My new thoughts on my particular iteration of the OP are that it might be 
the stem flexing in the steerer tube. While I did use a shim with my 
Bosco/Technomic 26mm x 100 stem, I don't recall any clicking. The noise was 
quite pronounced when I switched to a Tosco/Tallux 25.4 x 110. I could see 
a subtle movement at the junction of stem and headset (and thought it a 
loose headset - it wasn't). When I lazily re-inserted my stem after it was 
out, and left it sitting at least an inch higher (or more) than usual, the 
clicking was gone. The stem now sits with the maximum height marker about 
1" down from the top of the headset, before now it was at least twice that. 
Once I got used to the flex in the system of long quill stems and long bars 
I like it. But perhaps that flex they have means the deeper the quill 
inserted, the greater the chance of the stem knocking against the headset. 

On Friday, October 4, 2024 at 5:49:58 PM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Friday, October 4, 2024 at 4:43:09 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
> He found that the headset was loose, so he tightened that too (and mashed 
> the headset cup or spacer or whatever in the process). 
>
>
> It's worth noting that, while the frames ship with headsets, they aren't 
> installed. Despite trying to be careful about installation, I have found on 
> all three of my Sams that the FSA headsets seem to loosen up pretty quickly 
> after initial installation, and the linear bearings seem to want the 
> adjustable surface to be pretty tight, tighter than normal ball bearing 
> headsets. 
>
> That said, I wouldn't describe the sound of a loose headset as "ticking", 
> it's more like "clunking" and is readily felt and seen by applying the 
> front brake and pushing the bike forward and back.
>
> And I would be irate if a shop mechanic handed back my bike with a mangled 
> part. My headset locknuts are bit scuffed but I only have myself to blame 
> :-)
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA
>

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