Thanks. If I had used a cutting thread tap, the pilot hole should be 5 mm for the M6 thread. The guide hole on the part is At Least open enough to clear a 5mm screw, so it could be a bigger hole, meaning less metal than needed to cut the M6 thread. This is the reason I chose the cold forming tap. I knew I would have to drill a slightly bigger hole to open the pilot hole, and would get the strongest possible threads out of the process. With the cold forming tap, none of the remaining metal is cut away - it's all forged into the thread shape, and all under compressive stress, which increases the fatigue strength.
On Tuesday, January 22, 2013 1:32:58 PM UTC-6, Philip Williamson wrote: > > Heroic. I love it. I need to learn about taps and dies, I think. > > Philip > www.biketinker.com > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/JxIvbXxqQ2sJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
