Hi! Well, one thing I've seen is that 8-speed cassettes and chains can be had more cheaply than 9-speed cassettes and chains. Even the front *and* rear derailers that are marketed as 9-speed tend to be more expensive than those marketed as 8-speed. On the rears, I'm not sure there's *anything* "speed-specific" to really distinguish 8-speed derailers from 9-speed derailers.
Now, I'm sure we're expected to *believe* there's an actual quality difference between those "8-speed" components and the "9-speed" components. And there may *be* a quality difference. I'm not saying there isn't. In fact, I kind of suspect there is for 9-speed rear derailers. But I'm not sure it's a quality difference that results in a functional difference, when used in they are used in the proper context. But... I will say that I've ridden several (>5... 6? 7?) thousand miles using "830"-series SRAM chains (<$13) and cassettes (<$20) using a Shimano Acera rear derailer (used to be $15, now $20) and some un- grouped generic Shimano 8-speed front derailer using indexed front and rear Shimano trigger brifters (<$50) and have had no shifting problems that weren't explained by debris in the drivetrain. Nor have I had any particularly rapid wear; I've gotten well >1000 miles out of each chain and got >3000 miles on my first cassette. I'm sure some people get more than that out of both their chain and cassette, 9-speed users included. But I'm pretty sure switching from 8 to 9 speeds would likely be more expensive for a given rider long- term, even assuming the 9-speed stuff is in fact higher quality and would last somewhat longer for that rider. I doubt that it would generally last twice as long. So basically, IMHO, choose 9-speeds it offers something tangible that you want (desired choices for gearing range and steps, lighter weight components, shifting the front derailer less often, etc)... I wouldn't choose it based on the belief that 8-speed drivetrains don't shift as well. Thousands of miles of virtually flawless shifting on a mere Trek hybrid tell me that 8-speed drivetrains shift quite well. If you're happy with the range and stepping provided by an 8-speed 11-32 cassette, it'll work fine for you. I've been happy with 11-28, 11-30, and 11-32. I almost never used the 11. And never *needed* the 32, though I did sometimes shift to it when hauling 55lbs away from an uphill stoplight. Could've done it okay with the 28, but the 32 was there. As for spacing... according to Sheldon 9-speed Shimano/SRAM cassette cogs are over 0.46mm closer together than cogs on 8-speed Shimano/SRAM cassettes (i.e. 4.34mm for 9, 4.8mm for 8). To me, that's a difference that certainly *could* make a difference in friction shifting performance for a given rider. Some people, maybe most people, will be able to friction shift 9-speed cassettes without problems, I'm sure. But I'm also sure that there are people out there who would have no problem friction shifting an 8-speed cassette for whom a 9-speed cassette will be a significant challenge. The difference between 8- speed and 7-speed varies but typically within a narrower range. Sheldon gives several examples of 5.0mm spacing for 7-speed cassettes/ freewheels; IRD told me their Defiant 7-speed freewheel spacing is 4.9mm. (I believe them too; I have no shifting problems with Shimano 8- speed bar-ends and an IRD 7-speed freewheel on my Hillborne.) And for the record... I intend to use the brifters I've got until they stop working well. They were the first thing I wanted to change about the bike when I got it. But they've never given me an excuse to do so. Since I now have a Hillborne, one can understand that it may be a while before I put another several thousand miles on my Trek! But when the brifters do die (perhaps by being hit with a hammer-shaped object :)), I'll replace them with Shimano bar-ends-on-Thumbies and some generic brake lever (this bike does not merit Paul brakes or levers). That'll be partly for aesthetics (the brifters are big and clunky-looking), partly for consistency (I use bar-ends or bar-ends-on- Thumbies on my Hillborne), and partly because I simply prefer the feel of the rotating action of the bar-end to the two-lever arrangement of the brifter shifting. It will *not* be because I expect the bar-ends to work better than the brifters. I *love* using friction for the front derailer; I'm so glad Shimano made the bar-ends work that way. If I had an indexed option, I wouldn't use it. I currently use indexed with the rear derailer, though I've had no particular problem the few times I've toyed with friction shifting there as well. In fact, I fully intend to give rear- derailer friction shifting a fair shake by trying out the Silver shifters I have but simply haven't taken the time to install yet. In the end I have no doubt that I'll have at least one cockpit set up with friction front and back, simply for the variety if for no other reason. I like the function of indexing. But I'm no fan of the big "clunk". Yours, Thomas Lynn Skean On Oct 3, 5:11 pm, Justin August <justinaug...@gmail.com> wrote: > Hmm... > I'm also wondering if I gain anything by going 9 speed over 8? > I know that 10 speed is considered far less durable but what about the > differences between 8 and 9? > > -Justin > > On Oct 3, 4:54 pm, Powderpiggy <keely.murd...@verizon.net> wrote: > > > I am using a 9 speed cassette with the Silvers. No problems here, > > and I love them!!! > > > On Oct 3, 1:49 pm, Garth <garth...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > No worry at all. They'll shift as many cogs as you want. Go ahead and > > > order them. > > > > If a friction shifter doesn't hold a gear, it means you don't have it > > > tightened enough. What makes the SunTour power ratchet so nice is you > > > get a nice balance between tight enough that it won't lose a gear, but > > > loose enough that it has a light action. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 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