While you can use software to fake it, it doesn't give you the same
quality as you would get from 3 separate images shot at different F Stops.
The biggest difference you will see when using a single image is that
the darker parts of your fake HDR image will be very grainy/noisy and
there will also be some noise that spills over to the rest of the image.
You can do a lot better if your single image is a RAW image with it's
higher bit-depth instead of it's JPEG equivalent, but even then, without
the longer exposure time that you would get from using a larger F-stop
the data simply isn't there is be able to expand for HDR (really
tonemaped) images.
Brian Cluff
On 01/11/2016 09:48 AM, Michael Havens wrote:
I was wondering... would using software to over/under expose an image
be the same as taking 3 images which have been physically altered?
Less wear and tear on the camera is good!
Also, I was watching a tutorial on luminance hdr and in his version
the software had a bunch of variation of an hdr which could be
modified. My version doesn't seem to have that. Is there a setting?
On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 9:58 PM, Brian Cluff <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Use LuminanceHDR for exposure blending. GIMP is waaaaaay too much
work to get just one way to blending the images. Luminance on the
other hard offers a tons of different methods and then you can
tweak the settings within each method. It's all very easy and
gives you much better results.
Brian Cluff
On 01/07/2016 05:51 PM, Michael Havens wrote:
thank you so much man. I really appreciate it. I certaainly
will devote
10% of my available brain to these videos tomorrow. Do you
know of any
videos or text teaching how to do exposure blending with
gimp2.8? all
the tuts I've been finding are incomplete or are how to do it
with 2.2!
On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 7:37 PM, Brian Cluff <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>
<mailto:[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>> wrote:
There's a ton of ways to do what you want. The biggest
thing you
will have to worry about is lighting. For instance, if
you are
putting something that was lit from the left into a scene
that was
lit from the right, then there is little you can do. No
matter how
carefully you add it to your scene your brain will always
tell you
there is something wrong with the picture.
I tend to use a couple of different techniques to put one
image into
another.
If the background is a relatively solid color, I'll use a
technique
similar to this example for cutting out images while
preserving fine
details (hair in this example)... hint, you don't use ANY
of the
selection tools, or copy and past.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnbxtMCHKV0
or
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jle81ofRLok
or
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quAChCnK_Dk
The other way I like combine image is brushing out the
background
using layer masks as demonstrated in this video with the leg:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHJAJziWDs0
I usually use a combination of the 2 techniques since you
rarely get
perfect results with either method.
All these methods ultimately use layer masks, which is a
much better
way to combine photos than cutting and pasting since you
can tweak
what is transparent or not back and both without having to
commit to
a certain part of an image like you do with cutting and
pasting.
Brian Cluff
On 01/07/2016 02:58 PM, Michael Havens wrote:
I found a way to super impose an image but it looks tacky.
The method I learned was to open both files and then
to select the
image you want to put on the other with fuzzytool. I
found that
didn't work so I used the path tool. Well I cut the
image out but
the paste doesn't look good. It is out of scale. For
the purposes
I need WHat ithe best way to cut a house out and put
it on a blue sky?
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