Your idea would probably work. I do prefer at least the idea of a half fender in front -- I think I measured my best length at about 14" behind fork crown -- and supported by a strut either from 3/4-way toward the trailing end to bosses mid-fork-leg, or else run the struts from the leading edge of the fender to ditto. You'd get at least some protection from spray as the wheel turned off the directly-ahead position.
I have thought of a dt-mounted splash guard that is just wide enough to cover the chainrings but narrow enough not to hit the inside of the crank arms; again, a bit more protection from spray when you turn the wheel. (I haven't actually tried this bit, though; my last several dt guards were just the wideth of 60 or 65 mm fenders.) On the rear, I had the Matthews built with a rear rack with boss at end for the 3d rear fender bolt, but I've been using the bike sans racks; the Carradice Super C Slim bag, though, does serve as a splash guard to supplement the bit of fender running from chainstay bridge to st bridge. In the past I've simply cut the rear fender to protrude just aft of a Carradice saddlebag, and that seems to keep the crud off both bag and saddle. *Now* I just need to find fenders that are at least 65 mm wide, made for 700C wheels, and that have a more shallow profile than the PB, SKS, VO, Honjo, or Bluemels that I've seen so far -- the PB Cascadia, for example, crowds the 60+ mm Big One rear tire too much. On Fri, Sep 21, 2018 at 1:40 PM, Mat Grewe <matgr...@gmail.com> wrote: > Patrick: Your system is pretty close to what I was thinking. For the > record I have not tried my fender ideas, but thought through them after > seeing a few different folks' methods. > > The rear fender would be about the same, but ideally attached to a rack of > some kind as that tubing is significantly harder to bend than any fender > stay I have used. I'm curious, what length did you find works best for > that rear extension? > > The front would vary just a little. I was thinking of having a thin, > rolled edge aluminum (looks nicer than plastic and the rolled edge would > reduce cutting myself) downtube mudguard running the full length of the > downtube. Then a chain-guard covering the front half of the chainrings > only, not interfering with a derailleur. This would protect the chainring > against schmoo thrown up from the front tire. Then, if necessary to > protect a light, a front fender only protruding out in front of the fork, > perhaps a little behind to protect the bottom of the headset as well. But > that way there are no stays on the front wheel to buckle and potentially > cause a crash. > > Again, all theory... > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
