A cork works great, but so does just about anything you can slip over
a screw. I took an artsy approach using resin beads and a funky coin
from Belize as a washer. The basic thing I learned was that whatever
you use, if you counterbore and spin a nut up so it sits on the
topside of the fender as well as underneath, it's quite rigid. Here's
a link to my flickr pics. They're a couple of years old and it's still
working great. No noise or rattling. btw... a key thing for me with
the metal Honlos was the leather washers available at V-O (or you
could easily fabricate some). Finally, I cut the domed bottom out of a
beer can (drink beer first) and drilled a hole in it and it made a
nice curved washer that sits up under the fender. Here's the link.
There are several pics. Gets lots of comments.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/26804...@n02/2596325836/in/set-72157605719324834/


On May 12, 8:08 pm, Frankwurst <fbr...@jwperry.com> wrote:
> Go to your local hardware store (provided they have a good nut,bolt
> and fastener supply) and you can find aluminum sleeves that will fit
> your needs along with the bolts ( button head ) in the proper length
> to make them work. Or just drill a hole in a cork (wine that is) and
> get a bolt that will fit. Do all modifications to the cork before
> drinking the wine.
>
> On May 12, 6:53 pm, Johnny Alien <johnnyal...@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> > So I installed some SKS fenders on my wife's bike and you know the
> > rear fender how it attaches to the bike near the kickstand bottom
> > bracket area?  Well in cases where it creates a big gap between the
> > fender and the tire is there any type of spacer that can be purchased
> > to go between the fender and where it attaches so that it doesn't look
> > awful?  The rest of the fender looks fine and then there is that big
> > gap at that point.
>
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