The good LFP batteries all tell you max charge/discharge rate and that in their specifications. Cascading of batteries usually widens these rates.
Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar "we go where powerlines don't" http://members.sti.net/offgridsolar/ [1] e-mail offgridso...@sti.net [2] text 209 813 0060 On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 16:37:12 -0400, Jason Szumlanski wrote: I think what he means is that the battery lifespan will improve with slower charging. On that note, I have not seen much concrete information on how high charge rates affect all of these newer lithium batteries. They all claim outwardly that their battery can be charged fast, because let's face it... that's what consumers want. But behind the scenes they really want you to charge it slower (and not necessarily to 100%). How fast is too fast is the question I always have. On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 3:54 PM Chris Mason wrote: >Lower charge rates are more efficient both for the car's battery and the solar/ battery system I don't get that. Our house battery is full at about 11 a.m., so we have about four hours to charge the car. During that time we make about 6KW, so the car uses 5KW of that and charges up. If I went to the 120V charger, I would be charging all day and it still would not be charged. On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 1:05 PM Ray wrote: Also have a customer with a Leaf that can charge from a dual GVFX system. He uses the 120 vac charger. Lower charge rates are more efficient both for the car's battery and the solar/ battery system, so I recommend sticking to the 120 vac chargers if possible. Ray Walters Remote Solar 303 505-8760 On 6/7/20 6:04 PM, Darryl Thayer wrote: I was trying to charge a Nissan Leaf with a ? Iam not sure but two VFX i think old age.. i mostly rember having the problem. I think the car harger had a max of 2kw On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 3:41 PM Jay wrote: I've got offgrid 2 clients and they have no issues. They each have a Bolt and can choose the charging rate. They can run it at either power. But only use higher power when they have lots of sun. Older Stacked vfx and Schneider xw, no issues. I would expect the SW to work, however it's an odd beast as it's waveform steps change with load. More load, more steps, therefor cleaner so maybe at lower charge rate it's not clean enough. As to your issue it could be power factor Being really poor. Can you tell us what inverter, yea 5 years ago is a long time. Jay Peltz power. On Jun 7, 2020, at 11:53 AM, Darryl Thayer wrote: I think you said it well, about 5 years ago I tried to charge a car from an off-grid system. I did not record my events but the inverter had twice the power of the level two charger, yet the inverter would get hot and trip out. I was told a ferroresonant transformer may help, and it might be different with different cars. However, I was warned the ferroresonant was to stop input wave problems from arriving at the output not to prevent the output wave problems showing up on the input. The off-grid customer gave up. On Sun, Jun 7, 2020 at 6:36 AM Hilton Dier III wrote: The issue with EV chargers is that they create a lot of reactive power. Think of it as "slosh" in the waveform. That means that charging at 2,000 watts sloshes a lot more than 2kW through the cable, plug, outlet, and from the inverter. If you've got a reasonably good sinewave inverter the charger will like it fine. However, the inverter might not like the charger if you cut things too close. Make sure to have a lot of top end left in your inverter. Always use a transformer based inverter. The SW series has a big chunk of metal in it, so that's good. At 120V the Bolt will only draw 1440 watts max. An aftermarket Bolt 240V charger can draw up to 32 amps. That's 7.7 kW, so too big for an SW. Treat it more like 40 amps. The OEM 120/240 EVSE (smart charging cord) that comes with the car can draw 8 or 12 amps at 120V or 12 at 240V. Assume that the 8 amps is really 12 and the 12 is really 15 or a bit more. I have seen 15 amp plugs and outlets with the hot prong melting plastic around it. 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