Nope. You must've missed my comment. Phil wood bearings are for sunny California. My Phil BB and hub bearings never last more than a winter. They are not suitable for cold and wet climates. And don't get me started on their free hubs hah
> On May 2, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Brian Campbell <bdcampbel...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Phil Wood! ;-) > >> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:27:48 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote: >> Haha! I'm terribly curious how you'll determine who qualifies as a "newbie >> with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with this kind of BB." >> >> You know, up till this moment I had zero interest in cup and cone bb's, and >> never would imagine considering going back to one. maybe that's because I'm >> not aware of a quality option out there. But given the fact that my >> environment destroys bearings in every BB I've tried, including Phil Wood, >> within a season, maybe a cup and cone would be exactly what I need. >> Self-serviceable with nothing but a couple special wrenches and a tube of >> grease. Hmmm.... >> >> Say Grant - who will be manufacturing these BB's? >> >>> On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:32:07 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote: >>> BB spindle length: >>> >>> It's always safe and usually best to use the bb the crank maker recommends, >>> or (more to the point) a dimensional equivalent. I'm not going to address >>> taper here, just quick notes about length. It comes down to chainline, >>> which has nothing to do with the chain. Almost everything anybody could >>> possibly say about CL has already been said by Sheldon on his site, but I >>> don't remember whether he addressed derailers there, so I will fast here. >>> Chainline is how far out from the center of the seat tube the middle ring >>> on a triple sits, or the midpoint between two rings on a double sits. >>> >>> There are two common chainlines, I mean three: >>> >>> 43 or 43.5mm (I forget)--for road doubles >>> 47.5mm -- for road triples and hybrid-like bikes. >>> 50.5 or 51(I forget) -- for mtn bikes >>> >>> "For" means "typical," not "the only way." >>> But what it means is that mtn bike front derailers can reach farther out >>> and can't drag in as close as road front derailers. >>> >>> Example: If you put a Sugino or Silver crank on a 110mm bb spindle, the >>> chainline will be 47.5, and an XT or any other mtn front derailer will be >>> able to shift to the big ring, but not to the small one. To fix that, you >>> put a 113mm bb spindle, which changes the CL from 47.5 to 50.5, and it all >>> works. >>> >>> There is no perfect correlation bwt Q-Factor and CL. In general, mtn cranks >>> are for bow-legged cowboys and they have high Q's, but it's easy to design >>> and make great mtn cranks with mtn bike CLs and low-Q's (under 163?). The >>> mtn crank makers don't generally do that, though, because then their cranks >>> won't fit onto lots of expensive and prestigious bikes that have chainstays >>> that stick out too far in the wrong spots and so require higher Q-Factors. >>> >>> This doesn't address durability, but it's rare to hear of $40 bb's crapping >>> out. Not unheard of, but it's not unheard of at any price, either. We are >>> going to stock an ol' cup-and-cone style BB in ass't lengths sometime this >>> year. It will cost more and we'll refuse to sell it to -- how do I best say >>> this? -- a "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with >>> this kind of BB." We certainly won't quit selling the $40 Shimano bbs, >>> which are so good. What we will do, when it all happens, is extol the >>> theoretical virtues of the old kind...which, given the reliabiliy of the >>> new kind, are undeniable, but may not matter. >>> G >>> >>>> On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:27:49 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote: >>>> Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you gain? >>>> Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain (ie, does >>>> it roll smoother, faster, etc)? >>>> >>>> I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and headset. >>>> About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple (with a >>>> 107 or 110 bb) to a White Industries Eno (with a 113 bb). Trying to figure >>>> out if I go w/ the $40 bb on Riv's site? Or a White Industries or >>>> something similar? This bike will see 500-1000 miles a year on dirt and >>>> some mud. And support the occasional overnighter. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google > Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this topic, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/uQgg6v9B0tk/unsubscribe. > To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. 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