Here's a picture of the bike.  The brakes work MUCH better with all of
your advice.

http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y216/steelcommuter/?action=view&current=101_1619.jpg

Dave

On Feb 26, 3:17 pm, Tim McNamara <tim...@bitstream.net> wrote:
> On Feb 26, 2009, at 2:30 PM, Dave C wrote:
>
> > Tim, I think the poor braking is due to my inexperience at brake set-
> > up.  I never set up cable and housing before for this type of brake or
> > brake lever, and I'm not sure how to terminate the housing into the
> > lever body. I probably need to find a picture to determine the proper
> > method.
>
> I don't have any of these any more.  IIRC the cable housing is just  
> inserted into the guide hole in the lever body until it stops.  The  
> cable housing must be long enough to fully stop against both the  
> lever body and the cable stop (stop(s) for the rear brake, of  
> course).  If you pull the brakes and see the cable housing pulling  
> tighter somewhat in its run, that's a sign that the cable housing is  
> too short.
>
> Also, make sure you are using brake cable housing (coiled wire in the  
> sheathing) and not shifter cable housing (a bundle of longitudinal  
> wires in the sheathing).  Shifter cable housing will fail under the  
> forces of braking.  Don't ask how I know this.  Also make sure that  
> the brake cable housing ends are not crushed and dragging on the  
> cable- the ends must be fully open to allow the cable to slide  
> through easily.  Otherwise your hand force is overcoming the cable  
> friction and not braking.
>
> Given how important brakes are, it might be worthwhile taking your  
> bike to a good bike shop and having them set the brakes up and show  
> you how.
>
> > Last night, I adjusted the front brake by following the advice here,
> > increasing the cable tension by pulling more through the brake pinch
> > bolt.  I also adjusted the pads a bit.  It improved the braking, but
> > evidently I need to adjust some more because it is still weak.
>
> How much clearance to you have between the pads and the rims?  V-
> brakes run very close to the rims (about 1 mm away), unlike brakes  
> that require less cable pull.  You could have 3-4 mm with sidepulls  
> or cantis and have plenty of lever travel, but not so with V-brakes.
>
> BTW, I really don't like V-brakes for these reasons.  A well set up  
> canti stops just as well and is a lot less goofing around.  The only  
> bike I have with V-brakes is my tandem which has "shorty" V-brakes.
--~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW 
Owners Bunch" group.
To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en
-~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---

Reply via email to