Cool, Angus.  Sprung saddle is essential, unless you have the stem
inserted nearly all the way.  Wider saddles work well - B66, etc.

I've done some harder, faster riding on my albatross bike, and I
usually wish I had drops in those instances.  That's how I felt this
weekend on the So Cal Riv ride.  I find that an upright bike puts my
quads to extra work.  But then I rolled to work today on the bike, in
my regular clothes, and the bars felt perfect.

Hope they work out!



On Mar 17, 6:28 am, Angus <angusle...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Thanks to "the bunch" for the advice.
>
> I've commuted to work twice with these bars and like them a lot.  I've
> tilted the bars a bit more and changed the saddle from a B-17 to a
> Flyer.  The springs help on a bumpy grass strip I ride through.
> Having the sprung saddle on the "upright bike" seems to work well.
>
> It does feel like I need a longer stem; I may have to have one made
> (I'm running a 12cm already).
>
> I shellaced the cork grips and now with wool gloves they are a bit
> slipery; they seem to do find with leather palmed gloves.
>
> Angus
>
> On Mar 9, 9:58 am, beth h <periwinkle...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > On Mar 8, 7:29 pm, Chris Halasz <chal...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > How *much* longer? Two cm? One?
>
> > When I switched from drops to the North Road bars I found that
> > swapping a stem that was 3cm longer really made a difference.
> > Beth
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