Tim, that looks much better than using a P-clamp. The chainstay bridge is not drilled on my Custom so I have to use a P-Clamp but it moves a lot and I have to fiddle with it sometimes on rides to reset the fender clearance.
On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 10:24 AM, Tim Gavin <[email protected]> wrote: > The Tubus p-clamps are stainless. (#3 on Wayne's page > <http://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS/Fit%20Solutions/FIT%20SOLUTIONS%20PAGE.htm>). > Their 2-bolt design is far superior; you separately secure the clamp to the > bike, and the rack to the clamp. > > I added rubber and tape shims to protect the stays. > > I've had the plasti-dip crack off the cheaper clamps. > > On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 9:57 AM, Jim Bronson <[email protected]> > wrote: > >> The hardware store P-clamps will rust. Are the higher end ones stainless >> steel? >> >> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
