Just a few comments on pedal strike.  

As others have mentioned, it is scarey as all get out when it happens.  I 
would encourage you though that it's not inherently catastrophic.  The 
momentum you and the bike possess when moving forward is pretty 
significant, and it's mostly the _reaction_ to the strike that gets you in 
trouble.

(and those of you who have been on the list for a while have heard me 
mention this idea before on bike-to-bike-tire-overlap-contact and 
dropping-into-expansion-crack-surprises.)

If you contact the ground near the bottom of the pedal stroke, your foot 
and the pedal will be through the bottom of the stroke probably faster than 
you can react.  

If you have a strike when your foot is forward of bottom dead center, you 
will probably find you stop pedaling (assuming a coastable drivetrain) 
rather than push through and lever the rear wheel off the ground. 

It is probably a good exercise to lean your bike with the pedal at 6 
o'clock to see how far you can actually lean before you hit.  I have one 
bike - a 650B conversion - which had a reasonably low bb to start and is 
extremely easy to drag a pedal.  But, with most setups, you actually have 
to go over pretty far.  

Of course, riding fixed is a whole different animal, as you can't stop 
pedaling and you do have enough momentum to lever yourself off the ground 
with a pedal strike.  One of the nice benefits of learning to ride on a 
direct drive setup is that you find you can modify bike lean versus body 
position. I don't corner quite the same way on a fixed setup, but in 
general I'm able to corner just as quickly and sharply. 

hope that makes sense.

- Jim / cyclofiend.com

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