Just to let you know Chesa's adventurous journey to Africa... If you like to follow her, visit her blog on:
http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com 03 January 2010 South West of the Port of Pesto, Foccaccia and Bellin!<http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/south-west-of-port-of-pesto-foccaccia.html> South West from Port of Pesto, Foccaccia and 'Bellin' Arriving in Tangiers in about 3 hours. The trip on this not-so-much-a-joyride has been for me a new experience, though it's not the first time I took a ferry boat. I didn't mind the food. I didn't mind the odd sleeping positions. I didn't mind hearing the engines though I miss that beautiful sound of just water, wind and sail. I, of course, loved having 360° of blue, blue, blue. However, very differently from helming your own boat, crossing the Mediterranean for 2 days in community has only one issue which is being around people. I'm definitely not a hermit and am experiencing a bit of culture shock since I'm not used to bluntly be viewed as THE WOMAN. Human contact has always been for me the plus in my travels. I like to chat people up and talk about almost anything during trips. When you don't talk the same language, it's especially entertaining to actually arrive to monkey talk, using your whole body, to make people understand. However, on this boat I've actually encountered those who didn't even want to respond. Is it my sex? Or are they just extremely shy that they have to turn their heads away? I Indonesia is the country with the largest number of muslim population. Maybe I haven't traveled that much in my own country but I surely have never felt differentiated in this manner and my father and his family are muslims. Thankfully, the younger Moroccan generation are moderate in their beliefs.. Another unfortunate nuisance are the children who simply won't let me sleep in peace and their parents who do not know how to keep them muffled. In the meantime, we've met other young Italians from Bergamo also off for an adventure in Morocco. Red of course finds his group of motorcycle buffs and start chatting away about things I have no clue of. It's great to find young people enthusiastic about travels as much as we are. In our minds possible adventures in impossible vehicles of the future. The time of arrival has suffered delays due to current and winds. We need to find a garage that will change the busted tire of SH50 and head for Larache, a quaint seashore village on the Atlantic to stopover for the celebration of New Years.. Posted by Buleku at 12:53 AM<http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/south-west-of-port-of-pesto-foccaccia.html> <http://www.blogger.com/email-post.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=5084484536312348209> <http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=5084484536312348209> 03 January 2010 Day 1: Tangiers - Larache (try out)<http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/day-1-tangiers-larache.html> Arrived at Tangiers at 4.30pm and exited the port 2 hours later after a lot of waiting for the different parking lots of the ferry to empty, check at customs, paying insurance and this always with a flat back tire on the SH50 and under the rain. We managed to find a tire shop of in space of 2x2meter sq, paid 3 euros and parted in the dark for Larache about 85kms away. It was on the most part a road next to the Atlantic where during the trip we were also hit by 35 knot wind from the West with rain, sand sprays and backpacks on our backs... Should I remind you that I've only done a ride of 6 kms in center Milan up to now. It took us about 2 and half hours to arrive at Larache and by then I was freezing. We stayed at a Hotel Malaga which reminded me so much of my childhood in Subang with my grandmother and father. It was a particular New Years where Red and I cheered for 6 seconds for the change of the year over a glass of Coca Cola. Not that it was that important for me to celebrate but the absurdity of the situation was admirable. There was absolutely no one in the streets and the only party we heard at Restaurant Khay Ahmed, where they serve one of the best 'Pitititu' (Moroccan Satay) in the world, was from the television. I was just happy to have hot water in the Hotel.. Posted by Buleku at 1:36 AM<http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/day-1-tangiers-larache.html> <http://www.blogger.com/email-post.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=6211125189800190348> <http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=6211125189800190348> 7 comments: <http://www.blogger.com/profile/03038926112349327271> fcicchi <http://www.blogger.com/profile/03038926112349327271> said... Well done my friends! I'm jealous... Be careful, smile, say "Mandish flush" (Red knows what I mean) and all is going to be ok :P Take care! 03 January, 2010 10:39 <http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/day-1-tangiers-larache.html?showComment=1262511559944#c2352342520204308760> <http://www.blogger.com/delete-comment.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=2352342520204308760> donnatu said... Happy new year my love(s)! I was disappointed because this *...@ìà^+** site didn't work and I would like to know about you two. I will follow you every day so let's write and, come on baby, smile, you two are free 03 January, 2010 14:52 <http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/day-1-tangiers-larache.html?showComment=1262526748528#c6807569651550482109> <http://www.blogger.com/delete-comment.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=6807569651550482109> <http://www.blogger.com/profile/04801008681118274171> Rossana <http://www.blogger.com/profile/04801008681118274171> said... This post has been removed by the author. 03 January, 2010 22:45 <http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/day-1-tangiers-larache.html?showComment=1262555120427#c4313027504991967504> <http://www.blogger.com/delete-comment.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=4313027504991967504> <http://www.blogger.com/profile/04801008681118274171> Rossana <http://www.blogger.com/profile/04801008681118274171> said... Finally there are news from you....Red and Buleku, welcome in the new year, de hi ho ho :) Guys I hope you'll find soon the luckyness you both deserve for the rest of the trip!!! A big bless 03 January, 2010 22:46 <http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/day-1-tangiers-larache.html?showComment=1262555197654#c2493117635229174108> <http://www.blogger.com/delete-comment.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=2493117635229174108> <http://www.blogger.com/profile/14061791787245127051> Valeria <http://www.blogger.com/profile/14061791787245127051> said... All my best wishes for the trip and of course for the new year! keep us posted, we'll send you positive vibes! 05 January, 2010 23:17 <http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/day-1-tangiers-larache.html?showComment=1262729853101#c1065693251384112216> <http://www.blogger.com/delete-comment.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=1065693251384112216> Anonymous said... Happy New Year to the both of you!!! and seriously what else can go wrong..see? nothing so from now on it will be plain sailing!! I'm so amzed that you're driving in Africa after only a 6 km trip in Milan! Go Chesa!!!!! Baci Caitlin.xxx 06 January, 2010 16:33 <http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/day-1-tangiers-larache.html?showComment=1262792022587#c2926823634917601155> <http://www.blogger.com/delete-comment.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=2926823634917601155> <http://www.blogger.com/profile/08533413629022133363> fifi <http://www.blogger.com/profile/08533413629022133363> said... I think everyone were amazed of how crazy you are riding the scooter to Africa with only 6km experience in Milan. Please be safe, my best regards to Red. Your mom, who miss you so much... 09 January, 2010 14:39 <http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/day-1-tangiers-larache.html?showComment=1263044356358#c7995078355154379371> <http://www.blogger.com/delete-comment.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=7995078355154379371> 04 January 2010 Day 2: Larache - Fez (the foot issue)<http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/day-2-larache-fez.html> Larache is a small seaside village sprayed continuously by the tumultuous Atlantic wave breaks. You smelled salt in the air. The Medina is small but extremely typical. It was unfortunate that half of the stores were closed during this first day of the year. Walking towards the south of the city you find a market place that extends itself to a full block outside of this simple market building, relic of old Portuguese civilization. Banana 1 Dirham. Peanut key chain made in China 10 Dirham. 30 pieces of wooden cotton buds 2 Dirham. Odd comparisons.. After our morning walk with provisions of oil and spray repair kit, we gear up to leave. Backpacks this time not on our shoulders but attached to the packs of the 50ccs. We part... and then I fall down. I had no balance due to the loose backpacks. Rested for a while and spalmed Ketum (a type of Lasonil for sprains) and off we go towards Fez. Lunch at Souk er Arbe dou Rabh (Kampung deket Purwakarta) then for the rest of the journey the back wheel of the SH50 starts to make noises. The wheel was eating up the its bearings. Not a small matter considering that the back wheel can just break away at any give time.. We arrived close to 70 km of Fez, in the middle of nowhere, and the forsaken tire of yet again the same SH50 blows.... At that point, the first thought that came to mind was not 'Fuck me.' but 'Wow... this place is gorgeous'. We tried to fill the chamber with the emergency air filler but the tear was too big. Really at that point I was quite ready to call it a night and camp seeing as my foot was hurting quite a bit. Luckily, Rachid and Aziz on a white van saved us and took us to Fez where Red for the whole trip did serious gymnastics and I practiced my arab and french with black tooth Rachid and mumbling Aziz. It might be the romantic in me but I saw one of the most beautiful nights ever. The rising of the moon itself was more than worth the trip. I suppose there's the navigator in me that is always looking at the sky to understand my north and south. Rachid didn't really understand much and neither did Aziz. The only sure thing was that they were to take us to Fez and Allahamdulillah after that. Rachid however, insisted and I speak on the phone... HIS phone of course and on the other side of the conversation was his brother who lives in Milan, Italy. It was an odd conversation where none of us really understood why we were to speak to each other, apart from pleasing Rachid's wishes. His brother did manage to explain to Rachid that we needed a garage. :) After 2 hours we finally arrived at Fez and Rachid took us to a bike shop/garage. A little kid by the age of maybe 8/9 started to work on the tire with Red's supervision. By then I realize that I couldn't put my foot down any longer. To cut the story short. I went to the Hospital Ghassani at the border of Fez city, got an X-Ray, was diagnosed with fractures in 2 different spots on my left foot, got a soft cast and went away with a prescription to take for 7 days. Met Red in Splendid Hotel and off to bed... Posted by Buleku at 12:54 AM<http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/day-2-larache-fez.html> <http://www.blogger.com/email-post.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=6610563952284354025> <http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=6610563952284354025> 05 January 2010 Day 3-5: Fez-Rabat (Visa Trip)<http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/unforseens.html> Now just to be sure that no one gets worried.. We're alive! Left you all with only Larache because the days after has been quite intense.. After the foot injury, we did a walk trial around Fez for a day and though apprehensive at first we continued on the journey. It was a relaxing drive to the capital of Morocco with good asphalt roads a long the way and views of the mountains afar. A smooth drive apart from my fall while stopping to ask Red when to get gas. Stopover at Khemisset for yet another shish ke-bab lunch. A few kilometers before the city you have a wonderful downward ride of turnpikes while looking at the valley. The entry towards Rabat was tranquil but traffic reached a height that we understood immediately that the city center was closing in. There were odd 'temples' made out of red earth that decorated the highway for the city. No real explanation to the reason of the presence of these small structures apart from maybe people's past time art while waiting for a free ride to enter the city. Rabat center itself was chaotic. Thankfully we arrived early afternoon because to search good parking took us quite sometime. Indications were non existent. We found however a place to stay in center city. Not realizing that it was the spot for good snail broth snacking. Red hadn't seen that the entrance to the 'hotel' was also storage to the many soon to be cooked snails. At times in the room we get a scent of this so called delicacy. I'm not against snail eating but I generally like it cleaned first then dipped in good french garlic butter or holandaise... It took us the whole morning to get inside the Mauritanian Embassy door to ask for a visa and then a 2 hour wait from 8.30 pm to retrieve the passport: Treated like cattle and was amongst very beastly people but glad that it really took us only 1 day to get the visa and leave Rabat. Left Rabat on a rainy morning. We didn't have the luxury of a bath the day before and one morning prep after another made us leave the capital only at midday. It rained since morning and continued to rain until the afternoon. The ride to Casablanca was in a freeway filled with cars. And there after less than an hour ride the Aprilia started to choke.We went on a search for a garage and found it almost immediately after asking 2/3 tire and bike shops. The repair man was quite thrilled to see a motorbike with electronic injection. The bike had a spark plug that was burnt out and needed to be changed. Did so and arrived late in El Jadida because the fix lasted only for 1 hour. Posted by Buleku at 11:31 AM<http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/unforseens.html> <http://www.blogger.com/email-post.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=4135568264589543430> <http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=4135568264589543430> 4 comments: Anonymous said... Glad to hear you're both still alive! :D Chesa, how's your foot? Not too bad I hope. Take care ;) Luci 08 January, 2010 16:47 <http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/unforseens.html?showComment=1262965641072#c6284149340065764540> <http://www.blogger.com/delete-comment.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=6284149340065764540> Anonymous said... I LOVE your blog and am thoroughly enjoying living vicariously through you guys. I can't believe how much adversity you have overcome already. Buleku's posts have me rolling with laughter, especially about the mumbling guy and phone. Travel safe my friends. YVC (Your Vicarios Companion) 09 January, 2010 00:59 <http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/unforseens.html?showComment=1262995156720#c8143727687650773404> <http://www.blogger.com/delete-comment.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=8143727687650773404> <http://www.blogger.com/profile/04858724895988088913> L.H.A. <http://www.blogger.com/profile/04858724895988088913> said... Red, keep on doin', it won't be your best trip (after all these troubles), but at least this is your best adventure! ;) 09 January, 2010 01:02 <http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/unforseens.html?showComment=1262995353029#c1912192774328144944> <http://www.blogger.com/delete-comment.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=1912192774328144944> <http://www.blogger.com/profile/08533413629022133363> fifi <http://www.blogger.com/profile/08533413629022133363> said... At least I can sleep better tonight knowing that you all doing fine so far... Please keep safe mode on at all times...! Miss you so much... Your lonely mom... 09 January, 2010 14:30 <http://africaon50cc.blogspot.com/2010/01/unforseens.html?showComment=1263043827257#c6672451703024956300> <http://www.blogger.com/delete-comment.g?blogID=7553113081104067448&postID=6672451703024956300>
