Having survived (barely) seven w
WINTER ESCAPE TO SOUTH TEXAS 2009
Having survived (barely) seven weeks of cold, wet gloom and illness in
Seattle, we went rarity chasing in balmy South Texas in early January. We had
originally planned the trip for early April, but we switched to early January
in a delicious moment of spousal calendar agreement: she feared early April
might conflict with a sacred trip with the grandkids and I noticed that many
rarities were in Texas that week. Anyhow, I said “There are 9 life birds in
South Texas this week, let’s go NOW,” and got instant concurrence.
Leave your tired old Yankee prejudices behind when heading to South Texas.
Recognizing the value of birding tourism, Texas has done a superb job of
helping birders and also recovering habitat. They have the best birder
information service in the nation, Texas Rare Bird Alert (TXRBA) hosted at
www.narba.org . This is not just random e-mails but a listing of where the
interesting birds are by species, updated 4 times a day. The only thing
lacking is more visiting birders returning the favor and sending more updates.
They also have created the World Birding Center – 7 great sites
www.worldbirdingcenter.org, beautifully detailed Birding Trail maps, and even a
wonderful new State park for birders, Estero Llano Grande. Texas is the new
standard in best practice for helping birders: visit and learn.
In any case, they have lots to work with: dozens of gorgeous tropical
birds, and a network of National Wildlife Refuges and State Parks stretching
for 200 miles along the Rio Grande between Laredo and South Padre island. It’s
way too big to see in just one week or from just one location.
Texas has winter rarities (e.g. Blue Bunting, Crimson-collared Grosbeak, &
Clay-colored Thrush), summer rarities ( e.g Yellow-green Vireo) and year around
rarities. We were concentrating on the winter rarities and the White-collared
Seedeater, Masked Duck, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, Tropical Parula, Muscovy Duck
and Red-billed Pigeon that we missed on past trips. We had cheap tickets to
San Antonio from Tucson and then rented a car. This required overnights in San
Antonio, which has a downtown Riverwalk, which we love. From there we drove to
Laredo starting on the west end of the Lower Rio Grande Valley, driving all the
way to McAllen and then, because we missed a few birds, coming back the same
way. We would have seen more species circling back via Padre Island and Corpus
Christi, but were concentrating on our target list.
.
January 11
Flew to San Antonio and stayed at nice Drury Suites on the Riverwalk but ate at
Zuni, an overpriced seafood place.
Mon. January 12
Drove to Zapata & found White-collared Seedeater behind the library. We helped
two beginners get on these hard to find birds. They like brush but are quiet.
I spotted the male’s distinct wing-bars near the pond and then we tracked it to
the fence south of the library where the female joined the male in perfect
scope views. We then stopped at Salineno and saw late Audubon’s Orioles, Green
& Ringed Kingfishers and a resident Eastern Screech Owl, but no luck with late
Muscovy or Red-billed Pigeon. The pigeons fly overhead from Mexico to our side
near sunset, but the light angle makes viewing and ID nearly impossible. I’m
sure a big $$$ guide would have called them for client ticks, but I wanted to
really see the birds. There is no decent place to stay nearby between Rio
Grande City and Zapata. We stayed at the Best Western in RG City, but that
turned out to be too far for an easy return.
Tues. January 13
Drove back to try for early Red-billed Pigeons at Salineno. No luck & long
drive in heavy traffic. Then tried Falcon State park, which was flooded but
full of Pipits, Pyrrhuloxia & Scaled Quail. Then drove to Bensen SP for Blue
Bunting but no luck. Did see Clay-colored Thrush at the Visitor Center. This
is a spectaclar park where habitat has been reclaimed from a huge camping
ground. I’m one of many birders who stayed there, loved the campground, and
hated to lose it, but I have to admit that the habitat is now better for the
birds. We then drove to Frontera Audubon but got lost driving from Frontera to
Santa Ana B&B. This is a lovely spot, next to Santa Ana refuge, the only thing
it lacks is good Internet connections. www.casasantaana.com
Ate at a hokie local BBQ
Wed January 14
Drove to lovely new Estero Llano Grande SP. Great guided walk by former
Quetico Superintendent. Buff-bellied hummer sunning itself by feeders, pond
lousy with 15+ Least Grebes & Green Kingfisher in the pond. Hike excellent,
Paraques seen from trail roosting on the ground a few feet away. Obs. deck
had Little Blue heron, imm & adult together plus Snowy. Fulvous Whistling
ducks in the slough. Rose –throated Becard & Magpie Jay did not show. Stayed
at B&B again
Thur. January 15
Tried Frontera again & saw the Blue Bunting female, but missed the Grosbeak.
Then drove to see the Ferruginous Pygmy Owl at San Miguelito Ranch with
Leticia Tijerina [email protected] and two photo fanatics. You need real 4 wheel
drive to get in here. The bird did not cooperate at first. We waited and
waited for hours until we heard it hooting off in the woods. It turned out the
little bugger was sitting behind us in a hole at the base of a crotch in a tree
that was shaped like a perfect speaker. He rewarded out patience by hopping
out on a branch and doing perfect poses for an hour. Also saw a Sedge Wren
here. Stayed at nearby La Quinta Suites and ate at Leticia’s brother’s
restaurant.
Fri. January 16
Finally success with the Frontera Crimson-collared Grosbeak. It was showing
itself in the drizzle and we ran in to see it at 10 a.m. The area was full of
Clay-colored Thrushes and Warblers. We then drove to Quinta Mazatlan a lovely
spot with great feeders but no hoped for Tropical Paraulas. Finally we drove
to Chapeno for our last chance at Red-billed Pigeon. Lovely spot with lovely
Ringed Kingfisher. We were planning to wait for the Red-billed Pigeon flight,
but the Coyotes landed a boatload of illegals at our feet and we ran the blazes
out of there. We stayed at the Zapata Holiday Inn Express with mobs of
fishermen there for a fishing contest. Avoid this place on weekends.
Sat. Jan. 17
We tried San Ignacio but the bird area was flooded. Finally we drove to San
Antonio for an excellent celebration dinner at Landry’s.
Jan 18
Easy flight home from San Antonio except for racing between gates in Dallas.
Richard Carlson
Still From Minnesota, just Temporarily Absent since 1960
Full-time Birder, Biker and Rotarian
Part-time Economist
Tucson, AZ, Lake Tahoe, CA, & Kirkland, WA
[email protected]
Tucson 520-760-4935
Tahoe 530-581-0624
Kirkland 425-828-3819
Cell 650-280-2965
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