Linear Power Supply (Conversion Equipment Corp) from a basic four 510

[Armin Diehl]

The one from my 510 does not supply the main +5V, all the other voltages 
are present. Does someone have a schematic for that one, would me more 
easy.

I have uploaded pictures here: http://basicfour.de/mai510-PSU/small/

Thanks a lot

Armin

Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

[Adam Sampson]

ste...@malikoff.com writes:

> One thing that intrigues me is the end-on photo IMG_3161. It appears
> the top edge projects further than the bottom by a tiny bit leading to
> a tapered appearance,

It's not tapered; it just looks that way because I'm not holding it very
straight in the photo. I've added a couple more end-on pictures that
should show this more clearly:
  http://photos.offog.org/pdp11-panel/g/

> BTW the first image won't load for me: '... cannot be displayed,
> because it contains errors'.

It's a pretty big image. If your browser doesn't like it, try saving it
and loading it in something else? I've added a lower-res version as well.

Thanks,

-- 
Adam Sampson  

Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

[Pete Turnbull]

On 10/07/2015 02:21, ste...@malikoff.com wrote:

Pete: also teriffic photos, thanks as well! Nice measurements
especially the letter heights.


Thanks, you're welcome.


 A common method of
determining radii is to use an engineers radius guage.


Which is what I did :-)

--
Pete

Pete Turnbull

Re: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750)

[Torfinn Ingolfsen]

On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 7:36 AM, Jay West  wrote:
>>One problem is going to be authentication.  If it has any contact
>> information (and it seems like it would need to in order to be useful)
>> then it's gonna become a target for SPAM.
> Captcha?

And if you add a simple question in plain english to that, it will
foil mechanical turks and other ways designed to break CAPTCHAs.

-- 
Regards,
Torfinn

PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

[devin davison]

I asked for advice a while back on what to expect with moving a pdp 11, I
was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives. I'M getting pretty
lost in all the information about the drives, are there any good guides or
sites with lots of pictures of the drives taken from different angles apart
so i can get a better idea of what im going to be working with? Also,
people tell me getting the drives off the rails and out of the rack is a
pain, where would i find the appropriate information on how to do that? I
really don't want to take the drives out of the rack, but if it comes to
it, i would like to know how. I am scheduled to pick this stuff up in 5
days.

--Devin

Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

[Noel Chiappa]

> From: devin davison

> I was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives.

Err, I think we told you to lock the heads the RL0x's, not RX0x's; the former
use large rigid packs, the latter are 8" floppy drives. AFAIK, there is no
need to lock RX heads when moving them - there is nothing in the manual about
RX drives being shipped from DEC with the heads locks.

> are there any good guides or sites with lots of pictures of the drives
> taken from different angles apart so i can get a better idea of what im
> going to be working with?

Not that I know of, but the DEC manuals (mostly available online) are adequate.

> Also, people tell me getting the drives off the rails and out of the
> rack is a pain, where would i find the appropriate information on how
> to do that?

See above.

> I really don't want to take the drives out of the rack, but if it comes
> to it, i would like to know how. 

That's very wise - my last removal, it _really_ helped that I had read the
DEC manuals before-hand, as I wound up performing a removal I hadn't planned
on, and that had a tricky step I probably never would have found on my own,
but which I had luckily read about in the manuals.

Good luck on the move!

Noel

Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

[Noel Chiappa]

> From: Steven Malikoff

> It appears the top edge projects further than the bottom by a tiny bit
> leading to a tapered appearance, but I assume the plane of the printed
> inset panel is parallel to the exterior mounting surfaces.

By top edge I assume you mean the top edge of the unit (we need a common term
for the entire injection-molded plastic thingy), as it would be when mounted
on the rack?  And the distance you're talking about is the distance from the
very front of the unit to the flange that projects out around the unit on
three sides (sides and bottom), right?

OK, I'm measuring mine (with calipers :-), and from the back of the flange to
the front of the rim around the coloured insert, it is 3.80 cm at the top,
and... 3.80 cm at the bottom. So no tapering. (And it's the same on both
sides.)

> A common method of determining radii is to use an engineers radius
> guage.

Which I don't happen to have... something to add to my tool wish-list! :-)

> Failing that, try fitting a series of circular objects (coins etc.)
> which can then be measured with calipers or micrometer.

I did try with the butt ends of a number of large drill bits, but I didn't
get really good results. I mean, you can tell when it's way off (too small,
and the object 'lifts' off the surface at the outer edges of the object, too
large, and you get a gap in the middle), but there's a range in the middle
where it's hard to tell - it all depends on where you decide the ends of the
curved part are.

Oh, one note: when I gave the gap between the coloured insert, and the sides
of depression it sits in ("it's slightly smaller than the inset in the
plastic housing, by about .5 mm"), that .5 mm is on each side, not total.

Noel

Fwd: [SunRay-Users] Surplus SunRay 2 and SunRay 3

[Toby Thain]

via The Rescue List

-- Forwarded message --
From: Aaron Browne 
Date: Wed, Jul 1, 2015 at 7:43 PM
Subject: [SunRay-Users] Surplus SunRay 2 and SunRay 3 Units -
Victoria/Australia
To: SunRay-Users mailing list 


The company I work for is about to undertake a total endpoint replacement.

We are replacing all of our SunRay 2 and SunRay 3 devices - hundreds of
units of both types.
All units are in working order.

Is anyone interested in providing a new home for any of these devices?
Otherwise, they are going to be recycled.

Victoria/Australia is preferred destination but we can talk other parts of
Australia if required.

Cheers,
Aaron

___
SunRay-Users mailing list
sunray-us...@filibeto.org
http://www.filibeto.org/mailman/listinfo/sunray-users




--
raspberry-python.blogspot.com - www.pyptug.org - www.3DFutureTech.info -
@f_dion
___
rescue list - http://www.sunhelp.org/mailman/listinfo/rescue

Re: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750)

[Fred Cisin]

On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 7:36 AM, Jay West  wrote:

   One problem is going to be authentication.  If it has any contact
information (and it seems like it would need to in order to be useful)
then it's gonna become a target for SPAM.

Captcha?


Isn'y third world labor cheap enough to out-source Captcha answering in 
bulk?

OT: captcha (was: Re: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750) )

[Tapley, Mark]

On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:22 AM, Fred Cisin  wrote:

> Isn't third world labor cheap enough to out-source Captcha answering in bulk?

Only if someone has a failure of imagination. Here’s the way the third-world 
interface on that application will probably look:

“Exercises in applied colloquial English translation”
“Only 35  per hour"

:-(

Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

[Paul Koning]

> On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:18 AM, Noel Chiappa  wrote:
> 
>> From: devin davison
> 
>> I was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives.
> 
> Err, I think we told you to lock the heads the RL0x's, not RX0x's; the former
> use large rigid packs, the latter are 8" floppy drives. AFAIK, there is no
> need to lock RX heads when moving them - there is nothing in the manual about
> RX drives being shipped from DEC with the heads locks.

That seems logical; stepper motors are to some extent self-locking.

paul

Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

[Paul Koning]

> On Jul 9, 2015, at 9:21 PM, ste...@malikoff.com wrote:
> 
> Wow, I wake up and you blokes on the other side of the world have been busy 
> during the night working at getting a bunch of details for me :)
> Thanks Barry, Pete, Paul, Noel, Bill, Adam for your responses - the 
> measurements and photos are exactly what I need. I'll go through them in
> detail soon and adjust the drawing.
> 
> Paul: I will revisit the postscript file and fix up mine from it. There's a 
> reason I try to avoid splines in my CAD drawings, a long time ago
> I did DXFs for laser cutting some keyrings (see 
> http://web.aanet.com.au/~malikoff/jeep/keyring) using splines. The cutter 
> operator replaced
> them with arcs owing to their software not being able to process it properly. 
> Since then I've avoided splines for any drawing I do that has a
> chance of being exported as a DXF (or SVG for that matter) that is to be fed 
> to a CNC device.

Wow, it’s amazing that a device like that would be bothered by splines.  It 
speaks to the lack of competence on the part of the implementer.  Perhaps this 
problem dates back to the dark old ages of first generation cutters and has 
been cured by now?  If not, you can approximate things with arcs, but for it to 
look reasonably close to correct you need more short arcs than you have now.

> I'll also follow up on your observation about the variations in the handbooks 
> font, I'm sure I'll find them on bitsavers.

Not on bitsavers as far as I know (though Al is welcome to place a copy there 
if he wants to do so).  But you can find it on John Wilson’s site, at 
http://www.dbit.com/pub/misc/handbook.ttf

paul

Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

[Chris Osborn]

On Jul 10, 2015, at 8:48 AM, Paul Koning  wrote:

> Wow, it’s amazing that a device like that would be bothered by splines.  It 
> speaks to the lack of competence on the part of the implementer.  Perhaps 
> this problem dates back to the dark old ages of first generation cutters and 
> has been cured by now?  If not, you can approximate things with arcs, but for 
> it to look reasonably close to correct you need more short arcs than you have 
> now.

I think CamBam hates splines too, although it will load them and work with 
them, just very slowly. I usually have to tell it to convert all splines to 
polyline approximations.

I’ve never had any problems with splines with the lousy software I use with my 
vinyl cutter though. I load Illustrator 8 files and cut them without any issues.

--
Follow me on twitter: @FozzTexx
Check out my blog: http://insentricity.com

Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

[Jerry Weiss]

Make sure the doors are shut.   I used to tape them. Remove any floppies you 
care about.

Some of the non-DEC 8” drives used to come with a cardboard blank.  
But these were double sided disks and the blank was meant (I believe)
to prevent the heads from banging against each other.


Jerry Weiss
j...@ieee.org



> On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:40 AM, Paul Koning  wrote:
> 
> 
>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:18 AM, Noel Chiappa  wrote:
>> 
>>> From: devin davison
>> 
>>> I was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives.
>> 
>> Err, I think we told you to lock the heads the RL0x's, not RX0x's; the former
>> use large rigid packs, the latter are 8" floppy drives. AFAIK, there is no
>> need to lock RX heads when moving them - there is nothing in the manual about
>> RX drives being shipped from DEC with the heads locks.
> 
> That seems logical; stepper motors are to some extent self-locking.
> 
>   paul
> 
> 

Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

[Jerry Weiss]

See page 2-8 for a view of the packing configuration.

http://www.pdp8online.com/pdp8cgi/query_docs/tifftopdf.pl/pdp8docs/ek-0rx02-tm-001.pdf
 


Jerry Weiss
j...@ieee.org



> On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:57 AM, Jerry Weiss  wrote:
> 
> Make sure the doors are shut.   I used to tape them. Remove any floppies you 
> care about.
> 
> Some of the non-DEC 8” drives used to come with a cardboard blank.  
> But these were double sided disks and the blank was meant (I believe)
> to prevent the heads from banging against each other.
> 
> 
> Jerry Weiss
> j...@ieee.org
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:40 AM, Paul Koning  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jul 10, 2015, at 10:18 AM, Noel Chiappa  wrote:
>>> 
 From: devin davison
>>> 
 I was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives.
>>> 
>>> Err, I think we told you to lock the heads the RL0x's, not RX0x's; the 
>>> former
>>> use large rigid packs, the latter are 8" floppy drives. AFAIK, there is no
>>> need to lock RX heads when moving them - there is nothing in the manual 
>>> about
>>> RX drives being shipped from DEC with the heads locks.
>> 
>> That seems logical; stepper motors are to some extent self-locking.
>> 
>>  paul
>> 
>> 
> 

Re: OT: captcha (was: Re: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750) )

[Fred Cisin]

Isn't third world labor cheap enough to out-source Captcha answering in bulk?


Only if someone has a failure of imagination. Here’s the way the third-world 
interface on that application will probably look:
“Exercises in applied colloquial English translation”
“Only 35  per hour"
:-(


lumosity.com ?


Surely there must be some sort of Captcha spoofer API by now.

Re: OT: captcha

[Toby Thain]

On 2015-07-10 12:23 PM, Fred Cisin wrote:

Isn't third world labor cheap enough to out-source Captcha answering
in bulk?


Only if someone has a failure of imagination. Here’s the way the
third-world interface on that application will probably look:
“Exercises in applied colloquial English translation”
“Only 35  per hour"
:-(


lumosity.com ?


Surely there must be some sort of Captcha spoofer API by now.



As far as I know, even Mechanical Turk has been used to break them.

Everything depends on the ROI for the particular target...

--Toby

RE: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

[tony duell]

> 
> I asked for advice a while back on what to expect with moving a pdp 11, I
> was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives. I'M getting pretty

No. The RX01 and RX02 are dual 8" floppy drives. There is no need (or way) to
lock the heads in those. Both are single head units, so there is no need fpr a 
shipping disk either (on dual head units, the heads can bang into each other if
the drive is knocked about, but on a single head unit like an RX02 or RX02 it 
will
bang into the felt pressure pad which does no damage at all).

The ones to lock are the RL01 and RL02 (and all RKs, and...) These are 
14" hard disk units.

Actually, the RL positioner is pretty stiff. My experience is that if the drive
is transported front panel upwards, the heads won't move. Of course it
depends on how far you are moving it and over what sort of roads!

> lost in all the information about the drives, are there any good guides or
> sites with lots of pictures of the drives taken from different angles apart
> so i can get a better idea of what im going to be working with? Also,

You want to read _all_ the applicable manuals on Bitsavers. For the RL, at least
the user guide and maintenance/technical manuals.

> people tell me getting the drives off the rails and out of the rack is a
> pain, where would i find the appropriate information on how to do that? I
> really don't want to take the drives out of the rack, but if it comes to
> it, i would like to know how. I am scheduled to pick this stuff up in 5
> days.

It'll be in the same manuals (or at least how to mount them is, which is as 
useful :-)).
FWIW, I took my first RL01s out of their little rack to move them and hadn't 
even seen
the DEC manual. I found it dead easy. I do not know what all the fuss is about. 
I had to
take several RL's out for a recent house move and it took me a few minutes 
total. I find 
them easier than RK05s in that you remove the screws, the drives stay put. You 
release the
catches and slide the drive forward, it stays on the slides. Then you lift it 
off. With the RKs, 
you pull it of the sliders and it suddenly comes free and you and a friend 
suddenly get
all the weight.

-tony


--Devin

RE: Linear Power Supply (Conversion Equipment Corp) from a basic four 510

[dwight]

> Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2015 11:03:14 +0200
> From: a...@ardiehl.de
> To: General@lnx.armin.d; lnx.armin.d:On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts 
> cctalk@classiccmp.org
> Subject: Linear Power Supply (Conversion Equipment Corp) from a basic four 510
> 
> The one from my 510 does not supply the main +5V, all the other voltages 
> are present. Does someone have a schematic for that one, would me more 
> easy.
> I have uploaded pictures here: http://basicfour.de/mai510-PSU/small/
> 
> Thanks a lot
> 
> Armin

Linear supplies are the easiest to fix. Most of the circuits use 723 that
are straight forward regulators. The MC3302 ( LM339 ) is most likely
an over voltage detector or such.
Get a data sheet for the 723 and I suspect you'll be able to trouble
shoot with just that and no actual schematic. I think places like Jamco
still have these chips.
Locate the one used for the +5 and measure the voltages on
the pins. It will most likely tell you the issue.
Dwight


  

Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

[Noel Chiappa]

> From: tony duell

> I find [RL0x's] easier than RK05s

Try taking out an RA81!

(Somewhere I have pictures of the rig I built to take a couple of RA81's out
of some racks I was sent. I should post them...)

Noel

RE: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

[tony duell]

> > From: tony duell
> 
> > I find [RL0x's] easier than RK05s

> Try taking out an RA81!

I did an R80 (not much lighter) single-handedly.

The trick with those is to take the HDA out. It takes only a few minutes. Raise
the logic chassis (top part of the case including the front panel), then lock 
the
heads (you MUST do this anyway), release the belt tension (lever at the front
right), then unplug 3 cables (2 small ones on the front of the HDA and a 40 way
ribbon from the PCB on top), take off the 4 mouting nuts and lift the HDA up and
out. Then tape the spindle pulley so it doesn't turn when moving the unit. If 
it turns
backwards it is likely to damage the heads.

The rest of the drive (chassis, PSU, motor, logic PCBs) is just about liftable 
fully 
assembled.

I think the worst is the RA60. It's very heavy and it is a pain to dismantle. 
You have to take it 
apart a little bit at a time.

-tony

Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

[Matt Patoray]

The RA60 is my least favorite drive to move. The thought of disassembling
it crossed my mind but since it was being slid into a rack with a shelf and
not on rails it would not have helped much, so just picked it up, carried
it over and shoved it in.

On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 3:22 PM, tony duell  wrote:

>
> > > From: tony duell
> >
> > > I find [RL0x's] easier than RK05s
>
> > Try taking out an RA81!
>
> I did an R80 (not much lighter) single-handedly.
>
> The trick with those is to take the HDA out. It takes only a few minutes.
> Raise
> the logic chassis (top part of the case including the front panel), then
> lock the
> heads (you MUST do this anyway), release the belt tension (lever at the
> front
> right), then unplug 3 cables (2 small ones on the front of the HDA and a
> 40 way
> ribbon from the PCB on top), take off the 4 mouting nuts and lift the HDA
> up and
> out. Then tape the spindle pulley so it doesn't turn when moving the unit.
> If it turns
> backwards it is likely to damage the heads.
>
> The rest of the drive (chassis, PSU, motor, logic PCBs) is just about
> liftable fully
> assembled.
>
> I think the worst is the RA60. It's very heavy and it is a pain to
> dismantle. You have to take it
> apart a little bit at a time.
>
> -tony
>



-- 
Matt Patoray
Owner, MSP Productions
(330)542-3698
mspproducti...@gmail.com
KD8AMG Amateur Radio Call Sign

OT: Pentium processor sizes

[Joe Giliberti]

Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another
forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether
there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the
processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old
Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice.

Re: OT: Pentium processor sizes

[ethan]

Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another
forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether
there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the
processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old
Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice.


There are mobile specific processors. There are laptops that use socketed 
chips. There are laptops that I believe the CPUs are soldered in.


A good trick is to try to find the motherboard for sale on eBay and see if 
there is a picture of it without any heatsink or heat exchanger.


--
Ethan O'Toole

Re: OT: Pentium processor sizes

[jwsmobile]

On 7/10/2015 1:21 PM, Joe Giliberti wrote:

Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another
forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether
there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the
processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old
Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice.
I don't recall there being any different processors in the first 
Pentium.  The big effort in power reduction was by a group who did a 
power reduction project with the Pentium 3.  Many of the laptops had 
full sized Pentiums with novel cooling to make them work in a portable 
laptop form factor.


There were a series of projects where Intel did processors to upgrade 
previous families of chips with the newer technology.  For example a 486 
chip engineered to be happy with a 386 pin bus, but running at a higher 
clock, and similar upgrades for 486 systems. These were called 
"Overdrive" and were not power reduced as a goal of the product.


The Pentium was a big enough step that I don't know of any such for the 
486, where a Pentium could be stuffed in.  The BIOS became enough of a 
factor in making the Pentium go that it was necessary. Such dropins they 
had were all self contained that I mention in the previous paragraph.


The next act for Pentium (and quoting from this article) was MMX added 
in.  Pentium II of course went to the infamous Slot 1 / 2 form factor.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_microprocessors#32-bit_processors:_P5_microarchitecture

If you look up the processor you have in your Omnibook, some of the 
Pentium P5's could be upgraded, but you had to be careful as some had 
issues of being interchanged.


Thanks
Jim

Schematics/Service Manual for Yamaha C1

[ethan]

I'm just going to toss a feeler out there. One of my more recent most 
sought after machines was the Yamaha C1, a 286-12mhz MS-DOS "laptop" with 
11 midi ports.


I picked one up off of ebay, not cheap in it's non-working condition. I'm 
now working on getting it running.


I'm looking for schematics or service manual. It's a long shot :-) I 
contacted Yamaha of USA already and they said they don't have 
documentation going back that far. Both paper or digital.



My unit when powered on never seems to do a floppy seek, or boot. Caps 
lock and num lock don't trigger the LEDs. And it has an internal or 
external display dip switch. The unit always comes up set for external 
display, even though dip switch is set internal. I hunted inside and found 
9 electrolytic caps were leaking. I cleaned up the mess and replaced them, 
but still no go. The traces I can see that look on the fence all 
continuity test okay.


I have more caps on the way to replace all of the capacitors, and next 
step will be to look at the power supply output on an oscope to see how 
good or bad it looks.


I have already archived the eprom data, and will be scanning all the 
documentation and archiving the floppies. I will make it all available 
online. I have some of the programming docs, some dip switch info, pinouts 
for the expansion connector (but unfortunatly no hard drive controller 
connector afaik) and more.


Schematics would be good to go with that, as the mainboard has more than 2 
layers.


--
Ethan O'Toole

80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale

[Brendan Shanks]

I bought the two old Macs there this morning, but there's *years* of 80s
magazines still there: BYTE, nibbles, MacUser, Softalk, Creative Computing,
Personal Computing, Call-A.P.P.L.E, a few Macworld and PC Magazine issues,
probably some others I'm forgetting.
Only one more day for the sale, they'll probably let you haul them away for
(close to) nothing on Saturday.

Also there's a Toshiba T1000 and Apple II+ probably still there.

http://www.estatesales.net/CA/Huntington-Beach/92646/931308


Brendan

Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

[steven]

I've adjusted the drawing based upon some of the measurements provided, so far. 
However I'm not sure I interpret Pete's measurement of 33.1mm
from the back of the flange to the front of the box, correctly. Noel also says 
the same 'from the back of the flange' so I must be missing
something here.

I'd like to get it as accurate as possible. So, I've taken some of Adam's 
photos and annotated them with labelled arrows (hope that's ok Adam).
Would it be possible to get these? Hopefully this will clarify things. One or 
two labels are repeated, I know:
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/dimension_check-IMG_3161.jpg
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/dimension_check-IMG_3162.jpg
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/dimension_check-IMG_3144.jpg

Noel: thanks for trying the drill bits on the radius. From the original TU10 
photo I determined 9.6mm, Pete says 9.5mm so I'm not too far out.
I have adjusted it to 9.5mm anyway, along with most of the other measurements 
provided.

Paul: thanks for John's Handbook Truetype font. I've looked at it and (for me) 
the kerning is not quite right even when using the narrow 't'
(0054, or ALT + keypad 83) also on other characters. To get the proper 
representation for the panel I would need to convert the TTF word string
to an image or SVG path, shuffle the characters to the correct spacing and then 
reimport it. So I'll stick with what I have for this. His 's' is
far better than mine though - I'll work on that.

Thinking about Chris' mention of vinyl cutting, the long horizontal line could 
be dropped from the cutting image which would bring the length
down from the start of the |d| box to the end of the '11' ie. about 245mm which 
would should(?) fit an A4 cutting space. The line could be applied seperately 
with automotive or scrapbooking lining tape.

Thanks again

Steve.

Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale

[jwsmobile]

On 7/10/2015 5:05 PM, Brendan Shanks wrote:



Also there's a Toshiba T1000 and Apple II+ probably still there.

http://www.estatesales.net/CA/Huntington-Beach/92646/931308


Brendan

What did you make of the thing on the hand truck?

Gizmo
http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg

Apple 2
http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760229/1.jpg

BTW, this looks like the same operation that had the lead that got Bob 
Rosenbloom his IBM typewriter.  I know they bring in pickers and others 
to cherry pick the good stuff ahead of these sales from the sale that 
Bob's typewrite came from.


I picked up some books at the sale for my collection, and in researching 
the person who originally owned the book turned up fresh meat on a book 
scout's ABE books site.  However I got the good stuff, he got the crap.  
I would have liked to have snagged the guy's PhD bound thesis, as it was 
related to engineering mathematics, and is cited widely in other 
literature.  However I got his copies from project Ranger, of which he 
was a leading engineer.


BTW, Brendan, I'm in Orange if you are in the area.
thanks
Jim

Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

[Noel Chiappa]

> From: Steven Malikoff

> I'm not sure I interpret Pete's measurement of 33.1mm from the back of
> the flange to the front of the box, correctly. Noel also says the same
> 'from the back of the flange' so I must be missing something here.

Hmm. I thought for a moment I'd misread my calipers, but I checked again, and
3.80 is correct for the thing I measured, which is (on your IMG_3161) from the
lower end of i/j to the upper edge of d/g. So clearly we must be using
different definitions of 'flange', or something - or maybe his unit is
somewhat different from mine?


Here are the rest of the measurements from that image:

'k' = 'm' on mine, at 1.15 cm. That downward projecting flat (at one end of
'l' and 'm', which is at 90 degrees to the thing I'm calling the 'flange', the
thing with thickness 'i', which is completely horizontal - along two axes - in
that image) is cut back a bit, in the direction normal to the screen, from the
end of the upper part (at the left edge of 'k'), which is why they look, from
the slight angle in that image, like they aren't in a common vertical plane
(normal to the screen) - but they are.

'l' = 2.6mm; 'h' is 10.64 cm; 'd' is 5.73 cm; 'i' is 2.70 mm.

'g' looks to be about 4.6 mm; I should mention that the corner below it (at
the upper end of 'i') is not a right-angle, but a rounded thing with a fairly
considerable radius - something on the order of 3.5 mm. 'j' is 3.35 cm.

The edge labelled 'flush with bottom edge' is indeed flush with the left-hand
end of the horizontal flange.


On IMG_3162, 'q' is 1.16 cm; note that the left edge of 'q' is almost, but
not quite, in a plane with the right hand edge of 's'. The left edge of 'q'
is about 3.4 mm to the left of the right edge of 's'. 'u' is 1.13 cm. (This
turns out to be 'z' in the third image.)

Note that the little tab (the thing you're measuring 's' on) projects up
under the 'plate' which you're measuring 'u' on; i.e. the maximum width of
that tab, 't', is up underneath that plate. I can't measure it because it's
not a sharp angle where it meets the vertical surface (i.e. in the plane
normal to the screen) up under there; rather, it's a radiused corner (which
you can see in the next picture).


On IMG_3144, 'y' is about 1.56 cm (bit hard to measure that one; I should
have used a flat to give me good end point at the RHS to measure to); 'x' is
1.25 cm; 'v' is 9.1 mm (ditto); 'w' is 2.85 mm. 'a' I can't really give you
directly, but I can give you the distance from the upper end of a, to the
upper end of 'w', which is 7.96 cm; add that to 'w' and 'v' and that will
give you 'a'.

Noel

Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

[Noel Chiappa]

PS: To clarify (if needed) what I mean by 'the flange': orient the piece as
it would be if it were on the H960 (i.e. with the little interior tabs at the
top, and the coloured panel on the front); the 'flange' runs down one side,
along the bottom, and up the other side: it's a continuous piece, towards the
back of the unit, in a plane parallel to the plane of the coloured front
panel. HTH.

Noel

Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

[Pete Turnbull]

On 11/07/2015 01:21, ste...@malikoff.com wrote:

I've adjusted the drawing based upon some of the measurements
provided, so far.



I'd like to get it as accurate as possible. So, I've taken some of
Adam's photos and annotated them with labelled arrows (hope that's ok
Adam). Would it be possible to get these? Hopefully this will clarify
things. One or two labels are repeated, I know:



http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/dimension_check-IMG_3161.jpg


"flush with bottom edge?": yes, it is.

b = 93.5mm at the position shown, but it's slightly tapered,
  presumably for purposes of injection moulding.  If you measure
  it just above the flange (the part with thickness "i" in that
  photo) it's 94.5mm.  I'd not noticed that before.
d = 56.95mm
g = 4.93mm - 4.98mm depending on exactly where/how I measure it
h = 106mm
i = 2.46mm
j = 33.18mm
k = 11.67mm
L = 2.7mm where you drew the line, tapering to 2.3mm at the rear
  edge (for injection moulding again)
m = 14.25mm


http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/dimension_check-IMG_3162.jpg


q = 15.5mm
r = 6.35mm (it's a 1/4" hole to clear a 10-32UNF machine screw,
  which screws into a Tinnerman nut on the top crossmember of
  the rack)
s = 11.1mm (hard to be absolutely accurate with the tools I have,
  but that is suspiciously close to 7/16")
t = 27.9mm where you've drawn it.  You obviously realise it goes
  in further under the flange, radiused as shown in IMG_3144.
u = 11.27mm


http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/dimension_check-IMG_3144.jpg


a = 91.05mm (that's from upper surface to upper surface)
v = 9.21mm (average of two corners)
w = 2.53mm (this tapers as well, to 3.1mm at the base)
x = 12.25mm
y = 15.5mm (but on mine, the piece of the flange that y is the width
   of, is almost 1mm wider on one side, but only in the part
   hidden by the flange that Z points to)
z = about 0.5mm - you're trying to measure the taper on the edge of
   the flange?  Not easy to be accurate.

That flat part, across which you're measuring "x" and "y", looks as if 
it goes all the way across the bottom in IMG_3161 (where you've measured 
"k") but it doesn't on mine.  It only goes as far as you can see in 
IMG_3144, and there are machining marks in the plastic where the rest 
has been cut away - and from the look of the marks, they're in the mould.



 Noel: thanks for trying the drill bits on the radius. From the
original TU10 photo I determined 9.6mm, Pete says 9.5mm so I'm not
too far out. I have adjusted it to 9.5mm anyway, along with most of
the other measurements provided.


Bear in mind that as this was designed in the US, the design 
measurements and tools were almost certainly imperial rather than 
metric.  So that radius was probably cut on the master with a 3/4" 
cutter, rather than 19mm.  That makes the radius 3/8", which is 9.525mm: 
slightly larger than 9.50mm but closer to 9.5 than to 9.6.  Though I 
doubt anyone cares much about 0.1mm here, let alone 0.025mm :-)


--
Pete

Pete Turnbull

Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale

[Brendan Shanks]

> On Jul 10, 2015, at 5:39 PM, jwsmobile  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>> On 7/10/2015 5:05 PM, Brendan Shanks wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Also there's a Toshiba T1000 and Apple II+ probably still there.
>> 
>> http://www.estatesales.net/CA/Huntington-Beach/92646/931308
>> 
>> 
>> Brendan
> What did you make of the thing on the hand truck?
> 
> Gizmo
> http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg
> 
> Apple 2
> http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760229/1.jpg

Haha I didn't look at that closely but it looked like an old TV in pieces. 

> BTW, Brendan, I'm in Orange if you are in the area.

Cool I live in Huntington Beach, always keeping an eye out on Craigslist and 
estate sales for vintage stuff.

I wish I could save more of the magazines, there's a few full years of BYTE 
which are worth $$ on eBay, and I'd love to send the MacUser's to someone who 
could scan them. Unfortunately I won't be around tomorrow to grab them. 

Brendan

Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale

[Brent Hilpert]

On 2015-Jul-10, at 5:39 PM, jwsmobile wrote:
> On 7/10/2015 5:05 PM, Brendan Shanks wrote:
>> 
>> Also there's a Toshiba T1000 and Apple II+ probably still there.
>> 
>> http://www.estatesales.net/CA/Huntington-Beach/92646/931308
>> 
>> Brendan
> What did you make of the thing on the hand truck?
> 
> Gizmo
> http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg

That's the rear of a 70s colour TV, the stuff on the side looks like 
either/both convergence control or an early electronic tuning system with 
individual channel tuning.

Actually, it looks like a Heathkit with the plug-in modules along the rear 
chassis, the manuals on top look like the right colour with the little title 
window cut in the cover of Heathkit manuals.

Here we go, compare:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/34737609@N07/sets/72157613423708701

I think the estate one is an earlier model, probably early 70s, with the 
flickr-pics one probably a couple years later.

Re: A 'good-enough' H960 |d|i|g|i|t|a|l| PDP11 masthead replica

[Noel Chiappa]

> From: Pete Turnbull

> z = about 0.5mm - you're trying to measure the taper on the edge of
> the flange? Not easy to be accurate.

Ah, I've just realized I made a mistake in a previous message.

I thought 'z' was calling for the distance between the inner edge of what I'm
calling 'the flange' (i.e. the edge the left-hand arrow of 'x' is pointing
to), and the upright at the right end of what I'll call the 'bottom plate'
(when the piece is mounted on the H960, the bottom plate is in a plane
parallel to the ground - i.e. it's in a plane perpendicular to what I'm
calling 'the flange'). That upright is the vertical (in this picture) axis at
one end of 'z'.

Having called up a flat plate, and a square, to help measure accurately, the
width of the flange ('x') is 1.26 cm, and the distance from the outer edge of
the flange to the vertical at one end of 'z' (i.e. the end of the 'bottom
plate') is 1.57 cm at the 'bottom' of the plate (i.e. in this image), making
the distance from the inner edge of the flange to the vertical edge of the
bottom plate 3.1 mm - at the 'bottom' of the bottom plate.

At the _top_ of the bottom plate (i.e. the inner edge, when the unit is
mounted on an H960), the distance to the outer edge of the flange is 1.62cm,
making the 'flange inner edge' to 'bottom plate side' distance 3.6 mm, at the
'top' of the bottom plate.

So 'z', the variance between the two, is indeed 0.5 mm. Pete's spot on!

Noel

Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale

[jwsmobile]

On 7/10/2015 7:45 PM, Brent Hilpert wrote:

On 2015-Jul-10, at 5:39 PM, jwsmobile wrote:


Gizmo
http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg

That's the rear of a 70s colour TV, the stuff on the side looks like 
either/both convergence control or an early electronic tuning system with 
individual channel tuning.

Actually, it looks like a Heathkit with the plug-in modules along the rear 
chassis, the manuals on top look like the right colour with the little title 
window cut in the cover of Heathkit manuals.

Here we go, compare:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/34737609@N07/sets/72157613423708701

I think the estate one is an earlier model, probably early 70s, with the 
flickr-pics one probably a couple years later.
The thing that made me ask was that the grey thing was possibly a 1/4 or 
larger motor, and maybe it was some oddly skinned disk drive.  Now I see it.


My cousin built one of those and had the best workshop TV in full color 
till his wife made him put it in a box in the living room. Great fun 
with the controls that pulled out after that, but not near as fun as a 
25" or so color tv on your bench.


thanks for the info.

I will try to get there tomorrow, may call you, Brendan and let you 
distribute the Bytes.  I'm looking for a particular ad in the 70s thru 
80's magazines and if I find it that would be all I want to keep.


thanks
Jim

RE: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale

[Randy Dawson]

Most of the Byte magazines are here:
http://www.americanradiohistory.com/Byte_Magazine.htm


> Subject: Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale
> To: cctalk@classiccmp.org
> From: j...@jwsss.com
> Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2015 21:33:39 -0700
> 
> 
> 
> On 7/10/2015 7:45 PM, Brent Hilpert wrote:
> > On 2015-Jul-10, at 5:39 PM, jwsmobile wrote:
> >> 
> >> Gizmo
> >> http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg
> > That's the rear of a 70s colour TV, the stuff on the side looks like 
> > either/both convergence control or an early electronic tuning system with 
> > individual channel tuning.
> >
> > Actually, it looks like a Heathkit with the plug-in modules along the rear 
> > chassis, the manuals on top look like the right colour with the little 
> > title window cut in the cover of Heathkit manuals.
> >
> > Here we go, compare:
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/34737609@N07/sets/72157613423708701
> >
> > I think the estate one is an earlier model, probably early 70s, with the 
> > flickr-pics one probably a couple years later.
> The thing that made me ask was that the grey thing was possibly a 1/4 or 
> larger motor, and maybe it was some oddly skinned disk drive.  Now I see it.
> 
> My cousin built one of those and had the best workshop TV in full color 
> till his wife made him put it in a box in the living room. Great fun 
> with the controls that pulled out after that, but not near as fun as a 
> 25" or so color tv on your bench.
> 
> thanks for the info.
> 
> I will try to get there tomorrow, may call you, Brendan and let you 
> distribute the Bytes.  I'm looking for a particular ad in the 70s thru 
> 80's magazines and if I find it that would be all I want to keep.
> 
> thanks
> Jim
  

Re: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750)

[Alan Perry]

In the registry that I was planning on creating, I was going to include 
a lot of 11/750-specific fields. Does it have a Unibus expansion 
cabinet? What control store does it have? From the responses that I have 
received so far, I have already run into questions about what should be 
listed as an 11/750.


If someone wants to create a more general registry, I will support that 
effort as well.


alan

On 7/9/15 12:29 AM, Pontus Pihlgren wrote:

Sorry for top-posting but having read this thread I feel you are
discriminating for no real reason.

Certainly, if the registry is a plain old text file with one
maintainer then some limitations is probably good.

But with an rdbms and a nice front then it could encompass all
makes and models.

Some filtering on the output and bobs your uncle.

/P

On Mon, Jul 06, 2015 at 08:03:12PM -0700, Alan Perry wrote:

Is there any interest in starting a VAX-11/750 registry?  I wouldn't
mind knowing who else out there has one and where they are now.  If
you are interested, send me e-mail (vax11-...@snowmoose.com).

alan

On 7/4/15 1:40 PM, Toby Thain wrote:

On 2015-07-04 4:35 PM, Mattis Lind wrote:

Well. Despite all recent VAX-11/750 bashing it actually booted
both VMS 6.1
and Ultrix-32 4.0 today. ...

BTW. The CPU of the 11/750 is contained on five extended HEX boards,
(L0002, L0003, L0004, L0008, L0011/L0016/L0022). Then there is
the optional
RMD (L0006) module and possible MBA and extra unibus adapters.

I used a SCSI2SD card connected to a Emulex UC17 board.

A booting 750:
...

ULTRIX V4.0 (Rev. 161) (vax)






login: root

Password:



As a fellow 11/750 owner (sadly, not yet restored), I salute you!

--Toby

Re: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750)

[John Willis]

>What control store does it have?
>
>   I'm not quite sure what you mean by that.  Are you asking for the
> microcode revision?  That would also apply to pretty much all VAXes.
>
>
Probably referring to the L0005 CPU Control Store vs. L0008 Patchable
Control Store. There's also a few types of L0008 (-YA, -YB, and -YC, IIRC),
distinguished mostly by whether or not they contain any writable control
store.


jpw

RE: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750)

[Robert Armstrong]

> Alan Perry [ape...@snowmoose.com] wrote:
> ... I was going to include a lot of 11/750-specific fields.
> Does it have a Unibus expansion cabinet?

  That would apply to all 7xx VAXes, as well as many of the 8xxx family.  I
don't think any others had a UBA option, but I could easily be wrong.

>What control store does it have?

  I'm not quite sure what you mean by that.  Are you asking for the
microcode revision?  That would also apply to pretty much all VAXes.

  What other questions did you have in mind?

Bob

Re: OT: Pentium processor sizes

[Sean Caron]

If this is an old P5 Pentium, IIRC, it was the same CPU whether you were in
a laptop or a desktop. I remember many of those early Pentium laptops; they
ran incredibly hot and the battery life on them was just awful ...
Depending on a myriad of factors ... whether or not your particular
laptop's logic board has a socketed CPU; whether or not that laptop's
planar allows you to tune the clock rate, divider, voltage etc. beyond just
the stock settings; whether you've got an appropriate CPU on hand; there is
a remote possibility it could be done ... That said, I would expect your
chances to be better on a crummy "generic" laptop from that era; in my
experience, laptops from the major vendors were more highly integrated ...
there was more customization of i.e. the logic board and it's less likely
that the logic board allows any variance from the stock configuration ...
the "generic" laptops were a little more COTS-y and may be more amenable to
modification although they tend to be less portable and not so well built.

Best,

Sean



On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 4:25 PM,  wrote:

> Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another
>> forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether
>> there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the
>> processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old
>> Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice.
>>
>
> There are mobile specific processors. There are laptops that use socketed
> chips. There are laptops that I believe the CPUs are soldered in.
>
> A good trick is to try to find the motherboard for sale on eBay and see if
> there is a picture of it without any heatsink or heat exchanger.
>
> --
> Ethan O'Toole
>
>

Re: VAX-11/750 registry (Was: Reviving a VAX-11/750)

[Alan Perry]

On 7/10/15 10:10 AM, Robert Armstrong wrote:

Alan Perry [ape...@snowmoose.com] wrote:
... I was going to include a lot of 11/750-specific fields.
Does it have a Unibus expansion cabinet?

   That would apply to all 7xx VAXes, as well as many of the 8xxx family.  I
don't think any others had a UBA option, but I could easily be wrong.
That was just an example. I would like to keep track of system 
configurations, running status, aspirations for running status, and 
whatever else the folks who own these systems would like tracked.



What control store does it have?

   I'm not quite sure what you mean by that.  Are you asking for the
microcode revision?  That would also apply to pretty much all VAXes.

There were a variety of control store modules used in the 750.

http://home.claranet.nl/users/pb0aia/vax/750faq.html#pcs



   What other questions did you have in mind?


The thing about volunteer efforts is that they are volunteer efforts and 
subject to the whims of the people doing them.


alan



Bob

Re: OT: Pentium processor sizes

[Sean Caron]

There absolutely was a P5 Overdrive from Intel for 486 motherboards ... I
saw a few of them in the wild back in the day...


On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 5:51 PM, jwsmobile  wrote:

>
>
> On 7/10/2015 1:21 PM, Joe Giliberti wrote:
>
>> Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another
>> forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether
>> there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the
>> processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old
>> Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice.
>>
> I don't recall there being any different processors in the first Pentium.
> The big effort in power reduction was by a group who did a power reduction
> project with the Pentium 3.  Many of the laptops had full sized Pentiums
> with novel cooling to make them work in a portable laptop form factor.
>
> There were a series of projects where Intel did processors to upgrade
> previous families of chips with the newer technology.  For example a 486
> chip engineered to be happy with a 386 pin bus, but running at a higher
> clock, and similar upgrades for 486 systems. These were called "Overdrive"
> and were not power reduced as a goal of the product.
>
> The Pentium was a big enough step that I don't know of any such for the
> 486, where a Pentium could be stuffed in.  The BIOS became enough of a
> factor in making the Pentium go that it was necessary. Such dropins they
> had were all self contained that I mention in the previous paragraph.
>
> The next act for Pentium (and quoting from this article) was MMX added
> in.  Pentium II of course went to the infamous Slot 1 / 2 form factor.
>
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_microprocessors#32-bit_processors:_P5_microarchitecture
>
> If you look up the processor you have in your Omnibook, some of the
> Pentium P5's could be upgraded, but you had to be careful as some had
> issues of being interchanged.
>
> Thanks
> Jim
>

Re: Altos ACS 8000-15A

[Jay Jaeger]

A couple of things.

Firstly, I noticed that my Mini-Pro could only read SOME of the 2716's I
had, not all of them.  So, just because it read as zeros might not mean
it really is.

Secondly, there is a 2K bit Altos-related ROM available at

http://toastytech.com/files/ancientroms.html

There is a link to a zip file.  Look for the one labeled ALTOS.ROM in
the zip file - is is the right size (2K Bits).  It is "Monitor Version
6.05" - but it looks like is for a system that could have a hard disk.

I have an Altos 8000-2 (double density) that I just acquired off eBay
that is in a similar state - no floppy activity, nothing on the
terminal.  But I was able to dump its rom with an 8K Bytesaver - haven't
disassembled it yet.

If you weren't aware, Doc on the 8000 series is available at
http://www.bitsavers.org/pdf/altos .  But I don't think it covers the 8500.

JRJ

On 6/21/2015 10:43 AM, Chris Osborn wrote:
> Thanks to Josh Dersch I now have a good copy of the ROM for the Altos 8500 
> boards. I’ve put it up online here:
> 
>   http://retrobattlestations.com/Altos/Altos-8000-8500.rom
> 
> I burned it and popped it in but my Altos still doesn’t come up. Nothing is 
> output on console 1. I’ll have to start walking through everything and check 
> if the Z80 is getting clock, see if it’s running, and so on. I’m sure I can 
> get it fixed, it’s just going to be more work. :-)
> 
> --
> Follow me on twitter: @FozzTexx
> Check out my blog: http://insentricity.com
> 
> 

Altos ACS 8000-7 (8200) mainboard wanted / Shugart 4008 motor pulley

[Jay Jaeger]

Long story, but

I recently acquired an Altos ACS 8000-2 with an 8100-01 mainboard (which
currently is not functioning).   Acquired it on eBay where it was
represented as an ACS-8000-7, along with an Altos 8000-7A 29MB hard disk
(a Shugart 4008).  The hard disk was fine, but the computer wasn't the
one shown in the photo.  (I arranged for a partial refund.  At least the
disk was the one in the photo.  ;) ).

I was wondering if anyone had an 8200 mainboard (the one with the logic
for the hard disk on it) that they would be willing to sell at an
affordable price?

Also, I have a second Shugart 4008 hard disk, but it was configured for
50Hz - so the motor pulley is the wrong size.  Anyone out there have a
dead 4008 that they would be willing to have part with its motor pulley
and belt (and get the 50Hz set in return)?  (For example, I saw a
posting on youtube with a wobbly platter set that probably is a good
candidate...  ;) ).

Any tips on troubleshooting the mainboard on a double density Altos 8000
computer (mainboard 8100) would also be appreciated.  I have already
reseated the chips, polished the tarnish off some chips the apparently
had silver-plated pins, etc., to no avail.  Have dumped the ROM (2708).
 Next plan is to disassemble that, and slap a logic analyzer on "J2"
which has all of the bus signals on it.

Thanks in advance...

JRJ

Re: OT: Pentium processor sizes

[Sean Caron]

... sorry, I really dislike Google Mail sometimes :O Here's a URL:

http://www.intel.com/design/pentium/datashts/29054401.pdf

Also a nice full-color pic here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentium_OverDrive

Best,

Sean


On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 6:09 PM, Sean Caron  wrote:

> There absolutely was a P5 Overdrive from Intel for 486 motherboards ... I
> saw a few of them in the wild back in the day...
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 5:51 PM, jwsmobile  wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> On 7/10/2015 1:21 PM, Joe Giliberti wrote:
>>
>>> Hey. I'm sorry for the off topic post, but I couldn't think of another
>>> forum to ask my question. I'm just looking for information as to whether
>>> there are different sizes Pentium processor dependent upon whether the
>>> processor is for a desktop or laptop. I want to see if I can give my old
>>> Hewlett Packard OmniBook a little more juice.
>>>
>> I don't recall there being any different processors in the first
>> Pentium.  The big effort in power reduction was by a group who did a power
>> reduction project with the Pentium 3.  Many of the laptops had full sized
>> Pentiums with novel cooling to make them work in a portable laptop form
>> factor.
>>
>> There were a series of projects where Intel did processors to upgrade
>> previous families of chips with the newer technology.  For example a 486
>> chip engineered to be happy with a 386 pin bus, but running at a higher
>> clock, and similar upgrades for 486 systems. These were called "Overdrive"
>> and were not power reduced as a goal of the product.
>>
>> The Pentium was a big enough step that I don't know of any such for the
>> 486, where a Pentium could be stuffed in.  The BIOS became enough of a
>> factor in making the Pentium go that it was necessary. Such dropins they
>> had were all self contained that I mention in the previous paragraph.
>>
>> The next act for Pentium (and quoting from this article) was MMX added
>> in.  Pentium II of course went to the infamous Slot 1 / 2 form factor.
>>
>>
>> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_microprocessors#32-bit_processors:_P5_microarchitecture
>>
>> If you look up the processor you have in your Omnibook, some of the
>> Pentium P5's could be upgraded, but you had to be careful as some had
>> issues of being interchanged.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Jim
>>
>
>

Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

[David Humphries]

- Original Message - 
From: "devin davison" 
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" 


Sent: Friday, July 10, 2015 2:05 PM
Subject: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice



I asked for advice a while back on what to expect with moving a pdp 11, I
was told to lock the heads in the rx01 and rx02 drives. I'M getting pretty
lost in all the information about the drives, are there any good guides or
sites with lots of pictures of the drives taken from different angles 
apart

so i can get a better idea of what im going to be working with? Also,
people tell me getting the drives off the rails and out of the rack is a
pain, where would i find the appropriate information on how to do that? I
really don't want to take the drives out of the rack, but if it comes to
it, i would like to know how. I am scheduled to pick this stuff up in 5
days.

--Devin


If the drives are RL02's then   the thread below may help, I did a post
with some pics


http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?40361-Inspecting-and-Shipping-RL02-Drives

DaveH

Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

[devin davison]

I made a mistake. I was reading about the floppy drive and accidentally
mentioned the rx01 / rx02. The hardware to be moved is actually RL01/RL02
hard drives, not the floppy drive. Please forgive the mix up, any help is
appreciated.

On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 3:31 PM, Matt Patoray 
wrote:

> The RA60 is my least favorite drive to move. The thought of disassembling
> it crossed my mind but since it was being slid into a rack with a shelf and
> not on rails it would not have helped much, so just picked it up, carried
> it over and shoved it in.
>
> On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 3:22 PM, tony duell 
> wrote:
>
> >
> > > > From: tony duell
> > >
> > > > I find [RL0x's] easier than RK05s
> >
> > > Try taking out an RA81!
> >
> > I did an R80 (not much lighter) single-handedly.
> >
> > The trick with those is to take the HDA out. It takes only a few minutes.
> > Raise
> > the logic chassis (top part of the case including the front panel), then
> > lock the
> > heads (you MUST do this anyway), release the belt tension (lever at the
> > front
> > right), then unplug 3 cables (2 small ones on the front of the HDA and a
> > 40 way
> > ribbon from the PCB on top), take off the 4 mouting nuts and lift the HDA
> > up and
> > out. Then tape the spindle pulley so it doesn't turn when moving the
> unit.
> > If it turns
> > backwards it is likely to damage the heads.
> >
> > The rest of the drive (chassis, PSU, motor, logic PCBs) is just about
> > liftable fully
> > assembled.
> >
> > I think the worst is the RA60. It's very heavy and it is a pain to
> > dismantle. You have to take it
> > apart a little bit at a time.
> >
> > -tony
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Matt Patoray
> Owner, MSP Productions
> (330)542-3698
> mspproducti...@gmail.com
> KD8AMG Amateur Radio Call Sign
>

Re: Altos ACS 8000-7 (8200) mainboard wanted / Shugart 4008 motor pulley

[wulfman]

On 7/10/2015 7:50 PM, Jay Jaeger wrote:
> Long story, but
>
> I recently acquired an Altos ACS 8000-2 with an 8100-01 mainboard (which
> currently is not functioning).   Acquired it on eBay where it was
> represented as an ACS-8000-7, along with an Altos 8000-7A 29MB hard disk
> (a Shugart 4008).  The hard disk was fine, but the computer wasn't the
> one shown in the photo.  (I arranged for a partial refund.  At least the
> disk was the one in the photo.  ;) ).
>
> I was wondering if anyone had an 8200 mainboard (the one with the logic
> for the hard disk on it) that they would be willing to sell at an
> affordable price?
>
> Also, I have a second Shugart 4008 hard disk, but it was configured for
> 50Hz - so the motor pulley is the wrong size.  Anyone out there have a
> dead 4008 that they would be willing to have part with its motor pulley
> and belt (and get the 50Hz set in return)?  (For example, I saw a
> posting on youtube with a wobbly platter set that probably is a good
> candidate...  ;) ).
>
> Any tips on troubleshooting the mainboard on a double density Altos 8000
> computer (mainboard 8100) would also be appreciated.  I have already
> reseated the chips, polished the tarnish off some chips the apparently
> had silver-plated pins, etc., to no avail.  Have dumped the ROM (2708).
>  Next plan is to disassemble that, and slap a logic analyzer on "J2"
> which has all of the bus signals on it.
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> JRJ
>
This is why i collect cpu emulators. I have almost every kind made. I do
however need some jumper headers for a 68000 HMI unit
thats set for 68008 mode but thats another story.


what main CPU does this use, 8080 or a Z80 or ???



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Re: PDP 11 - how to lock heads in a rx01 and rx02 - seeking advice

[devin davison]

Once I do this myself i plan to put up a gallery of lots of pictures to
help another newcomer such as myself. Not having seen the actual hardware
is what gets me the most mixed up.

On Sat, Jul 11, 2015 at 12:11 AM, devin davison  wrote:

> I made a mistake. I was reading about the floppy drive and accidentally
> mentioned the rx01 / rx02. The hardware to be moved is actually RL01/RL02
> hard drives, not the floppy drive. Please forgive the mix up, any help is
> appreciated.
>
> On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 3:31 PM, Matt Patoray 
> wrote:
>
>> The RA60 is my least favorite drive to move. The thought of disassembling
>> it crossed my mind but since it was being slid into a rack with a shelf
>> and
>> not on rails it would not have helped much, so just picked it up, carried
>> it over and shoved it in.
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 3:22 PM, tony duell 
>> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > > > From: tony duell
>> > >
>> > > > I find [RL0x's] easier than RK05s
>> >
>> > > Try taking out an RA81!
>> >
>> > I did an R80 (not much lighter) single-handedly.
>> >
>> > The trick with those is to take the HDA out. It takes only a few
>> minutes.
>> > Raise
>> > the logic chassis (top part of the case including the front panel), then
>> > lock the
>> > heads (you MUST do this anyway), release the belt tension (lever at the
>> > front
>> > right), then unplug 3 cables (2 small ones on the front of the HDA and a
>> > 40 way
>> > ribbon from the PCB on top), take off the 4 mouting nuts and lift the
>> HDA
>> > up and
>> > out. Then tape the spindle pulley so it doesn't turn when moving the
>> unit.
>> > If it turns
>> > backwards it is likely to damage the heads.
>> >
>> > The rest of the drive (chassis, PSU, motor, logic PCBs) is just about
>> > liftable fully
>> > assembled.
>> >
>> > I think the worst is the RA60. It's very heavy and it is a pain to
>> > dismantle. You have to take it
>> > apart a little bit at a time.
>> >
>> > -tony
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Matt Patoray
>> Owner, MSP Productions
>> (330)542-3698
>> mspproducti...@gmail.com
>> KD8AMG Amateur Radio Call Sign
>>
>
>

Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale

[Brent Hilpert]

On 2015-Jul-10, at 9:33 PM, jwsmobile wrote:
> On 7/10/2015 7:45 PM, Brent Hilpert wrote:
>> On 2015-Jul-10, at 5:39 PM, jwsmobile wrote:
>>> 
>>> Gizmo
>>> http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg
>> That's the rear of a 70s colour TV, the stuff on the side looks like 
>> either/both convergence control or an early electronic tuning system with 
>> individual channel tuning.
>> 
>> Actually, it looks like a Heathkit with the plug-in modules along the rear 
>> chassis, the manuals on top look like the right colour with the little title 
>> window cut in the cover of Heathkit manuals.
>> 
>> Here we go, compare:
>>  https://www.flickr.com/photos/34737609@N07/sets/72157613423708701
>> 
>> I think the estate one is an earlier model, probably early 70s, with the 
>> flickr-pics one probably a couple years later.
> The thing that made me ask was that the grey thing was possibly a 1/4 or 
> larger motor, and maybe it was some oddly skinned disk drive.  Now I see it.

I had a similar thought at first glance - thought it might be a drum housing - 
till I noticed the IF coil cans and such and had to back off to something less 
exotic.
Then started to recognise it from looking at too many Heath catalogs as a kid.


> My cousin built one of those and had the best workshop TV in full color till 
> his wife made him put it in a box in the living room. Great fun with the 
> controls that pulled out after that, but not near as fun as a 25" or so color 
> tv on your bench.
> 
> thanks for the info.
> 
> I will try to get there tomorrow, may call you, Brendan and let you 
> distribute the Bytes.  I'm looking for a particular ad in the 70s thru 80's 
> magazines and if I find it that would be all I want to keep.
> 
> thanks
> Jim

Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale

[COURYHOUSE]

good for searching... but if you want sharp images... get them on  paper!
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/10/2015 9:52:40 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
rdawso...@hotmail.com writes:

Most of  the Byte magazines are  here:
http://www.americanradiohistory.com/Byte_Magazine.htm


>  Subject: Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale
> To:  cctalk@classiccmp.org
> From: j...@jwsss.com
> Date: Fri, 10 Jul  2015 21:33:39 -0700
> 
> 
> 
> On 7/10/2015 7:45 PM,  Brent Hilpert wrote:
> > On 2015-Jul-10, at 5:39 PM, jwsmobile  wrote:
> >> 
> >> Gizmo
> >>  http://pictures.estatesales.net/931308/21760158/1.jpg
> > That's the  rear of a 70s colour TV, the stuff on the side looks like 
either/both  convergence control or an early electronic tuning system with 
individual  channel tuning.
> >
> > Actually, it looks like a Heathkit  with the plug-in modules along the 
rear chassis, the manuals on top look like  the right colour with the little 
title window cut in the cover of Heathkit  manuals.
> >
> > Here we go, compare:
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/34737609@N07/sets/72157613423708701
>  >
> > I think the estate one is an earlier model, probably early  70s, with 
the flickr-pics one probably a couple years later.
> The thing  that made me ask was that the grey thing was possibly a 1/4 or 
> larger  motor, and maybe it was some oddly skinned disk drive.  Now I see 
 it.
> 
> My cousin built one of those and had the best workshop TV  in full color 
> till his wife made him put it in a box in the living  room. Great fun 
> with the controls that pulled out after that, but not  near as fun as a 
> 25" or so color tv on your bench.
> 
>  thanks for the info.
> 
> I will try to get there tomorrow, may  call you, Brendan and let you 
> distribute the Bytes.  I'm looking  for a particular ad in the 70s thru 
> 80's magazines and if I find it  that would be all I want to keep.
> 
> thanks
>  Jim
=

SGI Indy available for collection in Sao Paolo, Brasil

[Steven M Jones]

I think we've got a few active list members in Brasil, and somebody's 
got a nicely configured SGI Indy available for collection in Sao Paolo.


it has irix 6.2 installed (maybe) and (may still have) Maya and 
Photoshop 1 with licenses. and medias for irix only. two hdds inside. 
maxed ram. external cd rom. camera. 24 bit graphics card. (i may be 
able to find the 8bit card). all cables (scsi, monitor, ...)


if anyone want it, must pick it up in sao paulo soon. [...] oh and 
everything is very, very clean.


Original post is at: http://forums.nekochan.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=16729781

Please check the original post for contact details - I have nothing to 
do with this except for the re-posting.


Hope somebody manages to rescue the beast,
--S.

Re: OT: Pentium processor sizes

[COURYHOUSE]

a 486 jump to p5~  impressive!!
now to find  one
 
Collecting  microprocessors  is  fun,  and I am,trying  to figure a way  
display  the entire array in one large glass panel  over it. Perhaps use a 
half of a sliding glass door as a cover over the display  rack.frame.
 
Any other ideas>>   Ed #  _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org) 
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/10/2015 9:56:24 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
sca...@umich.edu writes:

There  absolutely was a P5 Overdrive from Intel for 486 motherboards ... I
saw a  few of them in the wild back in the  day...

Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale

[jwsmobile]

On 7/10/2015 9:52 PM, Randy Dawson wrote:

Most of the Byte magazines are here:
http://www.americanradiohistory.com/Byte_Magazine.htm



>Subject: Re: 80s magazines at Huntington Beach, CA estate sale
>To:cctalk@classiccmp.org
>From:j...@jwsss.com
>Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2015 21:33:39 -0700
>
Here is what I'm looking for.  There were several issues in the late 
70's or more likely the early 80's when ACP in Santa Ana was really big 
in mail order, components, and took Apple for rights to set prices they 
wished to sell the product at.  Apple was the first to challenge, and I 
think wrongly be able to create a single price, when the margin should 
be the call of the dealers they sell to.


Anyway, that led to a lot of business, and the scale to have a lot of 
Byte ads.  Several of them were text over a photo that Tom Freeman took 
at the ACP Swap meet.  I was dead center in the photo in one aisle of 
the meet going full blast looking directly at the camera.


I've not found it on any of the online versions, but I know there were 
issues it was published because Tom had one and called me when he found 
out there was someone recognizable in that photo.


So I'd like to get hands on them and see if I can find such an issue.  
If anyone else feels like doing so I'd love a scan and a date, because I 
didn't find the cover (back I think) on any of the ones I got.  And I 
think I have all of those gone thru.


If I get them I will try to twist someones arm to deal with sending 
them, as I didn't follow thru on the last promise I made.  But I hope 
not to have to trash them.  Assuming they are still there and are near 
free in cost.


thanks
Jim