Mitch: Thanks for the comments. Our bearing adjustment procedures are similar. Next time I take mine apart I'll see about drilling a small hole in the center of the body as a grease port. The plastic end cap is probably not good for too many removals.
dougP On Sep 27, 9:45 pm, MitchK <mi...@kirsol.com> wrote: > On Sep 27, 5:35 pm, doug peterson <dougpn...@cox.net> wrote: > > > > > > > I've had my Grip Kings apart. They use loose balls. On the outboard > > end is an adjustment nut and locknut. The problem is the difficulty > > of getting the adjustment correct and holding it while tightening the > > locknut. There must be a special tool but Riv wasn't aware of > > anything. I got one set when they first came out and the left pedal > > kept loosening so Riv exchanged them. The second set went a year or > > so before the left developed a "click" and had some play. I popped > > off the plastic cap with a small screwdriver but it's not really meant > > to come off repeatedly. I dis-assembled everything, packed the > > bearings with Phil's grease, and re-assembled. Took quite a bit of > > fiddling to get the adjustment / locknut thing correct. Now, around > > 1,500 miles later the "click" is back. > > > Anyone know of a tool to hold the adjuster while tightening the > > locknut? It's done somehow at the factory and the pedal is quite > > simple mechanically. An improvement would be a threaded, metal end > > cap. > > Doug, my experience with bearing maintenance on the Grip Kings (as > well as MKS "sneaker" pedals) matches yours - about 1500 miles between > mandatory maintenance because of the "click!". It's a lovely pedal to > ride with mediocre bearing seals, it seems. I too use waterproof > grease (marine boat trailer grease). It's always the inboard side > where the grease has gotten contaminated and partially washed out. On > my to-do list is experimenting with seals, perhaps an o-ring. I'm sure > riding in the rain has something to do with the grease getting > contaminated. > > As for a special adjustment tool, I haven't found that necessary. What > I've done is mount the pedal on the crank after repacking the > bearings. I tighten the inner nut so that the bearings bind a bit. I > then tighten the outer nut to moderate tightness. Finally, I loosen > the inner nut a bit at a time (which is now getting harder to turn > because of the tightened outer nut) until I get the bearing adjustment > right. I'm using a socket wrench for these adjustments. It takes a bit > of patience. Having the pedal on the crank makes a nice vice and > leverage point for testing bearing play. When done, I pump more grease > on that side, clean the goop off the wrench sockets, and plug the dust > cap back in. I'd gladly pay a premium for a WTB-style greaseguard port > on Grip Kings.- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
