Well, I had the same problem with an old '71 Fuji frame onto which I wanted to mount Ritchey BioMax bars. The bend in the bars is so sharp that a quill stem would not go around them without spreading the quill opening with a pry bar, which could lead to a catastrophic failure of the aluminum stem. So I used a regular threadless stem along with an adapter, but I added the right size spacer between the adjusting nut and the lock nut at the top of the headset. It doesn't look t-o-o-o-oo bad that way. Here's a pic:
<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GTYh2Sy2Co0/WmOSJjcLoOI/AAAAAAAAAGA/t6FTa58waLAurnbWNVg9UgYaGRu8Jn8zQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCN0360.JPG> On Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 12:44:20 PM UTC-6, Bob K. wrote: > > I am exploring moving on from my Sam, but I want to give a drop bar setup > the ol’ college try before I do. I like the Salsa Cowbell 2 bar, but it’s > only available in 31.8 clamp diameter, and I don’t want to pay the $80 > premium for the VO quill stem with removable face plate to match it. > > And so, I’m considering the dreaded quill-to-threadless conversion route. > I find them to be highly ugly. I’m wondering, though, if anyone has a > method I could use to mitigate the ug-factor. AKA is there a way to cover > up the skinny part of the converter stem below the threadless stem’s base? > > If this makes any sense whatsoever, I would welcome any/all ideas. After > all, I can’t have my Sam looking weird. > > Bob K. in Baltimore -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
