Guess I'm lucky and/or not discerning, since I'm pretty satisfied with how my Raid brake is working. Mildly curious, what was your stopping distance with with Shimano medium-reach brakes on your Rambouillet?
On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 9:21:45 AM UTC-7, NickBull wrote: > > After a couple of years of trying to get my Raid brakes with arches and > Kool Stop red pads to 1) not squeal intermittently, and 2) brake > effectively, I finally gave up and bought a new fork for which I could > mount cantilever brakes. The final straw was a comparison test that I did > on a gentle hill near where I live, where I rode several bikes at a > constant 20mph speed toward a particularly noticeable crack crossing the > road and then did a panic stop at that point. The stopping distance was > best for the Shimano medium-reach brakes that came on my Rambouillet, and > only slightly worse for Dia Compe 600's and for Tektro CR720's and R559's. > For the Raid's it was a good ten feet of additional stopping distance. > Note that on my Raid brakes, in order for them to contact the rim at the > correct angle, the pad-holders were slammed as far down as possible in the > slots, creating the longest possible lever arm. That may be why I had so > much difficulty getting these adjusted for acceptable braking distances. > Bolt-on Raid's would probably (but not definitely) have solved the problem, > so I had to make a hard choice between having Waterford build up a > cantilever fork or one with Mafac braze-ons. Since they had no experience > with the latter, I was not all that confident that they'd get it right, and > since my Raid's were bought used and have some noticeable wear, I decided > that the millions of people riding on cantilever brakes (including me on my > Burley tandem and Soma Grand Randonneur) are probably not making too big of > a mistake, and I joined them. > > Nick > > On Saturday, March 7, 2015 at 11:04:48 PM UTC-5, ted wrote: >> >> Minor update. >> This morning I took a little time and got the toe in down to something >> approaching the amount I typically find works well on other brakes I have >> set up. >> Rode up hill and down dale after that. The raid worked just fine. Lever >> travel is about what I like. No squealing (except one or two modest very >> low speed chirps). Braking power seemed fine to me. Controlled speed and >> stopped the bike just fine. >> One caveat, I don't think I am a particularly demanding brake user. I've >> got no complaints about how the CR720s and R559s I have used perform. I >> gather some find those under powered and can't stand em, so as usual YMMV. >> >> On Saturday, March 7, 2015 at 7:53:45 AM UTC-8, A. L Young wrote: >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 6:19 PM, ted <ted....@comcast.net> wrote: >>> >>>> It's a bit lost in the mists of time, but I think I bought the aero >>>> levers to replace older non aero levers, and that they seemed the same >>>> (except for being "aero"). Do you know when levers started having more >>>> mechanical advantage? Was that a Mafac versus others differentiator? >>> >>> >>> My understanding is that the more modern aero levers have more >>> mechanical advantage than the older non-aero style due to the position of >>> the pivot in the handle and direction of cable pull. I've used both types >>> and when set up correctly had no complaints about braking, so maybe the >>> mechanical-advantage advantage isn't the biggest issue. >>> >>> Aaron Young >>> The Dalles, OR >>> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
