Thanks for the summary. You do make it sound simple. Makes me wonder
why none of the owners who have them have ever had any idea how to go
about adjusting one.
On 07/24/2018 03:07 PM, Jeremy Till wrote:
Hey Steve, it's really simple to adjust a threadless headset:
1. Loosen clamping bolts on the stem.
2. Tighten the bolt in the top cap just enough that no play can be
discerned via the usual headset adjustment check (locking front brake,
rocking the bike against the fork). If the headset is too tight,
loosen until there is play and re-tighten appropriately.
3. Check that stem is aligned with front wheel
4. Tighten clamping bolts on the stem.
I then usually double check that the headset is rotating freely by
lifting the bike with the rear end elevated and making sure the fork
returns to center when turned to either side, but i would do that for
either a threaded or threadless headset.
In general I wouldn't say that either threaded or threadless headsets
are inherently easier or harder to understand or adjust; it's just a
matter of educating yourself on the procedures either way.
On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 10:24:15 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
Actually, a threaded headset's adjustment is quite easy to
understand.
It's obvious, really: there are nuts that are clearly meant to be
tightened or loosened. Threadless is another story: there's no
visible
means of support, other than maybe mash down hard on the stem and
then
clamp it down, but that hardly seems to make any sense, and if
that was
how it was supposed to work it couldn't possibly be very accurate.
But my point is simply that for all the talk about how simple it is,
I've yet to find anybody on a ride who knew how to adjust one even
though they all had them and they all had the tools. (And no, I
have no
idea how to do it. I can do a fair job with a threaded headset,
though.)
And I should add, the only bike I ever had that had an issue with the
threaded headset loosening turned out to be a problem with the
washers
not being thick enough. Once that was fixed, no further
problems. Of
course I don't ride MTB.
On 07/24/2018 12:37 PM, masmojo wrote:
> Grant, yes that's the technique I use (learned working in a bike
shop 37 years ago), but no matter, eventually they come loose.
Steel headsets tend to stay in place better, fewer problems with
loosening, but they're heavy. Aluminum on the other hand comes
loose no matter. I discover mine is loose typically on washboard
surfaces when I'm miles from home.
>
> Steve, thing is people who can't adjust a threadless headset are
going to have a hard time wrapping their head around a threaded
headset/quill stem as well.
--
Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.