Thanks Ed, much appreciated.  When I lived in Denver, finding M4/M5/M6 
bolts, especially stainless, were fairly easy to find.  That is not 
necessarily true now that I live in a smaller midwest town.  I thought the 
other day that my bike building days will end, not when I run out of parts, 
but when I run out of bolts, screws and spacers!

I think the Appaloosa will start off without fenders, with the idea of 
exploring local dirt and gravel roads, but there is more rain here than in 
Colorado so fenders may come later.  Part of that answer will be decided by 
what size tires feel right on the bike.

Thanks for the help and the experience with the mount points.

Bob

   

On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 4:51:01 PM UTC-5, Ed Carolipio wrote:
>
> For a canti build, someone mentioned the hangers already but I found I 
> needed to adjust the headset spacers (1" silver, 2.5mm or 5mm thick, having 
> a handful is nice) to accommodate the front hanger since I ran out of fork 
> using the spacer included with the frame. I also snapped the seat post bolt 
> troubleshooting slippage so I recommend having some spare M6x25mm bolts 
> (20mm may be long enough) with matching lock nuts handy.
>
> There are three potential mount points for the rear rack: two are M6 (as 
> others have pointed out), with the third, rearmost one as M5. Most folks 
> run a fender on the M5 mount, but I won't judge you if you rebel against 
> convention. Of the two M6 mount points, if you choose the dropout one, I 
> suggest getting in the fenders in at the same time: the two mount points 
> are close enough that there may be minor gymnastics involved to get all of 
> that to work together. I opted for the seat stay mount, and that has worked 
> well for me and my commuter bags/panniers plus no issues with heel strike.
>
> Note that "thick washer/spacer" (I think they're 2.5mm) which Riv sells 
> are for M5 bolts, so I couldn't use them to space out the rear rack whilst 
> opting for the M6 mounts.
>
>

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