On Mon, 2013-05-13 at 07:37 -0600, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> Use whatever works. I have to disagree with Grant when he says that
> top tube length matters relatively little. 

That would be true for a narrow range of possibilities.  Too little and
you can end up with a lot of toe overlap and a need to use a stem with
more extension than is commonly available; too long a top tube and you
can end up needing a very short stem, perhaps shorter than commonly
available.  For the range of commonly available stems, say roughly
between 8 and 13 cm, you can probably achieve the same handlebar
location so in terms of fit it's probably true.

If you believe what the Kool Kids on the VSalon forum say [about racing
bikes] too long and too short of a stem will mess with the intended
weight distribution and spoil the handling of the bike.  I'm not sure if
that would really be true for bikes that tend to be as solid and stable
riding as Rivendells -- in fact, some of those Kool Kids are so full of
krap/full of themselves I disbelieve anything they say -- but it's a
potential factor as well.

> One complaint I had about the Sam Hill was that the size 56 had a 59
> cm tt which, for me, was quite a bit too long since my roads have a
> ~57 tt and even those require 8 cm stems. The only way to get
> comfortable on the SH was to have the bar quite a bit higher than I
> liked and I think that high bar -- 2-3" above saddle, IIRC (tho' I may
> NRRC) contributed to the poor feel while climbing seated.

And that's out of the range I was speaking of.  Get outside that range
and the statement's probably untrue, as you describe.

It should also be noted, with most "modern" sloper designs they no
longer size by seat tube length at all; about the ONLY thing that
matters is effective top tube length.



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