Great stuff, innit? About non-removable Presta cores: it's not hard, just a
 bit more inconvenient, to remove them, and you ought to have all of your
equipment near at hand: Stan's with nozzle, pliers, rag.

Hod the tube with secondary hand pinching tube just below valve core.
Unscrew the locknut as far as possible. Use pliers to force nut off post.
Let core drop into tube, catching and holding it with secondary hand.
Insert nozze of Stan's dispenser over stem, add sealant, wipe as needed,
then use both hands to coax core back up the stem -- I push the stem down
over the core and then carefully invert stem to let core fall back into
place. Push locknut back onto post and use pliers to force back onto
threads. Voila.

On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 7:32 AM, Steven Frederick <stl...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm pretty sold on the stuff.  After a couple of recent experiences even
> more so.  I went to fix a slow leak in a Hetre-shod tube, and once I found
> the hole, I realized my tube glue was dried out.  Again.  Then I noticed
> that the tube had a removable core so I removed said core, added a jigger
> of Stan's, pumped up the bare tube enough to roughly triple it's size
> shook/spun it for a moment, and the hole sealed right up.  I then deflated
> and installed it, and promptly added Stan's to all the tubes I could (that
> had removable cores).
>
> A few days later, riding my new Stag with Stan-tubed PariMotos, I heard a
> juicy hissing sound when riding through a rough, gravely road construction
> area.  It stopped after a few revolutions and I pressed on.  Then I heard
> it again.  It again quickly stopped and on I went.  When I stopped at a
> park a mile or two later I spun the wheel and found a notable cut in the
> casing.  The tire was still damp around it but it was holding air fine.  On
> I went.
>
> I've had similar experiences with my tubeless mountain bike tires as well.
>
> Q-tubes brand tubes (QBP?) all seem to have removable cores.  I won't buy
> any that don't feature them from now on!  Like these:
>
>
> http://www.ebikestop.com/q_tubes_650b_x_35_43mm_32mm_presta_valve_tube_584mm_etrto-TU6870.php
>
> You can kind of tell when Stan's needs refreshing by putting your ear by
> the bottom of the tire (in a repair stand or whatever) and spinning it.  If
> you hear a liquid running sound, you're good.  If you hear more of a
> rolling debris sort of sound, it could probably use an ounce or two.  When
> in doubt, if it's been hot or you haven't topped it off in a couple of
> months, it can't hurt to dump in a little.  Add a little if you get a bad
> puncture, too--you always lose some before it seals.
>
> Steve
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 3, 2013 at 11:41 AM, Patrick Moore <bertin...@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Thanks. That is the one problem, so far, with Stan's -- having to monitor
>> the drying. I use it in tubes, so at worst it will mean replacing a pair
>> every 3 months or so, but at the rate I was getting flats before Stan's,
>> that is considerably less than the cost in patches that I was using.
>>
>> FWIW, a search for "correct amount of Stan's" led to a quote from a
>> Stan's rep who said, in effect, "2 oz for every tire". I put just 1 oz in
>> my 30 mm P-R, and the full 2 in 55 mm Exiwolfs.
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 11:50 AM, Ron Mc <bulldog...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I usually pump my tires every 3 to 4 days - latex tubes go down by
>>> definition.  It went flat a few hours after I pumped it, and it had been
>>> two weeks since I rode it.  Another charge of Stans, pumped it up and spun
>>> the wheel for awhile.  After 3 days it's holding solid.  Seems unlikely
>>> it's a new hole since I didn't ride the bike, so I assumed the old one
>>> dried out.  All is good for now.
>>>
>>> How did you discover that it had dried? Flats? Or no spray from the
>>>> valve?
>>>>
>>>>
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
>> patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
>> http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>>
>>
>> Albuquerque, NM
>>
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http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/


Albuquerque, NM

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