UPDATE: I went a short bike the other day. The performance of my shifting was not as crisp as it was initially, unfortunately. (Okay.... I can hear a couple of you in the audience saying, "We told you different."...Okay, I am stubborn. I just wanted to shine in the moment of discovery. ) Therefore, I am in the head scratching corner. I am giving serious thought of changing out the whole cable and replacing it with either Jagwire Elite or Jagwire Pro.
Which one do you think is better for a responsive, sealed and slick cable housing with the cable included for my Clem ? The Elite ? It is easy to install ? I would need approximately 88 inches or 7.33 feet. Would I need zip ties to hold down the cable onto my frame ? Thank you. Kim Hetzel. On Wednesday, December 4, 2024 at 8:33:31 PM UTC-8 Kim H. wrote: > @Steve, > I thank you very much for the suggestion of using Jagwire Aluminum End > Sleeves for Shift & Brake Outer Casings. I appreciate it.. > Where did you find them locally ? at your LBS or ? > Your eBay link is in Germany. I would rather not order overseas. > The Jagwire website has them a jar of 50. I just need four, two for > application and two a spares not 50. > I did find on Amazon the following, of which is practical and would have > extra bits on hand to apply at a later date. > > https://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Shift-Cable-Black-Size/dp/B077F9ZMKF?ref_=ast_sto_dp > > @Will, > I thank you for your suggestion of using Jagwire Elite cable housing. I > will look into that. I will measure first to see if it is long enough for > my Clem. > > @Garth, > I appreciate learning of your resolutions about your old '99 custom > Franklin's grooved-into-the-shell cable guides that were rough and were > chewing up your shift cables. > > @Steve, > I thank you for your praise about my conceiving this particular idea and > sharing with it with this group. I feel satisfied in doing so in my > creative process. > > Kim Hetzel. > > > > > > > On Wednesday, December 4, 2024 at 4:56:11 PM UTC-8 Steve wrote: > >> Playing off of Kim's DIY customization - it occurs to me that a short run >> of leftover shifter housing could take the place of the V-brake noodle if, >> for whatever reason (dirt, wear, perceived drag), there is a desire to >> protect the cable(s) as they pass beneath the BB. I've been fooling >> around with bicycles for 50 some years though, and have not (so far) found >> a pressing need for this sort of mod. >> >> I want to say though that my hat's off to Kim for conceiving the concept, >> nicely executing it, and then sharing it with all of us. I enjoy seeing the >> creative solutions that other riders devise. On occasion I have flagrantly >> copied them. >> >> Steve in AVL >> >> On Wednesday, December 4, 2024 at 4:06:58 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote: >> >>> On my '99 custom Franklin it has a grooved-into-the-shell cable guides >>> which were getting a bit rough and chewing up shift cables. So I used an >>> old portion of a 1.6mm brake cable line as a sort floss to smooth the >>> groove of any roughness. I wanted to thread in a section of slick inner >>> housing, but all I had was leftover parts of brake cable inner liner and it >>> was too large in diameter to fit through guide holes. Not be daunted by >>> that, I found Jawire sells just the derailleur cable slick liner, made for >>> 1.1/1.2mm cables. Threads through the holes like a form fitting glove. I >>> wasn't sure how much to cut, so I let and inch or two on both sides. I put >>> some light grease on the cable in there, but it's stainless cable anyways >>> and it rarely gets wet there in the first place. I can't say I've ever had >>> a corroded cable of any kind ever, even galvanized. My bikes stay indoors. >>> >>> This wasn't a shift performance thing other than from the roughness of >>> the cable sliding over the steel and chewing up cables, and as of this year >>> the cables exhibit no signs of wear under the BB. >>> >>> So if anyone has an older frame with a cable guides grooved in the the >>> BB shell and it's eating cables, give that a go. >>> On Wednesday, December 4, 2024 at 3:30:56 PM UTC-5 George Schick wrote: >>> >>>> Will - wow! I was unaware of that Jagwire cable housing kit. It's a >>>> bit pricy, though. What I have been doing is buy a couple feet of Shimano >>>> compatible index shift cable housing (usually Jagwire) from an LBS, split >>>> the housing with a utility knife along the length of the cable, remove the >>>> wires, and use small lengths of the plastic inner guide to run the shift >>>> cables across the BB shell. It works great, but they eventually wear and >>>> split and require replacement every so often. >>>> George >>>> >>>> On Wednesday, December 4, 2024 at 2:20:41 PM UTC-6 wboe...@gmail.com >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> You need Jagwire's Elite housing set >>>>> <https://www.treefortbikes.com/Jagwire-Elite-Sealed-Shift-Cable-Kit-SRAM-Shimano-Ultra-Slick?srsltid=AfmBOorlU7OVf312X9YyrnyliHLVX58UHtGMGN7j6wkiOdVkuMQzLfXB-vU>. >>>>> >>>>> Liner runs all the way from shifter to derailleur, no exposed cable. >>>>> Never >>>>> replace your cables again. I'm not positive it's long enough for Rivs, >>>>> however. I've had a set on a mountain bike for 5+years with no issues. >>>>> >>>>> Will >>>>> >>>>> On Wednesday, December 4, 2024 at 2:38:00 PM UTC-5 Steve wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Kim, if you're concerned about water finding its way into your guide >>>>>> (as Benz pots out) you could pick up a couple Jagwire housing caps as >>>>>> pictured below. They should do the trick. I've been using them for >>>>>> several >>>>>> years and am pleased with their performance. >>>>>> --- If you decide to give them a try you might want to thread the >>>>>> cable through the end caps and noodle before you actually press fit the >>>>>> caps into place - just to make it easier. >>>>>> >>>>>> [image: Lined Alloy End Caps] >>>>>> >>>>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/395831788718?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&com_cvv=8fb3d522dc163aeadb66e08cd7450cbbdddc64c6cf2e8891f6d48747c6d56d2c >>>>>> >>>>>> On Wednesday, December 4, 2024 at 1:53:23 PM UTC-5 Kim H. wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> @ Benz, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Respectively, I appreciate your insights and opinions to my custom >>>>>>> steel >>>>>>> BB cable guide. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> However, I remain in high thought concerning my steel BB cable guide >>>>>>> that it does elevates the cable higher off of the BB as well as above >>>>>>> the >>>>>>> chain stay. IMHO, I foresee that there is less friction or dray on the >>>>>>> original plastic cable guide. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I will inject grease into the cable guide to protect water entry. >>>>>>> Otherwise, it works for me. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Kim Hetzel who use to live on Bernardo Avenue in Sunnyvale, >>>>>>> California as a child. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Tuesday, December 3, 2024 at 9:13:08 PM UTC-8 Benz Ouyang, >>>>>>> Sunnyvale, CA wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Sorry but I'm going to rain on your parade a bit by being skeptical >>>>>>>> about the improvements you claimed. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> There is very little friction from the bend at the bottom of the BB >>>>>>>> shell, particularly when a plastic guide is involved – the contact is >>>>>>>> short >>>>>>>> and (more importantly) the tension of the shift cable is light. Most >>>>>>>> of the >>>>>>>> friction will be from the significantly longer runs of housing from >>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>> barend shifter to the cable stop, and from the cable stop to the >>>>>>>> derailleur. Anyone with downtube friction shifters that are set too >>>>>>>> light >>>>>>>> will attest to almost frictionless shifting with all the tactile >>>>>>>> feedback >>>>>>>> coming from the derailleur return spring, particularly with the front >>>>>>>> derailleur (that actually wraps more degrees around the plastic BB >>>>>>>> shell >>>>>>>> guide). >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I suspect by having to thread the shifter cable through your >>>>>>>> contraption, you've also cleaned up at least the derailleur-side of >>>>>>>> the run >>>>>>>> and refined the cable adjustment, leading to most of the improvement >>>>>>>> you >>>>>>>> observed. In addition, while the newer Rivendells have longer chain >>>>>>>> stays >>>>>>>> necessitating longer cable runs, the extra length is *unhoused*, >>>>>>>> meaning there should be no additional friction compared to bikes with >>>>>>>> "normal" chain stay lengths. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Last but not least, the BB shell is at the lowest point of the >>>>>>>> cable run. Water ingested into the custom tube guide won't be able to >>>>>>>> evaporate away quickly. Even if you use stainless cable and tubing, >>>>>>>> there's >>>>>>>> still pooling, which shouldn't happen with a well-maintained bike. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Tuesday, December 3, 2024 at 1:47:27 PM UTC-8 krhe...@gmail.com >>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Upon owning a Rivendell Clem Smith Jr. "L" bicycle, I have very >>>>>>>>> long chain stays. This has given me to thought of how can I increase >>>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>> speed of shifting by reducing the friction and slack times for better >>>>>>>>> shifting through the BB cable guide for my right indexed Shimano >>>>>>>>> Dura-Ace SL-BS77 bar end shifter. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> I came up with an idea. I took a curved V brake noodle. I removed >>>>>>>>> both end pieces and the plastic sleeve from inside. I measured the >>>>>>>>> appropriate length to cut it. I took a Dremel tool and bit. I >>>>>>>>> carefully >>>>>>>>> carved a wider channel on the plastic BB guide to accommodate the >>>>>>>>> steel >>>>>>>>> tube. I repeatedly kept bending the piece of tubing to the right >>>>>>>>> angle for >>>>>>>>> the best passage of the rear derailleur cable. I returned the plastic >>>>>>>>> sleeve to the steel tube and cut it to a shorter length. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Once that was done, I placed two plastic cable housing caps on >>>>>>>>> either end. I used Gorilla Clear Maximum Strength Construction >>>>>>>>> Adhesive to >>>>>>>>> glue down the steel tube onto the BB guide. Let it set for 24 hours. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Upon my return, I threaded the rear derailleur cable through the >>>>>>>>> new tube and pulled out the slack in the Shimano RD M531 long caged >>>>>>>>> rear >>>>>>>>> derailleur and tighten the anchoring bolt. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> My test ride results are as follows: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> The report on the custom BB steel cable guide I made, there was a >>>>>>>>> significant improvement in shifting up into the lower gears, whilst >>>>>>>>> shifting back down into the higher gears, there was a slight delay. >>>>>>>>> With >>>>>>>>> such a long rear derailleur cable, I believe this is going to be >>>>>>>>> expected. >>>>>>>>> I am happy to say that there was no "ghost shifting " whatsoever. >>>>>>>>> YAY! All >>>>>>>>> the slack in the cable was pulled out. (I had prior issues with >>>>>>>>> 'ghost >>>>>>>>> shifting". I was unaware of the rear derailleur cable as loose and >>>>>>>>> needed >>>>>>>>> fixing.) >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> No grease nor oil has been applied inside the plastic sleeve of >>>>>>>>> the tube at this time. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Overall, I feel my custom BB steel cable guide has been an >>>>>>>>> improvement over what was before. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Yes, I do have a lot of helicopter tape on my frameset. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Kim Hetzel, who loves to tinker. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> [image: 20241123_213949.jpg] >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> [image: 20241128_060401.jpg] >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/bdc7ef1d-a22a-43f0-97c0-d0f88c188b55n%40googlegroups.com.
