Re: [RE-wrenches] Testing new batteries

Thu, 24 Mar 2011 16:29:34 -0700

We got one shipment of thick plate 2V that apparently had been mistakenly shipped with the wrong electrolyte mix.. the Battery folks were pretty good about ponying up.. they sent me everything I needed to get things straightened out.. (Including $$ for the hassle).. Basically they had me set the Charge Controllers a Little Hot to burn off Water, then charge the snot out of them (like on EQ all week end). after the return amps dropped below like 3-5% of the normal charge rate, we'd let things rest for a while and then check SG (temp compensated).. My take away was the notion that the batteries were designed to be "fully charged" when the regulated charge rate dropped below 3-5% and the SG averaged 1.28.. The Tech guy also told me that they used a constant current of like 80A for days for their commissioning charge... The biggest problem I've been having is getting folks head around the scale of the difference between thick plate technology and their old UL16s.. They sure can take a whole lot more to charge when they're down... Good Luck.. db


Dan Brown
Foxfire Energy Corp.
Renewable Energy Systems
(802)-483-2564
www.Foxfire-Energy.com
NABCEP #092907-44


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Testing new batteries
From: "Dana" <d...@solarwork.com>
Date: Thu, March 24, 2011 1:34 pm
To: "'RE-wrenches'" <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org>

HUP Solar One batteries recommend topping off the electrolyte and doing an initial EQ cycle prior to use. We always check SG and voltage/cell on arrival and to date never had any discrepancy on either.
 
Additionally we unbolt all connections, polish with a copper pipe wire brush all connecting surfaces [with a respirator on] re-bolt, check voltage & SG, then coat with Vaseline all connecting surfaces.
 
So, total we check volt per cell and SG twice. Considering that this bank will be in place for 16-20 years it is a good place to start. Do it once and do it correctly. This serves as a good baseline.
 
I have mentioned this before but we only use a refractometer for checking specific gravity anymore the accuracy is dead on and not subject to sticking floats and curvature of the electrolyte in the hydrometer.  Refractometers are $85-$100 each from a good plumbing wholesale house.
 
Dana Orzel
Great Solar Works, Inc
E - d...@solarwork.com
V - 970.626.5253
F - 970.626.4140
C - 970.209.4076
web - www.solarwork.com
 
"Responsible Technologies for Responsible People since 1988"
Do not ever believe anything, but seriously trust through action.
 
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Nick Soleil
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 11:20 AM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Testing new batteries
 
Hi Benn:
    Perhaps those batteries have just been sitting a little while, and need a recharge.  Generally speaking, if you find that the batteries test reading are a little low, they are probably just a little discharged.  After recharging the batteries, test them again.  If those readings are low, then contact the manufacturer with the data.  I have had great luck with battery manufacturers warranting their defective batteries in warranty.
 
Nick Soleil
Project Manager
Advanced Alternative Energy Solutions, LLC
PO Box 657
Petaluma, CA 94953
Cell: 707-321-2937
Office: 707-789-9537
Fax: 707-769-9037
 
 
From: benn kilburn <b...@daystarsolar.ca>
To: Wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org>
Sent: Thu, March 24, 2011 9:43:20 AM
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Testing new batteries

I'm curious of others experiences with testing "new" batteries right from the mfgr, before putting them into service.  I'm not talking about load testing, i mean just basics...voltage, specific gravity and electrolyte level.
 
I recently received some batteries (24 x 2V) and before putting them to work i tested all the voltages, SG's and levels.  Voltages were all with-in 0.016 V (2.1-2.084).  The SG's were within 0.037 (1.281-1.244).  Yes, the one with the lowest SG also had the lowest V.  
 
What concerns me a bit more than the few cells with lower SG is the consistent low levels of electrolyte.  All cells were between 3/4" and 1-1/2" below full, which is 1/4" below the bottom of the vent well tube.... with one exception that was bang-on full.  Interestingly, the one full battery was the only one with a different date code than the rest. 
 
Should the various levels of electrolyte mentioned be acceptable when a battery is brand new, straight from the mfgr?  How bout the SG's?
 
I'm considering adding electrolyte from a local battery shop instead of distilled water to top up all the batteries.  Comments?
 
Very thankful for the wealth of knowledge and experience on this list,
benn

DayStar Renewable Energy Inc. 
780-906-7807 
HAVE A SUNNY DAY
 
 
 
_______________________________________________
List sponsored by Home Power magazine

List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org

Options & settings:
http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org

List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org

List rules & etiquette:
www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm

Check out participant bios:
www.members.re-wrenches.org

 
_______________________________________________
List sponsored by Home Power magazine

List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org

Options & settings:
http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org

List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org

List rules & etiquette:
www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm

Check out participant bios:
www.members.re-wrenches.org

Reply via email to