Reading this thread makes me remember all that led up to my current setup, 
most of the same steps and problems. *Unlike *you (I suspect) I'm quite 
heavy (6'0" 260 lbs, though I started riding closer to 290). *Like* you I 
tried different seats and seatposts for my dropbar Sam and Bosco bar 
Cheviot:

Saddles:

   - Brooks B67 --> modified to add a cutout and shoe laces between the 
   sides to make an imitation "imperial" 
   - Brooks Flyer Imperial ... essentially a sprung version of my next 
   saddle the C19
   - Ergon SFC3-L Gel 
   
<https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSLM01Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1>
   - Brooks C19 
   - Sella Anatomica H2

Seatposts:

   - Nitto S-65 23mm setback
   - Velo Orange Grand Cru Long Setback MKII: 30.2mm setback 
   
<https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B014994Y3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1>
   - Nitto S-84 37mm setback


I ended up needing some extra setback while on the Sam, but I'd always used 
all the setback I could so when I installed the seat on the S84 it was 
actually *too far back*. Never had the problem before, figured the tilt was 
off as it was painful in the front contact point (when I didn't have enough 
setback it was painful on the rear contact points / sit bones). Now with 
the C19 or the Flyer (nearly the exact same width) positions in the middle 
of hte seat rails I'm *very* comfy. Until I moved it forward a bit (rather 
than using all the setback the rails and S84 would allow) I was worried I'd 
never get it right. 

Based on my own mistakes, I'd suggest going back to the start and working 
through the usual steps of fitting the seat height, seat position 
forward/back, bars and seat level:

   1. Correct PBH measurement and seat height? Check again.
   2. Is your knee over the pedal (KOPS *is *flawed but an okay start point 
   <https://www.sheldonbrown.com/kops.html>) axle at 3:00 position? It's a 
   rough estimate of how far forward/back your seat should be, rarely ideal 
   but often close. Finally having enough setback available but using too much 
   of it was where I went wrong myself.
   3. Positioning the bars where you want them and assuming your stem 
   length is about right, adjust the saddle level to match the bars for 
   comfort. I've found that to mean pointing almost at the stem clamp: if the 
   bars are above the seat, tilt up a little but not quite pointing at the 
   stem clamp. If the bars are below the seat, tilt the seat to about level, 
   maybe slightly downward in front ... not a common Riv position though.
   4. Still feels wrong? Different stem length, different bar width, 
   different crank arm length, build up your core/glutes, acupuncture ... at 
   that point consult a professional for a fit?

Good luck on the fit adventure, it's worth it when you get dialed in. All 
advise taking with large rocks of salt please. 
Abe

On Monday, May 6, 2019 at 10:49:14 AM UTC-7, masmojo wrote:
>
> It's a delicate dance; regarding the fore/aft adjustment of the saddle, I 
> wouldn't monkey with it too much, your knees should be properly positioned 
> in relation to the pedals/spindles and that's it. With that set you can 
> analyze handlebar position. I didn't see what size frame you are messing 
> with, but on my 53 Toyo Atlantis & medium Clementine I run 100mm Technomic 
> stems. So 110mm doesn't sound surprising. 
> Yes, the Brooks is going to take considerable breaking in, but should work 
> fine assuming you don't have a very broad frame or are extremely upright, 
> although I run B17s on a couple BMX cruisers that I sit very upright on, 
> with no issues. I might suggest playing with stem height; a centimeter up 
> or down can make a big difference. I don't think the Selle will solve your 
> dilemma. Possibly a c-17 all weather carved or a C-19 carved. I  personally 
> found the regular C-19 to be overly stiff and uncomfortable over longer 
> distances.

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