dave


On Aug 26, 2013, at 11:08 PM, Russ & Melody 
<russ...@telus.net> wrote:



Hi David,

1. - yes, a new battery can fail and a two month old battery is 
still on warranty. Give it back for a load test / replacement.


2. - The AGM will charge from an alternator if discharged but may 
not charge from a smart regulator as the have a dumb battery 
validation check. If you want to use a smart charge on a really 
flat battery then you need to jump start the process with a dumb 
charger or another battery.
 - you should see life in the battery after a half hour on the 
alternator but a few hours for a good bulk charge


You may have a fried diode in the alternator which can deplete a 
battery when the engine is not running (and not isolated from the 
battery) and give insufficient charge voltage.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:04 AM 26/08/2013, you wrote:
I am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new 
boat.  First the good news:  based on all the advice I received, 
the Universal starting issue seems definitely fixed- since I 
cleaned the ground connection, it has started smoothly every 
time.  The only strange thing is that all the directions I have 
read say that you should continue to push the glow plug button 
while pushing the start button.  However, on mine, the engine will 
not turn over unless I release the glow plug button.  Also, the 
GPS restarts each time I start the engine, which may mean there is 
still some electrical issue, but neither is a serious problem at this point.
Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the 
bottom and prop as best I could.  The shaft and prop were 
completely crusted with barnacles, so clearly my Pettit zinc coat 
did not do its job.  I may try Velox next spring based on the 
advice of a local old timer.


So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is 
completely dead.  This is the battery that is wired for the 
auto-bilge pump switch and propane fume alarm (that is all I know 
of).  The batteries are 2 month old Power-tech AGM group 27's.  I 
could not get much of any charge after a day of running the engine 
for a few hours totals.

Questions:
1.  do new batteries fail at some rate?
2.  Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully 
discharged?  If so, roughly how long would it take?  I brought it 
home and tried to use my smart charger and that is not charging it 
at all (the charging light does not come on).
Perhaps related- I twice was on the boat briefly during the week 
and found the Xintex propane fume alarm going.  Both times I 
checked the propane system and the tank shutoff was closed and all 
switches were off. So I don't believe there were really propane 
fumes in the cabin.  So could the sensor have failed?  Could the 
alarm going for many many hours drain the battery (I don't think 
the bilge pump is doing it).



David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[]




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David Knecht, Ph.D.
Professor and Head of Microscopy Facility
Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
U-3125
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200
860-486-4331 (fax)






David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[]




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Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery

[Rick Brass]

Chuck;

 

Whether he is on a mooring is sort of immaterial. David already indicated that 
the engine alternator had no effect on the dead battery during extended period 
(3 or 4 hours IIRC) of running. Below he says he used a common trick to show 
enough battery voltage for his smart charger to turn on and has managed to get 
the dead battery charged up to 10 volts after several hours on charge.

 

I agree with your suggestion to get the battery charged up and let it rest to 
see if it will actually hold a charge. Others have suggested that the battery 
be load tested after charging, which is also a very good idea – and something 
just about any auto parts store will do at no cost.

 

I personally think the battery is a good candidate for warranty replacement, 
unless David is very lucky. AGM batteries are designed to be automotive 
starting batteries – designed to be at 85-90% state of charge or higher at all 
times. They don’t last long in deep cycle use. If you run one of them dead, it 
is really hard to get them to ever come back.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 8:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery

 

Not sure I like this?  You never answered if you or on a mooring?
What are you charging with?  The engine alternator or shorepower?  Is the 
battery completely isolated?
I think you should remove every wire from the batteries and charge individually 
with a good charger connected to shorepower.  Then let sit overnight to be sure 
it holds the charge on it's own.  

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

  _  

From: "David Knecht" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 9:22:00 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Drained AGM battery

 I used a pair of jumper cables and hooked up the dead battery in parallel with 
an old but servicable battery I had at home and hooked up the charger to it.  
After an hour I had about 7 volts.  Now the charger would recognize the dead 
AGM and is charging it.  It was up to 10V overnight, so I am hoping it will 
finish the job.  If so, then I am back to figuring out what drained it or if 
there is an alternator problem.   I presume if I measure the voltage at each 
battery while the engine is running it will be  the charging voltage?  If I get 
14.4 volts or so at both batteries, then presumably my alternator is OK?   Then 
I would be back to the propane alarm issue as the most likely culprit.  Does 
that plan sound reasonable?  Thanks- Dave

  

On Aug 26, 2013, at 11:08 PM, Russ & Melody  wrote:

 

Hi David,

1. - yes, a new battery can fail and a two month old battery is still on 
warranty. Give it back for a load test / replacement.

2. - The AGM will charge from an alternator if discharged but may not charge 
from a smart regulator as the have a dumb battery validation check. If you want 
to use a smart charge on a really flat battery then you need to jump start the 
process with a dumb charger or another battery.
 - you should see life in the battery after a half hour on the alternator but a 
few hours for a good bulk charge

You may have a fried diode in the alternator which can deplete a battery when 
the engine is not running (and not isolated from the battery) and give 
insufficient charge voltage.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 07:04 AM 26/08/2013, you wrote:



I am beginning to feel that I have bad karma with my new boat.  First the good 
news:  based on all the advice I received, the Universal starting issue seems 
definitely fixed- since I cleaned the ground connection, it has started 
smoothly every time.  The only strange thing is that all the directions I have 
read say that you should continue to push the glow plug button while pushing 
the start button.  However, on mine, the engine will not turn over unless I 
release the glow plug button.  Also, the GPS restarts each time I start the 
engine, which may mean there is still some electrical issue, but neither is a 
serious problem at this point.  
Also, the black smoke etc. is largely gone since I cleaned the bottom and prop 
as best I could.  The shaft and prop were completely crusted with barnacles, so 
clearly my Pettit zinc coat did not do its job.  I may try Velox next spring 
based on the advice of a local old timer.

So yesterday I go went to the boat and found that my #1 battery is completely 
dead.  This is the battery that is wired for the auto-bilge pump switch and 
propane fume alarm (that is all I know of).  The batteries are 2 month old 
Power-tech AGM group 27's.  I could not get much of any charge after a day of 
running the engine for a few hours totals.
Questions: 
1.  do new batteries fail at some rate?
2.  Will an AGM charge from the alternator if fully discharged?  If so, roughly 
how long would it take?  I brought it home and tried to use my smart charger 
and that is not charging it at all

Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?

[Brent Driedger]

CS 30 hull number one s/v Magic, is in our harbour at Gimli Yacht Club. This 
boat was presented in an unfinished condition at the Toronto boat show without 
any real interior. They didn't complete it in time for the show and rumour has 
it, she was on the cover of Canadian Yachting that year.  It's owner has now 
built A new interior from scratch based on a sister ship parked beside her. 
Magic is a very fast CS 30 and built with C&C quality. I have raced on her and 
enjoyed the ride. Very comfortable cockpit with high backs. 
I know nothing of the later models but going with what I've learned about CS 
from the owners at our club ( three 30s a 40 a 27 or two) they are excellent 
boats and I wouldn't hesitate to own one. 

Watch us get passed by the 40 here.
http://youtu.be/w8JGRz_oQ2Q

Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg 

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-08-27, at 9:13 AM, "Tim Sippel"  wrote:

> Off the Top of my head:
> CS 30 was introduced early 80’s , a tony Castro design , they pre-sold very 
> well at the Toronto boat show, I think CS built all their boats out of the 
> Brampton factory.
> Later model CS30’s had cabin top ports instead of the fixed windows this 
> photo has. 
> There are at least 10 of these boats at our club , all holding up well . The 
> Volvo engine doesn’t seem as robust as the yanmar , and some had a cooling 
> system integrated into the transmission (no details on this , other than a 
> winter neighbor at the yard had a frozen /crack issue with his boat)
> The CS 30 seems to have retained its re-sale value fairly well , CS’s were 
> rumored to have osmosis problems , but that may have been over stated , as I 
> don’t see a lot of bottom work being done at our club.
> It’s a good looking boat , I often glance back at them during races.
>  
>  
>  
> Tim Sippel 
> 33mkii
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
> Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2013 10:04 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on this boat?
>  
> A buddy of mine had one. Very well built, and fast. The only thing I really 
> didn't like was the Volvo engine, which was always hard to start in cooler 
> weather, and parts were VERY overpriced. 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> On 8/27/2013 9:21 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:
> 
> This one just popped up on YachtWorld.
> I've heard very positive comments about the build quality of CS boats.  The 2 
> avail locally are asking $35000-38000.
> The interior layout looks good - with a little extra galley space and the 
> double rear berth.
> 
> Anyone want to check that one out for me???
> 
> Mark
>  
> 
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