I use the White 16-19 freewheel also.....I just blast the pawls with a
little Tri-flow oil now and then and while the pawls are stiff and the
cranks will rotate on a repair stand you actually want good strong
springs in the pawls for positive engagement. The weight of the rider
and bike will easily overcome any resistance in the freewheel
mechanism and it'll coast just fine. I do however agree with some of
the others.... I prefer mustache or drop bars for that 45 degree back
angle. The albatross bars are okay depending on how you have them set
up. I found that even with the longer stem recommended the front end
feels too light and I feel too upright. On a townie or crusier bicycle
for short trips its no biggie but a single speed meant for road riding
needs a more aerodynamic position that also takes advantage of your
glute muscles more. My opinion of course but you might try a longer
stem or lower the bars a speck and see if that helps. Try riding out
on the curve of the bar and see if you notice a difference. My own
albatross bars were mounted upside down to take advantage of that sort
of like a shallow mustache bar.

On Feb 12, 10:41 am, Peter Pesce <petepe...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Winds gusting to 40 today, so it's a bit tough to check for sluggishness. 
> You're either rocketing along with a tailwind, or barely moving.
> Early investigations on the drivetrain reveal a slightly too tight chain, 
> which isn't helping pedaling efficiency or bearing looseness. The chainline 
> is good, and the BB is good. The WI freewheel is definately tighter than the 
> Shimano. The pawl springs are so strong the cog will actually rotate 
> backwards if you turn it to the point just before it clicks, and release it. 
> Still, I don't think it's so bad that it's the whole cause of the sluggish 
> perception.
> I plan to commute this week on the Kojaks to get a large sample size of 
> experiences with them, then see where we are.
> Thanks all.
> Pete

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