Leah, I guess lighten up applies in a couple ways and I confess to just seeing this thread this morning so a little late to the party.
Some good suggestions here. I am sure the new wheels will be epic. Maybe I missed it, but what did you end up getting? The Clem is heavy, but you don't have many places to save weight outside of the aforementioned wheels/tires, especially when you consider that certain components are not negotiable (like the seat) That said, weight that serves no function and can be permanently removed will be a long term benefit. My Clementine was built up from a frame so I naturally built it up with lighter weight parts. Aside from the wheels/tires the thing I would look at is the seatpost. I know the Clem is a different diameter, but the seat post that came with my Clementine was a boat anchor AND really long. I got as light a post as I could and then chopped about 4 or 5 inches of the excess length off. You could lose close to half a pound this way! Listening to your comments it seems you might not fully understand: A) Dynamos & B) 1X gearing setups (that's cool, we're all learning) Dynamo fitment is strictly a function of matching the number of spoke holes in the hub to the number of spoke holes in the rim. If you've got 32 hole rims all you need is a 32 hole hub. Simple. Many times if I am building a budget bike I'll buy budget wheels off the interwebs, a Dynamo hub and replace the front hub myself. Regarding, 1X going to 1X won't really have a big effect on your ability to climb big hills. The biggest thing you will notice is you NEVER have to worry about "trimming" the front derailleur to stop it from rubbing. There are rare exceptions, but I pretty much only build 1x bikes now. Because Rivendells are pretty much standard 135mm spacing it does sort of limit you to a maximum of 10 gears, but that's probably equivalent to what you had with a 2X or 3X set up you might have had before. Those result in a lot of ratios that are basically duplicates anywayz. Regarding tubeless, well things do get a bit more fuzzy with tubeless, but as I am assuming you don't change your own flats, it'll only be a plus for you. I've been converting to tubeless over the last few months for several reasons: A) Most new tires are made to be run tubeless. B) Most new rims are optimized for tubeless (this is especially true of carbon rims, noting that's a nonstarter on a Rivendell) C) Unless you are running a shallow box section rim 650b tubes with a long enough valve stem are almost non-existent. Even if you can find a tube, mounting it can be next to impossible. Mounting tubeless is part magic and part technique & some mount easier than others, but by the 4th or 5th one I had it figured out & with all the cacti in you neck of the woods I think you would definitely benefit from the light weight & ability to run lower pressure. I only recommend tubeless for bikes that will be ridden constantly & not sit for long periods of time or for people the swap tires a lot. Lightweight wheels with tubeless tires & dynamo hubs!? You won't likely believe how good it'll be! 😉 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/3a2a90bc-e11e-42c2-bdda-b3691d4cc6c5%40googlegroups.com.
