Thanks, Steve. I get the theory behind the better, but as I said, I've never experienced shifting or rattling caused by the seat stay attachment. This includes plastic SKS, old Bluemels, and newer VO metal fenders. Maybe I've been lucky, but I'm also not sure how much play can develop at the mid point if both the fore (chainstay) and aft (drop-out braze-on) attachment points are secure, and the bracket is pinched well. I do understand that the other way may offer a cleaner, more integrated look for high end machines, and I know what you mean that the situation has improved--my newer model VO fenders are easier to set up than the first iterations. (In fact I did find one of my bicycles with a similar attachment, though these fenders were OEM. My not terribly high end Raleigh Twenty.) And finally, if you are going to design a "fancy" constructeur-style attachment for the rear, why not include the fork crown eye bolt, which is not to be found on the Clem (which has plenty of other braze-ons, so I doubt it is a matter of cutting corners)?
<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MZbb3oJY_To/VoK53pD8uFI/AAAAAAAAFvg/Z0vANzlpk3I/s1600/DSC01170.JPG> On Tuesday, December 29, 2015 at 9:57:33 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 12/29/2015 09:34 AM, 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch wrote: It may be vastly better, but I have to report never having had an issue with the bracket style mount. Nevertheless, since I do not have that option, I seek advice. What type of bolt head do people use so as to create the least protrusion in the middle of the inside of the fender? Something like this is nice: Leather washer goes between outside of fender and seat stay. Pudge, what did you use for the Clementine above? Did you use a leather washer between the fender and what looks like a long aluminum spacer? (The other nice thing about the bracket besides no protruding hardware inside the fender is it gives you a bit of latitude in adjusting the fender line at this contact point, both laterally and vertically. With the vastly better option, you need to figure it out and measure twice, cut once.) You have to attach a bracket to the fender, and either you bolt the bracket to the fender, in which case the hardware to do that protrudes inside the fender, or you clamp it around the edges and no matter how tightly you do that it can (and as these things go, if it can it will) move over time, giving rise to rattles and changing the fender line. What's more, a bracket can't be as solid a mount as directly screwing it into the seat stay bridge or to an eye bolt inside the fork crown. That, plus the fact that it looks much better without brackets, is why "vastly better." As for "figure it out and measure it twice," that is how it is with metal fenders. It's much easier now than it was 10 years ago, since most metal fenders of this type now come pre-drilled for the stays. Back in the day, they never did, and you had to mount, mark, remove, drill, reinstall, mark, remove, drill, reinstall etc., several times. Even with brackets, to a large extent this is still the way it is. You can't do all your measuring at one time, because once you mount the first mount things change. It's a Zen kind of thing that requires patience and zero sense of urgency: it will take however long it takes, and it cannot be hurried. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
