Those differences are mostly inconsequential. Take for example the 108. 
Compared to the 110, it's narrower by 1mm per side. OK, so sometimes that 
can mean the difference between the crank arms clearing the chainstay, but 
most of the time it's really not that important to get the BB length spot 
on. Especially for a square taper BB/crank system, using or not using 
grease on the taper and torquing to spec (whose spec) can also change the 
installation by millimeters.


On Monday, January 21, 2013 12:55:31 PM UTC-8, Dave wrote:
>
> Thanks Jay.  Typo on my part.  110mm.  Then with Phil Wood, seems like 110 
> isn't an option.....108, 111, 113.  Not that I'm ready to drop that kind of 
> cash, but just trying to understand my options.
>
>
>
> On Monday, January 21, 2013 12:51:08 PM UTC-8, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>>
>> Says 110mm, like this one, 
>> http://www.jensonusa.com/Bottom-Brackets/Shimano-UN53-Square-Taper-BB 
>> $10 
>>
>> On Jan 21, 10:42 pm, Dave <davele...@gmail.com> wrote: 
>> > Looks like I've got some reading/learning to do in terms of bottom 
>> > brackets.  "All riv's take a 100mm with the Sugino XD-2 crank" is what 
>> > rivbike says on their $40 cartridge bb page.  Then looking at Phil Wood 
>> > bb's on the net there are too many options.... 
>> > 
>> > On Monday, January 21, 2013 12:26:07 PM UTC-8, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote: 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > > A square taper BB is $20. Not a big deal. 
>> > 
>> > > On Jan 21, 10:21 pm, William <tapebu...@gmail.com> wrote: 
>> > > > The geometry is not all that hard to figure out.  A few mm of 
>> length 
>> > > change 
>> > > > will change your clearance by a few mm.  A few degrees of extra 
>> lean 
>> > > before 
>> > > > you scrape.  Pedal scrapes during a deep lean can be incredibly 
>> > > dangerous. 
>> > 
>> > > > In my opinion, it is much more important to have the right length 
>> for 
>> > > > pedalling than it is to have the right length for max turning 
>> clearance. 
>> > >  I 
>> > > > ride 172.5mm on all my bikes and when I ride my wife's Betty 
>> areound the 
>> > > > block, the 165mm arms on there feel like a midget bike to me.  Alot 
>> of 
>> > > the 
>> > > > fixie crowd run 165's to promote spinning, but on a geared bike, my 
>> > > > instinct tells me that 165s would be a mistake.  Narrow width 
>> platform 
>> > > > pedals, like the grip kings, could make more of a difference than 
>> > > crankarm 
>> > > > length, if you want to experiment more affordably. 
>> > 
>> > > > There's a semi-famous Greg Lemond quote about pedal clearance.  He 
>> said 
>> > > "if 
>> > > > you think you need to pedal through a corner, you weren't going 
>> fast 
>> > > enough 
>> > > > into the turn".  That's from a purely racer perspective. 
>> > 
>> > > > On Monday, January 21, 2013 11:33:47 AM UTC-8, Dave wrote: 
>> > 
>> > > > > Hey hey, 
>> > > > > Question about crank length and possible change.  I'm riding a 59 
>> > > bleriot 
>> > > > > protovelo that I bought used with a 175mm shimano 105 cranks on 
>> it. 
>> > >  The 
>> > > > > pedal strike I get is kind of avoidable,but still present 
>> frequently. 
>> > > > > I've tried the mks stream pedals that it came with, along with 
>> the 
>> > > gr-9 
>> > > > > platform pedals.   With toe clips, they strike the ground if 
>> moving 
>> > > the 
>> > > > > bike without my feet in them.  Any hard turns are problematic if 
>> you 
>> > > need 
>> > > > > to pedal through. 
>> > 
>> > > > > How much difference do you think moving to 165mm sugino xd2 
>> cranks 
>> > > would 
>> > > > > provide? I'm not sure of the Q factor on the shimano cranks, or 
>> how 
>> > > new 
>> > > > > cranks would work with my bottom bracket (not entirely sure 
>> what's in 
>> > > > > there)....so not sure if any of these questions can be answered. 
>>
>

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