hello Wrenches, Many years ago I had the (unfortunate?) experience of working for a couple of roofing companies. I was much more nimble back then. It did however, teach me some good (and bad) methods of working on and and with roofing materials. Some tips: - Roof jacks are very easy to install and we almost always install one at the eave line, if for no other reason, than to stop any dropped tools. I have been using a truss-head screws to anchor these ilo of nails. do NOT use "drywall screws". It is a quick set-up for a site survey.You do not need to remove the screws...just drive the jack up to remove. If the shingles are too brittle to lift, I place the screws through the face of the tab and after removing, slide a 5"X 5" piece of galvanized metal w/ dope under that tab. A few years ago we had an installation on a standing-seam metal and we attached the jacks to S-5 clamps and laid some cleated boards with carpet padding on the toeboard to access higher....worked nicely. Corrugated metal would be more difficult to work with. Never walk backwards on a roof. This sounds stupid, but we can all have "a lapse of logic". Grainger has a nice chart of properties of the various sealing tapes/ agents. Seems like butyl and EPDM are best for our sealing applications and neoprene for isolation. good luck, tom
Tom DeBates Habi-Tek 524 Summit St. Geneva,IL. 60134 630-262-8193 fax 630-262-1343
_______________________________________________ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org