Thomas, I believe your case as you state is very much to the extreme. Coastal basements have a temperature and moisture transition that is very hard on bicycles. Depending on the time of year you can move from a cool dry air conditioned state to a warm humid one outside. In the winter the same thing happens but going the other direction. Both times the frame and components are bathed in a thin fresh coat of water, inside and out. For corrosion to occur you need Electrolytic path and oxygen. The coatings generally used on bikes are micro porus and the above mentioned moisture provides a chance for a corrosion cycle to begin. Once the bike dries you have stopped the cycle. If you allow the bike to wet and dry frequently you will accelerate the process. Likewise, you can take that Bombadil with the coating over rust to New Mexico and it may never rust an atom of steel again, but the old rust will forever look rusty.
Realisticly a bike made with thin tubing will be hard pressed to rust to failure in any short amount of time. Most rust is going to be primarily of cosmetic concern. When our brazed frames are coming out of the flux removal process they look like crap, covered in thin scale of rust. In the case of hand print type corrosion failures, the metal was not properly cleaned with a solvent wipe prior to coating. This is a problem because the coating is not adheared to the surface of the steel in the location of the visible failure, and rust will progress more rapidly in these types of locations. Again, poor adhesion allows moistire and oxygen to the surface of the steel. Pigmented coating, both wet or dry are suceptible to the same modes of failure, the major difference is that you do not SEE the corrosion until it is severe, and then the repair, blast and paint, revove the other surface scale during the repair. Bottom line is that rust happens, slow it down and enjoy it for what it is, just slowly. Rob On Jan 19, 12:57 pm, "Allingham II, Thomas J" <thomas.alling...@skadden.com> wrote: > Here's my post on the topic from the Bombadil Google group, a little over a > year ago: > > "The black frame that Steve Bilenky posted yesterday is mine. Used to be raw > clear powdercoat, but at least in the salt air of South Jersey beaches, it > started to rust very quickly. Double whammy is that because of the rough look > of the clear powdercoat, it's very hard to see the rust unless you're looking > for it. > > Rivendell, of course, was totally stand up about it...." > > There's a short string that followed > here:http://www.flickr.com/groups/bombadil/discuss/72157622955616438/ > > Riv had a quick piece on the general issue on the website, but I don't see it > there any more. Personally, I think my problems were entirely the salt air > (my Bomba was parked in a basement less than 60 feet from the ocean). Unless > you're in a similar environment (or plan on riding in snow in an area that > salts the roads), I would guess you're fine. > > Here's the Bomba before:http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4249456177/ > > And the frame after (still building it after > repaint):http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/4815169169/ > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com > [mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of williwoods > Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2011 2:57 PM > To: RBW Owners Bunch > Subject: [RBW] Is the light surface rust on the clear powdered Riv's a long > term problem? > > Just curious if anyone agrees with various statements/opinions about the > clear powdered Rivendell frames I have received on some other forums. > > Personally im not too worried about it and I love the visual effect of the > pattern (see link of pics I provided above), much prefer the texture over it > being totally clean. > > I havent had my frame long enough to know if the rust effect is growing over > time or if its the same as it was when it left RBW HQ. > Any other raw frame experiences? > > Here are some of the posts: > > "Curious, it looks like rust is popping up in various spots under the clear. > Wondering if they simply cleared over it all, and it'll stay as is, or if it > will spread, or is spreading? " > > "That rust is an issue." > > "I have a number of clear powder frames that are 5+ years old with no rust > and heavy sweaty use, and there's not a hint of rust. I also was a dealer for > Salsa when they were doing a clear powder option, and I talked to Ross about > a frame we got that developed rust on the tt in the form of a hand print... > he thought it was a big deal and refinished at no cost. Wonder why Riv > wouldn't blast those frames first. If there's rust, it wll become an issue." > > On Jan 18, 10:39 am, williwoods <willh...@yahoo.com> wrote: > > I havent tried the Albatross bars. To me the Singles Bar is comfy. You > > would have to do a side by side comparison. I ride with gloves and am > > comfy for 15 miles plus no problem. I havent really ridden it much > > further distance wise. The bars have more give than the Bullmoose bars > > thats for sure. > > > On Jan 18, 8:01 am, JoelMatthews <joelmatth...@mac.com> wrote: > > > > "Swapped out the Bullmoose bars for these Sycip Singles Bar, found > > > my old Specialized branded Dirtdrop stem. This bar is so much more > > > versatile and comfortable than the Bullmoose bars I could never get > > > my hands comy on them, I figure it had to do with the fixed > > > rear-upward angle." > > > > How about flexibility of the Singles Bars? I speced a pair for a > > > custom. They look great but there is enough give in them I am > > > wondering if perhaps Albatross bars would be a better choice. > > > > On Jan 17, 4:04 pm, williwoods <willh...@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > > > Hey Guys, > > > > > Here are some updated pics of my Bombadil after much tinkering, > > > > experimenting and of course plenty of saddle time. Everything > > > > functions wonderfully. > > > > > Swapped out the Bullmoose bars for these Sycip Singles Bar, found > > > > my old Specialized branded Dirtdrop stem. This bar is so much more > > > > versatile and comfortable than the Bullmoose bars I could never > > > > get my hands comy on them, I figure it had to do with the fixed > > > > rear-upward angle. As you can see I have these bars rear-downward > > > > which feels much more natural. Decided I would run the > > > > thumbshifters under the bar so I would have more hand positions, > > > > they function near perfect except when I am trying to shift into > > > > the lowest gear in the rear its a little awkward but im used to it > > > > now and doable just a little stretch to do it. Of course now the > > > > rear shifter is now on the left and the front on the right, my brain > > > > doesnt have a preference, im totally fine with it. > > > > I then added the orange tape (yellow would have been better) and > > > > shellacked and twined the whole thing together its about 4/5 coats > > > > of shellac. Also twined the chainstay and shellacked that too. > > > > > Added the Suntour Superbe pedals and they are much better to me > > > > than the MKS touring pedals I had. > > > > > Swapped the Quasi-Moto tires for the Fatty Rumpkins since im not > > > > riding in the dirt and was planning on fenders which are the VO > > > > Zeppelin model that are used but not too abused. The fenders had > > > > several holes from the previous owner that I covered up with Foil > > > > tape, I also used a small strip on the seatpost to remind me of my > > > > usual saddle height. > > > > > You can also see that I now have one of the Nitto R cages and a > > > > Electra Ticino cage, they look exactly the same. > > > > > My favorite mod was running the Bell on the exposed threads of the > > > > Canti brake hanger. Its a little forward of where you > > > > traditionally would run it but I can reach my finger easily to the > > > > striker which is pointing up, the position keeps it out of the way > > > > which I like. > > > > > I also had to swap out the headset which was pitted out from being > > > > run loose, the new headset is one of the really awesome Cane Creek > > > > 100 threaded units which are I think even nicer than a Chris King. > > > > > I was also running the VO 1st gen brakes but got tired of them > > > > cause there was no toe-in adjustment and no spring adjustment. > > > > They stopped great but squeeled like crazy and one side of the > > > > brke arm on the front always ran too close to the rim. These > > > > Shimano brakes are pretty fiddly but I really appreciate the > > > > adjustments and was able to get them set-up perfectly. > > > > > And last but not least I bought a pair of the Paul brake levers > > > > cause they are so sexy. > > > > > The only thing I need now is a front rack, then the build will be > > > > complete. I still havent figured out which one I want. Kinda like > > > > the VO porteur rack, but im not settled on that yet. Oh yeah then > > > > I need bags........it never ends, ah the fun. > > > > > Other upgrades I would like to do: Paul brakes, Swap out the hubs > > > > for White industries or I have some 8spd DuraAce hubs that I could > > > > respace to 135mm. Maybe I should just get some rims and build a > > > > second set of wheels...well see. I would finally like to get a set > > > > of the VO 50.4mm 172.5mm cranks in a 46/30 config. > > > > >http://tinyurl.com/49vzwzg > > > > > Any Thoughts? > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > **************************************************** > > To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you > that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice contained > in this message was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, > for the purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under the Internal > Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions or (ii) > promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any tax-related matters > addressed herein. > **************************************************** > **************************************************** > > This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the > addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or > confidential information. 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