You've validated many of your specs, most not being of the path of least 
resistance monetarily. You had to pause and consider each of those. 

On one of my favorite 80 mile rides knowing the route lets me carry less 
water and make it a point to stop and refill where I know I can. An extra 
28 ounces is almost 2 pounds. The stops also break up the terminal grind 
that sets in on long pulls between breaks. Those grinds get a steeper 
decline as the day goes on. Blame it on the effort required to move you, 
your bike and its load across the terrain or yourself for being less 
genetically like one of the noteworthy pros. I ride for fun and 
exhilaration of being outside, it keeps me fit. No one goes to the gym and 
brags about how little they lift in the rep sets.  

I'm no randonneur and never raced so I can go about my riding without 
worrying that my bike is too heavy. I stayed with the lead bunch on a group 
ride Tuesday, my Rambouillet was no excuse for how I felt afterward. I was 
the performance limitation despite the commentary by those who now do not 
even have memory of metal framed bikes and think of them as antiquities. Two 
Spaniards here for school were particularly surprised by my bike. The one 
from Girona needed more gears (or legs) on his Colnago for the hot and 
humid climbing, the one from Barcelona ate his superbike's rear derailleur 
trying to shift on the steepest climb bending it and his dropout, tangling 
in his (eight?) DS spokes. 

Carefully selected tools may best do a particular job but are also the 
least used because their specificity has little tolerance for widened use, 
often with costly consequences. I went light on my rear wheel hub for my 
custom 650B the other year with a Suzue Classica high flange (2 pawl) 
cassette hub. The aluminum cassette body has become chewed by the cogs by 
my riding, loads and hills, now creaking annoyingly when pedal load is 
reduced, every stroke. It's the only adventitious sound on my bike and 
impetus for getting a Silver cassette hub with six pawls and a steel body 
built on a matching rim by Rich at RWB which just arrived and is lovely. 

I have a 3/4" rabbet plane (blade goes edge to edge across the width of its 
open sided block). I got it to level the door stop on several very large 
doors I had made pre-hung (with three sides of jamb and installed stop). 
The installed stop didn't have consistent contact with the closed door due 
to the nature of wood, it got some waviness when drying after milling that 
prevents evenly seating against them when closed. The plane let me address 
the issue of the high spots effectively and directly as a cost, labor and 
material conservative option. An unbelievably effective tool that I have 
used very little since then, its cost more than justified,  but there it 
sits. I don't have the room for bikes of that sort of specificity. 

Ride. What you've got.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Wednesday, July 24, 2024 at 7:40:12 PM UTC-4 Bob Warner wrote:

> Would be grateful for reasonable/cost conscious suggestions for how to 
> shed some weight from my Sam; which is currently is weighing in at 31.3# 
> with the following configuration:
>
>    - Velocity Dyad 36 / Ultegra 6500 rear with Ultegra 6700 12-30 
>    cassette; Velocity Dyad 32 with SP Dynamo & BM IQ-X
>    - Nitto 135mm Faceplater stem + Nitto Billie Bars; Newbaums & Oury 
>    grips
>    - Sugino XD-2 crank
>    - Paul Racer brakes & Paul Levers
>    - Brooks B17 Special
>    - Nitto S-83 seatpost
>    - IRD QB-95 BB
>    - Shimano 105 5701 long cage RD
>    - Shimano 6500 FD
>    - Tubus rear rack, Nitto M18 front rack
>    - Blackburn SS cages
>    - Berthoud SS fenders & RH Barlow Pass tires
>
> I went on my first overnight bike tour and boy was my rig heavy. It was a 
> big adjustment for me pushing all that weight for 80 miles!!  My camping 
> gear is pretty lightweight stuff for backpacking, so curious if there are 
> any reasonable priced alternatives to lighten up the bike.  Many thanks in 
> advance!!  ~Bob
> [image: SamH.jpeg]
>  
>

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