Agreed. But they look pretty raffish; I left them on my errand bike so I can feel like a kid while I shop for my prunes.
________________________________ From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Ray Shine Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 6:43 PM To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Please help me wrap my head around this I have used Jitensha flat bars on one bike and took them off. They are not as wide or as comfy as the Alba bars, IMHO. ________________________________ From: Michael_S <mikeybi...@rocketmail.com> To: RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> Sent: Thu, July 15, 2010 3:40:05 PM Subject: [RBW] Re: Please help me wrap my head around this one other thing, along the lines of Williams comment.. is seat height. Are you leaning over to reach the bars? raising the seat could help reduce wrist pain. There is also the VO Milan and Jitensa flat bars to try in the upright bar category too. ~Mike~ On Jul 15, 3:22 pm, Johnny Alien <johnnyal...@verizon.net<mailto:johnnyal...@verizon.net>> wrote: > Albatross are a very wide bar. The Bullmoose will be swept back > pretty far as well. I would not think a purely straight bar would be > good or comfortable for over 12 miles at a time but I cannot argue > with what you have found. :) > > With that said just find a good Nitto straight bar and dirt drop style > stem. You will need new levers and thumbies as well. I have no > suggestion for bars though. > > On Jul 15, 6:19 pm, d2mini > <d2creat...@gmail.com<mailto:d2creat...@gmail.com>> wrote: > > > > > Thanks, but albatross sweep back way too much, putting my hands/wrists > > in a totally different position. > > I want my hands out in front and almost straight, and wider than my > > shoulders. > > > On Jul 15, 5:14 pm, Johnny Alien > > <johnnyal...@verizon.net<mailto:johnnyal...@verizon.net>> wrote: > > > > By what you said I would immediately suggest Albatross bars. You > > > could keep the stem and bar ends and would only need to replace the > > > brake levers. While they aren't straight I think this would be to > > > your advantage over a long drive because you will get that upright > > > position you want but also more positions that a straight mountain > > > bar. Bullmoose are nice too but would be pricey because you would > > > have to not only buy a bar stem combo but also levers and thumbies. > > > That aside even if it was as cheap I would STILL suggest the Albatross > > > for what you are describing. > > > > On Jul 15, 6:06 pm, William > > > <tapebu...@gmail.com<mailto:tapebu...@gmail.com>> wrote: > > > > > My opinion might not be worth much since I always go for drop bars > > > > first, but here goes. > > > > > If you use drop bars and find you are always on the tops, most likely > > > > your fit setup is wrong. You should be able to comfortably ride on > > > > the hoods, easily get to the drops for speed and power, and sometimes > > > > visit the tops on a seated climb or to enjoy the view. The counter- > > > > intuitive part is when somebody says "I'm reaching too far, I'll slide > > > > my seat forward to fix that". That always makes it worse. Try > > > > sliding it back, and/or tilting it up. Sheldon Brown has an article > > > > describing that better than I would ever hope to. If you've done that > > > > and your mind is made up, give new bars a try. > > > > > I historically have hated straight bars, flat bars, mountain bars, and > > > > yet the Rivendell bullmoose bars are fantastic. I emphatically > > > > encourage you to try them. The Paul thumbies are great, also. You > > > > might need to change out cables and housing, but perhaps not. You'll > > > > need new brakelevers and definitely cables and housing for your > > > > brakes. Leave the bars wide and you may find that you use 4 or 5 > > > > different hand positions. > > > > > Best of luck. > > > > > On Jul 15, 2:47 pm, d2mini > > > > <d2creat...@gmail.com<mailto:d2creat...@gmail.com>> wrote: > > > > > > Hi, sometimes excessive google searching gives me a headache. :P > > > > > > I currently have noodle bars on my homer commuter, 42cm width. My > > > > > commute is about 12.5 miles each way and sometimes they can get a bit > > > > > uncomfortable. I spend all my time on the tops. > > > > > > I also have a specialized mountain bike that I hit the trails with > > > > > during lunch. The trails are pretty insane, all tree roots and stuff. > > > > > We'll do a good mix of the trails and road, usually about 12 miles > > > > > total. > > > > > > Between the two bikes, the flat bars of the mtn bike are drastically > > > > > more comfortable for me. I think it's two things... the hand/wrist > > > > > position and the wide hand position, wider than my shoulders. They > > > > > have a rise and a backward sweep, typical of pretty much every > > > > > production mtn bike these days. So I'm thinking of fitting that style > > > > > bar to my homer and wondering if you guys have any advice on making > > > > > the switch as painless as possible, in terms of what parts to use, > > > > > what needs to be swapped out, etc. I do really like my bar-end > > > > > shifters so if I could use those with thumbies or something that would > > > > > be cool. I would also like to fit a pair of retro looking ergo grips, > > > > > which i assume only come in mtn bike bar diameters? > > > > > > All advice appreciated. > > > > > Thanks!- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com<mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com>. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com<mailto:unsubscr...@googlegroups.com>. 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