Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
Bob Don't tighten too much.wrinkles in the luff are fast Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob Moriarty Sent: May 10, 2013 10:22 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards I replaced Ox's original(?) wire/rope headsail halyard with Cajun XLE. No problems with the sheaves. Once in awhile I have to tighten the halyard to remove a few wrinkles from the luff. I can live with that. Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 9:28 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote: Hello Again, Has anyone done a spectra/Double braid halyard to replace old wire/double braid halyards? If so, where did you have them done and would know about the splice? I'm going through this exercise for two reasons; It seems like a really good idea for strength and I would not have to replace my sheeves to accommodate a larger diameter line. I'm talking with Cajun ropes now and we're kicking around ideas of how to accomplish the end to end splice. Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2241 / Virus Database: 3162/5813 - Release Date: 05/10/13 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List WindowA Again
Fred, I bought the ridiculously expensive Sitka primer. $80 for a half pint (250ml). I hope it does its job well. I painted over the 295UV with black Interlux Brightside enamel and even covered a bit of the plexi. That hides the sealant and the primer from UV exposure, a lot like the black band around car windshields. Jake From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 9:36 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List WindowA Again Re 295 uv: When I used this product my windows sealed well, but the very expensive paint needed to make the sealant stick deteriorated badly where it was not covered by 295. Interestingly, It was supposed to protect against uv rays. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List VariProp Question
HI Steve, just completed a frantic search for this grease (as boat went in yesterday) and it's very hard to find as it comes from Germany. Found some at the VariProp distributor in Rode Island but it's expensive. If you want further info let me know. Scott C&C 35 Mk III Bedford NS -Original Message- From: OldSteveH Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 3:51 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List VariProp Question Ok, I think I figured it out - Extreme Pressure / Salt water DG sails in fresh water - does that mean any EP grade grease is suitable or is there a marine grade I should be using? Thanks, Steve -Original Message- From: OldSteveH [mailto:oldste...@sympatico.ca] Sent: May-10-13 1:42 PM To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' Subject: RE: VariProp Question Can anyone recommend a commonly available grease for my 2 blade variprop? The manual calls for an 'EP/SAL' grade hydrophobic grease. I cannot find any reference to this grease specification on the internet. Thanks, Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl C&C 34 Lions Head ON ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List VariProp Question
You could check out Lubriplate 130 AA, it's the grease recommended for Max Props and is available from PYI if you can't find it locally. On 11 May 2013 05:12, wrote: > HI Steve, just completed a frantic search for this grease (as boat went in > yesterday) and it's very hard to find as it comes from Germany. Found some > at the VariProp distributor in Rode Island but it's expensive. If you want > further info let me know. > > Scott > C&C 35 Mk III > Bedford NS > > -Original Message- From: OldSteveH > Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 3:51 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List VariProp Question > > > Ok, I think I figured it out - Extreme Pressure / Salt water > > DG sails in fresh water - does that mean any EP grade grease is suitable or > is there a marine grade I should be using? > > Thanks, > > Steve > > -Original Message- > From: OldSteveH [mailto:oldste...@sympatico.ca**] > Sent: May-10-13 1:42 PM > To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' > Subject: RE: VariProp Question > > Can anyone recommend a commonly available grease for my 2 blade variprop? > > The manual calls for an 'EP/SAL' grade hydrophobic grease. > > I cannot find any reference to this grease specification on the internet. > > Thanks, > > Steve Hood > S/V Diamond Girl > C&C 34 > Lions Head ON > > > > > __**_ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > __**_ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List factory reefing arrangement C&C 30MK 1
I have a similar setup to yours - but I have another cleat on the boom forward of the winch. One is for the 'regular' outhaul and the other is for reefs. I also have a trio of clam cleats on the aft side of the winch. My reefing lines run from the attachment rings on the port side of the boom up to the cringles in the leech of the main, then down to the two cheek blocks on the starboard side of the boom, then forward to the trio of clam cleats, then the winch, then the two cleats on the forward side of the winch. It looks like whomever set up your boom has two reef points built in, but only one cleat forward of the winch. The only problem with this is you would have to release the outhaul before cranking in the reef - not a biggie. It looks like you have multiple cam cleats aft of the winch, so you could secure the outhaul there. As to your other questions on the diagram - the winch on the coaming is the jib winch - the winch on the cabin top is a halyard winch. The line lock aft of the jib winch is probably for a spinnaker sheet - I have an extra set of winches (the original non self-tailing ones) put where the line lock is located - and a set of blocks places at the aft most part of the rail (under where your question about the line lock is located). The spin sheet goes from the clew to a set of twings (another topic) back to that block, then to the winch (only for heavier weather - when it is light, we just hand hold it). Sometimes we go from the rear block to the cabin top winch for control. Any other questions, let me know. Gary Nylander 30-1 #593 - Penniless - Original Message - From: "Curtis" To: Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 1:00 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List factory reefing arrangement C&C 30MK 1 http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/LTGoshen/LightAir-1.jpg http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/LTGoshen/Jibcar.jpg Here is what mi boom looks like. I wish someone could draw a diagrapam so I could run it correctly. I looks like what you discribed On 5/10/13, Rick Bushie wrote: Anchovy (hull#1) has a roller boom. I put in two line slab reefing for both reefs led back to the cockpit. This arrangement works very well but I'm switching out the double braid I originally used with dyneema or spectra to cut down on the effort required to overcome friction. Rick Bushie s/v Anchovy, 30-1, Hull #1 Worton Creek, MD Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.” ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards
My 1980 mast sheaves are aluminum also. Gary - Original Message - From: Rick Brass To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 9:34 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards The in-mast sheaves on Both Belle and Imzadi are machined aluminum, with a bronze bushing around the pin on which the sheave rotates. Must be a difference between the mid-70s boats and the later models. The Kenyon spar I fit to Belle in 2008 or 2009 had white plastic sheaves at the masthead. I reused the old sheaves off the 1975 vintage C&C mast being replaced. I did find that apparently the plastic sheaves were a slightly smaller diameter than the aluminum sheaves, because I had some clearance issues running the main and genoa halyards. The sheaves fit fine, but the addition of the halyard rubbed on the mast cap. Had to use my handy-dandy dremel tool to remove a bit of aluminum from the mast cap to provide clearance for the 3/8 main and 5/16 genoa halyard between the sheave and the cap. Rick Brass Imzadi -1976 C&C 38 mk1 la Belle Aurore -1975 C&C 25 mk1 Washington, NC Hey, Charlie, are you registered for Pirates on the Pungo yet? From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of cenel...@aol.com Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 1:54 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Spectra/double braid halyards I changed out my mast and boom sheaves after 16 years because they were worn out from use and sun exposure, cracked, chipped, etc. Certainly at the mast head, these plastic sheaves take a lot of sun exposure, at least in NC. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb cenel...@aol.com -- ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
