I used chain waxing for some time in the past.  I heated the wax in an
aluminum pan directly above the heat source (oven burner), never
burned down the house.  Today, however, I've been using White
Lightning lubricant for some time.  It's clean and very easy to
apply.  I'm probably going to try the Boeshield T-9 product in the
future, it is recommended highly by many cyclists on the forums (where
are you Steve Palinscar?).  The Boeshield product leaves a waxy
coating after it dries and it doesn't require any very special
technique to apply.

In my opinion, after using chain waxing, it really was messy and too
much trouble to go through the process of getting the wax sufficiently
heated to get a good penetration.  There was also, in my mind, the
concern of getting the wax temperature up to a flash point.  This is a
legitimate concern.

Rivendell sells the Boeshield T-9 product, by the way, so I guess
Grant must like the product well enough to sell it...

Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ

On Feb 22, 2:45 am, Earl Grey <earlg...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Surprised I didn't find the definitive answer in the archives, or a
> riv reader for that matter.
>
> The 1992 Bridgestone catalogue mentions using a double boiler, thus
> 212 Fahrenheit max.
>
> Riv Reader Vol 1 Issue 1 says Grant uses a 400 F bath, and says the
> flash point is 425 F. Also says don't do this at home (liability
> reasons, one assumes).
>
> So, what do the extra 188 F get you? Lower viscosity and better
> penetration? Has anyone found this to matter, or has anyone the
> necessary scientific background to theorize upon the topic?
>
> Winter here is bone dry season, so it seems like the time to finally
> try wax after 20 years of cycling.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Gernot

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